starting problem with 96 max
06-09-2009, 12:13 PM
#1
starting problem with 96 max
so my boys maxima is having a hard time starting. When you turn the key it is hesitant when starting. Like when you turn the key, its like 2 seconds before anything even works. What could be wrong
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
Last edited by tigersharkdude; 06-09-2009 at 09:03 PM.
06-09-2009, 12:35 PM
#2
Dude, you of all people should know that we need details and/or you need to search.
CEL's?
If it's cranking, could be a weak starter. If it's not doing anything for 2 seconds, could be a weak alternator.
CEL's?
If it's cranking, could be a weak starter. If it's not doing anything for 2 seconds, could be a weak alternator.
06-09-2009, 12:53 PM
#3
Two threads in a row, not a mention of codes.
2 seconds before what works? Starter? Engine starts up?
If you jiggle the key, does it help?
06-09-2009, 04:55 PM
#4
I will have to look at his car for details. I havent seen first hand what is wrong, only been told. IMO I believe its the ALT, its got a refurbed one that is like 6 months old, I think it was junk from the get go
06-09-2009, 08:14 PM
#5
Yeah I am having the same problems and there were NO codes, only a sudden starting problem.
When I try to start my car there is no sounds but the lights and radio works,
Battery: CHECK
Then after hooking up the jumper cables to another car and letting it charge up a bit if there is anything to charge LOL, my car started up but it was weak,
Starter: CHECK
When I took off the jumper cables and started the car then turn it off and tried again for a couple times it wouldn't start with the same silence that happens when I turn the key all the way
Alternator: POSSIBLE
This is the checklist I used in my head when I tried self-diagnosing the problem, a mechanic said that I might be right. And so I hope my issues and what I did to remedy it will help you as well! If its your alternator going out, I believe a jump start should be a temporary fix until you need to turn it on again. But I am not mechanic and so, its best to listen to what Pmohr has to say LOL
When I try to start my car there is no sounds but the lights and radio works,
Battery: CHECK
Then after hooking up the jumper cables to another car and letting it charge up a bit if there is anything to charge LOL, my car started up but it was weak,
Starter: CHECK
When I took off the jumper cables and started the car then turn it off and tried again for a couple times it wouldn't start with the same silence that happens when I turn the key all the way
Alternator: POSSIBLE
This is the checklist I used in my head when I tried self-diagnosing the problem, a mechanic said that I might be right. And so I hope my issues and what I did to remedy it will help you as well! If its your alternator going out, I believe a jump start should be a temporary fix until you need to turn it on again. But I am not mechanic and so, its best to listen to what Pmohr has to say LOL
06-10-2009, 05:13 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
My 95 Maxima also won't start
My problem is similar. For years, occasionally when you turn the key absolutely nothing happens. Usually, if you keep trying, it will start (and starts well when is starts). The problem is much worse if the car has been parked in the sun. Now it won't start despite many attempts - no better after replacing the battery.
From searching, I'm thinking maybe:
1. starter ground
2. starter connection/wire?
3. maybe bad/weak starter?
(actually this is now my brothers car and he is currently stranded in Tennessee - I can call him to get details if anyone can help)
Thanks
From searching, I'm thinking maybe:
1. starter ground
2. starter connection/wire?
3. maybe bad/weak starter?
(actually this is now my brothers car and he is currently stranded in Tennessee - I can call him to get details if anyone can help)
Thanks
06-10-2009, 05:27 PM
#8
My problem is similar. For years, occasionally when you turn the key absolutely nothing happens. Usually, if you keep trying, it will start (and starts well when is starts). The problem is much worse if the car has been parked in the sun. Now it won't start despite many attempts - no better after replacing the battery.
From searching, I'm thinking maybe:
1. starter ground
2. starter connection/wire?
3. maybe bad/weak starter?
(actually this is now my brothers car and he is currently stranded in Tennessee - I can call him to get details if anyone can help)
Thanks
From searching, I'm thinking maybe:
1. starter ground
2. starter connection/wire?
3. maybe bad/weak starter?
(actually this is now my brothers car and he is currently stranded in Tennessee - I can call him to get details if anyone can help)
Thanks
Yeah I am having the same problems and there were NO codes, only a sudden starting problem.
When I try to start my car there is no sounds but the lights and radio works,
Battery: CHECK
Then after hooking up the jumper cables to another car and letting it charge up a bit if there is anything to charge LOL, my car started up but it was weak,
Starter: CHECK
When I took off the jumper cables and started the car then turn it off and tried again for a couple times it wouldn't start with the same silence that happens when I turn the key all the way
Alternator: POSSIBLE
This is the checklist I used in my head when I tried self-diagnosing the problem, a mechanic said that I might be right. And so I hope my issues and what I did to remedy it will help you as well! If its your alternator going out, I believe a jump start should be a temporary fix until you need to turn it on again. But I am not mechanic and so, its best to listen to what Pmohr has to say LOL
When I try to start my car there is no sounds but the lights and radio works,
Battery: CHECK
Then after hooking up the jumper cables to another car and letting it charge up a bit if there is anything to charge LOL, my car started up but it was weak,
Starter: CHECK
When I took off the jumper cables and started the car then turn it off and tried again for a couple times it wouldn't start with the same silence that happens when I turn the key all the way
Alternator: POSSIBLE
This is the checklist I used in my head when I tried self-diagnosing the problem, a mechanic said that I might be right. And so I hope my issues and what I did to remedy it will help you as well! If its your alternator going out, I believe a jump start should be a temporary fix until you need to turn it on again. But I am not mechanic and so, its best to listen to what Pmohr has to say LOL
What about if you jiggle the key around?
so my boys maxima is having a hard time starting. When you turn the key it is hesitant when starting. Like when you turn the key, its like 2 seconds before anything even works. What could be wrong
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
If it's bleeding down that quickly, every seal ahead of the filter comes into play for possible leakage. If it also seems like it's trying to fire for a second, it could also be an injector or injector o-ring leaking into a cylinder. That would both cause the leakdown, and the hard start.
06-10-2009, 06:16 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
reply
My brother is stranded in a small town near Martin, TN with his daughter; he's trying to get back to his campground they are staying for the week.
It will not jump off
In a sense, wiggling the key may have helped in the past, but not now.
Again, the key is that it either starts well, or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key (no sound). Unfortunately, nothing happens this time despite many attempts.
Does this sound like a weak starter now gone bad?
(I don't mean to hijack this thread, if it is better, I can start a new one - very similar problem though)
It will not jump off
In a sense, wiggling the key may have helped in the past, but not now.
Again, the key is that it either starts well, or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key (no sound). Unfortunately, nothing happens this time despite many attempts.
Does this sound like a weak starter now gone bad?
(I don't mean to hijack this thread, if it is better, I can start a new one - very similar problem though)
06-10-2009, 06:23 PM
#10
My brother is stranded in a small town near Martin, TN with his daughter; he's trying to get back to his campground they are staying for the week.
It will not jump off
In a sense, wiggling the key may have helped in the past, but not now.
Again, the key is that it either starts well, or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key (no sound). Unfortunately, nothing happens this time despite many attempts.
Does this sound like a weak starter now gone bad?
(I don't mean to hijack this thread, if it is better, I can start a new one - very similar problem though)
It will not jump off
In a sense, wiggling the key may have helped in the past, but not now.
Again, the key is that it either starts well, or absolutely nothing happens when you turn the key (no sound). Unfortunately, nothing happens this time despite many attempts.
Does this sound like a weak starter now gone bad?
(I don't mean to hijack this thread, if it is better, I can start a new one - very similar problem though)
06-11-2009, 12:12 PM
#11
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
I am having similar starting problem that I need some helpful suggestions. I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE.
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
06-11-2009, 01:13 PM
#12
I am having similar starting problem that I need some helpful suggestions. I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE.
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
Probably just needs an adjustment.
06-11-2009, 02:28 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
Tyro and Music--
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
Last edited by DBear; 06-11-2009 at 10:51 PM.
06-12-2009, 01:11 AM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 25
Tyro and Music--
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
06-12-2009, 01:41 AM
#15
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...on-switch.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...on-switch.html
...etc.
06-14-2009, 10:12 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
Johnny--
Getting the ignition switch out isn't hard, but you should be able to find pictures of that part of the process. Here's what I did to my switch. The grayish thing is the piece of electrical tape that extends down into the slot.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...00787Large.jpg
Getting the ignition switch out isn't hard, but you should be able to find pictures of that part of the process. Here's what I did to my switch. The grayish thing is the piece of electrical tape that extends down into the slot.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...00787Large.jpg
06-15-2009, 12:59 AM
#19
Turn the headlights on, see if they dim when you're not hearing anything. If all of the dash lights come on nice and solid, bright then it's unlikely to be a battery issue. Have you had the battery load tested? You could do it with nothing more than a multimeter and a helper, but a full on test by an auto parts store or shop would be best.
What about if you jiggle the key around?
Does it get any better if you leave the key in the ON position for a few seconds before trying to crank it?
What about if you jiggle the key around?
Does it get any better if you leave the key in the ON position for a few seconds before trying to crank it?
But now a new symptom is showing up, today I started my car and there was a loud grinding but not like metal breaking or anything, it kind of sounds like when you shift gears while the car is moving which is something I had never heard before, and there was knocking and it loud enough for me to hear but it went away after the car warmed up.
My parents won't let me take the car to get tested because they fear that the car is at a point where its going to die and they don't want me stranded. Or spend money to tow it, LOL. And so... it is going to stay at home until we are ready to take it to a family friend who is a mechanic, who is feel is a total INFIDEL!
06-15-2009, 01:09 AM
#20
Its all the same, all the lights stay on bright when I turn the key all the way. And I just tried the key jiggling and it didn't seem to do anything haha.
But now a new symptom is showing up, today I started my car and there was a loud grinding but not like metal breaking or anything, it kind of sounds like when you shift gears while the car is moving which is something I had never heard before, and there was knocking and it loud enough for me to hear but it went away after the car warmed up.
My parents won't let me take the car to get tested because they fear that the car is at a point where its going to die and they don't want me stranded. Or spend money to tow it, LOL. And so... it is going to stay at home until we are ready to take it to a family friend who is a mechanic, who is feel is a total INFIDEL!
But now a new symptom is showing up, today I started my car and there was a loud grinding but not like metal breaking or anything, it kind of sounds like when you shift gears while the car is moving which is something I had never heard before, and there was knocking and it loud enough for me to hear but it went away after the car warmed up.
My parents won't let me take the car to get tested because they fear that the car is at a point where its going to die and they don't want me stranded. Or spend money to tow it, LOL. And so... it is going to stay at home until we are ready to take it to a family friend who is a mechanic, who is feel is a total INFIDEL!
As far as it just plain doing nothing at times, it could be in several places; inhibit relay, PNP switch or circuit, the starter itself, ignition switch, a bad/loose connection, etc.
06-15-2009, 01:14 AM
#21
Just sounds like the timing chain tensioner not holding oil pressure, letting the chain slap the guide(s).
As far as it just plain doing nothing at times, it could be in several places; inhibit relay, PNP switch or circuit, the starter itself, ignition switch, a bad/loose connection, etc.
As far as it just plain doing nothing at times, it could be in several places; inhibit relay, PNP switch or circuit, the starter itself, ignition switch, a bad/loose connection, etc.
But, the problem started when I got that fender bender, and so I am now especially angry, and tomorrow I am going to go through my car looking around to see if anything came loose. Then I'll report back. Thanks! haha
06-15-2009, 01:06 PM
#23
I just checked, and my positive cable is kind of rusty, there is one part of it that is not protected by the black plastic that wraps around the whole thing which connects to the thingy that connects to the battery terminal haha
Sorry don't know what the thing that goes on the terminals are called, I think they're clamps but....
Sorry don't know what the thing that goes on the terminals are called, I think they're clamps but....
06-15-2009, 05:10 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: BC Canada
Posts: 71
so my boys maxima is having a hard time starting. When you turn the key it is hesitant when starting. Like when you turn the key, its like 2 seconds before anything even works. What could be wrong
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
::EDIT:: After not getting far with his details, I went to check it out. The car does crank off the bat, you just hear the alt crank like 10 times. Its got a new alt and battery. It only does this after the car has set for a few hours(2 or more). Im leaning towards the fuel pressure regulator. What do yall think??
06-17-2009, 01:52 PM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
98 Maxima SE starting problems
I am having similar starting problem that I need some helpful suggestions. I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima SE.
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
I have had a problem with it not starting. This problem will happen only a few times each year. When I turn the key, nothing happens...no click, no turning of the motor or anything. (it has a new battery and alternator)
I learned from another Maxima owner that he had the same problem. He told me to turn the key to where the radio would come on, pull the automatic gear to 1st, and back to park, and then it should crank. So over the years, I would do this, and it would fix it almost every time.
One time, this would not work, so I got out the car, shut the doors and locked them, and then unlocked them,....and then it cranked right up.
But now, my tricks are not working to fix it. When it won't crank, I will have to leave it for a day or two, and then, for whatever reason, it will crank like nothing was ever wrong.
Does anyone know what this problem is, and what I need to do to fix it? Could it be the starter, or the neutral safety switch, or something to do with the factory security system? I need some suggestions and ideas.
Thanks!
So now I have some more symptoms. It started in the mornings, but not in the afternoon...so this may be like those of you who said yours wouldn't start when it was hot. Are there any others out there whose wouldn't start in the heat?
Also, I got it started in the morning again, and drove it home. At home, I turned it off, and started it right back up with no problems. I did this immediatly again, and it started, but a little bit slower. Tried again a third time, and nothing. No sound at all....except for the slightest click that sounded inside the car around the fuse box.
Then I waited about 5 minutes, and tried again, and this time, the engine cranked slowly, and was struggling,...but never cranked up, or never turned the car on. The head lights and dash are as bright as can be. So this is the very first time this has ever happened. In years past, it has either cranked perfectly, or nothing at all.
Does anyone out there have any ideas on this? Could it be the starter? Ignition switch? Bad battery cable to starter? Neutral safety switch?
06-17-2009, 03:33 PM
#28
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
More updates on the 98 Maxima SE with starting problems:
I just got home from work and tried to start it, and it did, just fine...but maybe with a slight slowness in the cranking. I drove it around the block, and then parked it. I then tried to start it again, and it did. I turned it off, waited about 10 seconds, and tried again, and it turned very slowly, but would not crank. (headlights are still bright as can be)
As I have thought some more about this, I can recall a little slowness in the cranking over the last 6 months, but I never thought much about it and kept driving it. Also, over the last 6 months, I also remember hearing a loud winding sound from the starter (I suppose) as soon as the car cranks up. This sound usually lasts for about 1-2 seconds after startup. It kind of sounds like when you would keep holding the key all the way to start, even after the car is running.
So,...with these new symptoms, does this sound like it may need a new starter?? Any ideas or helpful suggestions? Thanks!
I just got home from work and tried to start it, and it did, just fine...but maybe with a slight slowness in the cranking. I drove it around the block, and then parked it. I then tried to start it again, and it did. I turned it off, waited about 10 seconds, and tried again, and it turned very slowly, but would not crank. (headlights are still bright as can be)
As I have thought some more about this, I can recall a little slowness in the cranking over the last 6 months, but I never thought much about it and kept driving it. Also, over the last 6 months, I also remember hearing a loud winding sound from the starter (I suppose) as soon as the car cranks up. This sound usually lasts for about 1-2 seconds after startup. It kind of sounds like when you would keep holding the key all the way to start, even after the car is running.
So,...with these new symptoms, does this sound like it may need a new starter?? Any ideas or helpful suggestions? Thanks!
06-17-2009, 06:04 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
Thanks
Tyro and Music--
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
Pull the ignition switch, to the point where you unscrew it from the housing, but keep it connected. Then try to start the car by putting the key or a screwdriver in the slot in the ignition switch. If that doesn't work, it's probably the ignition switch gone bad.
If it does work, you probably just have some slop between the ignition switch and the flange on the steering column. All you have to do is shim that slot a bit. I put a small piece of electrical tape into one end of the slot, and brought the other end of the tape down onto the side of the switch. That fixed it. (I've started perfectly for a year and a half.) But I've heard that someone put tape on the flange itself, and that worked too.
06-17-2009, 06:15 PM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
reply
So now I have some more symptoms. It started in the mornings, but not in the afternoon...so this may be like those of you who said yours wouldn't start when it was hot. Are there any others out there whose wouldn't start in the heat?
Also, I got it started in the morning again, and drove it home. At home, I turned it off, and started it right back up with no problems. I did this immediatly again, and it started, but a little bit slower. Tried again a third time, and nothing. No sound at all....except for the slightest click that sounded inside the car around the fuse box.
Then I waited about 5 minutes, and tried again, and this time, the engine cranked slowly, and was struggling,...but never cranked up, or never turned the car on. The head lights and dash are as bright as can be. So this is the very first time this has ever happened. In years past, it has either cranked perfectly, or nothing at all.
Does anyone out there have any ideas on this? Could it be the starter? Ignition switch? Bad battery cable to starter? Neutral safety switch?
Also, I got it started in the morning again, and drove it home. At home, I turned it off, and started it right back up with no problems. I did this immediatly again, and it started, but a little bit slower. Tried again a third time, and nothing. No sound at all....except for the slightest click that sounded inside the car around the fuse box.
Then I waited about 5 minutes, and tried again, and this time, the engine cranked slowly, and was struggling,...but never cranked up, or never turned the car on. The head lights and dash are as bright as can be. So this is the very first time this has ever happened. In years past, it has either cranked perfectly, or nothing at all.
Does anyone out there have any ideas on this? Could it be the starter? Ignition switch? Bad battery cable to starter? Neutral safety switch?
06-17-2009, 06:23 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 247
bad link
Johnny--
Getting the ignition switch out isn't hard, but you should be able to find pictures of that part of the process. Here's what I did to my switch. The grayish thing is the piece of electrical tape that extends down into the slot.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...00787Large.jpg
Getting the ignition switch out isn't hard, but you should be able to find pictures of that part of the process. Here's what I did to my switch. The grayish thing is the piece of electrical tape that extends down into the slot.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...00787Large.jpg
06-17-2009, 06:35 PM
#32
My car was doing the same thing awhile back, it would start when I got a jump, but sometimes it would just die, everything would go dead. Sometimes it would crank slow, etc. The problem was fixed after I cleaned the battery terminals. Over time I think residue can build up (not corrosion) and not cause a good connection. They were tight and looked physically connected but would act up, sometimes start, sometimes not. I took a little sandpaper to the clamps and battery terminals, problem solved.
More updates on the 98 Maxima SE with starting problems:
I just got home from work and tried to start it, and it did, just fine...but maybe with a slight slowness in the cranking. I drove it around the block, and then parked it. I then tried to start it again, and it did. I turned it off, waited about 10 seconds, and tried again, and it turned very slowly, but would not crank. (headlights are still bright as can be)
As I have thought some more about this, I can recall a little slowness in the cranking over the last 6 months, but I never thought much about it and kept driving it. Also, over the last 6 months, I also remember hearing a loud winding sound from the starter (I suppose) as soon as the car cranks up. This sound usually lasts for about 1-2 seconds after startup. It kind of sounds like when you would keep holding the key all the way to start, even after the car is running.
So,...with these new symptoms, does this sound like it may need a new starter?? Any ideas or helpful suggestions? Thanks!
I just got home from work and tried to start it, and it did, just fine...but maybe with a slight slowness in the cranking. I drove it around the block, and then parked it. I then tried to start it again, and it did. I turned it off, waited about 10 seconds, and tried again, and it turned very slowly, but would not crank. (headlights are still bright as can be)
As I have thought some more about this, I can recall a little slowness in the cranking over the last 6 months, but I never thought much about it and kept driving it. Also, over the last 6 months, I also remember hearing a loud winding sound from the starter (I suppose) as soon as the car cranks up. This sound usually lasts for about 1-2 seconds after startup. It kind of sounds like when you would keep holding the key all the way to start, even after the car is running.
So,...with these new symptoms, does this sound like it may need a new starter?? Any ideas or helpful suggestions? Thanks!
06-17-2009, 07:05 PM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9
I had a starting problem with a '98 that tough to solve... here was my post explaining the fix:
I have solved my starting problem and it was caused by multiple components but the issues to look for that are hard to trouble shoot are:
1) Intermittant failure of the Inhibit (starter) relay... nissan part-25230-c9962.
2) Rebuilt starter/solenoid with intermittant failures.
A new starter and relay has it starting reliably.
Also found in this fiasco that the battery was not always fully charged... the problem was an alternator that usually put out 12.1 volts instead of the 14.2 it should produce. A new alternator (and used new belts) silved this problem.
1) Intermittant failure of the Inhibit (starter) relay... nissan part-25230-c9962.
2) Rebuilt starter/solenoid with intermittant failures.
A new starter and relay has it starting reliably.
Also found in this fiasco that the battery was not always fully charged... the problem was an alternator that usually put out 12.1 volts instead of the 14.2 it should produce. A new alternator (and used new belts) silved this problem.
06-17-2009, 07:40 PM
#34
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
I'm not sure exactly what the problem is. I'm almost tempted to replace the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay.
It is strange that there are so many Maxima owners who are having the same strange starting problems over the years, but it seems like there is no consistent fix or answer???
06-18-2009, 11:47 AM
#35
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 9
So did you replace the starter and the relay yourself? If so, was it hard to do? I have never done this job....but I have some friends who could possibly help me. Is this a do it yourself type of job?
I'm not sure exactly what the problem is. I'm almost tempted to replace the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay.
It is strange that there are so many Maxima owners who are having the same strange starting problems over the years, but it seems like there is no consistent fix or answer???
I'm not sure exactly what the problem is. I'm almost tempted to replace the ignition switch, the neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay.
It is strange that there are so many Maxima owners who are having the same strange starting problems over the years, but it seems like there is no consistent fix or answer???
The starter may take a few hours the first time but it is not all that difficult. Now that I have done it once I can do it in less than an hour.
With a multi-meter you can test the ignition and neutral switch.
The relay was the thing so hard for me to figure out but I found a very old post on the net that rumored that Nissan recommended replacement for any 4th gen starter problem.
06-18-2009, 12:48 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
06-19-2009, 08:17 AM
#37
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
1.) use multimeter to check ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and possibly starter relay and starter if I need to.
2.) check all battery cables going to starter, and ground and sand them and clean them, and secure all connections
3.) Use the suggestion about pulling the ignition switch out and using screwdriver to try to crank. If it works, then I will try to do the electrical tape thing.
4.) Possibly buy new ignition switch.
5.) If none of the above has it up and running, I gues I will try to replace the stater and starter relay. (are there any other parts to the starter that I may need to buy,...or do I just buy the starter and relay??)
Ok,...I need some suggestions as to if I should buy the origional nissan parts for either the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay....or should I just go up to Auto Zone, Advanced, or Napa? Does it make a difference?? I don't know much about cars, so I would appreciate some advice.
If you can give some suggestions, please read all my posts above to give you an idea of what is going on with my car.
Thanks,
Jeremy
06-19-2009, 01:51 PM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
Ok, thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I guess this afternoon and weekend, I am going to use your suggestions in this order to try to get it up and running:
1.) use multimeter to check ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and possibly starter relay and starter if I need to.
2.) check all battery cables going to starter, and ground and sand them and clean them, and secure all connections
3.) Use the suggestion about pulling the ignition switch out and using screwdriver to try to crank. If it works, then I will try to do the electrical tape thing.
4.) Possibly buy new ignition switch.
5.) If none of the above has it up and running, I gues I will try to replace the stater and starter relay. (are there any other parts to the starter that I may need to buy,...or do I just buy the starter and relay??)
Ok,...I need some suggestions as to if I should buy the origional nissan parts for either the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay....or should I just go up to Auto Zone, Advanced, or Napa? Does it make a difference?? I don't know much about cars, so I would appreciate some advice.
If you can give some suggestions, please read all my posts above to give you an idea of what is going on with my car.
Thanks,
Jeremy
1.) use multimeter to check ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and possibly starter relay and starter if I need to.
2.) check all battery cables going to starter, and ground and sand them and clean them, and secure all connections
3.) Use the suggestion about pulling the ignition switch out and using screwdriver to try to crank. If it works, then I will try to do the electrical tape thing.
4.) Possibly buy new ignition switch.
5.) If none of the above has it up and running, I gues I will try to replace the stater and starter relay. (are there any other parts to the starter that I may need to buy,...or do I just buy the starter and relay??)
Ok,...I need some suggestions as to if I should buy the origional nissan parts for either the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and the starter and starter relay....or should I just go up to Auto Zone, Advanced, or Napa? Does it make a difference?? I don't know much about cars, so I would appreciate some advice.
If you can give some suggestions, please read all my posts above to give you an idea of what is going on with my car.
Thanks,
Jeremy
I guess I will now check the battery cables going to the starter and the ground. I need to get a multimeter to check some things to...I guess.
Any other helpful suggestions out there?
Thanks!
06-19-2009, 02:13 PM
#39
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
98 Maxima SE Starting problems -relay??
Ok,...I just tried the screwdriver thing with the ignition switch, and still no crank. All I hear when I turn the ignition switch all the way to start is a soft "click" coming from the interior fusebox area. Does that mean that the ignition switch is working, and that it is sending a signal to somewhere?
I guess I will now check the battery cables going to the starter and the ground. I need to get a multimeter to check some things to...I guess.
Any other helpful suggestions out there?
Thanks!
I guess I will now check the battery cables going to the starter and the ground. I need to get a multimeter to check some things to...I guess.
Any other helpful suggestions out there?
Thanks!
06-19-2009, 03:23 PM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: North East (scrtn/W-B), Pa
Posts: 87
Posted in the newbie thread
Hey guys. I posted in the Newbie thread, but it hasn't gotten much response.
I'll keep this post very short.
I also have a starting problem. Car:98 se auto. 168XXX
Problem: Inconsistant Crank. It'll crank for a split second and then it will only spin the flywheel/drive plate. I also hear a chattering noise, which I believe is coming from the starter and drive plate; it's like the starter has bad/inconsistant contact with driveplate. Also, I can see the tach rise to ~ 500 RPM. So,i assume this means the starter is making some sort of contact? *full story listed here. forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/389852-noobies-i-am-new-here-but-have-question-thread-read-first-post-before-posting-99.html *
I want know, what components are responsible for the "cranking" action. From the FSM. I gathered the: Starter circuit, alternator circuit, inhibitor relay, driveplate and battery. Is there anything else I should know?
Also, even when it cranks for a second or two. I still get no start. Codes and some fix attempts listed in linked thread. Thanks in advance.
I'll keep this post very short.
I also have a starting problem. Car:98 se auto. 168XXX
Problem: Inconsistant Crank. It'll crank for a split second and then it will only spin the flywheel/drive plate. I also hear a chattering noise, which I believe is coming from the starter and drive plate; it's like the starter has bad/inconsistant contact with driveplate. Also, I can see the tach rise to ~ 500 RPM. So,i assume this means the starter is making some sort of contact? *full story listed here. forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/389852-noobies-i-am-new-here-but-have-question-thread-read-first-post-before-posting-99.html *
I want know, what components are responsible for the "cranking" action. From the FSM. I gathered the: Starter circuit, alternator circuit, inhibitor relay, driveplate and battery. Is there anything else I should know?
Also, even when it cranks for a second or two. I still get no start. Codes and some fix attempts listed in linked thread. Thanks in advance.