Cost to clean EGR buildup (CEL 0302)?
#1
Cost to clean EGR buildup (CEL 0302)?
After searching the forum, I've decided that I'd rather pay a mechanic to fix my CEL 0302, which I'm presuming will be cleaning the small EGR tube that I've read so much about.
Does anyone know what a reasonable price for the work should be from the mechanic? Also, should I ask him to clean it or replace it (i.e. will it cost me cheaper to replace it than pay the labor for cleaning it)?
Thanks!
Edit: My local dealership wants $500
Does anyone know what a reasonable price for the work should be from the mechanic? Also, should I ask him to clean it or replace it (i.e. will it cost me cheaper to replace it than pay the labor for cleaning it)?
Thanks!
Edit: My local dealership wants $500
Last edited by Obespalov; 06-17-2009 at 01:26 PM.
#2
actually, the dealer has a service that will clean out the egr tube for a cheap price from what i remember. i replaced mine cause i did'nt know and spent a little over 300.00 to do it. there is a write-up on how to do this yourself somewhere in the stickies.
#3
If you search you can find that it can be cleaned by yourself for cheap. All you need to do is remove the EGR (I suggest removing the IAVC and TB as well), some carb cleaner, and a tooth brush to get all the gunk off.
#5
I don't change my oil either. Anyway, I can't tell you how much a shop should or is going to charge. They're gonna charge you whatever they want. I suggest that you do some research on how to clean the EGR etc. or be prepared to pay.
#6
Someone must have gotten lazy on this board and paid someone to do it? Otherwise, would you have a link to the "official" writeup for this job? Maybe I can get my dad to work on it with me. I've seen a scattershot of pics and partial write ups from my search but haven't seen one definitive THIS IS THE WAY TO DO IT type write up. Also, can I assume my '96 I30 will have the same setup?
#7
Did you search for a write-up? Here's a couple helpful links from my first page of hits (the keywords in my query were clean, EGR, & tube):
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...alve-tube.html
If you can reach the nuts that secure the EGR guide tube, it is a pretty easy job. Just a matter of getting your wrench behind the intake plenum.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-removal.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...alve-tube.html
If you can reach the nuts that secure the EGR guide tube, it is a pretty easy job. Just a matter of getting your wrench behind the intake plenum.
#8
This job is too involved for somebody with no mechanical skills. The bottom bolts on the guide tube are difficult to reach, even with the entire intake manifold collector and throttle body removed.
#9
i can tell you its more than 1.3 hours even if you know what your doing. like i said, the dealer has a service that isnt too expensive and it takes a little over an hour.
#10
Plus, just a word of warning - While the tube might need to be cleaned, it might not resolve your EGR problem. I kept getting the DTC 32, even after having the tube cleaned (and with over 190K miles, mine was virtually plugged solid). Changing the EGR & Canister control solenoid valve (a little over $90 from the dealer and VERY easy to change) took care of my DTC 32. This solenoid is way easier to replace than either the EGR or the EGRC-BPT valves.
#11
My dealer charged $300 to do this. That included all of the new gaskets and cleaning the EGR. They had to remove the intake manifold and a bunch of other stuff. I felt the difference as soon as I pulled out the lot
#13
Check on this website or search for egr parts, look for parts # 14120G and 14120GA for the guide tube gaskets.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1785_1797.html
Here is instruction I posted on another website:
If you don't take out the EGR Guide Tube (part # 14713) to clean, then it will likely happen again as my case after one year. Spraying with a throttle body cleaner is not enough. Some other parts need to be removed before the guide tube can be accessed and removed easily such as 1) EGR sensor, 2) Air filter housing and MAF box, 3) some coolant tubes, 4) one end of EGR tube that connects to the EGR Valve. Make sure to keep all bolts and nuts in order.
1) Remove the guide tube by removing bolts part # 01826-821E and 08911-1081A. It is hard but can be taken out by twisting the guide tube at the right movement and right angle, then at a same time pushing down the tube (part# 14120). You don't need to remove the EGR Valve (#14710). Purchase two new gaskets (#14120G, #14120GA).
2) You can use cloth hanger to clean but I suggest to use a metal tube brush. The first time I cleaned without removing the sensor. So, it lasted only 20k-30k miles. This time, I removed the sensor which has wire connects to the guide tube. I found a lot of carbon built-in there too. I hope this time it will be lasted for 100k and plus.
Tube has been cleaned but not enough.
More carbon found after unscrewed the sensor tip.
These metal brush were bought at my local Harbor Freight store
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1785_1797.html
Here is instruction I posted on another website:
If you don't take out the EGR Guide Tube (part # 14713) to clean, then it will likely happen again as my case after one year. Spraying with a throttle body cleaner is not enough. Some other parts need to be removed before the guide tube can be accessed and removed easily such as 1) EGR sensor, 2) Air filter housing and MAF box, 3) some coolant tubes, 4) one end of EGR tube that connects to the EGR Valve. Make sure to keep all bolts and nuts in order.
1) Remove the guide tube by removing bolts part # 01826-821E and 08911-1081A. It is hard but can be taken out by twisting the guide tube at the right movement and right angle, then at a same time pushing down the tube (part# 14120). You don't need to remove the EGR Valve (#14710). Purchase two new gaskets (#14120G, #14120GA).
2) You can use cloth hanger to clean but I suggest to use a metal tube brush. The first time I cleaned without removing the sensor. So, it lasted only 20k-30k miles. This time, I removed the sensor which has wire connects to the guide tube. I found a lot of carbon built-in there too. I hope this time it will be lasted for 100k and plus.
Tube has been cleaned but not enough.
More carbon found after unscrewed the sensor tip.
These metal brush were bought at my local Harbor Freight store
Last edited by hungtdao; 04-11-2012 at 05:39 PM.
#15
Check on this website or search for egr parts, look for parts # 14120G and 14120GA for the guide tube gaskets.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1785_1797.html
Here is instruction I posted on another website:
If you don't take out the EGR Guide Tube (part # 14713) to clean, then it will likely happen again as my case after one year. Spraying with a carburator cleaner is not engough. So, I did removed the guide tube. It was tough but I finally got it out by twisting the guide tube at the right movement and right angle, then at a same time pushing down the tube (part# 14120). I did not remove the EGR Valve (#14710) this time.
I bought two gaskets (#14120G, #14120GA).
Some other parts need to be removed before the guide tube can be accessed and removed easily such as 1) EGR sensor, 2) Air filter housing and MAF box, 3) some coolant tubes, 4) one end of EGR tube that connects to the EGR Valve. Make sure to keep all bolts and nuts in order. After I successfully got the guide tube out, I used cloth hanging line then clean inside the tube with a spraying carburator cleaner. I found a lot of carbon built in-side the tube. So, clean with the tube taken out is a whole better and a must. Also spraying on areas that connect to the tube ends before you put it back. Now my car is running again without Service Engine Soon light on.
It has been lasted for about 30k miles, now the code has come back. This time, I will buy a long reflexible brush (metal type) stick to clean it instead of using a cloth hanger.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1785_1797.html
Here is instruction I posted on another website:
If you don't take out the EGR Guide Tube (part # 14713) to clean, then it will likely happen again as my case after one year. Spraying with a carburator cleaner is not engough. So, I did removed the guide tube. It was tough but I finally got it out by twisting the guide tube at the right movement and right angle, then at a same time pushing down the tube (part# 14120). I did not remove the EGR Valve (#14710) this time.
I bought two gaskets (#14120G, #14120GA).
Some other parts need to be removed before the guide tube can be accessed and removed easily such as 1) EGR sensor, 2) Air filter housing and MAF box, 3) some coolant tubes, 4) one end of EGR tube that connects to the EGR Valve. Make sure to keep all bolts and nuts in order. After I successfully got the guide tube out, I used cloth hanging line then clean inside the tube with a spraying carburator cleaner. I found a lot of carbon built in-side the tube. So, clean with the tube taken out is a whole better and a must. Also spraying on areas that connect to the tube ends before you put it back. Now my car is running again without Service Engine Soon light on.
It has been lasted for about 30k miles, now the code has come back. This time, I will buy a long reflexible brush (metal type) stick to clean it instead of using a cloth hanger.
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