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ign switch tape trick

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Old 09-05-2011, 11:23 AM
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ign switch tape trick

Ever since I bought my car it has had times where it would crank but not start. After a year of trying to walk others through there no start problems I decided to something about mine.
I detirmined if I pushed my key upward while cranking, it would fire and run. I pulled my switch and inserted two pieces of tape at the "top" of the upsidedown "T" in the switch. It has started first time every time thus far.
Its only been two days now, I'll keep you all updated.
I believe Dbear had a thread. If anyone could post a link it'd be appreciated.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:08 PM
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I've read others saying that they have used tape or something to get rid of the play in the ignition switch. When my ignition switch started doing this, I replaced it. I opened up the old one and saw that the contacts for the start position had arced and burned.

By taking out the play, this makes the contacts move a little bit more and make a connection past the bad section. What will probably happen eventually is that this small section of contact will also arc and burn. But how long it will take is something I have no way of predicting.

In my case, I cleaned the contacts and put the old switch back in the car. I used it for about 9 months and then I decided to put the new switch back in. I figured that since I had bought the new one, why have it sitting on the shelf.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
I've read others saying that they have used tape or something to get rid of the play in the ignition switch. When my ignition switch started doing this, I replaced it. I opened up the old one and saw that the contacts for the start position had arced and burned.

By taking out the play, this makes the contacts move a little bit more and make a connection past the bad section. What will probably happen eventually is that this small section of contact will also arc and burn. But how long it will take is something I have no way of predicting.

In my case, I cleaned the contacts and put the old switch back in the car. I used it for about 9 months and then I decided to put the new switch back in. I figured that since I had bought the new one, why have it sitting on the shelf.
How did yours look from the outside? Mine didnt look like it had gotten hot or anything. I have seen switches from other vehicles that melted pretty good from bad contacts.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
How did yours look from the outside? Mine didnt look like it had gotten hot or anything. I have seen switches from other vehicles that melted pretty good from bad contacts.
Everything looked perfectly normal from the outside. Arcing, which is another word for sparking, happens anytime you connect 2 wires (or contacts) that are live. Being inside a switch, you just don't see it, but it still happens and it is normal. I think my using the word arcing is making you think of a short circuit situation. But any sparking is going to cause a black crust that doesn't conduct electricity. You clean it off and you're back in business.

If you get ambitious and decide to take your ignition switch apart, there is a spring inside that puts pressure on the contacts. Open it carefully so the spring doesn't go flying.
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Old 09-06-2011, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Ever since I bought my car it has had times where it would crank but not start. After a year of trying to walk others through there no start problems I decided to something about mine.
I detirmined if I pushed my key upward while cranking, it would fire and run. I pulled my switch and inserted two pieces of tape at the "top" of the upsidedown "T" in the switch. It has started first time every time thus far.
Its only been two days now, I'll keep you all updated.
I believe Dbear had a thread. If anyone could post a link it'd be appreciated.
There isn't a single thread. I've mentioned it a few times in "no start" threads. Here's one of the longer ones: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post7075437. My posts are 13 and 18. It looks like the link to the picture is broken. This should work: http://s397.photobucket.com/albums/p...Ignition-1.jpg

Incidentally, when I first had this problem, I replaced the ignition switch early on. But that didn't solve it. It took me quite a while to get back to it as the culprit.
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:08 PM
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Thank you Dbear. I havent had the problem return yet.
Originally Posted by DBear
Incidentally, when I first had this problem, I replaced the ignition switch early on. But that didn't solve it. It took me quite a while to get back to it as the culprit.
So a new switch didnt solve the issue, and it might be a worn lock mechanism? I was talking to a former locksmith friend of mine, and he said it was common to bend the corners of the "T" to reduce slop.

Last edited by asand1; 09-06-2011 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by DBear
Tyro and Music--

Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.

If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
Originally Posted by DBear
Johnny--

Getting the ignition switch out isn't hard, but you should be able to find pictures of that part of the process. Here's what I did to my switch. The grayish thing is the piece of electrical tape that extends down into the slot.
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:25 PM
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asand--

No, the switch didn't solve it. I had to f*** around with it for quite a while after that to figure it out.

I've had it return a couple of times (in 3 or 4 years). Usually I find out that the tape slid off. FWIW, when I have the problem (even originally) I'm always able to get the car to start, but it may take 10 or 15 tries.

I'd be leery about bending the T. IIRC, it didn't look very sturdy.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DBear
asand--
I'd be leery about bending the T. IIRC, it didn't look very sturdy.
No doubt, looks like pot metal. If I have to do it again, Ill try pop can aluminum and glue of some sort.
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:30 PM
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christ, get a used or new one and call it day.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
christ, get a used or new one and call it day.
Did you not read the part about a new switch not fixing the problem?
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
I've read others saying that they have used tape or something to get rid of the play in the ignition switch. When my ignition switch started doing this, I replaced it. I opened up the old one and saw that the contacts for the start position had arced and burned.

By taking out the play, this makes the contacts move a little bit more and make a connection past the bad section. What will probably happen eventually is that this small section of contact will also arc and burn. But how long it will take is something I have no way of predicting.

In my case, I cleaned the contacts and put the old switch back in the car. I used it for about 9 months and then I decided to put the new switch back in. I figured that since I had bought the new one, why have it sitting on the shelf.
I think its more likely that the slop between lock and switch causes the arcing and eventual meltdown. By shimming the switch, a person might save the switch before this happens.
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