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Old 02-10-2009, 10:56 AM   #1
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02-03 motor mount how-to??

There is a write up in the How-To section but the link is still bad. Anyone have a write up on this?

Last edited by Klutch; 02-10-2009 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 11:20 AM   #2
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There are four mounts on the motor, front and rear, left and right. I assume you are only replacing the front and rear, so even if you drop the crossmember with the front and rear mounts, the motor will be held up by the side two. You don't need anything supporting it. If you want to be extra safe, use an extra jack under it.

motor mount swap....

Bottom Front motor mount leaking - replacement?

http://www.digitalpolo.com/2002Maxim...n/MotorMounts/

Here's a rough writeup:
  1. Jack up car and support on stands
  2. Unbolt the bolts that go through the front and rear motor mount inserts
  3. Unbolt crossmember, making sure you are ready for it to come down so you don't drop it on your face
  4. Remove motor mount brackets from crossmember
  5. Find a shop with a machine press to press out old inserts, or torch out the old inserts and hammer out the metal sleeve
  6. Press new inserts in
  7. Reinstall motor mount brackets
  8. Reinstall crossmember
  9. Profit????

I think I got everything...

Last edited by Puppetmaster; 02-10-2009 at 11:22 AM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 06:00 PM   #3
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http://www.energysuspension.com/pdf_instruc/17426.PDF
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Old 02-11-2009, 09:25 PM   #4
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That write-up is true. I did it about 2 months ago, took me about 2 hours. I removed my old auto elec. mounts and installed front/back manual mounts. They bolt right up, are cheaper and stronger and drive just the same.
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:02 PM   #5
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Just watch out for the liquid if you use the torch. My mechanic burned himself when the "oil" heated up and exploded all over the place when the rubber melted through
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:39 AM   #6
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im glad i payed someone to do it, after watching them, it was a PITA. as knight said, if you use a torch, beware of the liquid..
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Old 02-12-2009, 06:45 AM   #7
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Yeah, I had no issues with the liquid because we just baked the motor mounts in an old coal furnace for two hours until the rubber all melted away.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:52 PM   #8
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What are the DIY'ers using to press in the new mounts?

I bought mounts last summer and have not gotten them in. The mounts are getting really bad. Thoughts are to use a bench vice and some lube to get them in.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:39 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc0tty8 View Post
What are the DIY'ers using to press in the new mounts?

I bought mounts last summer and have not gotten them in. The mounts are getting really bad. Thoughts are to use a bench vice and some lube to get them in.
I don't think ES wants you to use any lube with their mounts, I had them pressed in at a local machine shop for 10 bucks took them like 10 min. and boom bam done, i used a pneumatic chisel to break the thin metal ring surrounding the rubber, then just tapped them out with a hammer
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:39 AM   #10
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I've done 4 sets for local guys, a tiny bit of grease is better than nothing, they tend to want to tear a little if the mount is bone dry
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:06 AM   #11
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I have read that you need to use manual motor mounts for this job. I have an auto and would rather not have to source manual mounts at the junk yard. ES's web page doesn't mention that the mounts are manual specific. Does anyone know why I couldn't use auto mounts?
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckent512 View Post
I have read that you need to use manual motor mounts for this job. I have an auto and would rather not have to source manual mounts at the junk yard. ES's web page doesn't mention that the mounts are manual specific. Does anyone know why I couldn't use auto mounts?
I might be misinterpreting this whole thing about engine mounts but, from what I understand, the electronic mounts used in cars with Auto Transmission are bigger than the ones in Manual transmission cars. The mount inserts sold by ES are only for MT so, if you are getting those, you will need to get mount brackets for MT cars (usually from junk yards). Otherwise your ES inserts will be freely sliding inside you AT mount brackets. Depending on how much you will end up spending all together, you might want to consider if it makes more $en$e to replace your electronic mounts with electronic ones.

Edit: I should note that I'm referring to differences on the front and rear mounts between AT and MT cars. If I'm not mistaken, right and left mounts are all the same.
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:30 PM   #13
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get mounts from a part out car, 96-03 front mounts are all the same and wont cost you more than 20-40 shipped
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:44 PM   #14
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The ES mounts are inserts only, and they only insert into the man mount. If you replace the at mount to a oem mt mount, that will bolt up no problom. I did it myself, and the new oem mt mount was like 90.00 each from the dealer. Unless you really want the ES inserts, this is a great way to go.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:07 PM   #15
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My Max is AT and is one of the install that was done by knight_yyz, this is pic of the cross member that knight picked up and fashioned an insert for the front larger mount so the ES bushing could be pressed in.


He replaced both the front and rear with ES bushings and all the sub bushings


He picked up for me a full cross member with the mounts, and did all the prep work on it, removing the old bushing pressing in the custom fitted insert and then pressing in the new ES bushings, jacked up my car dropped down my cross member and installed the replacement ... and mine became the cross member to be re-fitted for the next guy.

My engine sits in like a rock now under full load and all the power is now sent straight to the wheel and ground, no more wheel hop ... this for me was one of the best performance mod and was done with great craftsmanship by knight_yyz
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