Fluids and LubricantsMotor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.
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How important is it that I use a Nissan brand filter only in a 4th gen? Because I keep hearing it can cause all sorts of problems if you don't with your timing chain. But no real valid commentary towards it. I used to use stricly OEM filter from the dealer, then for the last 4 oil changes I let the mechanic throw in whatever oil filter he uses. Now, my timing chain is screwed and bye bye 95SE because it doesn't warrant a swap. Coincidence?
Only use a Nissan filter with a 4th gen? That makes no sense, what is the logic behind this? I have a 4th gen and Im going to switch to mobile 1 filter and full synthetic at 146,000 miles.
Treat your maxima like you do to your wife or GF with my respect to all the previous....At around 10k miles switch to synthetic Amsoil 0w30 (buy from talkinghorse here in the forums or online from amsoil.com)if you live in cold weather or 5w30 if not...that's all..And use Mobil 1 filters .. Change your oil by yourself or go to your mech buddy shop (backyard mechanics) and he would chanrge you 10-20$ for the most..Don't go to the stealerghip...
Hope this helps..
Just got a 2001 Nissan Maxima GLE, 98k miles on it. Guy told me he has been using synthetic oil. Shall I continue using it? Or do I change to normal oil?
i remember reading somewhere in this thread that wix filters were good, i just used my last one today, has anything changed?
How about purolator?
I've been using purolator one oil filters for some time now. I've always thought them to be good and readily available. i know over time companies change, but can someone verify?
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
Thanks,
Bruno
What are your high temperatures during the day? About how many miles a day do you drive? What is the mileage of your maxima?
forgot to add, the car has 150,000 miles on it.. if regular oil was used, is it ok to switch to synthetic now, or should i keep using regular?
I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
I agree w/ this post. Unless you plan to keep your car from day 1 to about 100K in miles, I wouldn't stress it. Remember, you can't fight father time. Aged seals = aged seals.
Change your oil at the stated intervals and you should be fine. Save the extra penny on fixing seals.!
I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
This is certainly extreme and not needed. You will be safe mixing any good quality motor oil with any other good quality motor oil.
When you drain your oil sump and change your filter you still have something less than a quart of oil in the bottom of the sump. That will not be a problem with any quality motor oil you choose to put in your engine after the drain.
If you Max has 150 K miles on her, I would be reluctant to chang to synthetic.
Synthetic has the ability to find the smallest cracks and get through them - thus you are likely to start bruning more oil than you would with regular dino oil.
Finally, always remember to thoroughy shake each bottle of motor oil before you install it. This more thoroughly mixes the additives, which tend to settle to the bottom over time.
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Last edited by SilverMax_04; 02-01-2012 at 11:21 PM.
This is certainly extreme and not needed. You will be safe mixing any good quality motor oil with any other good quality motor oil.
When you drain your oil sump and change your filter you still have something less than a quart of oil in the bottom of the sump. That will not be a problem with any quality motor oil you choose to put in your engine after the drain.
If you Max has 150 K miles on her, I would be reluctant to change to synthetic.
Synthetic has the ability to find the smallest cracks and get through them - thus you are likely to start burning more oil than you would with regular dino oil.
Finally, always remember to thoroughly shake each bottle of motor oil before you install it. This more thoroughly mixes the additives, which tend to settle to the bottom over time.
If you think the price of changing oils is excessive. It certainly doesn't hurt anything. Depending on where you buy your oil and assuming you can change it yourself, we're talking $20-30. Hardly excessive. Now, If I had recommended changing the oil weekly............
It is excessive because it is dumb. It is gross overkill. Even changing motor oil ever 3 K miles is a little too much, but this other is extreme.
The reason you no longer need to change motor oil every 3 K miles is that the Federal Government mandated that all oil companies substantially reduce the sulfur content of gasoline - this happened about 5 years ago.
But the motor oil change industry has not gotten the word out that with substantially reduced sulfur in gasoline, the motor oil in your car does not become acidic as quickly as when gasoline contained higher levels of sulfur. It was the need to eliminate the acid that formed in car motor oil in these earlier years that required the oil change at about 3 K miles. (I did change the original motor oil that came in my Max when she was new at about 3 K miles. But after than, not that soon after that initial change.)
With sulfur almost removed from the scene, probably the biggest culprit that now degrades motor oil in an engine is dirt. So if you drive the dirt roads frequently, you may want to continue to change oil more frequently. My Nissan Owners Manual said that I could go up to 7.5 K miles before changing oil. Once I was out of warranty, I then went to 10K miles (but I use Synthetic). There is enough for us to spend our limited money on without wasting it on an unnecessary oil change.
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Last edited by SilverMax_04; 02-04-2012 at 12:00 AM.
I love oil threads. Bob the oil guy will tell you more than you could ever hope to know about oil and such. I've always and will continue to use Shell Rotella T synthetic in my motorcycle (yes with a purolator honda civic oil filter too---oh no!) and my cars. Why? Bc it's just as effective as the big name oils (Mobil 1, Repsol for the bikes etc) and costs 1/2 to 1/3 less.
I also go 10k miles between oil changes; anything else absent mitigating circumstances is a waste. I change the m/c oil yearly since it only gets 6k a year if that.
Since when is Shell not a major brand of motor oil? It most certainly is.
I agree with you on the 10 K mile OCI (oil change interval). The lab keeps telling me that I can go even further on my synthetic motor oil, but I believe that even the best oil filters are only good for about 10K miles.
I purchased my 5th gen with 166,xxx+ miles on it, the owner showed me a full oil service history since day 1 of the car. He used nothing else but Mobile 1 oil and mobile 1 filter changed every 10,000... after I saw that I pulled my cash from my pocked and bought the car... Currently I have 185,xxx+ and I am still continuing the same oil and filter intervals... No oil consumption what so ever... and sometimes I do drive the car hard... Mobile 1 all the way... Last week Autozone had a deal on a Mobile 1 oil and Filter for $35.
Last edited by L_U_D_I_AMaxima; 02-05-2012 at 12:15 PM.
Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
No, but it appears they're adopting some of the technology that AMSOIL uses in their Ea oil filters...and they've been on the market for several years. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2192.pdf I sell a lot of these filters to our members and people are very pleased with the performance and value.
The new Purolator filters are being marketed for synthetic oil because they're designed for longer service intervals...they're more efficient, they have greater capacity, and the synthetic filtering medium won't break down like a paper element will. You can use these filters with petroleum oil, but the cost might be kind of high when changed at traditional intervals...Purolator offers the standard filter and the Pure One to address that market.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-25-2012 at 06:13 PM.
No, but it appears they're adopting some of the technology that AMSOIL uses in their Ea oil filters...and they've been on the market for several years. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2192.pdf I sell a lot of these filters to our members and people are very pleased with the performance and value.
The new Purolator filters are being marketed for synthetic oil because they're designed for longer service intervals...they're more efficient, they have greater capacity, and the synthetic filtering medium won't break down like a paper element will. You can use these filters with petroleum oil, but the cost might be kind of high when changed at traditional intervals...Purolator offers the standard filter and the Pure One to address that market.
Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
I saw the Purolator Synthetic oil filter for $9.xx at the local Advanced auto parts. However bought the pureone PL14610 for $5 and married it with Mobil 1 Extended performance Full Synthetic 5W30 oil. (my car is 03 SE 6spd with 145k miles on it)
The oil in the engine was same kind and after 5000 miles, it was giving a brief clatter @ startup. It is momentary when the rpm hits 2k while cranking. Surprisingly, this disappeared after the oil change. When i start the car now, the rpm does not cross 1300 and idles at 1100-1200 mark. So satisfied.
Lets see if the filter holds up to another 5000 miles. I am hopeful that it will from all the reviews i read about 14610.
I saw the Purolator Synthetic oil filter for $9.xx at the local Advanced auto parts. However bought the pureone PL14610 for $5 and married it with Mobil 1 Extended performance Full Synthetic 5W30 oil. (my car is 03 SE 6spd with 145k miles on it)
The oil in the engine was same kind and after 5000 miles, it was giving a brief clatter @ startup. It is momentary when the rpm hits 2k while cranking. Surprisingly, this disappeared after the oil change. When i start the car now, the rpm does not cross 1300 and idles at 1100-1200 mark. So satisfied.
Lets see if the filter holds up to another 5000 miles. I am hopeful that it will from all the reviews i read about 14610.
Thanks for the heads up, I purchased a Mobil1 oil filter this time but will look for the Purolator synthetic oil filter next time. I've used the PL14610 w/Mobil 1 EP many times. Just curious why you passed on the Purolator synthetic filter?
Thanks for the heads up, I purchased a Mobil1 oil filter this time but will look for the Purolator synthetic oil filter next time. I've used the PL14610 w/Mobil 1 EP many times. Just curious why you passed on the Purolator synthetic filter?
I am planning to do the next oil change after 5k miles. So no point using a filter that is good for 10k. why kill a mosquito with a cannon? right?!!!
Howcome u're using the EP oil and changing after just 5k miles?
Hello Shobuddy,
no special reason to use ep oil. Its just that my friend (the previous owner of this car) used EP and I did not want to change it. But suggestions are welcome.
I will consider a change for my next oil change if I get some good advice.
Thanks.
Hello Shobuddy,
no special reason to use ep oil. Its just that my friend (the previous owner of this car) used EP and I did not want to change it. But suggestions are welcome.
I will consider a change for my next oil change if I get some good advice.
Thanks.
In reading the treads here a lot of people are using the 9e Nissan filter. When I worked at a Nissan dealership we only would put a Nissan 65 filter on any 3.5 engine no matter the car.The 9e filter were used in the trucks with a 3.1'3.3'4.0'5.6 engine. The 3.5 engines were made to run the 65 filter. I had done my changes at the shop were we used a synthetic blend oil. The type one i don't know. This time i put the Pennzoil conv. oil and engine does not like it. I am switching to the Pennzoil plat. oil instead. My main concern is my vg 3.0 has 222,620 miles on the engine.
....At around 10k miles switch to synthetic Amsoil 0w30 (buy from talkinghorse here in the forums or online from amsoil.com)if you live in cold weather or 5w30 if not...that's all..And use Mobil 1 filters .. Change your oil by yourself or go to your mech buddy shop (backyard mechanics) and he would chanrge you 10-20$ for the most..Don't go to the stealerghip...
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