HANDLING (SUSPENSION & BRAKES) Information- (UPDATED)

[phenryiv1]

I want to make a comprehensive sticky about suspension install and the parts (OTHER THAN THE SPRINGS AND STRUTS THEMSELVES) needed to replace your suspension.

I need help finding threads and or posts with good information. PLEASE post here with links or quotes with information that should be incorporated.

LINK to 4th Gen How-To Summary!

LINK to OFFICIAL 4th Gen Drop Pics Thread!

_______________________

Brakes

How to break in brakes http://zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

How to Change Front Brakes http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

How to Fix Parking Brake http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/303

How to Paint Your Calipers http://www.fourthrock.com/maxima/caliperpainting/

How to Install Stainless Steel Brakelines http://www.maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_m...es/index.shtml

How to Add Speed Bleeders http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/SpeedBleeders.htm

Handling

How to install Koni adjustable struts http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/koni.html

How to Change Shocks
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/shocks.html

How to Remove/Replace Your Front Wheel Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/704

How to Fix Your Front Strut Bearing
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703

How to Install Front and Rear Strut Bars http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/articles/readarticle.php?article_id=102

How to Install Koni Front Inserts http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=34

How to Install ADDCO RSB http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=35

How to Measure Your Tires http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/900

How to Change Shocks And Struts http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/articles/readarticle.php?article_id=64

How to make a rear strut bar brace Would you like a rear strut bar?

Coilover info:
Official Coilover Thread! For everyones benefit!
Building GOOD coilovers on a budget

Spring Rates Info

Please go to manufacturer sites and get the spring rates and drop distance for A32 springs. Please include manufacturer part numbers. Try to get the rates in lb./in and kg/mm.

Stock SE: 131F/200R (Linear)

Tein H-Tech: 1.6F/1.2R SKP28-BUB00
Tein S-Tech: 2.2F/1.8R 201F/280R lb./in 3.6F/5R kg/mm SKP28-AUB00
Eibach Pro-Kit: 1.5F/1.3R 6334-14a (or -140)
H&R Sport: 1.4F/1.3R (H&R will not publish spring rates) 53059_928
Progress: 1.7F/1.5R 165F/250R lb/in. #40.1520
Intrax:1.7F/1.6R 60.1.016
Sprint: 2.0F/2.0R 9500
B&G: 1.6F/1.6R Progressive (unknown) Rate #621020
Ksport: 2.2F/2.0R Ksp-lsns04

Progress: 1.7F/1.5R 165F/250R lbs. #40.1520

B&G 1.6F/1.6R Progressive Rate #621020

Tokico:1.25F/1.25R 205F/293R lb/in.

Illuminas# ILK 246
HP# HPK 245
(Springs are sold with strut/shock combo.)

Intrax 1.7f 1.6r 60.1.016
Ksport 2.2f 2.0r Ksp-lsns04
Sprint 2.0f 2.0r 9500
megan racing 1.6f 1.5r mr-ls-nm95

OEM SE springs (linear) estimated:
Front: 250 lbs/in
Rear: 250 lbs/in

OEM GLE/GXE springs (linear) estimated:
Front: 200 lbs/in
Rear: 200 lbs/in

Eibach (progressive)
Front: 166-257 lbs/in
Rear: 166-343 lbs/in

Tokico (progressive)
Front: 111-225 lbs/in
Rear: 148-295 lbs/in

TEIN High-Tech ("H-Tech") (progressive)
Front: 180 lbs/in
Rear: 250 lbs/in

TEIN S-Tech (progressive?)
Front: 200 lbs/in
Rear: 280 lbs/in

TEIN Basic Damper Coilover (linear?)
Front: 390 lbs/in (7 kg/mm)
Rear: 340 lbs/in (6 kg/mm)

Images of Front and Rear Suspension Parts

Front Wheel/Hub Assembly: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_47_full.gif

Front Suspension Assembly: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_48_full.jpg

Front Strut Pic from Nissan FAST system: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_50_full.jpg

Rear Suspension Assembly: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_49_full.jpg

Rear Shock Pic from Nissan FAST system: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...07_51_full.jpg

NOTE: Part numbers shown on FAST pics may have been updated in the past few years. Check w your local dealer parts dept.

F&R Suspension Diagrams

Front Axle & Front Suspension
Rear Axle & Rear Suspension

[phenryiv1]

What Strut Boots do I need for Aftermarket Suspension?

NOTE: KYB strut mounts are NOT recommended due to the reports of premature failure of the front integrated strut bearing.

Strut boots with integrated bump stops are available from KYB or their sister companies.

SB103 for the fronts and SB108 for the rears. Select the front boots for 95' Mustang (SB103) and rear boots for 95' Miata (SB108).

I went to advanced auto and purchased my parts. I did this out of convenience and because I hate waiting for mail-order parts. Advance Auto sells KYB struts for most cars (at least the GR2 model) so I thought that I would try there.

DO NOT BUY THE PARTS THAT THEY LIST AS OEM REPLACEMENTS FOR THE MAXIMA!

So here is the good information-

For the rears:
The advanced auto number was listed as a part 14108 for a company called TRW. The advanced item # is 18511582. According to Advanced auto the KYB ones are made by TRW and repackaged.

I have compared it with the KYB part and they are identical right down to the stampings.

I got this part by asking them for a part for the 95 miata and they came up w/ the 14108 part number, which matched the KYB number (SB108) pretty closely.

For the fronts:
You can do the same with the mustang number (SB103). A friend gave me his KYB fronts and the # was SB103. The advanced auto computers can cross-reference those numbers. I checked with them on this and they have a direct-match part number listed in the computer system.

All 4 boots are about $15 each. They take about 2 days to get in.

Originally Posted by Kevlo911

The TRW strut boots tear pretty easily, I don't like them. I would like to try the KYB ones out to see if they are any more durable. On my buddies 5th gen we just went w/o boots. Many other 5th genners do so as well w/o problems.

The two brands (TRW and KYB) are identical- right down to the stampings.

They don't really hold up well, but they are the only option that we have. Most off-road suspensions (which are exposed to MUCH more harsh conditions than are most of us) use boots for decoration only. On a strut, the piston is largely self-cleaning. The bumpstops are necessary, but if anything, once water gets inside of the boot (and it WILL, eventually) all that the boot does is prevent evaporation and promote rust at any corrodable part of the top of the strut.

[Kevlo911]

Suspension Noise Information
Changing Suspension / Noise from suspension

Suspention Parts
http://staff.jccc.net/dlee/maxima/suspension/

My suspension overhaul...
For those who want to change their steering rack

Most 4th gens are very old now so I would replace the control arms(or change the ball joints and bushings), change the inner and out tie rods. Replace the sway bar end links and bushings. I recommend using the ENERGY suspension OUTER sway bar bushings and the NISSAN inner bushings. For the control arm bushings, the ENERGY ones made noises and I really didn't really need anything better than stock so I went back to OEM. Also I would replace the strut mounts and the strut bearing. All OEM parts should be used for this.

Be careful when clocking the upper spring perch on the front stuts. I see so many installs done wrong or should I say clocked wrong which is the primary cause of most spring noises.

The upper perch has the word OUT stamped on top. It MUST be in line with the sturts lower mounting flange or face outwards twards the fender.

Most every DIY install that has come into my shop for help has had this simple alignment issue wrong.
It's the cause of most spring popping noise issues.

Front - You need four of these. Two on each spring. One goes on the last coil to isolate the spring from the strut and one goes on the 2nd coil from the top to stop noises if they rub or touch each other.

Cost should be about $6.50.

Front P/N 54034-85E10

Rear you only need one. P/N - 55020F

I replaced the rubber isolator as that was chewed up and caused the erratic wobbling of the strut in the first place, and the bearing just to be safe. The respective part numbers were: Isolator # 54320-40U02 and Bearing #54325-5V000. Everything eles looked good at 125K+ miles.

The hardest part was getting the old assembly off the strut shaft as the rubber that located/held the shaft in place was chewed up and caused the original issue with strut shaft to movement. I had to use locking pliers to hold the shaft from rotating while ratcheting the top nut off the strut shaft. The other fun part was getting the two large strut bolts lined up and in on the lower A-arm assembly. Hope this helps.

Also, a warning NOT to buy the KYB strut mounts. They tend to fail much more quickly than OEM.

[pocketrocket]

With most of our beloved 4th gens being 10 years or older, some of us may wish to replace the complete front and rear suspension assembly (i.e., struts/springs and everything in between). I plan on building this complete assembly so I can do a simple swap with the stock, worn-out suspension.

After going through the forum, internet sources, etc, I still a few questions. Hoping to answer them in this Q&A thread, hope this will also be useful to others as well. What I hope to achieve:
- identifying all the little bits and pieces other than the struts and springs
- have a complete list with Nissan part numbers, as well as aftermarket substitutes
- have approximate prices of the parts so others may have a reference point

References I have used:
- MAXFAQs: Good FSM information for suspension components blowup
- DLEE's 4th gen suspension parts list: From 4th gen FAQ, with pictures and approx. prices
- Nissan FAST program
- misc threads

SUSPENSION EXPLODED VIEW

From the FSM:

Front suspension


Rear suspension



From the Nissan FAST program:

Front suspension


Rear suspension




SUSPENSION PARTS LIST

Using information compiled from various sources listed above, I have put together a list of all parts.
FAST part code is listed in (P/C xxxxx) if you want to cross-reference to the FAST exploded view image.


Front suspension (qty req'd/side)

1. Spacer x1

FAST: 54329-39U00 SPACER-FRONT STRUT ISOLATOR (P/C 54329N)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $9.63 (ea)

2. Strut mounting insulator x1

FAST: 54320-40U00 INSULATOR-ASSY-STRUT MOUNTING (P/C 54320)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $40.70 (ea)

3. Strut mounting insulator bracket x1

FAST: 54322-31U00 BRACKET-FRONT STRUT MOUNTING (P/C 54322)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $19.98 (2pc)

4. Strut mounting bearing x1

FAST: 54325-31U01 / 5V000 BEARING-STRUT MOUNTING (P/C 54325)
DLEE: 54325-5V000 only IMG
List price: $19.98 (ea)

5. Upper spring seat x1

FAST: 54040-31U02 SEAT ASSY-FRONT SPRING,UPPER (P/C 54040)
DLEE: Not listed
List price: $? (ea)

6. Upper spring rubber seat x1

FAST: 54034-31U01 SEAT-RUBBER,FRONT SPRING (P/C 54034)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $12.23 (ea)

7. Bound bumper x1

FAST: 54050-38U02 BUMPER ASSY-BOUND (P/C 54050M)
DLEE: 54050-31U02 IMG
List price: $14.25(ea)

NOTE: Aftermarket boots made by KYB, P/N SB103 (for '95 Mustang) is used by many in the front with aftermarket struts and cost approx $15/ea.

8. Coil spring x1

Aftermarket of your choice

9. (Polyutherane tube) x2

FAST: Not listed (P/C 54034+A,54034+B,54034+C)
DLEE: 54034-85E10 SEAT-RUBBER FROIMG
List price: $8.73(ea)

10. Strut assembly x1

Aftermarket of your choice

#. Piston rod lock nut x1

TBD (P/C 54040B)

#. Nut (to hoodledge) x3

TBD (P/C 54588)

#. Strut assembly fixing bolt (to knuckle arm) x2

FAST: 40056-70T10 BOLT-KNUCKLE ARM (P/C 40056X)
List price: $? (ea)

#. Strut assembly fixing nut (to knuckle arm) x2

FAST: 01223-00191 NUT (P/C 54040BB)
List price: $? (ea)

Rear suspension (qty req'd/side)

1. Shock absorber cap x1

FAST: 56204-0M000 CAP-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56204: 02/94-05/95)
DLEE: Not listed
List price: $? (ea)

2. Washer x1

FAST: 56113-73000 / 4U000 (P/C 56113X)
DLEE: Not listed
List price: $? (ea)

3. Bushing x1

FAST: 56217-61L10 BUSH-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56217)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $2.46(ea)

4. Shock absorber mounting seal x1

FAST: 55338-0M000 SEAL-SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING (P/C 55338)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $9.10 (ea)

5. Shock absorber mounting bracket x1

FAST: Not listed BRACKET ASSY-SHOCK ABSORBER MOUNTING (P/C 55322)
DLEE: 55322-31U00 IMG
List price: $26.58 (ea)

6. Upper spring seat rubber x1

FAST: 55034-31U00 SEAT-RUBBER,REAR SPRING UPPER (P/C 55034)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $10.88 (ea)

7. Bushing x1

FAST: 56218-61L10 BUSH-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56218)
DLEE: Same IMG
List price: $2.42 (ea)

8. Bound bumper cover x1

FAST: 55248-01U00 / 2Y000 COVER-BOUND BUMPER,REAR (P/C 55248N)
DLEE: Not listed
List price: $2.42 (ea)

9. Bound bumper x1

FAST: 55240-0M015 / 0M315 BUMPER ASSY-BOUND REAR SUSPENSION (P/C 55240)
DLEE: 55240-0M315 only IMG
List price: $27.95 (ea)

NOTE: Aftermarket boots made by KYB, P/N SB108 (for '95 Miata) is used by many in the front with aftermarket struts and cost approx $15/ea.

10. Coil spring x1

Aftermarket of your choice

11. Shock absorber x1

Aftermarket of your choice

#. Piston rod lock nut x1

FAST: 08912-3401A (02/94-02/96) (P/C 08912-3401A)
FAST: ? (02/96- ) (P/C 55040)

#. Nut (upper) x2

FAST: 01225-00102 NUT (P/C 55080B)

#. Strut assembly fixing bolt (to torsion beam) x1

FAST: 56226-31U00 (02/94-05/95) PIN-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56226M)
FAST: ? (05/95- ) (P/C 55080A)
List price: $? (ea)

#. Strut assembly fixing nut (to torsion beam) x1

FAST: 01225-00072 NUT (P/C 55080BA)
List price: $? (ea)

#. (Polyutherane tube) x1

FAST: ? (P/C 55020F)
List price: $? (ea)

OK, so now I am hoping to get feedback from those who have replaced their suspension to confirm:
- part numbers and qty.
- listed price.
- correct any of the above, including missing information.

DLEE has some misc. nuts and washers on his website but I can't cross reference them so they are not shown here, maybe someone can help me out with that.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Edit: Replaced thumbnails with ful-size image.

I know KYB also makes mounts and bearings for the 4th gen, here's info from the GD forum:

Front Mount - SM5324 - $28 each
Front Mount Bearing - SM5323 - $14 each
Rear Mount Kit - SM5123 - $7 each

(prices are as guidelines only as they are GD prices).

If someone can confirm which FAST part code applies to each part, I will update the post to include the KYB part numbers.

These are the misc. parts on DLEE's list that I could not cross-reference:
01223-00191 NUT SELF LOCK
01225-00072 NUT W/ WASHER

I'm not sure where they belong.

I will try to look up/cross reference these nuts next week to see the size, perhaps this will shed some light on its usage. Maybe they are the missing nuts I need.

KYB SM5324

KYB front mount SM5324 is an aftermarket substitute for 1 part in the front suspension:

2. Strut mounting insulator x1
FAST: 54320-40U00 INSULATOR-ASSY-STRUT MOUNTING (P/C 54320)
DLEE: Same

KYB SM5123

KYB rear mount SM5123 is an aftermarket substitute for 2 parts in the rear suspension:

3. Bushing x1
FAST: 56217-61L10 BUSH-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56217)
DLEE: Same

7. Bushing x1
FAST: 56218-61L10 BUSH-REAR SHOCK ABSORBER (P/C 56218)
DLEE: Same

For SM5324 front mount, Jeff (importtrp) is selling them for $28/ea + shipping in the GD forum. Comparatively, OEM equivalent part is priced ~ $40.70/ea
For SM5123 rear mount, Jeff (importtrp) is selling them for $5 + shipping in the GD forum. Comparatively, OEM equivalent part is priced around $5 also.
_______________

I finally found my thread on the 11th page, guess it didn't get as much feedback as I was hoping

I got my Tokico HP Kit HPK245 (springs + struts) in the mail today, got it from Justin at
www.importcarpartsplus.com who is an org member, would recommend him.

Upon inspection, this is the misc hardware that came with it:

On the front struts:
- piston rod lock nut (P/C 54040B)

On the rear struts:
- piston rod lock nut (P/C 55040)
- washer (P/C 56113X)
- two bushings (P/C 56217 & 56218)

It would seem that some of the smaller hardware will come with the blues. The nut for the front struts were on the strut itself, the stuff for the rear struts were in a plastic bag labelled TOKICO KIT NO. 273 ... I put down the equivalent FAST part codes next to each part above. I don't know who makes the bushings that came with the blues.

You may not need the KYB rear mount SM5123 kit if you buy the blues since the two bushings for the rear are included in the plastic bag ... it was on mine at least. Keep in mind I bought the kit but the bushings were packaged inside the box for the rear struts
If this is true, you can save yourselves about $10 in bushings.

The famous blue shock is in my living room now, next to my budget y-pipe and some very nice red springs

I've managed to get a complete parts' list and also found the different OEM part numbers for the boots depending on if you have a GXE or SE/GLE ... but I will not post these yet until I can confirm them.

PDF file with pics of each part, with part number and prices is available.

Please PM me your e-mail address if you can host.

~ 1.2MB for front, ~ 0.5MB for rear. 2 separate files.

Edit: Preferably to be hosted on maxima.org since this is where I want the file to stay. Mods, is it possible?

Temporarily hosted on files upload as I don't know a better place to post it.

You have to wait ~ 30 seconds, then the download link appears. No popups on my computer so I am guessing it's popup free, if not sorry.

Front part's list
http://files-upload.com/files/454978...PARTS-LIST.pdf

Rear parts' list
http://files-upload.com/files/454979...PARTS-LIST.pdf

Hope you guys like it.

Edit: Links stopped working, uploaded again. Hope someone can host it more "permanently"

[pocketrocket]

The nuts that go on the threads of the strut rod itself usually come with new struts. On the following struts
- KYB GR-2, AGX
- Tokico Blues, Illuminas
- Koni

the nut is the same thread and size as OEM.
_____________

Buying all of this is not cheap, I'm ringing up close to $400 for the bits and pieces front and back ... didn't think it would cost that much.

Question ... I need to trim the rear bumper w/ integrated bumpstops. If anyone has done it before, please let me know.

The bumpstop is flat on the top of the bumper (I assume for it to seat properly). There are 3 sections of the bumpstop before it meets the accordian tube. If I cut off one or two of the top sections, I lose the flat spot.

Just put together one of the fronts. For the front, I did not need spring compressors.

==>

Questions for the experienced ....

1) Do I need more spring isolators? I have used two, one upper and one lower. No, what you have is fine.



For the upper, I started the isolator from the 2nd coil.
I didn't see a need to start it from the first coil since it sits against the upper spring rubber seat and prevents metal to metal contact with the upper spring seat.
The upper spring seat is the black metal bracket in the above pic.
I lined the isolator just before where I believe the 1st and 2nd coil can start to rub.

For the lower, I placed the isolator from the start of the 1st coil to prevent metal to metal contact between spring and strut.

All research I've seen so far indicates that I only need 2 isolators for the front but I'm not sure if the middle coils may rub once installed in the vehicle.

[pocketrocket]

I also did not need spring compressors to assemble the rear.

==>

Only part not shown above is the strut assembly fixing bolt which attaches to the torsion beam. The nut for the missing bolt is shown in the unassembled pic (lower left corner).

For the lower, I installed the isolator from the start of the coil so should have no metal to metal noise between coil and strut.
Thought it worth to mention that the rear isolator (P/N 55031-31U10) has an adhesive on the inside so it's probably best to align it properly the first time




For the upper, there is none specified in all my research.
However, there are a great number of coils close together on the Tokico progressive springs.


Will the coils on the upper side touch once installed? Yes
Do I need to do something with the top coil(s)? Wrapping them will not hurt

[gen4maxima536]

Brake upgrade options:

Front:

• 4 piston 300zx w/ 300zx rotors
  • 300ZX Brake Swap Complete
  • 300Z brake upgrade

• 4 piston 300zx w/ Jeff92se's brackets for cobra rotors
  
  • F/S Thread for Jeff's brackets [LINK]
  • 300ZX BBK Installed "PICS"

• 4 piston 300zx w/Matt93SE/Blehmco's brackets for 6th gen Maxima rotors [LINK]

• J30/Q45 upgrade, using all J30/Q45 front brake parts. Writeup courtesy of kraimer21

• J30/Q45 calipers with Jeff92se's brackets and cobra rotors. Writeup courtesy of karim

• Racingbrake kits Their kits use larger rotors with your stock calipers and an extended torque member

• Kits available from Stillen (You'll have to enter your car info to see prices and more info)
  • Stillen's own kit. [LINK]
  • AP Racing kit. [LINK]
  • Brembo kit. [LINK]

Rear:

• Matt93SE/Blehmco rear brake upgrade w/ 300zx calipers [LINK]

thats all i can think of for now... just to start with
if anyone has anything else to add PM me or phenryiv1, or just post it

What size bolts do I need to remove the rotors?

Front rotors: M10 x 1.25
Rear rotors: M8 x 1.25

[pocketrocket]

Do I need to cut front bumpstops?
Setup is Tokico HP kit blue strut/red progressive spring setup.



The OEM bumpstops are integrated in to the bumper (dustboot).
I don't think I can separate it but I should be able to get a small blade in there and cut away along the ribbed portion of the bumpstop.

I think I might be able to get by without cutting the fronts but I'm hoping others who have done this setup can advise if the drop in ride height will require cutting the front bumpstops.

(Tokico HP kit)

Do I need to cut rear bumpstops?
Setup is Tokico HP kit blue strut/red progressive spring setup.
Mounts are OEM, not motivational mounts



I've read people saying that I don't have to cut it at all.
However, a majority of people cut at "1" or "2".
I added incremental marks at "x.5" because I think cutting there will let the bumpstop sit flat against the mounting bracket.

(Tokico HP kit)

Edit: "0" means no cutting, "3" means cut it off completely which I know is a definite no-no but it made the picture look nice

Originally Posted by djfrestyl

I cut to #1 (per post #34's picture) in every suspension install I do. And I cut about half of the rear bumpstop off. Haven't had one instance of bottoming out. You will be fine.

Thanks ... for the rear, did you mean half as in "1.5" on the pic below or "1"? Cos post #34's pic was for the rear .....



I'm planning to cut the front at "1" as well ...


Thanks to djfreestyl's suggestion, I managed to separate the OEM front bumpstops from the dustboot. He suggested using a screwdriver, I tried (and broke) a chopstick, then I just reached in from the bottom and pulled it out

So here you go, the front OEM dustboot with integrated bumpstop separated for your viewing pleasure. I may be off on the "3" position but no one in the right mind will be cutting it off there right?



I am going to cut the front bumpstop at "1"

[Kevlo911]

4th/5th gen suspension interchangeability

This question seems to be asked alot some reason.

4th gen suspension in a 5th gen:

Originally Posted by JSutter

The lower mounting holes of the front struts will not line up. The spacing on the 5th gen is wider.
The rears will fit with the correct upper mounts. 5th gen rear mounts are larger.

4th gen springs and 5th gen springs are interchangeable ONLY in the front I believe(correct me if I am wrong). But remember the 5th gen has different spring rates.
The rears are NOT interchangeable

[phenryiv1]

Written by 95BLKMAX

I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune ($400+ IMO) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.

**********************

SPECS-(per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)

4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
280x22/ 11.02x0.87
5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
296x24/ 11.65x0.94

4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252
5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-

* Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads

* Have this ubber drill bit...

It cost me $35 locally at a "nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company)

also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)...

I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check

* With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards...


* Make a few cuts along the shield's overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise...


* Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you're using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts.

Additional Pictures:
http://forums.maxima.org/6542846-post2.html

Original thread:
HOW TO- 5.5 Gen Front Brakes on 4th Gen