5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.
Welcome to Maxima.org!
Welcome to Maxima.org,
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join Maxima.org today!
There are four mounts on the motor, front and rear, left and right. I assume you are only replacing the front and rear, so even if you drop the crossmember with the front and rear mounts, the motor will be held up by the side two. You don't need anything supporting it. If you want to be extra safe, use an extra jack under it.
That write-up is true. I did it about 2 months ago, took me about 2 hours. I removed my old auto elec. mounts and installed front/back manual mounts. They bolt right up, are cheaper and stronger and drive just the same.
Just watch out for the liquid if you use the torch. My mechanic burned himself when the "oil" heated up and exploded all over the place when the rubber melted through
__________________
6MT | 06HLSD | I/H/E & FC | Stillen FSTB & RSB | Eibach Pro Kit | Illuminas | Watkins STS | UDP | NWP Spacers | Greddy Blue | ES Bushings
253.50 fwhp
249.75 lb/ft tq
14.3 @ 101mph (street tires, bad wheel bearing and a few spun tranny bearings)
im glad i payed someone to do it, after watching them, it was a PITA. as knight said, if you use a torch, beware of the liquid..
__________________
2K2 SE 6 speed Grey Lustre SE Every option minus navi, black leather, HLSD, Hotshot headers, Cattman Catback, Frankencar WAI, HP autoworks STS, ES motor mount inserts, ES shifter bushings, FSTB, RSB. JIC FLA-1 coilovers, A34 Brakes Hawk HPS pads, TR Motorsports MT1's, Toyo 4s, 64,000 original owner miles.
What are the DIY'ers using to press in the new mounts?
I bought mounts last summer and have not gotten them in. The mounts are getting really bad. Thoughts are to use a bench vice and some lube to get them in.
What are the DIY'ers using to press in the new mounts?
I bought mounts last summer and have not gotten them in. The mounts are getting really bad. Thoughts are to use a bench vice and some lube to get them in.
I don't think ES wants you to use any lube with their mounts, I had them pressed in at a local machine shop for 10 bucks took them like 10 min. and boom bam done, i used a pneumatic chisel to break the thin metal ring surrounding the rubber, then just tapped them out with a hammer
__________________
NWP Spacers,Vias Block,Engine Torque Link/Injen short ram/Stronger 2k1 MAF/Injen Filter/ES UMMB/UR Underdrive Pulley/Stillen Grounding Kit/Technosquare Reflash/Spec Stage 2+/Fidanza Flywheel/Cattman Headers/O2 Sim/True Dual 2.5” Exhaust/Progress Springs, RSB, Custom Maxima FSTB/Stillen RSTB/Tokico Blue Struts/Ksport BBK/Hella supertones
MAXUS 09' VIDhttp://videos.streetfire.net/video/M...-09_698281.htm
I have read that you need to use manual motor mounts for this job. I have an auto and would rather not have to source manual mounts at the junk yard. ES's web page doesn't mention that the mounts are manual specific. Does anyone know why I couldn't use auto mounts?
I have read that you need to use manual motor mounts for this job. I have an auto and would rather not have to source manual mounts at the junk yard. ES's web page doesn't mention that the mounts are manual specific. Does anyone know why I couldn't use auto mounts?
I might be misinterpreting this whole thing about engine mounts but, from what I understand, the electronic mounts used in cars with Auto Transmission are bigger than the ones in Manual transmission cars. The mount inserts sold by ES are only for MT so, if you are getting those, you will need to get mount brackets for MT cars (usually from junk yards). Otherwise your ES inserts will be freely sliding inside you AT mount brackets. Depending on how much you will end up spending all together, you might want to consider if it makes more $en$e to replace your electronic mounts with electronic ones.
Edit: I should note that I'm referring to differences on the front and rear mounts between AT and MT cars. If I'm not mistaken, right and left mounts are all the same.
The ES mounts are inserts only, and they only insert into the man mount. If you replace the at mount to a oem mt mount, that will bolt up no problom. I did it myself, and the new oem mt mount was like 90.00 each from the dealer. Unless you really want the ES inserts, this is a great way to go.
My Max is AT and is one of the install that was done by knight_yyz, this is pic of the cross member that knight picked up and fashioned an insert for the front larger mount so the ES bushing could be pressed in.
He replaced both the front and rear with ES bushings and all the sub bushings
He picked up for me a full cross member with the mounts, and did all the prep work on it, removing the old bushing pressing in the custom fitted insert and then pressing in the new ES bushings, jacked up my car dropped down my cross member and installed the replacement ... and mine became the cross member to be re-fitted for the next guy.
My engine sits in like a rock now under full load and all the power is now sent straight to the wheel and ground, no more wheel hop ... this for me was one of the best performance mod and was done with great craftsmanship by knight_yyz
__________________
2003 Sterling Mist 3.5 SE /Llumar tint 20%/20%/20% /Racingline FSTB /Custom Intake /BPI Velocity Stack /*17 Advance /HID Plazma Xenon Fogs /2x10 Fosgate Subs & 1000w amp. /Falken ZE912 235/50/17 OEM rims /Budget B pipe & Vibrant Exhaust - Deleted Resonator /LED Underbody Lighting /Blue LED Interior Lighting /Chrome Rings Gauge Cluster /Viper Security /F&R Motor Mount ES Bushings & Sub Bushings /Sm Markers /KYB GR2's/S-Techs