INTERIOR Information- Don't Post Questions Here! (UPDATED)

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10-24-2001, 07:54 AM

phenryiv1

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INTERIOR Information- Don't Post Questions Here! (UPDATED)

Last edited by Kevlo911; 06-23-2009 at 09:45 AM.

07-31-2002, 10:58 PM

phenryiv1

Mod her. Ate her.

Thread Starter

iTrader: (19)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: Martinsburg, WV

Posts: 9,827

My mom's Toyota Camry has rear seat head rests, how can I get some?

If you take the top 1/2 of the rear seat from an Infiniti I30, you can have the rear seat headrests. If you have leather seats already, you are inluck as the Infiniti seat only comes in leather. Do not get the I30T seats, cause they have perferated leather. If you have cloth seats, it will look funny with cloth in the front and leather for 1/2 the rear seat. I was quoted around a price for $200 for a I30 back seat from a junkyard.

How do I disassemble / rebuild my sticky sunroof?

Sunroof surgery...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=98029

Credit: Deezo

What does the "O/D off" button do?

For some reason the function of the "O/D OFF" button on the shifter of
automatic equipped 4th gen Maximas is always the subject of heated debate.

The button functions exactly as it is labeled. The button disables 4th gear in the transmission. This is it's only function. It has no effect on engine output. It has no effect on transmission shift firmness. It has no effect on transmission shift points.

Well, if it doesn't do any of that, why is it there?

Good question.

One instance where turning overdrive off can help is heavy traffic. If you are in "stop-and-go" traffic, and not exceeding about 50mph, switching O/D off may help driveability. Locking out 4th gear reduces hunting and shifting in traffic. This makes it easier to drive smoothly.

Another instance is when driving at very high speeds. When left alone, the transmission will shift from 3rd to 4th gear at about 6000 RPM at WOT. This is about 122 MPH. When this happens, the engine drops down too low in it's power band to continue accelerating very well. This is why people complain about not being able to exceed about 125 MPH. If O/D is switched off and the car redlines in 3rd gear, it reaches 130 MPH. Switching O/D on at this point will put the engine into 4th gear at a more powerful RPM. This will allow the car to continue accelerating to the 140 MPH range.

Holding Pen...

Need to know how to get the dash and doors apart for stereo installation?

This site is very helpful:
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax0.htm

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomandre

The instructions on this site are good for removing the stereo. However, their response to an apparently common problem of too-tight screws is to send the whole unit to them. That doesnt help those of us who aren't sending units to them for repair.

After stripping one screw, and then spending a good hour or so taking a trip to the hardware store for a screw extractor, drilling the screw and removing it, I came up with a solution to getting the screws out without stripping and all the headache of drilling them out.

I took a phillips-head "bit" from a power screw driver and used it in my socket wrench. I put pressure on the wrench with my right palm while using the left to turn the wrench. All that helped keep the bit seated in the screw, and the wrench gave me a lot more torque than a screwdriver. All the other screws came out quite easily.

NOTE: This site used to be free, but now charges to view the instructions. If anyone has other links, please PM me. -phenryiv1

How do I paint my dash?

You will need:
*Spray cans of-
White, Sandable Primer
Krylon mEtallic Silver Paint
Krylon Gloss clear coat
*600 grit sandpaper

1. Remove the pieces you want to paint (Duh)

2. Wash them thoroughly with dish soap and rinse them a lot. Then let them dry totally.

3. Use the sandpaper to smooth any rough spots that may be on the parts.

4. Spray with 2 coats of the white, sandable primer, letting it dry completely between coats.

5. Sand any rough patches in the primer.

6. Apply at least 3 coats of silver paint, drying between coats. Sand any rough patches as needed between coats.

7. Carefully apply 2 coats of the clear gloss, again, letting it dry between coats. Dont try to sand the gloss coat, it doesnt work very well.

I've had my dash painted for over 2 years now and I only have one scratch, but that could have been avoided. This setup is strong and wont scratch, chip or fade during normal use.

Where can I get new seat covers for my Maxima?

www.leatherseats.com makes very high quality leather covers

www.katzkin.com also makes nice leather covers

www.wetokole.com makes waterproof neoprene interiors

www.great-covers.bigstep.com sells OEM-style cloth and imitation leather interiors

Have fun

What Kind of Bulb does the Gauge Cluster Use?

95-97 Use 194 ( I have changed mine and i have a 97)
98-99 Use 74

How to Change these bulbs; click the 4th gen how to.

Where can I find a hole in my firewall?

Remove the wheel well liner of the left-front wheel. You will see a very large grommet with a large wiring harness running into the passenger compartment. This is the perfect place to run a wire into the car and along the left side of the car.

Can I swap White SE gauge faces into my GLE or GXE?

There have been lots of questions lately about this mod, so here are the facts as they pertain to 95-97. I am sure that they are the same for the 98-99.5, but my actual swap was in a 96. Also, these will work with an I30 or I30t, so long as you use a donor gauge set with the same odometer type (analog or digital, respectively).

How does this go?

There have been issues and questions raised regarding the feasibility of a face-swap (between compatible years) so that odometer readings can remain true and accurate.

Somewhere in this thread it was asked (by me) about whether or not the faces can be switched or whether the whole gauge must be transferred.

It was answered as to the 97-99.5 Maximas, but I can tell you without question that this CAN be done on the 95-96 versions as well. Because I have an auto and the donor cluster was a manual, I chose to keep my existing cluster.
NOTE: the issue here is regarding the loss of the "O/D OFF" light that the Manual gauge cluster does not have.

What are my choices on how to do this swap and how extensive my efforts should be?

If you want OEM SE faces, buy an OEM SE cluster. Now we all know about legality and odometer/ mileage problems. You have 3 choices:

1. You can switch the whole assembly and get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Can lower resale value because an odometer adjustment statement will be attached to the title.

2. You can switch the whole assembly and NOT get an odometer adjustment statement. Pros- EASY. Cons- Illegal. If the mileage is LOWER, it is definitely illegal; if it is higher it is not illegal UNLESS you go back to the original cluster to sell the car. If you change the mileage on a car to a lower amount, it is odometer fraud, unless you get the aforementioned odometer disclosure statement.

3. (What I did) Switch the fuel gauge, temp gauge, and tachometer. Actually, you REUSE only the Speedo- everything else is from the new gauge cluster.
Take the odo/speedo gauge and remove it from the GLE/GXE cluster. You will be reusing the base from your GLE/GXE. Remove the needle and the face. Take the needle and the face off of the SE. CAREFULLY drill out the 2 screw holes that the GLE has but the SE lacks (see below and PM/email me for more info about this). Put the SE face on your old GLE/GXE gauge base. Reuse the SE needle. This will have your original odometer in your car, thus making it 100% legal.

So on to my actual swap:

The donor was a fellow .org member, and he sent me the FULL gauges for tach, temp, and fuel (faces AND electronics), and for the speedo he sent only the face and the needle rest. He broke the needle doing the removal of the face, so I had to ask around. JDM4LIFE was cool enough to send me an SE needle to go on the face of the white SE gauge (my white GLE needle would not have shown up). My temp, tach, and fuel gauges have white/black needles, and the speedo has orange. Oddly enough, I LIKE this, b/c it makes the speedo easier to see at a glance. If I was a racer or had a manual, I would want this needle on the tach, but I have an auto so it works best on he speedo.

I swapped the WHOLE gauge (face and electronics) into my cluster base for the temp/tach/fuel (3 easy screws each), and did a face swap on the speedo/odo cluster. 2 extra screws, plus the needle swap, and it was done. Like the link above says, I had trouble with the needle sticking, but it was resolved. Read this thread to see problems encountered when the needles stuck after the gauge face swap.

While the gauges were out I switched the dash illumination bulbs (5 total) from white to red. These look great, are super deep, and light up just bright enough. Even if I was not doing the face-swap, these bulbs would have been worth the time. I wanted blue, but have used blue 194s before and cannot find ones that do not fade over time. After the mixed reviews on 194-based LEDs (1 or 4 LED versions), I have decided to stick w/ the reds. I actually looked for VW OEM blurple/indigo bulbs, but they are not sold to the public (they are soldered to the dash cluster).

Pics of the new light bulbs are on my CarDomain homepage.

Is cutting my stock shifter similar to installing a short throw shifter (STS)?

Yes:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?postid=2643758
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=255355

Another good thread, which offers an explanation of why cutting is good- but not as good as a true STS:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=388243

How to CUT the stock shifter:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=394142

I have to hold my sunroof button for it to open, is there a way to make it 1 touch?

Yes, Autoloc sells a product for this. Although it is for the power window, it can work perfectly well with the sunroof. Installation is extremely easy as well. The product is $40 US, called the WC1000 and it will allow for one touch open and close of the sunroof.

www.autoloc.com

Can I install a 5(.5) gen gauge cluster in a 4th gen?

Possible. Here's the link on how-to do so

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=302653

My air conditioner smells like crap. Why?

Its mold growing on the AC parts inside the car after it gets all damp from the A/C. The solution is very easy. Get a can of lysol. Drop all your windows and sunroof. Turn the AC on "outside air". Turn the fan to "high". Empty the can thru the cowl intake (under the wipers). Get in the car and change the fan position settings thru all- defrost, high, low and bilevel. Next, take trip down interstate at high speed with heater on to help speed the smells like a hospital smell from vehicle. Problem solved.

Can I change my manual HVAC to automatic Climate Control?

Possibly, but probably not worth it.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=32647

Credit: clee130

Can I install 350z seats in my 4th gen?

Yes.

Can I install 350z seats? Yes:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=335349 credit: bct1192

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=218097 credit: bhunter

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/422689/3 bhunter pics

Credit: D-Bo

Interior swap info thread (including 2002 Altima Steering wheel swap info:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....06#post3639180

Is there a way to make my rear seat fold down?

No. But there IS a way to make it fold UP...

Back seat fold-up mod.

It is a mod to allow your rear seat to fold up (folding down will not work) to allow for transporting large items.

Here is a direct link to the write-up hosted on vqpower.com.

Original thread from 3 years ago.

New(er) thread.

Credit: ptatohed

ptatohed's "Interior Decorating" thread: (good info)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=339384

Also, includes info on shortening the auto shifter and making it look like a fake-out manual shifter.

those 5th gen seats look nice im doin that but 2 tone

I hate my 95-96 Maxima (and 96-97 I30) cupholders. What can I do?

You CAN swap in the cupholders from a 97-99.5 Maxima. It is a very simple process. You can even retain your 95-96 change holders, or keep the holes for the seat heater switches, if so equipped.

Link to the thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=console+swap

Last edited by phenryiv1; 01-11-2008 at 06:25 AM.

03-07-2007, 07:01 AM

phenryiv1

Mod her. Ate her.

Thread Starter

iTrader: (19)

Join Date: May 2002

Location: Martinsburg, WV

Posts: 9,827

My Car Comes with the Bose stereo, how can I add to/upgrade it?

OK I'll briefly describe the way the Bose stereo works, then talk about upgrading. The headunit is simply a transport unit with no amplification built in. The FM tuner section is a Diversity reception system, where 2 antennas are used and depending on which provides the better reception, the headunit will switch. One of the antennas is obvious, where as the other is impregnated in the back glass above the defroster lines.

The headunit sends balanced line signals to 4 seperate audio amplifiers, next to each of the speakers. The speaker size is 6 1/2S (oversize), or 6 3/4", at all 4 speakers. The tweeter in the front door is merely run in parallel off the midrange driver with a capacitor added as a simple crossover.

What is a balanced line signal? For those of you who don't know high end or professional audio, a good description from http://www.jblpro.com/pages/system_faq.htm says

"A balanced line is a shielded, three-conductor system in which the two signal wires carry identical signals of opposite polarity. The third conductor (a braided or foil sheath around the two signal wires) acts only as a shield and does not carry an audio signal. Both signal wires will pick up any external electrical noise that gets past the shield. The receiving input will invert the polarity of one of the signals and combine it with the other. When the inverted noise is added to the non-inverted noise it is canceled. This is known as "common mode rejection". Note that both the output of the sending equipment and the input of the receiving equipment must be balanced in order for the line connecting them to be considered balanced.
An unbalanced line is a two-wire system in which both the shield (ground wire) and the center conductor carry the audio signal. Unbalanced inputs and outputs are typically found in guitar amplification, effects processors and hi-fi and home theater systems. Unbalanced systems will perform acceptably as long as cable length is kept relatively short, the system is not subject to excessive RF noise, and the AC ground of the various system components is at the same potential. "

The design used in the bose system is not shielded, however. The Bose system uses active equalization. The speakers are 1 ohm impedence, much less then the typical 4 ohms of most car speakers.

So, the questions frequently asked are:
1) I want to keep the headunit, but upgrade the speakers, is this possible?

Yes, it is possible. However, you will want to use your own amplification instead of the Bose headunit. The Bose amps are built to drive 1 ohm speakers, not 4 ohm, so you will hardly hear anything at all. Also, the Bose system uses active equalization, so those settings will not be appropriate for other speakers.

~can I add my own amps and speakers to the Bose headunit then?

Yes, infact this is how my system was setup before I completely changed it out. You must get an amp or an EQ unit that can tolerate balanced input signals. I used 2 AudioControl EQX EQ/crossover units (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...diocontrol.com). The Bose system runs 5 volts DC on its balanced line signals and can be accepted by the Audiocontrol. After the AudioControl units, you can pretty much run whatever you please. However- the signal that comes out of the Bose headunit is not flat, so you will have to do some EQing to compensate.

The remote power-on lead can be tapped from one of the rear speakers that the Bose amp is powered by. There are 4 wires that go to the amp. 2 are signal (look for 5 volts DC), one is ground and 1 is switched 12 volts (when the Bose headunit is on- perfect as an aftermarket amp turn on lead).
(I will add wire colors when I find them out, but you can test for them very easily with a multimeter)

2) I'm happy with the Bose system, but just want to add a sub. Is this possible?

Yes, you have to make sure you have a sub amp (or converter) that can take speaker level inputs. Tap the amp into the rear speakers between the speaker and the amp. However, once again you'll be getting the "after Equalization" sound, so the signal will not be accurate.

3) I want to replace the headunit, but keep the speakers.

In the Bose system, you should not run the Bose speakers off of a aftermarket headunit because the impedence of the speakers are far too low and cause problems. Also, your new headunit/amp will not have the active equalization the Bose had, so it will not sound accurate either. You cannot interface an aftermarket headunit with the Bose's amplifiers either, unless you get something like a SoundGate adapter.

But as for replacing the headunit, its a Double DIN headunit. Any headunit that fits the ISO DIN can fit. You can also fit an ISO DIN headunit in the fold down pocket space. To make the antenna connection, you must by a "nissan diversity adapter". I got mine from Circuit City for about $10. I do not know if an aftermarket harness adapter is available, but I chose not to use one. You will have to run new wires for the speakers anyway. So you will only have to tap the constant 12 volt, switched 12 volt, power antenna trigger, illumination and find a ground (I will post wire colors as soon as I find them).

4) What speakers fit in the stock locations?

I replaced my fronts with MB Quart tweeters and Peerless midbass drivers. The midbass drivers were so large, I had to modify the backings of the speaker pods in the door by cutting them out. After you cut the pods out, depth is really not an issue. The tweeters I had to enlarge the stock holes to flush mount new tweeters.

4) I want to replace the entire system.

Read the above posts on replacing the headunit and the speakers.

So in short, if you are going to upgrade one piece of the Bose system, it is easier just to upgrade the entire system. While there are integration devices available such as the SoundGate, I choose to avoid the hassle and replaced the entire system.

My bass hits so hard my rear view mirror falls down...

If you're running a high powered bass system, you may experience the rear view mirror vibrating and then dropping down to the bass. What I did was cut a piece of rubber hosing thats probably 1 1/4" in length and wedge it between the windshield itself and the mirror's supporting rod. Now I can blast the stereo as loud as I possibily want and the mirror stays in place.

1996-1999 Nissan Maxima Security Information

This is the full wire diagram for Maxima everything you need to wire in a alarm

Constant 12V+ White/Red or White/Purple Ignition Switch Harness

Starter Black/Yellow or Black/White Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition Black/White or Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness

Ignition 2 Starter 2 Wire Red/Yellow or Red Ignition Switch Harness

Accessory Blue or White/Blue Ignition Switch Harness

Tach White/Green ECM, Front of Center Console

Neutral Safety Wire Green/Orange Switch on Driver's Side

Brake Switch Red/Green Brake Switch

Trunk Release Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick Panel

Trunk Pin Purple/Yellow (-) Driver's Kick or BCM below Radio

Parking Lights Red/Green (+) Steering Column Harness

Head Lamp Blue/Black R And Gray/Yellow L at Steering Column

Hood Pin Yellow/Black (-) BCM below Radio

Factory Disarm Green/Yellow (-) Double Pulse Will Unlock Doors

Door Trigger Red/White (-) Low in Driver's Kick Panel

Door Lock Light Green/Red(-) Driver's Door

Door Unlock Green/Yellow (-) Double Pulse Unlock

Driver's Lock Brown/White In Driver's Door

Driver's Unlock Brown In Driver's Door

Passenger Unlock Brown In Driver's Door

Horn Wire Green/White (-) Steering Column

Windows Up LF=Blue/RedData Link Switch, Must go to each Switch in each Door

Windows Down LF=Blue/Black

I've bought new keyless entry remotes for my car, how do I program them?

Replacing Remote Controller or Multi-Remote Control Unit (LCU05)

Enter the identity (ID) code manually when:

-remote controller or multi-remote control unit LCU05 is replaced.
-an additional remote controller is activated.

ID Code Entry Procedure

To enter the ID code, follow this procedure.

Entering "Setting mode":
(1) Close and lock all doors.

(2) Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than six times within 10 seconds. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.) At this time, the original ID codes are eliminated.

ID code entry:
(3) Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

(4) Push lock button on the new remote controller once (for example, if door is locked using the remote controller during this ID code entry enable state, a new ID code can be entered). At this time, the new ID code is entered. (The hazard warning lamp will then flash twice.)

Additional ID code entry
(5) If you need to activate additional remote controllers, unlock the driver's door, then lock again with door lock ****.

(6) Push lock button on the additional new remote controller once.

(7) This ID code entry enable state and setting mode remain until the driver's door is opened.

NOTE
If you need to activate more than two additional new remote controllers, repeat the procedure "Additional ID code entry" for each new remote controller.
If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the hazard warning lamps will flash twice but the entry will be ignored.
Entry of maximum four ID codes is allowed and any attempt to enter more will be ignored.
Any ID codes entered after termination of the "setting mode" will not be accepted. Additionally remote control signals will be inhibited when an ID code has not been entered during the "setting" mode.

Linkage: http://home.earthlink.net/~maxfaq/ma...nce.htm#Remote

Credit: Spritemax

ALSO:

Couldn't find this anywhere and thought it might be handy to post.

To program the remote(s) follow this procedure

1. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

2. Insert and remove the key from the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and the original codes will be cleared.

3. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

4. Push the "Lock" button on the new remote controller once. At this time, the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice.

For additional remotes continue below else go to step 9

5. If you need to activate additional remote controllers, manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock ****.

6. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

7. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and additional remote is programmed.

8. For additional remotes, go back to step 5.

9. Open driver's door to exit programming state when done.

NOTE: Only a maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

Credit: Igobuk

How do I install a 7" screen in my 4th gen?

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...24&postcount=1

Credit: Redmax

How to install an I30 auto dimming mirror: I30 Autodimming Mirror Installation Writeup

Last edited by phenryiv1; 03-23-2009 at 08:03 AM.