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This howto is for the quick and easy task of removing the gauge cluster. Replacing bulbs, tightening up the tach or speedo screws, tapping into an easily accessible tach signal, swapping clusters, whatever.
Most seem to remove the steering column trim when doing this. It does make it a bit easier, but it also takes a lot longer, so I don't bother. The bezel will flex a fair amount, so as long as you don't bend the damn thing in half, it'll be fine.
This whole process shouldn't take but 10 minutes, if that.
As if you didn't know already, here's the area we're going to be working in:
You'll need to locate the two screws, located at the top of the gauge cluster bezel.
They're indicated by circles in the photo below:
Removing the left side screw:
Removing the right side screw:
Now the bezel will have 4 clips holding it in place along the bottom, shown here (reverse side shown):
You'll need to pull sharply on the bottom of the bezel to release all of these clips. Some may remain in the dash, or fall off and disappear.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Good job. I'm always scared of breaking the bezel, as it's a bitcch to get out (as you know). I ALWAYS remove the top portion of the steering column first to give me that extra 1/4" of space as I walk out the bezel. Couple of extra steps, but worth it IMO. Plus, I don't have to worry about scratching it up.
I also don't remove the switches ahead of time with a small flathead screwdriver as you have shown, as I don't want little dents/indentations in my bezel or switches from prying. I pull the bezel, walk it out a little, then disconnect the plugs from behind, then finish removing the bezel entirely with the switches intact.
6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other, same end result. I just like to take the extra steps to ensure nothing gets damaged/scratched along the way.
Again, nice and clear writeup. I'm sure it will come in very handy for many orgers.
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99 Max SE 5 spd, SC'd, MEVI, Cattman Headers, LED tails, R34's with S2000 projectors, 13.1" Brembo BBK, EU.....381 HP/323 TQ
sweet, now we need a Tutorial on how to take apart the cluster and fix certain things like a sticking speedo.
__________________ G4 Black on Black leather 5spd SE |Shaved Rear w/ Black Nissan logo | TK Premium Tints, 25% rear/35% sides/5% sunroof| XStorm 6k HIDs | AE Black trim Headlights |Black bumper lens| Stillen K&N Short ram WAI | LSS Y-pipe |Magnaflow catback w/4" chrome tip | Team Voodoo shift knob | New europe Leather steering wheel cover | Strut tower bar | Brembo Custom Slotted-Dimpled Rotors with Axxis Ultimate pads |
thank you so much for the write up. I was under the impression you HAD to remove the steering column and i was having a really hard time with that for some reason and ended up just giving up. this makes it a lot easier!
Check out some of that thread and you'll see what I mean. It couldn't possibly be more detailed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Good job. I'm always scared of breaking the bezel, as it's a bitcch to get out (as you know). I ALWAYS remove the top portion of the steering column first to give me that extra 1/4" of space as I walk out the bezel. Couple of extra steps, but worth it IMO. Plus, I don't have to worry about scratching it up.
I also don't remove the switches ahead of time with a small flathead screwdriver as you have shown, as I don't want little dents/indentations in my bezel or switches from prying. I pull the bezel, walk it out a little, then disconnect the plugs from behind, then finish removing the bezel entirely with the switches intact.
6 in one hand, half a dozen in the other, same end result. I just like to take the extra steps to ensure nothing gets damaged/scratched along the way.
Again, nice and clear writeup. I'm sure it will come in very handy for many orgers.
Yea, I know what you mean. Actually with that small flathead, the tip is thin enough to get directly behind the face of the switch and doesn't leave any marks. All of the scratches and dents in there are from previous removals using everything but the correct tool.
While taking the pics for the picture tutorial, I had to spend a while figuring out just how to get it out to make sure I could while on camera, heh.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
__________________ 1996 Maxima GXE "My boy blue"
TS ECU|RSB|FSTB|Leather/Heated Seats|12"sub-Alpines-Rainbow SLCs-Audison SRx2|Spoiler|5.5 Gen 17's|Custom Red Clears|Viper 771|R34 TSX Retro|5th gen muffler|300zx Fuel filter
Quote:
Originally Posted by pmohr
Oh I'll show you a dingy. A reaaaaaaaaaaal small one.
Last edited by Coolsaber57; 07-11-2009 at 11:15 AM.
Man that is a very picture orientated write up over there. Almost make me want to get a 240 and drop a sr in
Indeed, I felt the same way. I learned quite a bit from that thread, personally.
I spend a lot of time researching various things on various forums, just to learn new and interesting things. A tutorial with lots of pictures is as helpful to random people as it is to the owners of that specific vehicle. That's why I think the A32 (at the very least) needs more detailed, in-depth tutorials.
Basically I need to get a rear valve cover, some gaskets, and some aluminum plate so I can make up an IACV/TB adapter.
I wish I had a Z33 (or at least one available) so I could video how I change the clutch on one of those in an ~hour, that would be nice.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Indeed, I felt the same way. I learned quite a bit from that thread, personally.
I spend a lot of time researching various things on various forums, just to learn new and interesting things. A tutorial with lots of pictures is as helpful to random people as it is to the owners of that specific vehicle. That's why I think the A32 (at the very least) needs more detailed, in-depth tutorials.
Basically I need to get a rear valve cover, some gaskets, and some aluminum plate so I can make up an IACV/TB adapter.
I wish I had a Z33 (or at least one available) so I could video how I change the clutch on one of those in an ~hour, that would be nice.
Pictures= learning
no doubt about it.Hell this is why toddlers use picture books Its almost the same concept.Pictures is almost as good as doing it hands on. You can read all you want but if the other person can not visualize the process then it is pretty much useless IMHO.
I take it you want a 5th gen VC and want to use a PF TB?
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97 Maxima GXE Totalled
96 Maxima Se Blown 3.5 New one coming
90 B12 Sentra My new winter beater
Pictures= learning
no doubt about it.Hell this is why toddlers use picture books Its almost the same concept.Pictures is almost as good as doing it hands on. You can read all you want but if the other person can not visualize the process then it is pretty much useless IMHO.
I take it you want a 5th gen VC and want to use a PF TB?
No, going to use an A32 TB. And indeed, A33 rear valve cover, then just going to modify the coils.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
No, going to use an A32 TB. And indeed, A33 rear valve cover, then just going to modify the coils.
Hmm well if you want i could sell it probley sell it to you for pretty cheap. Say 15 shipped. Id just have to go to the shop and take it off the good ole vq30
LMK
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97 Maxima GXE Totalled
96 Maxima Se Blown 3.5 New one coming
90 B12 Sentra My new winter beater
Hmm well if you want i could sell it probley sell it to you for pretty cheap. Say 15 shipped. Id just have to go to the shop and take it off the good ole vq30
LMK
Works for me, PM your paypal.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
Had to tighten my speedo screws. This made it quick and painless. Thanks a bunch pmohr!!
__________________
1991 SE Auto - caught fire at 180K. fixed. sold at 217K
1994 Camry - totalled
1996 SE Auto - DD
1997 SE 5SP - Turbo project. New core support summer '08. Rebuilt transmission by me!!!! Completed 3/15/09
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolsaber57
Eaaasy there big fella, I can see you lighting that flamethrower from here
i only removed my top port of the steering column. it makes it a whole lot easier and less likely to break the gauge cluster trim. plus it only takes a minute to remove that top portion anyways.
__________________ 03 Z33 Brickyard touring coupe 6spd 97 Maxima - Sold
Quote:
Originally Posted by 35oZephyR View Post
My350z = General Car Enthusiast Forum (sprinkled in with a little Z douchebaggery)
In the video tutorial, how come you have the bottom clips disconnected? Just wondering. Looks like it makes the job a lot easier. I had a b**** time getting that bezel out.
Just watched the video...holy sh1t! You're fcken brutal to your max. I'm with Wizard, i baby my max and use soft plastic tools to remove bezels/trim, i rage whenever something gets scratched.
Anyways, video was great and entertaining.
Btw in the video, did you remember to lower your steering wheel before removing the gauge bezel? looks a bit high
__________________ Paying a man to work on your car is like paying another man to sleep with your wife.
-Hank Hill
99 SE-L - 00vi - Y/E
Just watched the video...holy sh1t! You're fcken brutal to your max. I'm with Wizard, i baby my max and use soft plastic tools to remove bezels/trim, i rage whenever something gets scratched.
Anyways, video was great and entertaining.
Btw in the video, did you remember to lower your steering wheel before removing the gauge bezel? looks a bit high
Indeed, steering wheel was all the way down.
I wouldn't say brutal, but I don't take any extra special care to keep everything pristine.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation
I did this a few days ago before having the tutorial and I'll state the obvious- you are 100% correct. Nice work.
So what DO you do about the little clips falling into oblivion? I've also lost the clips to hold the plastic panel under the steering wheel, and it's annoying having it loose...
I did this a few days ago before having the tutorial and I'll state the obvious- you are 100% correct. Nice work.
So what DO you do about the little clips falling into oblivion? I've also lost the clips to hold the plastic panel under the steering wheel, and it's annoying having it loose...
I try to replace them with salvaged clips from every junkyard visit, but I've been slacking off lately.
None of the panels I'm missing clips from vibrate or make any noise, so replacing the clips for me would be more of a 'peace of mind' thing, rather than serving a functional purpose.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2damax
This jerk is right so often I just search threads hoping he gets something wrong so I can catch him
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizzmyazz
ok so what i found out is that because of the FMU, i dont need to get injectors because it will neutralize the oil pressure to prevent detotnation