MEVI "FAQ"
05-19-2003, 02:30 PM
#1
Most Perverted Member of the SE-L Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,512
MEVI question...........
Ok, all you maxima pros, i've got a question that even though it's been discussed countless times, has never really been answered:
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
And if that's so, then is it really worth it for 99 owners to get a MEVI?
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
And if that's so, then is it really worth it for 99 owners to get a MEVI?
05-19-2003, 04:41 PM
#2
Dyno plot says I have the most area under the Administrator curve
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
Ans1: Yes
Ans2: Up to you.
The power you gain at the top-end is equal to the power you lose in the low/mid-range with the MEVI w/o a raised rev-limiter. So it's just a question of where you want the power.
Me: I live in the crowded DC burbs where you're lucky to break 60, let alone 80, so I'll stick with the US Intake Manifold and enjoy its better low/mid-range torque. More top-end is nearly useless for me. I'll take all the torque I can get!
If you live in Texas or another very rural area where there are tons of open roads and highways to explore, or if you just like awesome highway power, than an MEVI even w/o a raised rev limiter will still be satisfying for you.
The only way to have your cake and eat it too (get the best of both worlds) is to have a raised rev-limiter.
Ans2: Up to you.
The power you gain at the top-end is equal to the power you lose in the low/mid-range with the MEVI w/o a raised rev-limiter. So it's just a question of where you want the power.
Me: I live in the crowded DC burbs where you're lucky to break 60, let alone 80, so I'll stick with the US Intake Manifold and enjoy its better low/mid-range torque. More top-end is nearly useless for me. I'll take all the torque I can get!
If you live in Texas or another very rural area where there are tons of open roads and highways to explore, or if you just like awesome highway power, than an MEVI even w/o a raised rev limiter will still be satisfying for you.
The only way to have your cake and eat it too (get the best of both worlds) is to have a raised rev-limiter.
05-19-2003, 04:52 PM
#3
THE POST TO END ALL MEVI QUESTIONS....
Originally posted by fearthegecko
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
And if that's so, then is it really worth it for 99 owners to get a MEVI?
Dave is right, that is a tough one.
I too have the 99.5 and I have the VI. On the one hand, as I30tMikeD said, it does make the engine feel and sound much more refined. The intake has toned down a little in volume, but the tone of it is different now too.
Unfortunately you can feel the loss when you're just cruising along and give it some gas. It doesn't have all the "punch" it used to in the mid-range.
This is the price you pay, however, for a VQ that screams all the way to the redline (and someties rev-limiter). It's not just about passing power either. It's about revving out every gear (well usually just 1-3) and having it feel and sound great all the way to the top. Pre-VI it really annoyed me to have the VQ pull so hard in the low and mid range, but then just strain, choke and die past 5500 RPM. Now it just begs to be revved out.
If I could go back and do it all again...... I'd buy a 95/96 Seriously though, I'd still buy it. It may not help your 1/4 mile times but it makes the car feel more complete.
I too have the 99.5 and I have the VI. On the one hand, as I30tMikeD said, it does make the engine feel and sound much more refined. The intake has toned down a little in volume, but the tone of it is different now too.
Unfortunately you can feel the loss when you're just cruising along and give it some gas. It doesn't have all the "punch" it used to in the mid-range.
This is the price you pay, however, for a VQ that screams all the way to the redline (and someties rev-limiter). It's not just about passing power either. It's about revving out every gear (well usually just 1-3) and having it feel and sound great all the way to the top. Pre-VI it really annoyed me to have the VQ pull so hard in the low and mid range, but then just strain, choke and die past 5500 RPM. Now it just begs to be revved out.
If I could go back and do it all again...... I'd buy a 95/96 Seriously though, I'd still buy it. It may not help your 1/4 mile times but it makes the car feel more complete.
Links To .Org Threads
Does anyone have an aftermarket ECU without an MEVI?
Question for someone with VI.
MEVI...im interested but confused
looking for MEVI links
How do you like your MEVI for daily driving?
VI stress
Who has both MEVI and JWT ECU?
MEVI Guts pics??
A ? for all VI owners
VI or NX KIT?
Y-pipe vs MEVI.....what's better?
After all this, is the VI worth it or nah....
Wow, MEVI is awesome for top speed!
Does the MEVI Benefit Turbo/Supercharged Maximas?
SC+MEVI People, please read.
MEVI Dyno--Where O' Where Has My Peak Torque Gone
How often do you use your MEVI?
Y-Pipe or MEVI first??
Hey auto guys, VI works well...14.77@93.5 mph
Determing shift points from Mr Cranman's dyno with MEVI&JWT ECU
Benefits of MEVI on a 98 automatic...?
PPL running Supercharger AND Variable Intake...
I have a fully functional Variable intake
What is the difference between the MEVI and the (5th gen VI)....
Question about the vaccum cannister for the VI
Well, tried out the VI to the track.....
Flywheel or MEVI: which would you do?
Issue with my Harlan rpm switch on MEVI. Any ideas?
installed MEVI on 99 SE-L CA AUTO
Variable Intake Question
MEVI Variable Intake Manifold: Why not use an Electrical Solenoid to activate it?
MEVI question, what cars can I get a MAP/Baro switch off of?
Harlan RPM switch and ME VI
How often does your car see 5k RPMs and over?
Here is my VI dyno stuff
Will the VI work/be worth it with an AUTOmagic
4th Gen Variable Intake (NA) Dyno Results!
ME VI Installed
Links To Other Helpful Sites
iansw's site
Mr. Cranman's MEVI Overview (courtesy of xHypex)
MEVI Install How-To (also courtesy of xHypex)
can someone please add that to the FAQ so I don't have to search through 17 pages again?
05-19-2003, 10:37 PM
#4
Very thorough JeffesonM 
fearthegecko, like you I have a '99 and have no hope for an ECU. I do like having my VI, especially on the highway. However, most forget that in any boosted application (S/C, turbo, nitrous) the VI will supplement gains very nicely. Hopefully I'll have some dynos to post soon.
-hype
fearthegecko, like you I have a '99 and have no hope for an ECU. I do like having my VI, especially on the highway. However, most forget that in any boosted application (S/C, turbo, nitrous) the VI will supplement gains very nicely. Hopefully I'll have some dynos to post soon.
-hype
05-20-2003, 05:36 AM
#5
Variable Intake Part and Accessory Numbers
VI Parts
2 x 08310-61462 / screw
9 x 08050-6205A / bolt
1 x 14010-38U02 / collector
1 x 14027-38U00 / cover
1 x 14032-38U00 / gasket
1 x 14033-38U00 / gasket
12 x 14511-38U00 / pin
1 x 14512-38U00 / shaft
6 x 14513-38U00 / valve
1 x 14515-40F00 / O-ring
1 x 14517-38U00 / actuator
The Plastic Cover contains these pieces might be more but this seems to be it
2 x nut 01217-00251
1 x cover 14041-38U00
1 x bolt 01121-04881
1 x support 14017-38U00
2 x bolt 08156-61628
Vacuum Solenoid- GM Part Number
This Solenoid comes with and open end for Positive and Negative Contact Points, If you look inside the contact area you will see a + for Positive.
Vacuum Canister - Nissan Part Number
2 x 08310-61462 / screw
9 x 08050-6205A / bolt
1 x 14010-38U02 / collector
1 x 14027-38U00 / cover
1 x 14032-38U00 / gasket
1 x 14033-38U00 / gasket
12 x 14511-38U00 / pin
1 x 14512-38U00 / shaft
6 x 14513-38U00 / valve
1 x 14515-40F00 / O-ring
1 x 14517-38U00 / actuator
The Plastic Cover contains these pieces might be more but this seems to be it
2 x nut 01217-00251
1 x cover 14041-38U00
1 x bolt 01121-04881
1 x support 14017-38U00
2 x bolt 08156-61628
Vacuum Solenoid- GM Part Number
This Solenoid comes with and open end for Positive and Negative Contact Points, If you look inside the contact area you will see a + for Positive.
Originally posted by Deezo
ordered it from here for about $12.
Search the Online Catalog with the part # 1997152
http://www.allgmpartsonline.net
ordered it from here for about $12.
Search the Online Catalog with the part # 1997152
http://www.allgmpartsonline.net
Vacuum Canister - Nissan Part Number
Originally posted by Confused
22370-2Y500 Tank Assy
22370-2Y500 Tank Assy
05-20-2003, 06:11 AM
#6
Dyno plot says I have the most area under the Administrator curve
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,060
Power Curves for the USIM (US Intake Manifold) vs the MEVI with both cars being stock. Click on links for bigger pictures.
DETAILED WRITE-UP
Cliff Notes
Naturally Aspirated Setups
The MEVI gives a TON of extra power above 5500rpm, but LESS power (5-10 lb-ft less torque) below 5500rpm. The OEM 5spd gearing is not close enough by a long shot to keep you above 5500rpm as you go up through the gears (drops to as low as 3700rpm on the 1-2 shift), so you will not get full benefit of the MEVI until you get to higher speeds, or you have a raised rev-limiter (JWT ECU). In a 1/4 mile race between two otherwise stock Maximas, the USIM Maxima would actually be ahead to about 80 mph. Beyond that the MEVI equipped Maxima would be pulling like mad and probably catchup to about even by the 1/4 mile mark and then steadily walk away from there. The MEVI will still prove beneficial at the track even without a raised rev-limiter, but will just require much more aggressive high-rev launches (Honda-style). It's also highly recommended that you do other standard NA mods first such as Intake and Y-Pipe before adding the MEVI.
For Boosted Applications
If you are making so much power from a supercharger, turbo, stand-alone nitrous, or nitrous *with* S/C or turbo, you will have so much torque with the USIM that you may just be spinning your wheels most of the way down the track and losing time. In cases like this, the MEVI's lower torque in the low to mid-range may actually HELP your 1/4 mile times since you are traction-limited at this point anyways. The lower torque of the MEVI will help you hookup a bit sooner and will reduce excessive wheelspin. Additionally, once you're under way and fully hooked up, the MEVI top-end with boost is insane and allows you to cover ground in a hurry whereas the USIM is already gasping for breathe.
USIM = lose time with wheelspin due to excessive torque, then lose time once again when you finally hookup because the top-end isn't nearly as good.
MEVI = less torque minimizes wheelspin and helps you hookup sooner (less time lost), then once you hookup, superior top-end allows you to cover ground a lot faster.
MardiGrasMax's 11.91 @ 117.39 mph run was with none other than an S/C + Nitrous + MEVI. Oh and about a zillion other mods. Proof enough that this setup works for boosted guys.
CREDIT: Everybody that has messed with the MEVI, dynoed, and/or gone to the track with it.
DETAILED WRITE-UP
Cliff Notes
Naturally Aspirated Setups
The MEVI gives a TON of extra power above 5500rpm, but LESS power (5-10 lb-ft less torque) below 5500rpm. The OEM 5spd gearing is not close enough by a long shot to keep you above 5500rpm as you go up through the gears (drops to as low as 3700rpm on the 1-2 shift), so you will not get full benefit of the MEVI until you get to higher speeds, or you have a raised rev-limiter (JWT ECU). In a 1/4 mile race between two otherwise stock Maximas, the USIM Maxima would actually be ahead to about 80 mph. Beyond that the MEVI equipped Maxima would be pulling like mad and probably catchup to about even by the 1/4 mile mark and then steadily walk away from there. The MEVI will still prove beneficial at the track even without a raised rev-limiter, but will just require much more aggressive high-rev launches (Honda-style). It's also highly recommended that you do other standard NA mods first such as Intake and Y-Pipe before adding the MEVI.
For Boosted Applications
If you are making so much power from a supercharger, turbo, stand-alone nitrous, or nitrous *with* S/C or turbo, you will have so much torque with the USIM that you may just be spinning your wheels most of the way down the track and losing time. In cases like this, the MEVI's lower torque in the low to mid-range may actually HELP your 1/4 mile times since you are traction-limited at this point anyways. The lower torque of the MEVI will help you hookup a bit sooner and will reduce excessive wheelspin. Additionally, once you're under way and fully hooked up, the MEVI top-end with boost is insane and allows you to cover ground in a hurry whereas the USIM is already gasping for breathe.
USIM = lose time with wheelspin due to excessive torque, then lose time once again when you finally hookup because the top-end isn't nearly as good.
MEVI = less torque minimizes wheelspin and helps you hookup sooner (less time lost), then once you hookup, superior top-end allows you to cover ground a lot faster.
MardiGrasMax's 11.91 @ 117.39 mph run was with none other than an S/C + Nitrous + MEVI. Oh and about a zillion other mods.
Proof enough that this setup works for boosted guys. CREDIT: Everybody that has messed with the MEVI, dynoed, and/or gone to the track with it.
05-20-2003, 02:20 PM
#7
Most Perverted Member of the SE-L Club
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,512
1. thank you to everyone that responded to this thread, especially JeffesonM for getting all that info, and SteVTEC for (as usual) busting out the dyno-proof.
2.
Can you compensate for the Low-end loss with something that normailly increases low-end power, such as y-pipe/intake/catback?
3. And does all the info provided for the 5-speed apply to an auto as well, or are the gains +/- for an auto?
2.
The power you gain at the top-end is equal to the power you lose in the low/mid-range with the MEVI w/o a raised rev-limiter. So it's just a question of where you want the power.
3. And does all the info provided for the 5-speed apply to an auto as well, or are the gains +/- for an auto?
05-20-2003, 04:29 PM
#8
an you compensate for the Low-end loss with something that normailly increases low-end power, such as y-pipe/intake/catback?
does all the info provided for the 5-speed apply to an auto as well, or are the gains +/- for an auto?
06-16-2003, 02:13 PM
#10
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Re: Re: link
This is an accurate description of a dual-plane intake - however the MEVI is not a dual plane intake. The MEVI is a dual-plenum intake. The main difference is thet the MEVI's second set of butterfly valves do not flow more air than the stock type - they just open apatchway to the secondary plenum which utilises the Dynamic Supercharging effect.
For a description of Dynamic Supercharging check out the 4th post on this page;
4th Gen FAQ Page 6
For a description of Dynamic Supercharging check out the 4th post on this page;
4th Gen FAQ Page 6
Originally posted by fearthegecko
Okay, in a nutshell, you're adding more butterfly valves to your intake manifold that operate at a higher RPM.
The slightly more complicated explanation: (If i'm wrong about any of this, please someone correct me)You already have the valve at the throttle body that lets air into the intake manifold, well with the MEVI, you've got 3. When you drive your car at a higher RPM, there is more demand for air. Normally, you have to wait for the same "Stock" airflow to reach the engine. With the Mevi, when you reach your pre-selected RPM, the extra valves open to feed the need for air.
Okay, in a nutshell, you're adding more butterfly valves to your intake manifold that operate at a higher RPM.
The slightly more complicated explanation: (If i'm wrong about any of this, please someone correct me)You already have the valve at the throttle body that lets air into the intake manifold, well with the MEVI, you've got 3. When you drive your car at a higher RPM, there is more demand for air. Normally, you have to wait for the same "Stock" airflow to reach the engine. With the Mevi, when you reach your pre-selected RPM, the extra valves open to feed the need for air.
07-04-2003, 06:01 PM
#11
What you need to get the VI going
Vacuum Canister with built in check valve
22370-2Y500 Tank Assy
Order from Jerry Rome Nissan for about $20
Call 413-746-2617
GM Solenoid
Search the Online Catalog with the Part # 1997152
http://www.allgmpartsonline.net
Sells for about $12
Summit Racing RPM Switch
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D830449
22370-2Y500 Tank Assy
Order from Jerry Rome Nissan for about $20
Call 413-746-2617
GM Solenoid
Search the Online Catalog with the Part # 1997152
http://www.allgmpartsonline.net
Sells for about $12
Summit Racing RPM Switch
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D830449
07-05-2003, 09:07 PM
#12
1) Which part did you get for the GM solenoid. I'm assuming it's
Fuel system - Fuel induction - Turbo charger - Solenoid
SOLENOID, Syclone, Typhoon 1992 - 1993
There's several parts with the same part # depending on which car maker you choose.
2) Has anyone used the MSD rpm switch?
Even after a year, getting all the additional parts for the VI doesn't seem incredibly easy.
-hype
Fuel system - Fuel induction - Turbo charger - Solenoid
SOLENOID, Syclone, Typhoon 1992 - 1993
There's several parts with the same part # depending on which car maker you choose.
2) Has anyone used the MSD rpm switch?
Even after a year, getting all the additional parts for the VI doesn't seem incredibly easy.
-hype
07-23-2003, 05:35 AM
#13
Originally posted by xHypex
1) Which part did you get for the GM solenoid. I'm assuming it's
Fuel system - Fuel induction - Turbo charger - Solenoid
SOLENOID, Syclone, Typhoon 1992 - 1993
There's several parts with the same part # depending on which car maker you choose.
1) Which part did you get for the GM solenoid. I'm assuming it's
Fuel system - Fuel induction - Turbo charger - Solenoid
SOLENOID, Syclone, Typhoon 1992 - 1993
There's several parts with the same part # depending on which car maker you choose.
2) Has anyone used the MSD rpm switch?
Even after a year, getting all the additional parts for the VI doesn't seem incredibly easy.
-hype
Even after a year, getting all the additional parts for the VI doesn't seem incredibly easy.
-hype
09-03-2003, 09:59 PM
#19
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 73
mevi faq
Originally Posted by fearthegecko
Ok, all you maxima pros, i've got a question that even though it's been discussed countless times, has never really been answered:
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
And if that's so, then is it really worth it for 99 owners to get a MEVI?
If a JWT ECU needs to be used to get the full potential out of a MEVI, and there are no JWT ECUs for 99s, does that mean that 99 maximas with a MEVI will never get the full potential out of it?
And if that's so, then is it really worth it for 99 owners to get a MEVI?
did you know you can get an ecu from a 96 max, and jim wolf will make it compatible for your 99
09-09-2003, 07:20 AM
#21
Originally Posted by Scruit
Accorinding to Summit's tech dept, The Summit Racing RPM switch SUM-830449 does NOT have a Coil-Per-Cylinder mode, and is therefore useless for the MEVI.
09-09-2003, 02:07 PM
#22
U wanna try me young boy?
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
Summit Switch Configuration:
There are 5 wires on the summit switch;
- Red (Power)
- Black (ground)
1) I installed a male AND a female spade connector on the end of the red wire, about 1" apart. Same with the black wire.
2) I unplugged the cig lighter wiring harness from the the cig lighter (under the shifter console) and plugged the red wire male connector into the cig lighter harness power, and plugged the red wire female into the cig lighter itself. I also plugged the black wire male connector into the cig lighter harness ground and plugged the black wire female connector on the black wire into the cig lighter ground.
This effectively allowed me to safely tap a switched, fused power source fro the RPM switch.
- White (RPM Input)
3) I removed the small black trim panel from the area of the front passenger's left foot. Behind here is the main ECU harness. I removed the smoked plastic cover and located the white/green wire. I tapped it using a 3M wire tap for now. This is not an ideal way of tapping the wire, so I will come back in and put a better connector later.
- Yellow (Normally Open Circuit activate)
4) I tapped the summit switch's red power wire again so I could power the vacuum colenoid for the VI. I ran two wires (a red one which was connected to the summit's red wire, and a yellow wire which was connected to the summit's yellow wire) through the firewall (stuck a knitting needle through the side of the grommet for the main wiring harness where it passes through the firewall up under the glove box.) The red wire was hooked up to the solenoid's positive, and the yellow wire was hooked to the solenoid's ground.
- Gray (Normally Closed Circuit activate) - NOT USED
5) The summit switch was set to 3400rpm. THIS TRANSLATES TO %$))RPM ON MY CAR!!! Do this by turning off all the DIP switches, then turning on 3000 on the thousands switch and 0400 on the hundreds switch.
6) Test - The summit switch has two LEDS, a red and a green. The red LED turns on when the switch is powered up. The green LED turns on when you reach the selected RPM. Test witht he hood open sitting in the driver's seat - rev slowly up to 5400rpm and watch the solenoid to make sure it clicks over.
And then you're done. Enjoy.
There are 5 wires on the summit switch;
- Red (Power)
- Black (ground)
1) I installed a male AND a female spade connector on the end of the red wire, about 1" apart. Same with the black wire.
2) I unplugged the cig lighter wiring harness from the the cig lighter (under the shifter console) and plugged the red wire male connector into the cig lighter harness power, and plugged the red wire female into the cig lighter itself. I also plugged the black wire male connector into the cig lighter harness ground and plugged the black wire female connector on the black wire into the cig lighter ground.
This effectively allowed me to safely tap a switched, fused power source fro the RPM switch.
- White (RPM Input)
3) I removed the small black trim panel from the area of the front passenger's left foot. Behind here is the main ECU harness. I removed the smoked plastic cover and located the white/green wire. I tapped it using a 3M wire tap for now. This is not an ideal way of tapping the wire, so I will come back in and put a better connector later.
- Yellow (Normally Open Circuit activate)
4) I tapped the summit switch's red power wire again so I could power the vacuum colenoid for the VI. I ran two wires (a red one which was connected to the summit's red wire, and a yellow wire which was connected to the summit's yellow wire) through the firewall (stuck a knitting needle through the side of the grommet for the main wiring harness where it passes through the firewall up under the glove box.) The red wire was hooked up to the solenoid's positive, and the yellow wire was hooked to the solenoid's ground.
- Gray (Normally Closed Circuit activate) - NOT USED
5) The summit switch was set to 3400rpm. THIS TRANSLATES TO %$))RPM ON MY CAR!!! Do this by turning off all the DIP switches, then turning on 3000 on the thousands switch and 0400 on the hundreds switch.
6) Test - The summit switch has two LEDS, a red and a green. The red LED turns on when the switch is powered up. The green LED turns on when you reach the selected RPM. Test witht he hood open sitting in the driver's seat - rev slowly up to 5400rpm and watch the solenoid to make sure it clicks over.
And then you're done. Enjoy.
09-30-2003, 10:27 AM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 17
Originally Posted by fearthegecko
i'd like to add that courtesy nissan is now selling the mevi
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...e=A32-MANIFOLD
Steve
10-02-2003, 12:26 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 454
If you need a Vacuum switch for your VI you can get them off of a V6 camary or a 4runner. I'm sure they are on other toyota cars but these are the ones that I am 100% positive about. Also I can get a few for people if you will email me and let me know, you can make me an offer anything resonable will not be refused.
email Guitarplr_180@msn.com
email Guitarplr_180@msn.com
12-02-2003, 11:11 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 546
Originally Posted by MaxedOutOfCash
Additional parts will be required, that will not be provided by Courtesy Nissan.
Any place i can buy everything i need at once ? or do i have to hunt them down seperetly? i really dont want to wait 8 months on a GD/ reciving form overseas
Thanks.
12-02-2003, 11:35 AM
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 17
Here is an updated link to what you get when you buy from us...
http://tinyurl.com/xeos
Steve
http://tinyurl.com/xeos
Steve
Originally Posted by Bad97MaxSE
What is not included with buying from courtesy nissan? besides the rpm switch,vac can. ect.
Any place i can buy everything i need at once ? or do i have to hunt them down seperetly? i really dont want to wait 8 months on a GD/ reciving form overseas
Thanks.
Any place i can buy everything i need at once ? or do i have to hunt them down seperetly? i really dont want to wait 8 months on a GD/ reciving form overseas
Thanks.
12-11-2003, 03:22 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Bad97MaxSE
What are my Options in switchs ? summit sounds like the best , harlen has to much stuff wrong wioth it ....msd make one with 200rpm incroments ?
Options it vaccum canister ? Not plastic ?
Options it vaccum canister ? Not plastic ?
07-12-2004, 02:06 PM
#34
Originally Posted by IwANnAMaX96
Does anyone have the instructions for adjusting the VI activation point with the harlan? Harlan's website doesn't have it up anymore.
08-25-2004, 08:36 AM
#36
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
I suggest you WELD the bufferfly screws.
I used Loctite when installing them and one still came loose, which my engine promptly digested.
I used Loctite when installing them and one still came loose, which my engine promptly digested.
08-25-2004, 09:38 AM
#37
Honestly I don't remember, it was a long, long time ago. On the new engine I had them welded for the peace of mind. I won't be able to disassemble the butterfly valves anymore, but I couldn't really think of why I'd need to and either way it's cheaper to replace the MEVI than the engine.
09-02-2004, 07:02 AM
#39
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Honestly I don't remember, it was a long, long time ago. On the new engine I had them welded for the peace of mind. I won't be able to disassemble the butterfly valves anymore, but I couldn't really think of why I'd need to and either way it's cheaper to replace the MEVI than the engine.
I had the screws welded yesterday too. FOR PEACE OF MIND Follow JeffesonM's advice and WELD THE BUTTERFLY SCREWS