My Car Comes with the Bose stereo, how can I add to/upgrade it?
OK I'll briefly describe the way the Bose stereo works, then talk about upgrading. The headunit is simply a transport unit with no amplification built in. The FM tuner section is a Diversity reception system, where 2 antennas are used and depending on which provides the better reception, the headunit will switch. One of the antennas is obvious, where as the other is impregnated in the back glass above the defroster lines.
The headunit sends balanced line signals to 4 seperate audio amplifiers, next to each of the speakers. The speaker size is 6 1/2S (oversize), or 6 3/4", at all 4 speakers. The tweeter in the front door is merely run in parallel off the midrange driver with a capacitor added as a simple crossover.
What is a balanced line signal? For those of you who don't know high end or professional audio, a good description from
http://www.jblpro.com/pages/system_faq.htm says
"A balanced line is a shielded, three-conductor system in which the two signal wires carry identical signals of opposite polarity. The third conductor (a braided or foil sheath around the two signal wires) acts only as a shield and does not carry an audio signal. Both signal wires will pick up any external electrical noise that gets past the shield. The receiving input will invert the polarity of one of the signals and combine it with the other. When the inverted noise is added to the non-inverted noise it is canceled. This is known as "common mode rejection". Note that both the output of the sending equipment and the input of the receiving equipment must be balanced in order for the line connecting them to be considered balanced.
An unbalanced line is a two-wire system in which both the shield (ground wire) and the center conductor carry the audio signal. Unbalanced inputs and outputs are typically found in guitar amplification, effects processors and hi-fi and home theater systems. Unbalanced systems will perform acceptably as long as cable length is kept relatively short, the system is not subject to excessive RF noise, and the AC ground of the various system components is at the same potential. "
The design used in the bose system is not shielded, however. The Bose system uses active equalization. The speakers are 1 ohm impedence, much less then the typical 4 ohms of most car speakers.
So, the questions frequently asked are:
1) I want to keep the headunit, but upgrade the speakers, is this possible?
Yes, it is possible. However, you will want to use your own amplification instead of the Bose headunit. The Bose amps are built to drive 1 ohm speakers, not 4 ohm, so you will hardly hear anything at all. Also, the Bose system uses active equalization, so those settings will not be appropriate for other speakers.
~can I add my own amps and speakers to the Bose headunit then?
Yes, infact this is how my system was setup before I completely changed it out. You must get an amp or an EQ unit that can tolerate balanced input signals. I used 2 AudioControl EQX EQ/crossover units (
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...diocontrol.com). The Bose system runs 5 volts DC on its balanced line signals and can be accepted by the Audiocontrol. After the AudioControl units, you can pretty much run whatever you please. However- the signal that comes out of the Bose headunit is not flat, so you will have to do some EQing to compensate.
The remote power-on lead can be tapped from one of the rear speakers that the Bose amp is powered by. There are 4 wires that go to the amp. 2 are signal (look for 5 volts DC), one is ground and 1 is switched 12 volts (when the Bose headunit is on- perfect as an aftermarket amp turn on lead).
(I will add wire colors when I find them out, but you can test for them very easily with a multimeter)
2) I'm happy with the Bose system, but just want to add a sub. Is this possible?
Yes, you have to make sure you have a sub amp (or converter) that can take speaker level inputs. Tap the amp into the rear speakers between the speaker and the amp. However, once again you'll be getting the "after Equalization" sound, so the signal will not be accurate.
3) I want to replace the headunit, but keep the speakers.
In the Bose system, you should not run the Bose speakers off of a aftermarket headunit because the impedence of the speakers are far too low and cause problems. Also, your new headunit/amp will not have the active equalization the Bose had, so it will not sound accurate either. You cannot interface an aftermarket headunit with the Bose's amplifiers either, unless you get something like a SoundGate adapter.
But as for replacing the headunit, its a Double DIN headunit. Any headunit that fits the ISO DIN can fit. You can also fit an ISO DIN headunit in the fold down pocket space. To make the antenna connection, you must by a "nissan diversity adapter". I got mine from Circuit City for about $10. I do not know if an aftermarket harness adapter is available, but I chose not to use one. You will have to run new wires for the speakers anyway. So you will only have to tap the constant 12 volt, switched 12 volt, power antenna trigger, illumination and find a ground (I will post wire colors as soon as I find them).
4) What speakers fit in the stock locations?
I replaced my fronts with MB Quart tweeters and Peerless midbass drivers. The midbass drivers were so large, I had to modify the backings of the speaker pods in the door by cutting them out. After you cut the pods out, depth is really not an issue. The tweeters I had to enlarge the stock holes to flush mount new tweeters.
4) I want to replace the entire system.
Read the above posts on replacing the headunit and the speakers.
So in short, if you are going to upgrade one piece of the Bose system, it is easier just to upgrade the entire system. While there are integration devices available such as the SoundGate, I choose to avoid the hassle and replaced the entire system.
My bass hits so hard my rear view mirror falls down...
If you're running a high powered bass system, you may experience the rear view mirror vibrating and then dropping down to the bass. What I did was cut a piece of rubber hosing thats probably 1 1/4" in length and wedge it between the windshield itself and the mirror's supporting rod. Now I can blast the stereo as loud as I possibily want and the mirror stays in place.
1996-1999 Nissan Maxima Security Information
This is the full wire diagram for Maxima everything you need to wire in a alarm
Constant 12V+ White/Red or White/Purple Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Yellow or Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/White or Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Starter 2 Wire Red/Yellow or Red Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Blue or White/Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Tach White/Green ECM, Front of Center Console
Neutral Safety Wire Green/Orange Switch on Driver's Side
Brake Switch Red/Green Brake Switch
Trunk Release Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel
Trunk Pin Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick or BCM below Radio
Parking Lights Red/Green (+) Steering Column Harness
Head Lamp Blue/Black R And Gray/Yellow L at Steering Column
Hood Pin Yellow/Black (-) BCM below Radio
Factory Disarm Green/Yellow (-) Double Pulse Will Unlock Doors
Door Trigger Red/White (-) Low in Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock Light Green/Red(-) Driver's Door
Door Unlock Green/Yellow (-) Double Pulse Unlock
Driver's Lock Brown/White In Driver's Door
Driver's Unlock Brown In Driver's Door
Passenger Unlock Brown In Driver's Door
Horn Wire Green/White (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Blue/RedData Link Switch, Must go to each Switch in each Door
Windows Down LF=Blue/Black
I've bought new keyless entry remotes for my car, how do I program them?
Replacing Remote Controller or Multi-Remote Control Unit (LCU05)
Enter the identity (ID) code manually when:
-remote controller or multi-remote control unit LCU05 is replaced.
-an additional remote controller is activated.
ID Code Entry Procedure
To enter the ID code, follow this procedure.
Entering "Setting mode":
(1) Close and lock all doors.
(2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.) At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.
ID code entry:
(3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
(4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.)
Additional ID code entry
(5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock knob.
(6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once.
(7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened.
NOTE
If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller.
If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.
Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.
Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.
Linkage:
http://home.earthlink.net/~maxfaq/ma...nce.htm#Remote
Credit: Spritemax
ALSO:
Couldn't find this anywhere and thought it might be handy to post.
To program the remote(s) follow this procedure
1. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.
2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and the original codes will be cleared.
3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.
4. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time, the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice.
For additional remotes continue below else go to step 9
5. If you need to activate additional remote controllers, manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock knob.
6. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.
7. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and additional remote is programmed.
8. For additional remotes, go back to step 5.
9. Open driver's door to exit programming state when done.
NOTE: Only a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.
Credit: Igobuk
How do I install a 7" screen in my 4th gen?
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...24&postcount=1
Credit: Redmax
How to install an I30 auto dimming mirror: I30 Autodimming Mirror Installation Writeup