is there a way to bypass the abs sensor?
#1
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is there a way to bypass the abs sensor?
so i was changing out my control arms. I disconnected the driver side abs sensor without a problem. Continued with the passenger side and i broke the abs sensor. I'm going to replace the sensor, but is there a way i can bypass it so it doesn't show up on my dash? Yes, there is a reason why i need it NOT to show up since the month is coming near, but i'm not sure if it is wise to post it :hint hint: Until i can get the new part, which will most likely be after this month is over, i want to make sure i wont have a problem with my dash having the abs sensor on. I just need a quick fix for like 5 days. If someone is able to sell me the sensor for cheap and have it before the end of the month, i won't need to bypass the sensor.
#2
so i was changing out my control arms. I disconnected the driver side abs sensor without a problem. Continued with the passenger side and i broke the abs sensor. I'm going to replace the sensor, but is there a way i can bypass it so it doesn't show up on my dash? Yes, there is a reason why i need it NOT to show up since the month is coming near, but i'm not sure if it is wise to post it :hint hint: Until i can get the new part, which will most likely be after this month is over, i want to make sure i wont have a problem with my dash having the abs sensor on. I just need a quick fix for like 5 days. If someone is able to sell me the sensor for cheap and have it before the end of the month, i won't need to bypass the sensor.
#4
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ajm, what page is this? i was looking in the brake and eletrical section, didn't see anything.
Cashoit, i believe it throws a code in the obd2. But if the bulb is on, i won't pass inspection...
Cashoit, i believe it throws a code in the obd2. But if the bulb is on, i won't pass inspection...
#8
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i was thinking about pulling the bulb, but i think it'll still throw a code when it plugs into the abs sensor.....or am i wrong?
#10
Alternatively, maybe the ABS control unit could be unplugged? Not every fourth gen had/has ABS. While the ABS control unit itself may throw an OBDII code, it does not appear to be connected to the ECU in such a way that would cause the ECU to throw a code if it cannot communicate with the ABS controller. The ABS control unit can't throw codes if it has no power.
#12
Hi.
I just went through the same thing, though it was my rear sensors.
I had to totally pry and destroy the sensors to remove them. Totally rusted.
I just removed the sensors. I disconnected and unplugged the sensor+wire+connector assembly (the thing you are contemplating replacing) from the wire+connector protruding from the body.
(I sprayed silicone lube into the now open car-side connector, in case I ever decide to use it again, which I won't. Then I stuffed the wire+connector into a nearby hole in the frame to hide it and keep it relatively safe.)
So, at this point there are no ABS sensors in the rear.
Then, I pulled the ABS fuse (I think - might be confusing this step with my Suburban...).
Finally, I pulled the cluster and removed these bulbs: ABS, TCS, SLIP.
I considered removing switch that turns off TCS/SLIP control, but ended up leaving it.
Results:
- No idiot lights and no OBD2 codes.
- Passed inspection in MA.
- No stupid ABS. (ABS is almost as dumb as sonar-cruise-control.)
Notes:
- As stated, I am in MA. This means two things: (1) Lots of road salt to destroy ABS sensors; (2) Inspection does not require ABS on this car, or at least didn't check for it.
- This was a '99 GLE.
- My other '99, an SE, has no ABS. So, it was not universal back in '99. This could be why they didn't check for it or require it, I don't know.
I just went through the same thing, though it was my rear sensors.
I had to totally pry and destroy the sensors to remove them. Totally rusted.
I just removed the sensors. I disconnected and unplugged the sensor+wire+connector assembly (the thing you are contemplating replacing) from the wire+connector protruding from the body.
(I sprayed silicone lube into the now open car-side connector, in case I ever decide to use it again, which I won't. Then I stuffed the wire+connector into a nearby hole in the frame to hide it and keep it relatively safe.)
So, at this point there are no ABS sensors in the rear.
Then, I pulled the ABS fuse (I think - might be confusing this step with my Suburban...).
Finally, I pulled the cluster and removed these bulbs: ABS, TCS, SLIP.
I considered removing switch that turns off TCS/SLIP control, but ended up leaving it.
Results:
- No idiot lights and no OBD2 codes.
- Passed inspection in MA.
- No stupid ABS. (ABS is almost as dumb as sonar-cruise-control.)
Notes:
- As stated, I am in MA. This means two things: (1) Lots of road salt to destroy ABS sensors; (2) Inspection does not require ABS on this car, or at least didn't check for it.
- This was a '99 GLE.
- My other '99, an SE, has no ABS. So, it was not universal back in '99. This could be why they didn't check for it or require it, I don't know.
#13
Yeah, ABS is way overrated. Who needs to steer when you're braking anyway. If your brakes aren't enough there's always cars, guardrails, curbs, pedestrians, and cliffs that can stop you.
On 2nd thought - cliffs don't actually stop you do they.
On 2nd thought - cliffs don't actually stop you do they.
#14
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Mikey, i'm going to scan for codes to see if my obd2 picks up the code. Forgot to do it, i'll do it when i get back to the car (nice to have a scanner handy).
BUT!!!! i went to radioshack, bought 1k resistors...stuck it in place of the sensor. viola!!!! abs light gone!!! but then, just as suspected....abs light came on once i drove 20 ft or so. i had thought, please, please let it be that the resistor fell off. nope, no dice. Tried to remove the resistor and put it back on. same thing, light is still on. at this point, resistor does trick the car to see that a sensor is there, but does not give its output that it needs. If all fails, i'm gonna try to see if i can rig the right abs connector to read from the left connector as well. i will have to go back into the fsm and make sure that i can putting them in parallel and not in series so i can get a correct reading...not sure if this will 100% work..
But ajm and asand, thanks for your inputs. i might have to bite the bullet and wait till the sensor comes in and risk getting tickets for not having inspection and registration. But i did get my wheels aligned and woot!!! car feels awesome.
BUT!!!! i went to radioshack, bought 1k resistors...stuck it in place of the sensor. viola!!!! abs light gone!!! but then, just as suspected....abs light came on once i drove 20 ft or so. i had thought, please, please let it be that the resistor fell off. nope, no dice. Tried to remove the resistor and put it back on. same thing, light is still on. at this point, resistor does trick the car to see that a sensor is there, but does not give its output that it needs. If all fails, i'm gonna try to see if i can rig the right abs connector to read from the left connector as well. i will have to go back into the fsm and make sure that i can putting them in parallel and not in series so i can get a correct reading...not sure if this will 100% work..
But ajm and asand, thanks for your inputs. i might have to bite the bullet and wait till the sensor comes in and risk getting tickets for not having inspection and registration. But i did get my wheels aligned and woot!!! car feels awesome.
#15
If all fails, i'm gonna try to see if i can rig the right abs connector to read from the left connector as well
I looked at the FSM and it looks like it would be the red wire from the right sensor and the white wire from the left sensor that would need to be connected. If it doesn't work right out of the chute then you may need another resistor between the two wires.
#17
I don't know if connecting the sensor to the right and left front wheel speed inputs is a great idea. The ABS control unit outputs a voltage to the sensors to check and see if they are connected. There is a chance that you could damage the control unit by connecting those wires together. Maybe you could check the voltage coming from the controller and determine it's polarity, and then you could connect positive to positive and negative to negative. You probably would not need an extra resistor if you did this. The parallel voltages would not be additive, and each input would still see a single 800 to 1200 ohm sensor.
Above I recommend just unplugging the ABS controller temporarily to pass inspection. Is that not an option for you?
#18
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Did you check the first post?
I don't know if connecting the sensor to the right and left front wheel speed inputs is a great idea. The ABS control unit outputs a voltage to the sensors to check and see if they are connected. There is a chance that you could damage the control unit by connecting those wires together. Maybe you could check the voltage coming from the controller and determine it's polarity, and then you could connect positive to positive and negative to negative. You probably would not need an extra resistor if you did this. The parallel voltages would not be additive, and each input would still see a single 800 to 1200 ohm sensor.
Above I recommend just unplugging the ABS controller temporarily to pass inspection. Is that not an option for you?
I don't know if connecting the sensor to the right and left front wheel speed inputs is a great idea. The ABS control unit outputs a voltage to the sensors to check and see if they are connected. There is a chance that you could damage the control unit by connecting those wires together. Maybe you could check the voltage coming from the controller and determine it's polarity, and then you could connect positive to positive and negative to negative. You probably would not need an extra resistor if you did this. The parallel voltages would not be additive, and each input would still see a single 800 to 1200 ohm sensor.
Above I recommend just unplugging the ABS controller temporarily to pass inspection. Is that not an option for you?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lots-pics.html
Last edited by ImmaSquashYou; 07-29-2010 at 10:37 AM.
#19
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i am replacing the sensor. Part isn't coming in till next week. My inspection runs out end of july along with registration. I'm ok with bad safety inspection cause i can just get failed and run around for a week with a failed sticker. but my registration also runs out. i cannot get registration without emissions inspection. i don't believe i will pass emissions if i have an abs light on the dash (dont' ask me why, its va). Hence, my frantic need of trying to get the bulb to turn off. Could i have gotten the part overnighted from somewhere else? sure, but it probably would have cost me $250 instead of the $35. and yes, i believe that you posted a long time ago that you got an abs sensor from napa for $60, i called napa. They do not stock the item and is $178. so yes, i've done my reasearch. the only place the part is cheap is on ebay. anywhere else calls for $120+.
Last edited by ImmaSquashYou; 07-29-2010 at 11:08 AM.
#20
Response to 96i30azn:
Don't drive like a dope and you probably won't need the ABS. Besides, it's well established that a competent driver can stop the non-abs car faster than the same car equipped with abs. Read the road tests.
Also, I contend that the spurious abs activation associated with sensor failure can be WAY more dangerous. This actually happened (in my Suburban): I approached the end of my driveway going about 4 mph (with kids on board). ABS kicked in, and I glided into the street in slow motion at about 2 mph with absolutely no way to stop. If a truck had been coming we'd be dead.
(The cause of the problem is well understood. Rust lifts the ABS sensor away from the cogs it detects, and this can result in a false slip detection.)
No thanks. I'd rather rely on my brain than an unreliable "safety" system. Hey, maybe that explains the difference between our takes on ABS.
Don't drive like a dope and you probably won't need the ABS. Besides, it's well established that a competent driver can stop the non-abs car faster than the same car equipped with abs. Read the road tests.
Also, I contend that the spurious abs activation associated with sensor failure can be WAY more dangerous. This actually happened (in my Suburban): I approached the end of my driveway going about 4 mph (with kids on board). ABS kicked in, and I glided into the street in slow motion at about 2 mph with absolutely no way to stop. If a truck had been coming we'd be dead.
(The cause of the problem is well understood. Rust lifts the ABS sensor away from the cogs it detects, and this can result in a false slip detection.)
No thanks. I'd rather rely on my brain than an unreliable "safety" system. Hey, maybe that explains the difference between our takes on ABS.
Last edited by mikey66; 08-09-2010 at 11:30 AM.
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