stromm

iTrader: (1)

So for about two months, every so often on a "first start" the engine would try to catch and then not. Next twist of the key and it'd fire right up. Not all the time and never a CIL. Ran great once it started. I do have a small bit of timing chain noise. My wife can't here it but I can. The starter is factory original with 160,000.


This morning, I go out and turn the key and it tried to start, "chugged" and then died. No clang, no clunk, no thud. Just a chug like when there's bad fuel and it shuddered and died. All in about three seconds total time.

Tried the key again and "ZZZZZZZZEEEEEEE". That's my translation of what I think is the starter spinning freely. Never heard that noise from this car. Been too long for me to remember if that's the noise I've heard in the past when the solenoid goes bad.

So here's my question. If the timing chain broken, would the starter still make that noise or would there be enough resistance on it for it not to?

Anotherfew . Is one parts store starter better than another? Should I forego Advance's reman brand and get a twice the price new Denso?

bprice92

iTrader: (2)

Yeah definitely replace the starter. Mine went out around the same age around 170k.
Highly unlikely the timing chain has busted.

AutoZone sells rebuilt units with a lifetime warranty, might be a good option.

Timing chain noise ~ replace the primary tensioner

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

+1 on the starter. Mine acted much the same way before it died. Reman starter is fine not worth buying a new one.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Autozone rebuilt starters have a very "spotty" track record when it come to quality. A lot of org members have had problems with them, both DOA and needing replacing in less than a year.

But where ever you decide to buy it from, make sure the gear has 11 teeth, not 8, not 10.

BenL

If you go with an AutoZone reman go with one for a 2000 Maxima (P/N 17734). It's 11-tooth just like the DLG17734 (100% new) listed for our 4th gens (reman listed for our's is 17232, 10-tooth) w/o adding much if anything to the cost.

stromm

iTrader: (1)

Oh boy. So I'm feeling enough unsure about the starter being the problem, that I am holding off on starting to tear thing apart.

Here's why.

The starter is turning the motor over. All the belts move and pretty darn fast too.

So I listen for the fuel pump under the back seat and can hear it prime. The battery tests good, I even used my wife's brand new battery in place of the one in the car.

Man, now I'm completely unsure. I guess I'm gonna have to check fuses and relays.

So here's the new question.

With a multimeter, how the heck do I test a relay?

Also, could the ignition switch at the back of the key cylinder do this?

Understanding the car had been presenting first start issues, does that help narrow down my options?

Thanks again guys.

stromm

iTrader: (1)

Doh on the teeth!

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the starter is fine.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ape-trick.html

stromm

iTrader: (1)

I just happen to have a new one sitting on my work bench.

So, just to clarify...

When I turn the key all the way, there's no "dead spot" or hesitation before the starter starts to spin.

Can a bad ignition switch spin the starter but not activate something else like...?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

On my car it would crank over just fine, however the ECU would not get power from the ignition circuit of the switch. Other members here have tried new switches, but still had enough slop between the lock cylinder and switch that it would not start.
Sometimes mine would start but sputter for a bit, other times it would take 5 tries to start at all. An easy test is to remove the switch and use a screw driver to turn it. If it starts and runs fine you may need to shim it.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ion+tape+trick

hahanoise

This sounds similar to my problem with my 97 GLE, except it takes 10-15 "first starts" or more to get the engine going and sometimes when I turn the key just... nothing happens. No noise of any kind. That and if/when I finally do get it started the needle will drop back to 0 and I can hear the engine shutting off, then it picks back up and sounds normal, then back off, then back to normal, then off, then on, then off, then on every 2 seconds.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

There are other possible causes for the problem you describe but the starter is by far the most likely. The symptoms you describe are classic for a bad starter. Especially after 160K on the original.

The starter is pretty easy to change. I would install a new/reman one and check the result. I believe you can return the starter and get your money back if it does not fix the problem.

Drag0n97

iTrader: (4)

ck grounds and or add one if the starter is bad go to autozone or advance and get em tested c how fast it goes out to turn if it doesnt pop right out dont buy it go to nissan and get one

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Does it still sound like this while the engine is spinning over?

stromm

iTrader: (1)

Yep. ZZZZZEEEEE. At least from the driver's seat. In front with the hood up, it's a bit different tone. No sounds of ignition or combustion I can hear.

box12360

I just had a similar issue. After inspecting the solinoid I found a small black wire that started to come unsodered. My starter would not crank at all and there were no noises. I believe this wire sends the siginal to the solinoid that tell the starterto crank. I made a quick fix by wedging a piece of wire in it until I can get anew.one or resoder it. Hope this helps.

WendysMaxima

I'm having this same problem, just hit 170k and now I think I know the answer! .

stromm

iTrader: (1)

So.

I removed the battery, cleaned all the connections and the battery shows 12.4 volts.

New known good starter installed. No change. Engine turns over, but doesn't start.

I check all the applicable fuse again. All look good. I even swapped a few around and no change.

I got far enough into replacing the ignition switch to be able to plug in the new OEM switch and test it with a screw driver. Engine turns over, but doesn't start.

So I put the lower dash back together and figure I'll look again at relays. Over the front-left wheel is a fuse box and in there is a 30A IGN relay or fuse. Being a GM guy, this isn't a type I'm familiar with. What the heck, I swap it with the the power windows one.

Get back in the car and turn the key. Same thing. Try again, same thing. Try again, it kicked over, chugged and died. Once more I think. It struggled, but started. Sputtering, but stayed running. I shut it off for about 30 seconds and it sluggishly started. Only on the key for 3-4 seconds. Sounds a bit off and smells a bit weird, but it stayed running.

Huh. I leave it run while I put my tools away. 3-4 minutes. It's idled down and seems OK. I shut it off. Start is still sluggish. Not normal, which for my car till Monday was a flick of the key and it'd start right up.

So what do you all think is going on? I can't afford to screw with this for another week. The wife is very annoyed I'm borrowing her car to get to/from work and it's too dark/late to mess with it after work in the driveway.

My brain is saying...

1. Bad battery cell.

2. Failing fuel pump. I'm pretty sure it's the one installed at the factory.

3. Fuel pressure regulator. But how do I test this?

Is there a fuel pressure valve I can connect a gauge to or do I have to put a T-line in?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

A T in the line for FP testing. Any CELs? does the light come on before cranking?

stromm

iTrader: (1)

No CEL. not ven when it failed to start.

DBear

If the starter spins well when you turn the key, it doesn't sound like it's the ignition switch or the starter. My guess would be a sensor of some type. A bad ECTS maybe?

Do you smell gas? Maybe an injector is stuck open and is flooding it?

bobflood

+1 on this; not likely a starter issue. Sounds more like fuel delivery to me.

theWalkinator

Jump the inhibitor relay bin 4&7 and try again.

theWalkinator

Check my thread, I have gone through the whole ordeal to get this sorted: https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=669275

stromm

iTrader: (1)

Good read and I read that earlier. But your issue was different. My starter would spin and even turn over the engine. My engine just never caught.

stromm

iTrader: (1)

Four days and my car still starts, almost as good as it did three months ago.

However, it is a bit rough at idle in and out of gear. That's new.

I'm really thinking fuel pump or regulator now. I can see how either would keep the engine from firing up for days and all of a sudden let it do so but run rough.

Now I just need time to put a gauge on and such.

stromm

iTrader: (1)

So now my car is back to not always starting. Sadly, I just haven't had time to diag more.

I'm still thinking fuel pump or regulator and need to get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up. It idles a bit rough now too. I've had to keep my foot on the pedal a few times, keeping it above 750rpm or it would start chugging and want to die.

Does the pump or regulator sound like a good possibility?

djchan

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you could have two seperate problems here. The first one causing the second one. # 1 - Fuel pressure regulator ( FPR ), classic symptom..never starts on the first, but always on the second. # 2 - Starter solenoid, over cranking led to the demise of a starter that was on the verge of failure anyway. You solved the 2nd problem which still leaves the first one. I always start with the less expensive solutions first. So replace your fuel filter ( unless you know it's good ) then your FPR. If you need to to both, do them at the same time. You can also test your pump then too, and lastly clean your air delivery system while things are apart. MAF, Throttle Body, and ICAV. At 160k all this couldn't hurt, unless it was done recently, then my thery goes out the window... good luck...