iOwn615

So my brother has a turbo on his 97 SE, and has 180k miles on it. I have a 98 GXE 5spd swap with 215k miles on it. My question is, with mine having 215k miles in it, is it worth adding a turbo? I have a cold air injen intake right now.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

How much money are you willing to throw away?

Personally if i was set on boosting a maxima id sell that one and buy one with less miles.

iOwn615

I'd like to spend $2,000 at most.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Forget it. This is not a civic there is no ebay kit. Just do bolt ons.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

215k miles? cryo treat it and you'll be set.

Cutler

iTrader: (3)

Throw a 200 shot on it with 22s

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Compression test it, if it is good then do it. Motors are around $500, and maximas are fun to drive on boost.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Your dumping more $$ into the car then it's current value and the return is next to nothing.
Not a smart decision.

Save your hard earned $$ and buy a newer car. They perform better, have more technology and will give you better value for the money you spend on it.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

New car/newer car will be $300-$400 in payments and insurance payments will be at least half that for full coverage. Strap that on for 5 or more years, makes sense not to invest $2k in a $1500 car...

Nothing wrong with investing in a used car if that is what the person wants to do. If it blows up or breaks, it is a learning experience, but until then pop popcorn.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Sorry Maxgtr, but it's never financially wise to put more money then the current value into a depreciating item. At this stage in the 4th gens age, it's a huge loss. Your only looking at current numbers, not where he could be in 2 or even 5 years if the money is wisely used.

So if he's willing to drive a 15 - 20 year old vehicle for the next few years, continue to dump $$$ into it keeping it on the road only to have an end value of pretty much nothing, then he should go for it.

I stopped putting $$ into my 99 about 8 years ago. Still own it, completely stock with minimal $$ into it to keep it on the road. From the savings over the years I've purchased a brand new loaded Limited Toyota 4 Runner. Had I continued to invest $$ into mods on my Nissan, I would have never purchased the Toyota. I'm way ahead of the game with assets when the 4 Runner is paid for in 3 years. Do the math...

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

well, i'm mostly stock and don't intend to buy a new car anytime soon. rather, i'm swapping vq's this or next summer depending on much louder the timing chain gets. 258.000 and all the op around here say drive it until she dies and then swap a new motor into it. i tend to agree with that. if he wants to do anything, i agree that bolt ons would be a better way to go, under drive pulley, 200 shot, etc., little amount of time and not 2,000 wasted.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I'm sorry but you need atleast 4-5g to properly boost one of these things, forget it. Either finish bolt on or save the money for another car.

4thGenTuner

iTrader: (1)

$2K?


VQ35 swap.


/thread

JoshG

i mean everything u put money into is a loss in a car I mean if u put a couple grand into it to make it look a cool unique ride for the years then why not?, new cars degrade in price everyday, so enjoy the car while u have it. Life doesn't live on forever. Sure new cars has all the fancy technology... but why need that?

just be smart on the amount of money u put into it. don't spend $20k on it.. Couple grand to make it look atleast decent good, is good enough already.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

I'm with Crusher on this one. $2K isn't going to cut it.

Reality sucks

iTrader: (3)

I say do it, ide boost my 245k max in a sec. A good point that was made was that our engines are in fact only 500 used, even built cars break. Have fun and rock out. Its your car, be different. Do it.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

It's a perfect well seasoned motor with plenty of thermal cycles....Pull it and fortify it, rebuild it, to handle plenty of boost, and never look back. High thermally cycled engine are stress relieved already and make for stronger assemblies....People pay big money to thermally relieve a new block....Hope you got at least $5000-$8000 setting around to play with....buillding the engine right could cost you $2k....

iOwn615

I think I might just keep the cold air intake on and wait a couple years for turbo.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Wait a couple of years on a 16 year old car with 215K miles? I hope you turbo it before the rust takes over the body lol

Also, between a CAI and turbo are a wealth of mods you can discover, like Y-pipe, GAB mod (because there's only one true CAI), spacers, 00VI, mid-pipe, etc.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

http://forums.maxima.org/forced-indu...arger-kit.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...nt-brakes.html

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

yea go ahead and pick one of those up and see how much extra has to go into boosting a maxima.

Injectors? there is $200
Fuel pump? oh another $200
modding the oil pan for a return line? $50
Tuning? well depending on what you get and who does it $400-800
piping&intercooler? ebay stuffz $200 Good stuffz +600
Gauges? Prosport for just the essential gauges(boost+wideband) your out $120

Im up around $1200 taking the cheap route and thats on top of buying one of those S/C kits, and this is before getting to the fact he is on a stock exhuast, Stock exhuast, and for boost the cheap $150 ebay header and y-pipe combo will NOT be sufficient he needs the OBX headers or atleast a solid built 2.5" y-pipe for an S/C. Boost will nickle and dime you to the point of no return. For somebody who only has only CAI on their car and seems to hardly know what they are talking about? Yea-no, finish bolt-ons like everybody else and go from there. Imagine, a boosted maxima on stock brakes and suspension.....

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

For a supercharger kit you can run on stock injectors with the FMU but if you want injectors they are less than $100. Fuel pump, same thing you can run on stock pump but if you want to upgrade to a walbro 255HP they're less than $100 new. Oil feed is just a t-fitting where the oil pressure sensor is installed and oil return is a simple tube going to the water pump cover. Tuning, don't need it if you have a FMU, but again if you want to upgrade a VAFC2 will take care of that and they cost about $150 used and tunning ranges from $80-$350. Intercooler not needed but if you want one they are about $150 new with piping and couplers. Look at potatoeheads card, stock plus boosted and putting down power like a brand new STI! DIY turbo builds can be done for the same amount. Although if you don't know what you're doing then you can't afford to be boosted.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Well i challenge you to build a boosted car for 2Gs, especially a turbo car on stock injectors&pump i'd love to see it. And on a VAFC. You are going to be Ebay King around here.

Like i said again a PROPERLY boosted car will set you back about 5-6Gs.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

If you get a used kit, it will be around 2k. It is not impossible. If someone has a knack for working on their own car and doing research it is all possible. I know because I did it.
Intercooler pipes and feed pipe fabricated for $1500. I sold i/c (Mishimoto) and piping for $200 shipped. Downpipe connection was $180 at a muffler shop (thieves).
Masterpower t3/t4 turbo was $560 shipped, on sale with feed line and t for $400 shipped.
Emanage blue with all harnesses $350 and support tool, sold for $180 shipped.
Walbro is $90, I got 370cc injectors for $200 they are cheaper now.
A wideband kit is around $150-$180 new. This is all name brand stuff.
IIRC my whole set up was around $3k-3500.

So my used items sold/on sale for $1k. I tuned it myself by constant reading, research,trial and error. The vq30 is a tough motor, fairly forgiving to learn on, I never dogged it, just took my time and checked the logs and made adjustments. An egt would be good to help tune also. On the 350z forums they have the same discussions with people saying don't turbo it after 60K..

deathwobble

iTrader: (1)

Save up (it's going to be more then 2k to boost this, it's not a civic) play with it till it blows, get a used vq30 (you can pick them up pretty cheap) put new/used vq30 in the car and repeat

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

My 3.0 blew on me today. 3.5 time.

And there is no way this kid is building a turbo kit for 3-3.5K just not happening. I mean your setup that you just said came to 3660 all added up. My setup is sitting at 7G with all the "special" extra stuff i have going on in my car.

btw you did get robbed on that downpipe jesus, i spent $300 on mine and that was the dumptube, downpipe, and the whole damn exhuast, 3" piping and all.

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Yeah they robbed me, but only thing I could do is risk a ticket trying to drive to another muffler shop with a non connected downpipe. It sounds like driving with no exhaust at all, I just bit the bullet and wanted it over with.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Crusher it is possible. But I've spent so much time researching this, that makes it possible. I will be able to show you this magical unicorn turbo setup once I get my car running and then I will continue down the boosted path and get a nice turbo from the junkyard and take it all apart, make it a hybrid, do it all myself, and then I can show you proof. Till then you just have to look at other builds as I did to learn. It's been done plenty of times. BTW for those worried about high mileage engines: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...00k-miles.html Obviously if your old engine is in good shape you can boost it. Maintenance is very important firstly and is key to having a happy engine. Tuning is what makes it or breaks it. For example, my new daily 97 se 5spd I wouldn't boost because it's been neglected. Oil leaks and tons of parts need to be freshened up, fixed, or replaced. Now my 99 well that had 50k miles on it and was like brand new. Now I have moved on to a 97 gle which has close to 200k miles but it's in really healthy shape. Not even no door sag. And you want to laugh at a vafc2? One of my main inspirations. built in a tiny backyard in nyc and it's on a vafc2, not dyno tuned at all, underdog vq30, and a measily supercharger and not even a beastly turbo: and R.I.P. BIsh.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Your talking to somebody who is building a turbo car not just researching them. Nobody is questioning the engine mileage but the cost. The cost is what im saying is not cheap, anything is possible with money. I can give you a list of all the parts i have had to buy and you can go find cheapest of the cheap options and you still wouldnt be under $2000.

To take a maxima from just a CAI to full on boost.....yea dont get me started on the components on the car that have to be strength modified or changed to support the added power.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

You're right. Don't do it.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

It can be done but investing that money into a high mileage "as is" motor (Wornout) results in an oil burner and possible internal engine damage if things aren't fortified for reliable performance under boost....it's easier to stretch a rod bolt, spin a bearing, blow a headgasket, etc.....Can it be done yes (Half A$$)!!! Will it deliver reliable transportation interstate travel with confidence, I DOUBT IT SERIOUSLY...

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Since you are looking to boost your car and im bored enough this morning(). i dunno the status of your car exactly but.

Yes i do laugh at V/SAFC tuned boost cars. DO NOT TUNE ON A V/SAFC. No long term or serious boosted car on this forum is tuned on a V/SAFC. At the very least an emanage blue. They can be had for just as cheap as an AFC and the tuning parameters especially after you upgrade it to the emanage gold, it FAR exceed what the AFCs can do it. I do not how many stories there are especially in the honda world people washing out their piston rings trying to be cheap and using a VAFC to tune on.

In NC here we have/had S/C'd monsters running around that were street tuned. I knew the owners of them and Aaron92se and his VQ35 swapped max did a better job street tuning his car than dyno tuning it. Street tuning in itself is fine if you have the data logging equipment etc but the fine tuning that can be done on a dyno should never be ignored. The emanage has the ability to tune itself which is another added plus.

JY turbos are somewhat ok, dont get a beat up POS because it will be cheap and try to restore it. Holset usually are all over the place but cost atleast 300 for a decent +HX35(NOT H1C etc). Seriously you get what you pay for.

So if you do plan to turbo things i can tell you is forget a VAFC you are not bolt-on anymore you need a more sophisticated engine management. IF you want to have a car that will last on boost you will need atleast 5G to be on the safe side to get all the parts you will need. Because we have not even addressed the drivetrain, clutch&flywheel upgrades you will blow a stock clutch to pieces on boost. Autos you gotta make sure those valve bodies can take the beating and you have a way to keep the thing nice and cool.

Because things that are being overlooked such as no maxima should be boosted on stock suspension or brakes. We are doubling some of us tripling the designed output of the car. At the very least a substantial pad fluid upgrade, but Q45 or better brakes and a more aggressive spring&shock setup. A decent set of coil overs is highly recommend though. But all these are things that should be done at the bolt on stage so its why i say finish bolt ons, things like Widebands, Emanages for tuning, etc, all done at bolt on stages. That lowers the cost when it comes to boosting. So even you finish bolt ons. Then decide on boost. But all bolt-ons themselves are way past 2Gs.

Long poAst

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

If a majority of people worried about what would break or won't work out then no one would boost. I'm glad I did my research when purchasing parts and tuning, now I know how to build one reliably for around $2k if I had to do it over again.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Thank you. Btw crusher I've got wilwood two piece rotors, superlite calipers, JIC coilovers, jdm 3 piece wheels, emanage ultimate, svt cobra injectors, walbro 255 fuel pump and it's the HP model which doesn't drop pressure when you push it, cattman headers with equal lenght y-pipe and fast-cat, still need to come up with the cat-back at least a 3", 6spd swap in the works only about one or two pieces missing, etc. I've done my research. Oh and jy turbo is $50, doesn't matter what it is. Not trying to compete or show who or what is better, just saying if there's a will, there's a way.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

The turbo 99 may not need a resonator the turbo acts as a diffuser with exhaust noise reducing it quite a bit!

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Did I miss your build thread?

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

What turbo do you plan to run, what are your power goals? Remember the size of turbo that works well on this car are very popular finding a good one in a JY will be a challenge. Your better off buying a used one that you know is working then rebuilding it.

and which cobra injectors you have, not all of them are built equally. the pre 03 cobras have 24lbs injectors, IIRC that is the same size as the stock 4th gen injectors . the 03-04 have 39lbs injectors which are the equivalent to 400cc.

You have a feedpipe and downpipe in mind? If your on coils and quite low like myself then you have to bay close attention to what setup you run. My kit was specifically designed to not give me clearance issues.

As far as a 6spd is concerned your gonna be set back about 1-1.5G when all is said and done. Unfortunately the 6spd has much more expensive flywheel and clutches than the normal 5spd. But the +04 SpecV route is the cheapest, get that trans, the maxima bellhousing/clutchplate, shifter&trim, shifter cables, motor mount and axles. The +04 has longer gears(4.1FD) than the 02-03(4.4FD). The 02-03 maxima trans would be the best it has the longest gearing out of the 6sp(3.8FD), but finding one with a lsd......very hard and very expensive.

So no competition just dont go in without knowing the facts and im letting you know what to expect. Some people can get boost done for less, but if you want to have everything go smoothly yea expect extra expenses, for one intercooler piping, that stuff needs to be welded eventually.

maximasicilian123

What kind of gain are you looking for

viking89

Do not turbo your POS 16 year old 4th gen maxima man... drive it stock until it explodes and buy a new, better car

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...questions.html
Chronicals the'99SE auto. Now all that has been swapped to a '97GLE auto. I will update it when I get to start working on it again. BTW: Parting out that 99se in classifieds.



I plan to run a holset HX series turbo but a hybrid. I'm going to match the housings and impellers to my needs. I can get turbo's for $50 from the junkyard and I've seen a huge garrett that looked almost new just saying. My turbo even if it costs $50 I will not leave it alone. I have the mod bug. So I'd have to change impellers and housings etc. A housing for one side can cost $300 so I'm fully aware of what things can turn into if you let them.

My power goals will be 600-7ish hp but this I will do on a modified engine. Just basics such as pistons and rods but I will include upgraded items such as the bearings and perhaps a girdle. This is still in the planning stages so things will change but I do want cams and depending on my budget, head work.

About the injectors. I have the blue 39lb ones, a.k.a. blue giants I believe, that were documented by our fellow org member. Actually they are 39lbs but they run 'em on lower pressure so at our 43.5psi they become 440cc. I bought them used but in like new condition from a mustang forum for ~$85 shipped for eight of them. I sent out six to witch hunter to be tested, cleaned, and rebuilt to my specs such as using the correct o-ring to fit my 2000-2001 variable intake manifold swap fuel rail. I couldv'e gotten away with using them as is since they were in such good condition as the flow sheet proved but I wanted peace of mind because I know better so I'd kick myself later if one happened to be clogged.

For my feed pipe I like the setup shown on the org by a fellow member where they used RWD vq35 tubular headers cut at the flanges and swapped over so both are facing towards the drivers side on a fwd maxima.

The down pipe I can't remember off the top of my head but whatever doesn't cause clearance issues as I drive my cars on public roads.

As far as the 6spd is concerend I want to open it up and have a helical lsd and the best FD etc. (btw thanks ackshun for your contribution to the forum with your descriptive pictures and research) so that's in the works but I bought a used 6spd trans non-(h)lsd from a org member in massachussets and picked it up for about $250 which started my manual parts swap gathering. I priced the 6spd swap out and was ready to spend $3,000 on it but then I started shopping around. Visited a junkyard and bought a complete shifter for ~$50 but they wanted a grand for the motor and a grand for the trans and wouldn't sell me the mounts, cables, axles, and flywheel unless I bought both so I left with just the shifter. Then I planned a run to the jy with a buddy to get parts for his eclipse gs-t and perhaps look for 6spd parts which is never going to happen lol, we know how rare that'd be, and on that day before we went we stopped at a org members house to pick up a ralco 6spd shorter shift angle bracket thingy, some drilled aluminum pedals, leds, a weighted ****, and some other little things for ~$75. Before I got a chance to start asking about his car my friend asked if he was parting his '02 3.5 6spd SE and he said yes. Long story short I got the engine, trans, es solid mounts, nismo oil cap, axles, trans, cables, etc. all for $350 Dropped the motor/trans in his garage using two jacks even though I had a brand new shiny engine hoist. It was quicker and easier. You could say $3k worth of parts but I promised him a ride in the beast though. Oh and for now I'm going to run a water to air barrel intecoor on my supercharged 3.0 6spd with ice reservoir but when I pull the stock vq30+"dek" motor out and put the beast motor in and switch to turbo I'll go with a front mount air to air intercooler. I'm also going to run meth on the sc+motor setup and will transfer that to the turbo+new motor setup. Did I mention I have a wet NOS kit too? Perhaps I can use it to spool the turbo or turn it into an intercooler sprayer. Now you can tell how much I've been on this forum alone. I've pretty much went over everyones setup and took out the best things they've done and saved them to use on my setup. I'm trying to replicate 400whp on the sc3.0 setup and higher hp on the slightly built 3.5T. Now I know this is useless and stupid on a fwd. All you really need is a vq30, VI manifold, exhaust and you're flying. Add to that a little extended revs, spray, cams, whatever.. and you're really having fun on the cheap but I'm doing this for fun so that should answer any doubtful questions.

Best advice ever! Seriously. Most people get into modding their cars and it turns into a disaster. Stick to maintenance, not getting intakes and mufflers and stupid crap. Only one problem, a vq doesn't die! lol