95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune (as much as one would spend, say for a Z32 upgrade, or the 6th gen rotors with Z32 calipers, etc...) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.

COST-
Calipers and caliper mounting brackets used- $100
RPT plated/ X-Drilled Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads, 2 liters of ATE Blue Racing Fluid- $185shipped
Ubber Drill Bit- $35
Bolts and lockwashers- ~$10


SPECS-(per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)

4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
280x22/ 11.02x0.87
5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
296x24/ 11.65x0.94

4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252
5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252

HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-

* Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads

* Have this ubber drill bit...

It cost me $35 locally at a "nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company)

also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)...

I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check

* With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards...


* Make a few cuts along the shield's overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise...


* Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you're using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts :-D

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

All Buttoned Up!


From a distance with the light against me, lol


Up Close

xkazik

iTrader: (14)

nice nice , can you see any difference ?

Hexon

iTrader: (1)

Is the that orange hawtness of ksports I see? Neat project. I am interested to hear if you have notice an increase in breaking. And how much did this cost?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Well in all honestly, my old brakes were worn to hell. Pads on the passenger side had about 2mm of material left. Almost down to the metal backing. So yes its definitely worlds better. However, I DO remember what these brakes felt like 3 yrs ago whenI changed them, and yes, these 5.5gen brakes ARE noticeably stronger as far as initial bite and just orerall braking power. Its like adding a turbo to the engine... but to the brakes, LOL. The second time I slammed them from 80 on the highway during the break-in, car felt like it was going to flip forward, lol.

Nope, those are blown 6yo+ AGXs lol. Coilovers are not worth the cost for MY uses.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I am going to add this to the stickys.

Great write-up!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

so you swapped in 5th gen calipers, and rotors by boring out the original caliper bolt holes and cutting the backing plate?

black_maxed95

iTrader: (41)

cool job, good to see something new. But Im wondering about the difference in brake power. The specs show that the 5.5 and 4th gen calipers are the exact same. Wouldnt that mean the braking is the same? Are the 5.5 pads bigger? If not its the same surface area contact and brake pressure, right?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Caliper's pot is the same size, but the body of the caliper itself is bigger (as relevant as that may be). The increase in braking power comes front he larger pads (more surface area), and the fact the caliper is located a bit higher away from the center of the hub to clear the larger diameter rotors (more torque). The two combined made it worth it to me, given how little I spent. Great bang for the buck.

**** I added a cost breakdown to the original thread****

black_maxed95

iTrader: (41)

ok I understand where the braking power comes from. I wasnt sure if the pads were bigger on a 5.5 and I didnt think about the larger torque. I agree, definately a great bang for the buck. Great alternative for those that dont want/need a bbk.

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

Nice upgrade E !!!

vilmaxima

nice upgrade, for a great price. Good job!

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

I was wondering when you were going to install those things, they were sitting at my house for a hot minute..

WhiteA32

iTrader: (20)

How about clearance issues? Are there any?

Hexon

iTrader: (1)

Where did you order all of your stuff at that price?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

well hot damn, seems like every week your installing something new and adding a write up.

good job on these. I might have to look into this

MOHFpro90

iTrader: (11)

Goodness man...Im gonna have to talk to you on aim about this. Nice job.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

so, with the whole drill bit thing... would a stepped bit be good to use to get it started (1 step deep) and then finish it off with a straight bit?

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

go for it

seriously- and I'll give all the credit to the bit's construction, you dont need a step bit at all. This particular bit cut through the iron hub like butter. Just go slow at first. Once you're about 1mm into it, it wont skip around so you can just push it right through no problem

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

cool. so any-old-bit won't do tho will it? i was wonderin' if you could loan me the thing for $35 and then give $30 back when i mailed it back maybe? kinda 'spensive for something i'm only gonna use once.

nyc96max

iTrader: (5)

nice write up and good upgrade

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

how could you make this work for the newer q45 caliper? or is that way off the wall?

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

not off the wall just teh q45/j30 need a wider rotor. I cant say ya or nay for sure but I know those calipers dont bolt up to stock 4g rotors etc, which is why we needed to buy Jeffs brackets

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

YES! I've been waiting/wondering why no-one has done this!! AWESOME!

Also, a little tip, you can avoid having to bleed all 4 by very lightly pinching the line with visegrips until you are ready to install and bleed.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

ok. that makes sense. this is a next on my list.

Nrw

iTrader: (8)

Any idea if these will fit under the stock SE 16's?

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Not sure what year you are talking about but the q45 should be a direct bolt on, you only have to get q45 rotors and have them milled down about 3mm. If you are going for bigger diameter rotors like 12.6 and 13 then you need the brackets.
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...inch-rims.html

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it should.
the 5.5 came stock with 16s

Nrw

iTrader: (8)

Yea I already know of that link, and have read it a few time prior to you posting it. But it doesn't answer my question. I was asking about the 5.5 swap since it appears that it is fairly new.


Thanks

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

5.5 came with stock 17"s
5th gen had stock 16"s

unless I'm missing something I've never seen a 5.5th gen with wheels smaller than 17"

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

according to 2 places I looked there was a base 16" wheel.
Edmunds and Tirerack both show 16" as standard

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

Sorry, a few people down here already lined up for this brake upgrade. So I'll be using it frequently.

thank u

Thank you, thats part of the reason why I did it. I knew that it MAY not have worked but I tired anyways and there it is, lol. and yea I've done that to stock lines but I wasnt too sure about doing it to my SS lines.

correct, these brakes will clear MOST 16" wheels.

96blkonblkse

iTrader: (18)

Base 5.5's came with 16's. GLE/SE came with 17's.

If it clears the 5.5 gens 16x6.5's then i dont see why it wouldnt clear the 4th gens 16x6.5's because i believe they are the same offset and similar spoke design.

Anyhow, i guess this would be between stock and Q45's (stock, 5.5gen, 6th gen, q45, z32/r32, brembo/apracing).

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

I would think so too as far as braking power is concerned.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

Nice! Not only are these slightly more powerful due to the slightly larger diameter and larger pad, but I bet they absorb and dissipate heat better too!

My stock 4th gen brakes are quite wimpy. If I drive spirited on a mtn road, after hauling speed down hard on the brakes 6 or 7 times I can feel the stock brakes starting to fade already.

oVeRdOsE

Damn, thats is cool. I have a set of 5.5 caliper in my garage since a year. I did a 5.5 to 6th swap on a 2002.

If you say thats it work better, I'll put the set on my 4th then


Thanks

PearlRalizinG2k

so not sure if i'm understanding this, but right now i have 4th gen knuckle, hub, and bearing. I picked up this stuff from the junk yard since i need a new hub and bearing on my 5TH GEN. What do I have to do to make this work on my 5th gen? just drill the 2 holes that hold the caliper on the knuckle of the 4th gen hub? OR what?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you should have just picked up 5.5 hubs.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

If you're using 4th gen hardware on your 5th gen, then yes, all that applies to the 4th gen (since you have 4th gen hardware) applies here. If you would have got 5th gen hardware, it would have been a direct replacement.

Even 5.0 would have worked.

PearlRalizinG2k

yeah well today i figured out that the two holes on the 4th gen steering knuckle dont align with the 5th gen struts. so it's a no go for me. thankz for the help guys.