300Z brake upgrade
03-22-2005, 11:41 PM
#2
I'm looking in to the same thing best I've found so far is:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385846
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm
http://www.mattblehm.com/
Hopefully someone can jump in with something more definitive, I hope this helps.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385846
http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm
http://www.mattblehm.com/
Hopefully someone can jump in with something more definitive, I hope this helps.
03-23-2005, 03:44 AM
#3
Items needed: '92-96 300ZX FRONT Calipers AND Rotors. *Note*: Prior to installation of the rotors, you must MILL down the RADIUS of the rotors by 3mm. THIS MUST BE DONE in order for the rotors to fit! YOU MUST DO THIS PRIOR TO INSTALLATION!, 17" Rims with clearance in the middle for the Calipers.
Optional: Front 300ZX stainless steel brake lines, new brake pads.
Tools needed: Complete Metric tool set (deep and short sockets, drivers, etc), Sheet metal cutters, torque wrench, brake fluid, brake bleeder kit, jack, jack stands, gloves, flat head screw driver, hammer, bungee cords (4), WD40, thick towel, friend
1. Start by raising the car on stands. Let's start on the driver side. Remove the wheel and place the lug nuts in a smart place. Now, we want to remove the stock caliper from the car. There are two bolts that hold it in place on the steering knuckle. They are two 17mm bolts. Remove the bottom bolt first. Now with the BUNGEE cords, loop one end to the top of your springs and the other end around a hole in the caliper so that the thing doesn't drop onto your foot. Remove the remaining bolt.
2. Now that the stock caliper is free from the body, remove the stock rotor. This might be a bit tricky, due to the fact that the rotors might be rusty and have melded themselves onto the axel. Using the thick towel as a protective barrier, hammer the rotor off the car, rotating the whole thing and striking the rotor in equal distances, until the thing pops off.. it should pop off cleanly.
3. With the rotor off, you can now see that the dust shield is PRESSED onto the steering knuckle when it was assembled, and we wish to take it off, for it will interfere with the Z caliper. Using the flat headed screw driver, chisel your way in between the dust cover and the cv joint. Wedge the screw driver in there, whack a few times and try to pull the cover off. Do this a SEVERAL different angles, until the dust cover pops off and is now loose.
4. Using the sheet metal cutters, find the thinnest portion of the dust cover and slice there, remove the dust cover completely and then proceed to throw it away. it is now USELESS.
5. OK. Now that you've gotten the dust shield off, you're almost done.. did you know that?
6. Attach the 300ZX Rotor, which should already have been milled down 3mm from the radius, onto the studs. Put in place with a few lug nuts, tighten so that they are FIRM, and that the rotor has no LATERAL movement.
7. Attach the 300ZX Caliper with the same 17mm bolts you took off of the stock caliper. Tighten it up. There should be 1-1.5mm clearance on the edges of the caliper with the rotor. IF NOT, then reinstall the caliper and retighten. IF NOT, then the rotors were not milled correctly and have them checked out!!!
8. Now, here's the tricky part. Changing the brake lines from the stock caliper two the 300ZX. Pop the hood, and open up the Brake fluid cap. Now, with one person should change the lines while one person pours in the brake fluid into the reservoir so that it does not fall below the line. This might be messy.. watch out! Remove the stock caliper, and remove the bungee cord.
9. Use the brake bleeder kit and bleed the brakes so that there is no air in the lines. Please refer to your service manual or car care professional on how to bleed brakes.
10 After the brakes have been bleed and the brake feels firm. Torque the bolts that hold the caliper to ~60 pounds
11 Repeat on other side.
12 MAKE SURE the pedal feels FIRM and not spongie. If it does, you have done something wrong and RE-BLEED the brakes.
13 Road test on a straight road with no cars! Go slow and brake. Slow. Brake. Then go for about a mile with this slow-medium speeds and soft-medium pressure in braking. Then pick up the speeds and press harder on the brake. The car should feel firm and the stopping distances should be shorter.
14 Done.
- Cheston Chiu. (maximadriver)
Optional: Front 300ZX stainless steel brake lines, new brake pads.
Tools needed: Complete Metric tool set (deep and short sockets, drivers, etc), Sheet metal cutters, torque wrench, brake fluid, brake bleeder kit, jack, jack stands, gloves, flat head screw driver, hammer, bungee cords (4), WD40, thick towel, friend
1. Start by raising the car on stands. Let's start on the driver side. Remove the wheel and place the lug nuts in a smart place. Now, we want to remove the stock caliper from the car. There are two bolts that hold it in place on the steering knuckle. They are two 17mm bolts. Remove the bottom bolt first. Now with the BUNGEE cords, loop one end to the top of your springs and the other end around a hole in the caliper so that the thing doesn't drop onto your foot. Remove the remaining bolt.
2. Now that the stock caliper is free from the body, remove the stock rotor. This might be a bit tricky, due to the fact that the rotors might be rusty and have melded themselves onto the axel. Using the thick towel as a protective barrier, hammer the rotor off the car, rotating the whole thing and striking the rotor in equal distances, until the thing pops off.. it should pop off cleanly.
3. With the rotor off, you can now see that the dust shield is PRESSED onto the steering knuckle when it was assembled, and we wish to take it off, for it will interfere with the Z caliper. Using the flat headed screw driver, chisel your way in between the dust cover and the cv joint. Wedge the screw driver in there, whack a few times and try to pull the cover off. Do this a SEVERAL different angles, until the dust cover pops off and is now loose.
4. Using the sheet metal cutters, find the thinnest portion of the dust cover and slice there, remove the dust cover completely and then proceed to throw it away. it is now USELESS.
5. OK. Now that you've gotten the dust shield off, you're almost done.. did you know that?
6. Attach the 300ZX Rotor, which should already have been milled down 3mm from the radius, onto the studs. Put in place with a few lug nuts, tighten so that they are FIRM, and that the rotor has no LATERAL movement.
7. Attach the 300ZX Caliper with the same 17mm bolts you took off of the stock caliper. Tighten it up. There should be 1-1.5mm clearance on the edges of the caliper with the rotor. IF NOT, then reinstall the caliper and retighten. IF NOT, then the rotors were not milled correctly and have them checked out!!!
8. Now, here's the tricky part. Changing the brake lines from the stock caliper two the 300ZX. Pop the hood, and open up the Brake fluid cap. Now, with one person should change the lines while one person pours in the brake fluid into the reservoir so that it does not fall below the line. This might be messy.. watch out! Remove the stock caliper, and remove the bungee cord.
9. Use the brake bleeder kit and bleed the brakes so that there is no air in the lines. Please refer to your service manual or car care professional on how to bleed brakes.
10 After the brakes have been bleed and the brake feels firm. Torque the bolts that hold the caliper to ~60 pounds
11 Repeat on other side.
12 MAKE SURE the pedal feels FIRM and not spongie. If it does, you have done something wrong and RE-BLEED the brakes.
13 Road test on a straight road with no cars! Go slow and brake. Slow. Brake. Then go for about a mile with this slow-medium speeds and soft-medium pressure in braking. Then pick up the speeds and press harder on the brake. The car should feel firm and the stopping distances should be shorter.
14 Done.
- Cheston Chiu. (maximadriver)
03-24-2005, 12:38 AM
#7
ok, let me get this straight, to bleed the brakes kinda got me confused. it says that
"Changing the brake lines from the stock caliper two the 300ZX. Pop the hood, and open up the Brake fluid cap. Now, with one person should change the lines while one person pours in the brake fluid into the reservoir so that it does not fall below the line. This might be messy.. watch out! Remove the stock caliper, and remove the bungee cord."
so while you pour the fluid, the guy has to be changing the lines at the same time?
wouldnt it be take the line out, and face it towards a bucket and have someone pour the fluid in while it bleeds?
"Changing the brake lines from the stock caliper two the 300ZX. Pop the hood, and open up the Brake fluid cap. Now, with one person should change the lines while one person pours in the brake fluid into the reservoir so that it does not fall below the line. This might be messy.. watch out! Remove the stock caliper, and remove the bungee cord."
so while you pour the fluid, the guy has to be changing the lines at the same time?
wouldnt it be take the line out, and face it towards a bucket and have someone pour the fluid in while it bleeds?
03-30-2005, 12:58 PM
#10
Originally Posted by KMax2988
Yup, you gotta grind that arm back till the rotor clears.
Is it only for some cars?
03-30-2005, 01:04 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Williamstown, NJ
Posts: 602
It was mentioned on an older write up I saw quite a few years ago but it's one of those things that is easy to overlook when you're trying to explain the install process to someone else.
I've had to do it to every Maxima I installed the full Z32 front brake upgrade on.
I've had to do it to every Maxima I installed the full Z32 front brake upgrade on.
03-30-2005, 01:49 PM
#12
Originally Posted by KMax2988
It was mentioned on an older write up I saw quite a few years ago but it's one of those things that is easy to overlook when you're trying to explain the install process to someone else.
I've had to do it to every Maxima I installed the full Z32 front brake upgrade on.
I've had to do it to every Maxima I installed the full Z32 front brake upgrade on.
so just grind it down and that's all right?
anymore problems i should be aware of?
dont want to run into a problem that i cant solve and have to put everything back together again until i find out whats' wrong.
-so mill down rotors 3mm from radius.
-and grind down the lower control arm.
as far as i know, thats it right?
03-30-2005, 05:18 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Williamstown, NJ
Posts: 602
Originally Posted by Maximus_95
so just grind it down and that's all right?
anymore problems i should be aware of?
dont want to run into a problem that i cant solve and have to put everything back together again until i find out whats' wrong.
-so mill down rotors 3mm from radius.
-and grind down the lower control arm.
as far as i know, thats it right?
anymore problems i should be aware of?
dont want to run into a problem that i cant solve and have to put everything back together again until i find out whats' wrong.
-so mill down rotors 3mm from radius.
-and grind down the lower control arm.
as far as i know, thats it right?
03-30-2005, 09:04 PM
#16
Originally Posted by The New CLIMAX
Be sure to have the correct clearance with the rims if not you will have some problems. My rims didn't have the correct clearance and I had to shave down the "NISSAN" lettering a bit.
oh, no worries, my wheels clear it, barely, but clears, the only thing i was worried about was that lower control arm! ill post pics of it after im done. thanx everyone for the help!
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