Racingline Motor Mounts on Automatics
12-11-2006, 11:52 AM
#1
Racingline Motor Mounts on Automatics
So I finally tried installing the motor mount Racingline sent me. The good news is that they both appear to fit, the bad news is that the rear one is not readily accessable. The front is straight foward, unbolt, disconnect wire harness, remove, and install. The rear however will not come out without what appears to be removing the transmission. Niether myself nor my neighborhood shop could figure out a way to do it easily. Nissan warranty appears to be 7 hours from what I'm told by the stealership. So unless anyone has a way to get around this it looks like the only time to do this is when installing headers. Here are some pics below of the fun I had this morning.
THE POSITIVE: With just the front mount installed there was an immediate diffference in power response. Instead of the normal engine lag from pedal to power there was just wheel spin. It really made me wish for a hsld, I can only imagine how a second mount would effect the situation. Much more immediate response in every situation, the power just goes to the wheels. Idling at a stop light is a smidge rougher but nothing most people would even notice and if you are doing this chances are your suspension is modded and this pales in comparison to how that effects ride comfort.
Enough rambling, now pics:
Front Mount Installed
Rear Mount Bolt Hitting Transmission
THE POSITIVE: With just the front mount installed there was an immediate diffference in power response. Instead of the normal engine lag from pedal to power there was just wheel spin. It really made me wish for a hsld, I can only imagine how a second mount would effect the situation. Much more immediate response in every situation, the power just goes to the wheels. Idling at a stop light is a smidge rougher but nothing most people would even notice and if you are doing this chances are your suspension is modded and this pales in comparison to how that effects ride comfort.
Enough rambling, now pics:
Front Mount Installed
Rear Mount Bolt Hitting Transmission
12-12-2006, 12:43 AM
#5
Originally Posted by MisterSparkle
ok can someone clear something about the LSD issue...do our maximas have LSD???
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
yeah....... why did you not undoo the two lower bolts and tilt the mount toward the firewall like we did on my car?
Granted i do have the 6sp but we had a simillar access issue on mine.
Kamski
Granted i do have the 6sp but we had a simillar access issue on mine.
Kamski
So like I said, if your doing headers and the manifolds off already, that's the time to do it. Unless of course your replacing your transmission.
12-12-2006, 10:49 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
THE POSITIVE: With just the front mount installed there was an immediate diffference in power response. Instead of the normal engine lag from pedal to power there was just wheel spin....
12-12-2006, 10:54 AM
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,336
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
Wheel spin????? Last time I checked that wasn't good, can someone explain?
2. Put in gear.
3. Tromp down heavily on gas pedal (the one furthest on the left)
4. Power delivered through wheels overcomes available traction = wheel spin
CM.
12-12-2006, 11:03 AM
#9
Moderator GT-R
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 19,780
Originally Posted by CanadianMoFo
1. Star car.
2. Put in gear.
3. Tromp down heavily on gas pedal (the one furthest on the left)
4. Power delivered through wheels overcomes available traction = wheel spin
CM.
2. Put in gear.
3. Tromp down heavily on gas pedal (the one furthest on the left)
4. Power delivered through wheels overcomes available traction = wheel spin
CM.
12-12-2006, 11:04 AM
#11
Originally Posted by CanadianMoFo
1. Star car.
2. Put in gear.
3. Tromp down heavily on gas pedal (the one furthest on the left)
4. Power delivered through wheels overcomes available traction = wheel spin
CM.
2. Put in gear.
3. Tromp down heavily on gas pedal (the one furthest on the left)
4. Power delivered through wheels overcomes available traction = wheel spin
CM.
My question is whether this mod would increase the spin? I used to spin a lot (heavy foot) with my RSA and my BFGoodrich were able to fix it with much better grip.
Would I go back to spinning at nearly every start?
12-12-2006, 11:16 AM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,336
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
Duh...I understand what wheel spin is but thanks anyway.
My question is whether this mod would increase the spin? I used to spin a lot (heavy foot) with my RSA and my BFGoodrich were able to fix it with much better grip.
Would I go back to spinning at nearly every start?
My question is whether this mod would increase the spin? I used to spin a lot (heavy foot) with my RSA and my BFGoodrich were able to fix it with much better grip.
Would I go back to spinning at nearly every start?
Well it should reduce wheel hop. Different from wheel spin, but simmilar. When you're spinning your wheels and keep spinning them it should feel like the front end of the vehicle is hopping up and down. The motor mount insert is supposed to reduce this by reducing the rocking motion of the engine.
So no you wouldn't go back to spinning at every start, if anything it will improve your starts under heavy load.
I had similar mounts in my 99 Mystique and it drastically reduced the wheel hop. I'm definately getting these ones once the FSTB is ready and they can ship out together.
CM
12-12-2006, 11:17 AM
#14
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
Duh...I understand what wheel spin is but thanks anyway.
My question is whether this mod would increase the spin? I used to spin a lot (heavy foot) with my RSA and my BFGoodrich were able to fix it with much better grip.
Would I go back to spinning at nearly every start?
My question is whether this mod would increase the spin? I used to spin a lot (heavy foot) with my RSA and my BFGoodrich were able to fix it with much better grip.
Would I go back to spinning at nearly every start?
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K, so there should be three bolts holding up the mount in place, did you remove the bottom two, two hold it in place, the middle one goes through the rubber. Is that the one that wont come out?
Kam
12-12-2006, 11:40 AM
#16
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
K, so there should be three bolts holding up the mount in place, did you remove the bottom two, two hold it in place, the middle one goes through the rubber. Is that the one that wont come out?
Kam
Kam
12-12-2006, 11:42 AM
#17
Originally Posted by xoomer.com
Wheel spin????? Last time I checked that wasn't good, can someone explain?
12-12-2006, 12:25 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
No the picture is of the bottom bolt closest to the engine. It's one that connects the mount to the subframe. If it was the one through the bushing then I would have been able to manipulate it.
Then we sprayed lithium grease on the insert and some on the mount and managed to slip the insert into the mount by manouvering it in there.
The mount was slightly tilted forward towards the engine and there were two 12mm bolts holding it from the rear also, there is like an accessory cable running around the back of the mount, those two 12mm bolts had to be removed for the mount to tilt forward.
MOUNT, 3 17mm bolts, 2 12mm bolts attached to the back of it.
Kam
12-12-2006, 05:18 PM
#20
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Cause when we did mine, we didnt even remove all the bolts, we just undid the one in the middle and then one attaching the mount to the subframe.
Then we sprayed lithium grease on the insert and some on the mount and managed to slip the insert into the mount by manouvering it in there.
The mount was slightly tilted forward towards the engine and there were two 12mm bolts holding it from the rear also, there is like an accessory cable running around the back of the mount, those two 12mm bolts had to be removed for the mount to tilt forward.
MOUNT, 3 17mm bolts, 2 12mm bolts attached to the back of it.
Kam
Then we sprayed lithium grease on the insert and some on the mount and managed to slip the insert into the mount by manouvering it in there.
The mount was slightly tilted forward towards the engine and there were two 12mm bolts holding it from the rear also, there is like an accessory cable running around the back of the mount, those two 12mm bolts had to be removed for the mount to tilt forward.
MOUNT, 3 17mm bolts, 2 12mm bolts attached to the back of it.
Kam
we tilted the mount towards the firewall not the engine. The front bolt that is stuck on his was easy to remove on yours.
Nietzsche: Is your car a 4 or 5 speed auto? cause I know all the available transmissions are slightly different, and I'd like to narrow down which ones have what issues.
12-13-2006, 07:30 PM
#22
Originally Posted by taz
we tilted the mount towards the firewall not the engine. The front bolt that is stuck on his was easy to remove on yours.
Nietzsche: Is your car a 4 or 5 speed auto? cause I know all the available transmissions are slightly different, and I'd like to narrow down which ones have what issues.
Nietzsche: Is your car a 4 or 5 speed auto? cause I know all the available transmissions are slightly different, and I'd like to narrow down which ones have what issues.
I love how my car shifts now, its just snaps into gears
Kamski
12-13-2006, 08:50 PM
#23
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
Shame he cant get that installed in there, cause thats by far my favourite mod for putting the power down to the wheels!
I love how my car shifts now, its just snaps into gears
Kamski
I love how my car shifts now, its just snaps into gears
Kamski
12-14-2006, 03:36 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Glude
Is your car a 6 speed Kam, how was the install? I assume u did both?
12-14-2006, 05:44 AM
#25
Originally Posted by taz
1.5-2 hours total time laying on your back, and you have to drop the Y pipe. His car is a 6 speed
Front = 20 minutes
Rear = 60 - 90 minutes
Both are in and I love it.
Kamski
12-14-2006, 05:46 AM
#26
Originally Posted by taz
1.5-2 hours total time laying on your back, and you have to drop the Y pipe. His car is a 6 speed
Front = 20 min
Rear = 60-90 min with y-pipe removal.
Bar non my favourite power mod.
Kam
12-15-2006, 01:58 PM
#28
You won't be disappointed. Another thing to mention is the better ride quality. The car excelerates much smoother and it doesn't jostle when shifting. The vehicle stays more planted as well because the motor can't torque back and shift the cars weight.
Just some added thoughts.
I would say despite being performance oriented I would say that this is great for more comfort. If your looking for a better ride this is the way to go.
Just some added thoughts.
I would say despite being performance oriented I would say that this is great for more comfort. If your looking for a better ride this is the way to go.
12-15-2006, 04:26 PM
#30
The idle is slightly rougher in gear, not something most people would even notice. There is more to ride quality than idle shake. Under acceleration you don't have that jump up from the motor and the shifting doesn't shake the car. To me this makes it a more luxurious ride with less shaking and jostling. But the idle is SLIGHTLY rougher, again not something I would think most would notice. I did only put the front one in though.
12-15-2006, 11:51 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
The idle is slightly rougher in gear, not something most people would even notice. There is more to ride quality than idle shake. Under acceleration you don't have that jump up from the motor and the shifting doesn't shake the car. To me this makes it a more luxurious ride with less shaking and jostling. But the idle is SLIGHTLY rougher, again not something I would think most would notice. I did only put the front one in though.
BUT THE SHIFTING and Firmness of the DRIVE TRAIN is AWESOME!!!!!!!
Kamski
12-16-2006, 02:40 PM
#32
so Nietzsche what are you saying we need to remove in order to put in the rear engine mount? the tranny? or just the y-pipe?
cause i really wanna try to put some more of the crank power to the wheels...however i don't really wanna sacrifice ride comfort for power. lost too much of the with the suspension swap...however that was very very necessary for a SL...lolxz
cause i really wanna try to put some more of the crank power to the wheels...however i don't really wanna sacrifice ride comfort for power. lost too much of the with the suspension swap...however that was very very necessary for a SL...lolxz
12-16-2006, 05:54 PM
#33
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
With Both in i dont find the idle rough at all. My car usually runs 91 of 94 octane so the idle on it is very smooth. From that perspective I didnt feel much change to idle.
BUT THE SHIFTING and Firmness of the DRIVE TRAIN is AWESOME!!!!!!!
Kamski
BUT THE SHIFTING and Firmness of the DRIVE TRAIN is AWESOME!!!!!!!
Kamski
12-16-2006, 06:00 PM
#34
Originally Posted by MisterSparkle
so Nietzsche what are you saying we need to remove in order to put in the rear engine mount? the tranny? or just the y-pipe?
cause i really wanna try to put some more of the crank power to the wheels...however i don't really wanna sacrifice ride comfort for power. lost too much of the with the suspension swap...however that was very very necessary for a SL...lolxz
cause i really wanna try to put some more of the crank power to the wheels...however i don't really wanna sacrifice ride comfort for power. lost too much of the with the suspension swap...however that was very very necessary for a SL...lolxz
After some research the best way to get the rear mount done would appear to be removing the subframe. The upper bolt on the mount is the one that holds it to the engine. The lower two bolt to the subframe, so if you remove the subframe you drop the rear mount with it.
Still a ton of work, so like I said. If your doing headers, that's the time to pop it in.
12-19-2006, 12:18 AM
#35
aiite koo...lolxz thanks don't plann on doing headers unless i don't have to worry at all about the SES light...which is highly unlikey unless i feel like doing extra work and putting in a O2 sim...lolxz
brian please chime and tell me otherwise...lolxz
brian please chime and tell me otherwise...lolxz
12-19-2006, 09:08 AM
#37
unless your ready for a pain in the a$$ install just buy the front insert. Or buy both and put in the rear when you do either headers or a front sway bar.
But either way buy something
But either way buy something
