motor mount swap....
07-27-2006, 02:32 AM
#41
Originally Posted by PoLo
good job looking it up.
now what i also heard is that physically the mounts are bigger for auto's, so they'd have to purchase OEM MT mounts, and then gut them out. placement is still the same and all should mount accordingly.
now what i also heard is that physically the mounts are bigger for auto's, so they'd have to purchase OEM MT mounts, and then gut them out. placement is still the same and all should mount accordingly.
04-16-2011, 08:48 PM
#43
i know this is probably an old post but does anyone have the torq specs on the crossmember and motor mounts? me and a buddy of mine, mista0406 will be at least replacing the front and rear mounts on my car.
04-16-2011, 09:07 PM
#44
04-17-2011, 05:45 AM
#45
All your spec's right here. Page EM-62. Pay close attention to the legend when following the FSM torque specifications. White Wrenches=ft.lbs. and Black Wrenches=In.lbs. Be safe!
11-02-2011, 07:42 AM
#46
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 46
Yeah, I know. Old thread. However, it is the most relevant! I don't need the ES mount in mine (2001 i30) but I don't want to get new electrical ones either. Can I use OEM mounts from a 5sp maxima in here, or are there adjustments required in addition to that?
07-14-2013, 07:17 PM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
The basically the front mount typically the one that brakes?
My car clunks when going over bumps and it sounds like the engine is what's making
the clunking noise.
the engine is pretty loud too. I can hear it through the firewall. Maybe it's metal on metal in there?
My car clunks when going over bumps and it sounds like the engine is what's making
the clunking noise.
the engine is pretty loud too. I can hear it through the firewall. Maybe it's metal on metal in there?
07-14-2013, 07:35 PM
#50
Sent from my iPhone using MaximaOrg
07-17-2013, 06:28 PM
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,215
Thx man. I'll check that out.
Did a quick searched that seems to be it!
Same exact symptoms.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-clunking.html
Did a quick searched that seems to be it!
Same exact symptoms.
The clunking sound/feel does NOT occur when turning the wheel. It occurs during acceleration/deceleration.
The squeaking noise is constant when driving and it occurs when turning the wheel to the right.
Thanks
The squeaking noise is constant when driving and it occurs when turning the wheel to the right.
Thanks
Last edited by Donkeypunch; 07-17-2013 at 06:50 PM.
08-21-2013, 08:53 AM
#52
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
I picked up an 02 SE with an AT and 138K miles a few weeks ago and have been taking care of some issues that I've noticed. As I was driving it home I noticed the steering felt washy and the front end seemed to ride much rougher than it should. Had to replace the output speed sensor to clear a CEL and noticed it had torn CV boots. Not wanting to deal with it in Texas heat, I just took it to a shop and had new axles put in. I described my ride and steering issues and had them look over the whole front end (thinking it was a ball joint problem). Came back to pick it up and was quoted $1400 to replace all 4 motor mounts (above and beyond the axles which I had already paid for). I was told that the electronic motor mounts interface with the ECU and if broken can cause premature transmission failure, and further that there was no aftermarket electronic mount on the market. I quickly found that to be untrue and I was skeptical so I came here for some better advice.
- Aside from a light, but consistent vibration at idle the motor "feels" fine. The parts aren't too expensive and the process seems straightforward enough so I might DIY this in a few months when the weather cools down. Am I really risking my transmission by waiting? Hell if idle vibration is the only symptom of it I may just leave it alone.
- I was told by the shop that the front and rear mounts are electronic, but I can only find front mounts with the sensor (I'd like to stay OEM spec, even if it means shelling out a bit more for the part).
- This is just a commuter car, so I'm not looking for increased drivetrain stability. If I buy the mounts in the bracket (like this - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3572148&cc=1431961), it's just a bolt off bolt on install correct? I hear a lot of talk about inserts being cut, torched or pressed out but am I correct in assuming that's just for upgraded (ES) inserts?
- I see the left and right mounts rarely fail, but if I do find them to be compromised how tough are they to replace?
08-21-2013, 09:43 AM
#53
I picked up an 02 SE with an AT and 138K miles a few weeks ago and have been taking care of some issues that I've noticed. As I was driving it home I noticed the steering felt washy and the front end seemed to ride much rougher than it should. Had to replace the output speed sensor to clear a CEL and noticed it had torn CV boots. Not wanting to deal with it in Texas heat, I just took it to a shop and had new axles put in. I described my ride and steering issues and had them look over the whole front end (thinking it was a ball joint problem). Came back to pick it up and was quoted $1400 to replace all 4 motor mounts (above and beyond the axles which I had already paid for). I was told that the electronic motor mounts interface with the ECU and if broken can cause premature transmission failure, and further that there was no aftermarket electronic mount on the market. I quickly found that to be untrue and I was skeptical so I came here for some better advice.
- Aside from a light, but consistent vibration at idle the motor "feels" fine. The parts aren't too expensive and the process seems straightforward enough so I might DIY this in a few months when the weather cools down. Am I really risking my transmission by waiting? Hell if idle vibration is the only symptom of it I may just leave it alone.
- I was told by the shop that the front and rear mounts are electronic, but I can only find front mounts with the sensor (I'd like to stay OEM spec, even if it means shelling out a bit more for the part).
- This is just a commuter car, so I'm not looking for increased drivetrain stability. If I buy the mounts in the bracket (like this - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3572148&cc=1431961), it's just a bolt off bolt on install correct? I hear a lot of talk about inserts being cut, torched or pressed out but am I correct in assuming that's just for upgraded (ES) inserts?
- I see the left and right mounts rarely fail, but if I do find them to be compromised how tough are they to replace?
Just use MT mounts.
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