Les7311

Plan to replace the front and rear engine mounts (Radiator and Firewall general areas), and looking for a vid or pic-illustrations how to get to these mounts.

Already replaced the tranny and right (by windshield washer) mounts.

Surgery scheduled for next weekend.

Thanks for your help!!

Update: see write up below on how this job was done (no pixs - sorry)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...utomatics.html

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...-mmi-help.html

Les7311

Thank you Sir!


Will read every line within each post. Seems like the rear will be a PITA come time for surgery....


Welcome anyone else with pics etc....

jtricer1973

Well, I just changed all mine except the rear, which I paid a mechanic I knew to do. The rear took him a while and I am sure it was a PITA to get to. The front I did and wasn't too bad. I also changed the Trans and passanger side mounts. Hardest thing I found about any of them was getting the bolts in and all lined back up. Honestly, this has been one of the more challenging cars to work on for me. Been working on my wife's quite a bit the last couple weeks and nothing I have had to do to it was what I call easy or has went smoothly. Maybe I have just been unlucky, but I eventually got it. Not looking forward to the wheel bearings I am about to change!! I think that's gonna be a JOB!!!!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Found this...

http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...MI_Install.pdf


I know the 5th gne and 6th gen crossmembers are different, but man, it was extremely easy on the 5th gen.

Drop the cross members, and bam, your mounts are right on front of you. Change them, and then bolt it back up using a jack. Aligning them is actually quite east on the 5th gen. I've done it 2x and neither time had a problem. The engine is fairly loose so you can actually push it up with minimal force and it will go where you need it to in order to align the bolts/pins.

Les7311

that is a sweet write-up by racingline.........the best I have seen so far......nyssssss

Les7311

HELP!!!!!!


Removed the Y-pipe, the two lower mount bolts, but could not for my life break the center bolt (that runs through the center of mount), nor could I lower the subframe after loosening all 4 bolts - - had jack also slightly supporting engine/tranny.


What am in missing????

Les7311

The Real Deal to replace the Rear Mounts!!!
If you don't have the right tools plus have extra help (if you an apprentice) then leave it alone!!!! You been Warned!!!! The day before I tried, and got all the way to the center motor mount bolts, and could not remove, break, loosen, PB blaster, Liquid Wrench....nothing to save my life in breaking this sucker…..
BIG Big-ups to these two El Salvadorian who owns a tire and service shop, and working on a Sunday - - and made magic under 2 hours – yes, more like 1 ½ hours. Here is how it went down, and I watched them step by step, sometimes holding the light and passing tools – hey it’s Sunday and I wanted to go home for dinner.
Tools: Air system, Deep and regular sockets @ metric 10, 14, 17 and 19 mm. Wrench @ 10, 14 and 15 mm. Am putting GREAT estimates on what I saw, and close to actual time it took them.

• Car on lift, air tools in hand (wwweeeeeeeinnngggg wwwwweeeinnggggg – they ready!!!)
• Remove driver side wheel only (~20 seconds)
• Long extension socket-bar about 3ft long with 17mm socket and attached to air gun to loosen the 2 lower motor mount (MM) bolts - easy. The center bolt required same length breaker bar and I saw a 5 ft 8 guy almost popping veins in this head to loosen the center MM bolt, and did it like that!!!!! Air gun was of no use to break that center MM bolt. (I tried breaking same bolt the day before kneeling down, and on back, plus using a 100psi electric impact gun- - NOPE!!!. Shop guys used Air gun to continue loosen all three bolts - -17 mm wrench used to hold nut for lower bolts (~ 2 minutes)
• Removed the exhaust Y-pipe and disconnect the O2 sensor @ 14 and 15mm socket plus small screwdriver (~ 1 ½ minutes).
• Remove that spout shield that sits to the side of the tranny - this is from underneath car (12mm) and also bolted to side of mount (~ 15 seconds) - - still don't know the purpose of this scoop plate????
• Remove the three (3) 10 mm bolts that attached to back of mount (~ 1 minute) - use your replacement mount to see the positions of these bolts. One is attached to the Caty Convert heat shield
• Loosen two rear sub frame 19mm bolts. Saw fame dropped about 2 inches (~ 20 seconds). If that pesky center MM bolts is not loosen, then the Subframe will not lower.....

Note: all this time, prime tools ready (not cheap stuff, not mom and pop tools from the kitchen, not from sears…. PRIME). Then they started chanting in Spanish, on a roll, not even to scratch their head - - I was impressed, and I think they knew my dinner was ready!!! Mounts loose, now here comes the fun part - that ONE lower MM Bolt that doesn't comes out all the way (WHY DID NISSAN DID THAT???? Pi$$ us off????), and here come the Skillz part.....
Note: The estimates are my best-guestimates it took them to complete an element. In between they had to connect sockets, switch positions, used different air guns, not factored into the time equations. These next set, you need BARs as thick as a CROW BAR, or better.... Tire Wrench maybe, but not recommended

• After several attempts trying to remove that stubborn front lower bolt that hits the tranny, they pulled out long-bars to move and shift the engine/tranny a few inches up/down/forward, they repositioned jack stand 3 different locations and no luck removing that bolt (~ 3 minutes went by)
• Solution (and the only way I understood was them pointing but still spoke in Spanish): They removed the Tranny mount - - I would never thought of that (~30 seconds) - I think they used 17mm sockets on these
• They removed also the front engine MM bottom bolt - - never thought of that also (~ 30 seconds) - I think they used 17mm sockets on these bolts

Did I mention these guys on a roll, talking Spanish and chanting……More fun stuff in getting that mount out.. so let’s go….

• Long story short, and after much engine/tranny wriggling and lifting, and peeping into areas, English mixed into Spanish, we twist and turn the mount until it was extracted from the seating position. We continued wriggling MM until we finally got it out above the driver side axle and slide it out above the driver side brakes system. It came out sideways with the holes in the mount facing “up-down (~5 minutes+). They still chanting and I think one cussed to say yes, we almost there!!!! But we didn’t disconnect the MM solenoid from the plug that sitting almost across from the air box… the car in the air – no need lowering, just cut it I told them.
• STOP!!!! Read onn before you cut a daymn thing…. Read on……

READ:::: DO NOT CUT THE SOLENOID WIRES UNLESS YOU HAVE A 10amp FUSE READY TO REPLACE (I told them cut, not remembering the battery was still connected, and blow a 10 amp fuse that shifts the gear. I found out the hard way:::: car would not leave park. Had to call uncle for help, and he walked me through the “shift-locked” process. the fuse box under the steering column and I think labeled "all electrical" on the right column of fuses, close to middle... Ok let’s continue…

• Feed new mount through same spot to seat into position (seems easier going in than coming out). Tied loop from old solenoid wire to new and let dangle - - remember I told them to cut wire (about 2 minutes)
• Tilt, then lower, then raise engine - - -all to (re)position motor to replace that pesky bolt, plus the other 2 bolts, to line up holes to catch bolts, then retighten – here you need help for sure – guarantee need help (about 4 minutes)
  
  Note: the engine stand was placed on the very front of the engine line split of the engine/tranny. This position lift the front of the engine and tranny upwards, and also tilts the back of engine / tranny downwards…. Almost like a plane taking off angle. Do not center engine stand directly and centered under engine and tranny - - You will not be able to remove bolt in this jack position!!! Nope, nada, nein!!!!

Did I mention them still chanting and talking in Spanish!??? They were on a roll and everybody happy!!!

• Retighten sub frame bolts; replace the 3 bolts on back of rear Motor Mount - - need small fingers or great small tools to reach between spaces to catch them in position (I went from the passenger side and saw the heat shield hole and able to get a better reach there), then the 2 bolts that hold that plate on side of M mount - - what’s the purpose of this plate - - air catch cooler for the mount, I don’t know????? (~10 minutes)
• Reconnect Y-pipe and sensor (about 2 minutes)
• Replaced tire, feed solenoid into engine bay and plug up solenoid (about 3 minutes)
  
  The only hiccup was cutting the solenoid wire which I fixed fused when I got home. Paid them $100, and am out the door!!!! Car drives a lot better. The old mount was cracked at the center.

Maxima1984

I'm in the process of changing my front engine mount and have both nuts off and easy access to all bolts; all with the car sitting on its 4 wheels. Now just working on the main centre bolt. I wasn't sure how / where to support the engine but now have my answer!!


Will do so according to this link:
http://racinglineperformance.com/sho...MI_Install.pdf


Thanks again!! This website continues to be a wealth of DIY information for me!! Also; the engine mount only cost me $100 AUD including shipping from California to Australia!


A mount which Nissan was happily going to charge $545 for...


EDIT: After all that, I had to concede defeat. Raising the motor off a bit of wood with a floor jack was just lifting the whole car. I even used a piece off wood from the floor jack to the base of the motor mount bracket; but again, it was still trying to lift the whole car. It did lift the engine a bit, but not enough for me to access removing the engine mount. I looked at my other options; removing the driver's side motor mount (your passenger side), or lower the sub frame, or remove the Y-Pipe. While I may be somewhat capable DIY-enthusiast... these areas where outside my comfort zone! So, I put it all back together, and tomorrow I will seek a mechanic and let it be their problem


Regardless; thanks for the advice and tips, but for some reason it did not work as though it was meant to. Finally to add; the engine mount itself was loose and I could move it a bit by hand. I had managed to get all the nuts and bolts off the mount; but could not physically remove the mount.

Kryogen

so you guys bought aftermarket mounts with no sensors?

What is the impact of not having that sensor?

Les7311

Front and rear has sensors....

Kryogen

which mounts did you get

Maxima1984

The fun never stops! - Turns out the rear motor mount was wrong.


However, my rear motor mount was in good condition, so we just re-used that one, as I needed the car back today and they would not get the mount in until some time later. The front mount, was correct.


Feels a lot nicer to drive now; no loud clunks under the hood when engaging drive or reverse gear and no clunk when coming off the throttle.


Wish I had some Y-Pipes to install, as they had to remove the factory Y-Pipe to remove the rear mount anyway

Les7311

I replaced all 4 mounts.

Have to go underneath as the profound engine knock / bang continues.

I may need to check torque on the bolts on all 4 mounts.......

Lifetime warrantee on all 4, and hope the rear are not a problem. RPM now up to 950 after I replaced the front and rear....

Any suggestions?

Kryogen

did you buy OEM mounts or aftermarket?
aftermarket mounts might not fit properly?

Les7311

Purchased aftermarket (all 4 for $185). They fitted well and could see the OEM worn and cracked.

Am puzzled why car idles higher after installing front and rear mounts, and the knocking continues.....

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Great write-up, Les. Thanks for taking the time out to post that, I'm sure it will be very helpful for many people in the future.

As far as the banging that you're experiencing, what is the condition of your transmission? Have you already replaced the valve body? Does it delay and bang into gear when going from park-drive-reverse, etc? How are the up & downshifts? If you're experiencing these issues, this sounds like the valve body problem that the majority of the people on this board have dealt with.

Les7311

YW. I looked all over and couldn't find one detail enough, or was missing key elements, so I decided to make this write-up.

The VB was done over 2 yrs, so am ruling that out as a problem (uncle fixed that @ $1K.

The stress bang is in the engine bay and more at the firewall areas

- entering an inclined driveway from the street at 45degree angle, and the engine bay area produce that sound......
- like slow accelerating and then those first few sound....
- going over a speed hump and that sound....

Sound like using 4finger-knuckles tap on a desk / door / drywall...

I think my mounts and possible subframe need re-torquing. Engine still have more than normal engine movement when the "brake-gas test" is applied.... going to check the mounts again. Was thinking the Subframe bushings needs replacing also....???

Am stumped over why high idle since I installed the mounts....

Kryogen

might be because you are using ****ty parts. 185 for 4 mounts what do you expect

Les7311

Am starting to think the same.


This weekend, the shop ask I bring car in to put back on lift to see where the issues area. Already put the seller on notice, and they willing to replace any mount found defective.... will see...

Kryogen

WHERE DID YOU BUY the mounts, and what brand.

Les7311

http://www.motor-king.com/nissan/maxima.html?type=302

This is the spot I got them from. Didn't see a Brand, but by clicking on each mount, it provides a description.

smplyamzng

What did the rough idle turn out to be? I am about to pull the trigger on these but kinda skeptical on the price. At the same time I am not spending ridiculous amounts of money on mounts for a 10+ year old car.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271721059553?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Les7311

I still haven't figured it out, and have driven it like that since then. I idle at 900 rpm.....