4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.
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I wanted bigger brakes, but I didnt want to spend a fortune (as much as one would spend, say for a Z32 upgrade, or the 6th gen rotors with Z32 calipers, etc...) for just front brakes. Plus I dont autoX, I just do alot of highway spirited driving; so I wanted a beefier setup that wouldnt break the bank.
COST-
Calipers and caliper mounting brackets used- $100
RPT plated/ X-Drilled Rotors, Axxis Metal Master Pads, 2 liters of ATE Blue Racing Fluid- $185shipped
Ubber Drill Bit- $35
Bolts and lockwashers- ~$10
**********************
SPECS-(per 1995 FSM and 2003 FSM)
4th gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
280x22/ 11.02x0.87
5.5 gen Rotors (mm/ inches)
296x24/ 11.65x0.94
4th gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252
5.5 gen Caliper Pot (mm/ inches)
57.2/ 2.252
HOW TO- (I write this assuming you already know how to do a brake job, this how to made with attention to the work specifically related to the conversion process of being able to install these bigger brakes)-
* Remove wheels, calipers (disconnect the lines from them but have a bottle near, they will leak alot of fluid), caliper mounting brackets and pads
* Have this ubber drill bit...
It cost me $35 locally at a "nothing but nuts and bolts- specialized hardware store (Mitchell Supply Company)
also 4 of these Metric bolts with lock washers (stock 4th gen on left, new 5.5gen on right)...
I bought them so long ago I dont recall the specs, so just go to the hardware store with the caliper mounting bracket for thme to check
* With the Ubber drill bit, drill out the two holes on the hub. Try your best to keep it straight. Go slow with the bit at first because if it gets caught up, the drill WILL fling around and it could cause bodily harm depending of how strong of a drill you have. Once it started boring the hole out just go downtown on them. They should look like this afterwards...
* Make a few cuts along the shield's overlap up to the vertical part and with pliers bend the overlap up to vertical. The 5.5gen rotors wont fit otherwise...
* Now with that done, the installation is the exact same as a normal brake job, only that you're using the 5.5 gen parts. Hook up the lines and you will have to bleed ALL 4 calipers. At least with me, I let so much fluid drain that air got into the master cylinder, thus my line for the rear brakes had air, so I had to bleed all 4 corners. Break them in and enjoy the noticeably improved braking over that of the 4th gen parts :-D
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Guys I need money to recover from my recent engine build (it wasnt by choice LOL). Im selling a Holset turbo if you are interested
Is the that orange hawtness of ksports I see? Neat project. I am interested to hear if you have notice an increase in breaking. And how much did this cost?
Well in all honestly, my old brakes were worn to hell. Pads on the passenger side had about 2mm of material left. Almost down to the metal backing. So yes its definitely worlds better. However, I DO remember what these brakes felt like 3 yrs ago whenI changed them, and yes, these 5.5gen brakes ARE noticeably stronger as far as initial bite and just orerall braking power. Its like adding a turbo to the engine... but to the brakes, LOL. The second time I slammed them from 80 on the highway during the break-in, car felt like it was going to flip forward, lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hexon
Is the that orange hawtness of ksports I see? Neat project. I am interested to hear if you have notice an increase in breaking. And how much did this cost?
Nope, those are blown 6yo+ AGXs lol. Coilovers are not worth the cost for MY uses.
__________________
Guys I need money to recover from my recent engine build (it wasnt by choice LOL). Im selling a Holset turbo if you are interested
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
cool job, good to see something new. But Im wondering about the difference in brake power. The specs show that the 5.5 and 4th gen calipers are the exact same. Wouldnt that mean the braking is the same? Are the 5.5 pads bigger? If not its the same surface area contact and brake pressure, right?
__________________ I like to "do it myself" 5MT SE 96er:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironwork
i am knew to this forum am i am amazed at how costructive your arguments are. no flameing and well thought posts.
cool job, good to see something new. But Im wondering about the difference in brake power. The specs show that the 5.5 and 4th gen calipers are the exact same. Wouldnt that mean the braking is the same? Are the 5.5 pads bigger? If not its the same surface area contact and brake pressure, right?
Caliper's pot is the same size, but the body of the caliper itself is bigger (as relevant as that may be). The increase in braking power comes front he larger pads (more surface area), and the fact the caliper is located a bit higher away from the center of the hub to clear the larger diameter rotors (more torque). The two combined made it worth it to me, given how little I spent. Great bang for the buck.
**** I added a cost breakdown to the original thread****
__________________
Guys I need money to recover from my recent engine build (it wasnt by choice LOL). Im selling a Holset turbo if you are interested
ok I understand where the braking power comes from. I wasnt sure if the pads were bigger on a 5.5 and I didnt think about the larger torque. I agree, definately a great bang for the buck. Great alternative for those that dont want/need a bbk.
__________________ I like to "do it myself" 5MT SE 96er:
MEVI + NWP Spacers, Full Exhaust, Flywheel, lotsa more: MOD LIST
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironwork
i am knew to this forum am i am amazed at how costructive your arguments are. no flameing and well thought posts.
well hot damn, seems like every week your installing something new and adding a write up.
good job on these. I might have to look into this
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMax03
Where are the moderators???? This guy should have been banned after his first reply when he first joined this forum! I'm totally in awe with his behavior and ruthless antics on someone else's thread!!!!! I believe he's broken every rule at least twice...????????
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Goodness man...Im gonna have to talk to you on aim about this. Nice job.
go for it
Quote:
Originally Posted by capedcadaver
so, with the whole drill bit thing... would a stepped bit be good to use to get it started (1 step deep) and then finish it off with a straight bit?
seriously- and I'll give all the credit to the bit's construction, you dont need a step bit at all. This particular bit cut through the iron hub like butter. Just go slow at first. Once you're about 1mm into it, it wont skip around so you can just push it right through no problem
__________________
Guys I need money to recover from my recent engine build (it wasnt by choice LOL). Im selling a Holset turbo if you are interested
seriously- and I'll give all the credit to the bit's construction, you dont need a step bit at all. This particular bit cut through the iron hub like butter. Just go slow at first. Once you're about 1mm into it, it wont skip around so you can just push it right through no problem
cool. so any-old-bit won't do tho will it? i was wonderin' if you could loan me the thing for $35 and then give $30 back when i mailed it back maybe? kinda 'spensive for something i'm only gonna use once.
__________________ PieceOut.FallToPeacesNew to the forum? CLICK HERE!!!! 1985 Nissan 300zx 2-seater: VG30E | 5spd Swap | Bilstein | 5-lug conversion | Polyurethane everything | Resurrection-in-progress! 2004 Honda Civic EX Coupe: 1.7L VTEC | 5spd | CAI soon | LED tails and Projectors soon | ES Poly Motormounts soon | 'bad weather' car/backup for teh Z 1990 Nissan Maxima GXE: VG30E | VLSD-5 swap | Exedy | NWP | a33b(F)/z31(R) BBK | ES poly | SE susp swap | 2k2SE 17s | retired Aug 28th '09 2005 Nissan Maxima SE: VQ35DE | 6spd | Carolina Panthers front lisence plate | Brother's car, not mine | <-- Therefore still 100% stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOksa
Horsepower, torque and speed are all known by The State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive disorders.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigleman
how much would it cost to resleeve?
how does an aluminum motor form rust on the cylinder walls???
DO NOT PM ME ABOUT PROBLEMS WITH YOUR CAR UNLESS I TELL YOU TO. THAT'S WHAT THE FORUM IS FOR
not off the wall just teh q45/j30 need a wider rotor. I cant say ya or nay for sure but I know those calipers dont bolt up to stock 4g rotors etc, which is why we needed to buy Jeffs brackets
not off the wall just teh q45/j30 need a wider rotor. I cant say ya or nay for sure but I know those calipers dont bolt up to stock 4g rotors etc, which is why we needed to buy Jeffs brackets
ok. that makes sense. this is a next on my list.
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how could you make this work for the newer q45 caliper? or is that way off the wall?
Not sure what year you are talking about but the q45 should be a direct bolt on, you only have to get q45 rotors and have them milled down about 3mm. If you are going for bigger diameter rotors like 12.6 and 13 then you need the brackets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nrw
Any idea if these will fit under the stock SE 16's?
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
Yea I already know of that link, and have read it a few time prior to you posting it. But it doesn't answer my question. I was asking about the 5.5 swap since it appears that it is fairly new.
unless I'm missing something I've never seen a 5.5th gen with wheels smaller than 17"
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMax03
Where are the moderators???? This guy should have been banned after his first reply when he first joined this forum! I'm totally in awe with his behavior and ruthless antics on someone else's thread!!!!! I believe he's broken every rule at least twice...????????
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
cool. so any-old-bit won't do tho will it? i was wonderin' if you could loan me the thing for $35 and then give $30 back when i mailed it back maybe? kinda 'spensive for something i'm only gonna use once.
Sorry, a few people down here already lined up for this brake upgrade. So I'll be using it frequently.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyc96max
nice write up and good upgrade
thank u
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRRZ350
YES! I've been waiting/wondering why no-one has done this!! AWESOME!
Also, a little tip, you can avoid having to bleed all 4 by very lightly pinching the line with visegrips until you are ready to install and bleed.
Thank you, thats part of the reason why I did it. I knew that it MAY not have worked but I tired anyways and there it is, lol. and yea I've done that to stock lines but I wasnt too sure about doing it to my SS lines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by internetautomar
according to 2 places I looked there was a base 16" wheel.
Edmunds and Tirerack both show 16" as standard
correct, these brakes will clear MOST 16" wheels.
__________________
Guys I need money to recover from my recent engine build (it wasnt by choice LOL). Im selling a Holset turbo if you are interested
If it clears the 5.5 gens 16x6.5's then i dont see why it wouldnt clear the 4th gens 16x6.5's because i believe they are the same offset and similar spoke design.
Anyhow, i guess this would be between stock and Q45's (stock, 5.5gen, 6th gen, q45, z32/r32, brembo/apracing).
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Nice! Not only are these slightly more powerful due to the slightly larger diameter and larger pad, but I bet they absorb and dissipate heat better too!
My stock 4th gen brakes are quite wimpy. If I drive spirited on a mtn road, after hauling speed down hard on the brakes 6 or 7 times I can feel the stock brakes starting to fade already.
so not sure if i'm understanding this, but right now i have 4th gen knuckle, hub, and bearing. I picked up this stuff from the junk yard since i need a new hub and bearing on my 5TH GEN. What do I have to do to make this work on my 5th gen? just drill the 2 holes that hold the caliper on the knuckle of the 4th gen hub? OR what?
so not sure if i'm understanding this, but right now i have 4th gen knuckle, hub, and bearing. I picked up this stuff from the junk yard since i need a new hub and bearing on my 5TH GEN. What do I have to do to make this work on my 5th gen? just drill the 2 holes that hold the caliper on the knuckle of the 4th gen hub? OR what?
96 Green A/T gone
94 Pathfinder POS GONE! | 79 Camaro sold
98 I30t Silver on black A/T gone | 96 Granite Pearl (AKA Purple) A/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 96 I30 Black gone
92 maroon VE A/T gone | 92 white VE M/T gone
92 grey VE A/T gone | 6/84 L24E last of the RWD Maxima gone
so not sure if i'm understanding this, but right now i have 4th gen knuckle, hub, and bearing. I picked up this stuff from the junk yard since i need a new hub and bearing on my 5TH GEN. What do I have to do to make this work on my 5th gen? just drill the 2 holes that hold the caliper on the knuckle of the 4th gen hub? OR what?
If you're using 4th gen hardware on your 5th gen, then yes, all that applies to the 4th gen (since you have 4th gen hardware) applies here. If you would have got 5th gen hardware, it would have been a direct replacement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by internetautomar
you should have just picked up 5.5 hubs.
Even 5.0 would have worked.
__________________ 03 SE 4AT 242whp/238wtq
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yeah well today i figured out that the two holes on the 4th gen steering knuckle dont align with the 5th gen struts. so it's a no go for me. thankz for the help guys.
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