Ready to call it quits.. Tried everything... Save my Max...
10-29-2013, 07:35 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
Ready to call it quits.. Tried everything... Save my Max...
This will be a lengthy post as I am going to explain everything in as much detail as possible. I'll start from the beginning:
I got my manual 1997 Nissan Maxima SE for Christmas of 2012. It had about 161,000 miles on it then and it has about 180,000 miles now. My dad bought it for me, and he lives in California, and I live in Georgia. So I drove across the country with only the speed sensor code (loose screws on back of gauge cluster) and a knock sensor code. Neither of which effected the performance of the car. In fact, the check engine light actually turned itself off after driving for about 1000 miles. I fell in love with the car. I have been using this forum since about January of this year, but I have not spoken a single word. The first thing I did to the car was clean the throttle body. (still no issue) I fixed the gauge cluster numerous times. Next I replaced the knock sensor with one I purchased on eBay for about $30. That code hasn't came back since. It seemed all was well. Until I got the jackpot code... 0705 and 0903. Since these codes didn't appear to be detrimental and I didn't have an air compressor to service the evap system I simply drove with the code for a while. Before finding the Nissan instructions on how to service the evap system, I decided to clean the IACV, EGR tube, and MAF in attempt to solve the problem. I had cleaned the throttle body recently and it was still sparkling clean so I left it alone. I reset the ECU, but the codes eventually came back. So I just ignored the issue. I modded the intake by simply putting a cone filter in the place of the air box. (Just for the noise, not the "horsepower") At this time I still didn't have any performance issues and it stayed like that for a good minute. Eventually I started noticing horrible gas mileage as well as an unstable idle, and while accelerating I would notice the engine getting bogged down, then springing to life, then bogging down again. Like the engine was misfiring. I saw on the org where someone described a similar problem like a vtec engaging then unengaging. All these symptoms where somewhat irregular and minor at this time. So I replaced all six spark plugs, we can debate brand but I'm sure that isn't the problem. The problem persisted. I continued to drive the car in hopes that the problem would get bad enough to throw a CEL code. Eventually the, what I will call a misfire though I don't believe it to be that, got so bad the car would stall unless I gave it some gas. (All the while tearing my clutch up trying to keep the car running in traffic) Around this time the CEL started blinking, which in a weird way made my day. I got it to advanced auto and found out I had a misfire in cylinder 6. I replaced the coil pack and it seemed to fix the problem for about 1-2 days before it came back, though not as bad. But the CEL did not return even though the car clearly felt like it was misfiring. I knew the fuel injectors where next on the list, but I didn't have the time or money to fix them so I simply bought some fuel injector cleaner and ran it through. The problem was still there, but not horrible. Eventually I replaced my fuel filter, which helped a little but did not solve the problem. Then came the Oxygen sensor code. I replaced one of the front ones. (If knowing the exact one will help I can find out which one it was) It fixed the CEL, but not my problem. The 0903 and 0705 codes just kinda disappeared in the mist of me resetting the codes so often replacing other parts. Around this time my clutch decided it had enough and it completely gave way on the interstate on my way to fix it. I had to tow it back to my house where I replaced it myself. After this the problem seemed to be either really minor, or gone entirely. Then I noticed my MPG drop again. Then I noticed the car hesitate when accelerating. Now I am noticing the engine bogging down, coming back, and bogging down again. Now I have a CEL for the rear oxygen sensor... I know that isn't the problem however because it simply monitors the catalytic converter. It's probably unrelated to my problem, just an old sensor. I have done so much to this car, and I am by no means illiterate about cars, but I can not solve this problem. I have searched over and over and over. Maybe I'm just not using the right keywords, but I have been at this search for probably 4-5 months now. I feel I have earned the right to use the "new thread" button.
I have a friend who has a 2006 Subaru WRX which has been experiencing what seems to be the same exact problem. He has done everything I have, plus much more such as replacing the MAF, ECU, catalytic converter, fuel injectors, etc.. Talking to him is also part of the reason I never checked out the fuel injectors. His mechanic told him just the other day that he fixed a car with the same exact symptoms by replacing the entire wiring harness and offered to do his for $1600 parts and labor.
Food for thought: I have considered the fuel pump regulator, but have not checked it out yet. It feels like something is playing with the amount of fuel getting to the engine. Be it too much or too little, I don't know. I have not checked the pressure because I don't have the tools or money. I have also not checked "ghost codes" because I could not find a single page detailing how to do this. The car has had regular oil changes with synthetic oil since it's birth in 1997. (I knew the previous owner) Everything I have done has seemed to fix it a little bit, but not solve it.
I'm at a loss. I need some direction. I plan on following this through until I see a resolution or I simply can't put anymore money into it. I hate finding a post of someone who has a very similar problem only to see that the post just ends with no resolution or word from the OP. I don't plan to be that guy.
EDIT: I took the Hybrid intake off and put the old airbox back on after the first oxygen sensor fried. And also the guy that owned it previously had a new muffler put on. I'm pretty sure he did not replace the y-pipe.
I got my manual 1997 Nissan Maxima SE for Christmas of 2012. It had about 161,000 miles on it then and it has about 180,000 miles now. My dad bought it for me, and he lives in California, and I live in Georgia. So I drove across the country with only the speed sensor code (loose screws on back of gauge cluster) and a knock sensor code. Neither of which effected the performance of the car. In fact, the check engine light actually turned itself off after driving for about 1000 miles. I fell in love with the car. I have been using this forum since about January of this year, but I have not spoken a single word. The first thing I did to the car was clean the throttle body. (still no issue) I fixed the gauge cluster numerous times. Next I replaced the knock sensor with one I purchased on eBay for about $30. That code hasn't came back since. It seemed all was well. Until I got the jackpot code... 0705 and 0903. Since these codes didn't appear to be detrimental and I didn't have an air compressor to service the evap system I simply drove with the code for a while. Before finding the Nissan instructions on how to service the evap system, I decided to clean the IACV, EGR tube, and MAF in attempt to solve the problem. I had cleaned the throttle body recently and it was still sparkling clean so I left it alone. I reset the ECU, but the codes eventually came back. So I just ignored the issue. I modded the intake by simply putting a cone filter in the place of the air box. (Just for the noise, not the "horsepower") At this time I still didn't have any performance issues and it stayed like that for a good minute. Eventually I started noticing horrible gas mileage as well as an unstable idle, and while accelerating I would notice the engine getting bogged down, then springing to life, then bogging down again. Like the engine was misfiring. I saw on the org where someone described a similar problem like a vtec engaging then unengaging. All these symptoms where somewhat irregular and minor at this time. So I replaced all six spark plugs, we can debate brand but I'm sure that isn't the problem. The problem persisted. I continued to drive the car in hopes that the problem would get bad enough to throw a CEL code. Eventually the, what I will call a misfire though I don't believe it to be that, got so bad the car would stall unless I gave it some gas. (All the while tearing my clutch up trying to keep the car running in traffic) Around this time the CEL started blinking, which in a weird way made my day. I got it to advanced auto and found out I had a misfire in cylinder 6. I replaced the coil pack and it seemed to fix the problem for about 1-2 days before it came back, though not as bad. But the CEL did not return even though the car clearly felt like it was misfiring. I knew the fuel injectors where next on the list, but I didn't have the time or money to fix them so I simply bought some fuel injector cleaner and ran it through. The problem was still there, but not horrible. Eventually I replaced my fuel filter, which helped a little but did not solve the problem. Then came the Oxygen sensor code. I replaced one of the front ones. (If knowing the exact one will help I can find out which one it was) It fixed the CEL, but not my problem. The 0903 and 0705 codes just kinda disappeared in the mist of me resetting the codes so often replacing other parts. Around this time my clutch decided it had enough and it completely gave way on the interstate on my way to fix it. I had to tow it back to my house where I replaced it myself. After this the problem seemed to be either really minor, or gone entirely. Then I noticed my MPG drop again. Then I noticed the car hesitate when accelerating. Now I am noticing the engine bogging down, coming back, and bogging down again. Now I have a CEL for the rear oxygen sensor... I know that isn't the problem however because it simply monitors the catalytic converter. It's probably unrelated to my problem, just an old sensor. I have done so much to this car, and I am by no means illiterate about cars, but I can not solve this problem. I have searched over and over and over. Maybe I'm just not using the right keywords, but I have been at this search for probably 4-5 months now. I feel I have earned the right to use the "new thread" button.
I have a friend who has a 2006 Subaru WRX which has been experiencing what seems to be the same exact problem. He has done everything I have, plus much more such as replacing the MAF, ECU, catalytic converter, fuel injectors, etc.. Talking to him is also part of the reason I never checked out the fuel injectors. His mechanic told him just the other day that he fixed a car with the same exact symptoms by replacing the entire wiring harness and offered to do his for $1600 parts and labor.
Food for thought: I have considered the fuel pump regulator, but have not checked it out yet. It feels like something is playing with the amount of fuel getting to the engine. Be it too much or too little, I don't know. I have not checked the pressure because I don't have the tools or money. I have also not checked "ghost codes" because I could not find a single page detailing how to do this. The car has had regular oil changes with synthetic oil since it's birth in 1997. (I knew the previous owner) Everything I have done has seemed to fix it a little bit, but not solve it.
I'm at a loss. I need some direction. I plan on following this through until I see a resolution or I simply can't put anymore money into it. I hate finding a post of someone who has a very similar problem only to see that the post just ends with no resolution or word from the OP. I don't plan to be that guy.
EDIT: I took the Hybrid intake off and put the old airbox back on after the first oxygen sensor fried. And also the guy that owned it previously had a new muffler put on. I'm pretty sure he did not replace the y-pipe.
Last edited by Chad_m; 10-29-2013 at 08:00 PM.
10-29-2013, 08:46 PM
#2
When you say fuel pump regulator, do you mean fuel pressure regulator (FPR)?
First, I'd make sure you have OEM NGK spark plugs in your Max. Brand does seem to matter with these cars.
Second, test the coilpacks. A failing coilpack doesn't always trigger a CEL, it's only when it's really bad does it seem to trigger the CEL. Maybe even swap coilpacks with a buddy if you can and see if your problem goes away.
Third. Check for a vacuum leak. Have a mechanic do a thorough smoke/vacuum leak test.
Fourth, Check/clean the fuel injectors.
Fifth, check FPR
Other ideas.... Bad fuel pump, bad MAF...I really, really doubt it's the wiring harness; very unlikely culprit.
BTW, when you cleaned the MAF, did you use a cleaner specific for cleaning MAF's?
Keep us posted as you troubleshoot this, and please do ultimately do tell us what fixes it.
First, I'd make sure you have OEM NGK spark plugs in your Max. Brand does seem to matter with these cars.
Second, test the coilpacks. A failing coilpack doesn't always trigger a CEL, it's only when it's really bad does it seem to trigger the CEL. Maybe even swap coilpacks with a buddy if you can and see if your problem goes away.
Third. Check for a vacuum leak. Have a mechanic do a thorough smoke/vacuum leak test.
Fourth, Check/clean the fuel injectors.
Fifth, check FPR
Other ideas.... Bad fuel pump, bad MAF...I really, really doubt it's the wiring harness; very unlikely culprit.
BTW, when you cleaned the MAF, did you use a cleaner specific for cleaning MAF's?
Keep us posted as you troubleshoot this, and please do ultimately do tell us what fixes it.
10-29-2013, 09:06 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
When you say fuel pump regulator, do you mean fuel pressure regulator (FPR)?
First, I'd make sure you have OEM NGK spark plugs in your Max. Brand does seem to matter with these cars.
Second, test the coilpacks. A failing coilpack doesn't always trigger a CEL, it's only when it's really bad does it seem to trigger the CEL. Maybe even swap coilpacks with a buddy if you can and see if your problem goes away.
Third. Check for a vacuum leak. Have a mechanic do a thorough smoke/vacuum leak test.
Fourth, Check/clean the fuel injectors.
Fifth, check FPR
Other ideas.... Bad fuel pump, bad MAF...I really, really doubt it's the wiring harness; very unlikely culprit.
BTW, when you cleaned the MAF, did you use a cleaner specific for cleaning MAF's?
Keep us posted as you troubleshoot this, and please do ultimately do tell us what fixes it.
First, I'd make sure you have OEM NGK spark plugs in your Max. Brand does seem to matter with these cars.
Second, test the coilpacks. A failing coilpack doesn't always trigger a CEL, it's only when it's really bad does it seem to trigger the CEL. Maybe even swap coilpacks with a buddy if you can and see if your problem goes away.
Third. Check for a vacuum leak. Have a mechanic do a thorough smoke/vacuum leak test.
Fourth, Check/clean the fuel injectors.
Fifth, check FPR
Other ideas.... Bad fuel pump, bad MAF...I really, really doubt it's the wiring harness; very unlikely culprit.
BTW, when you cleaned the MAF, did you use a cleaner specific for cleaning MAF's?
Keep us posted as you troubleshoot this, and please do ultimately do tell us what fixes it.
It does not have NGKs in it now, but it did when the problem first started.
What's the best way to test the coil packs? I did replace one of them, but I guess it is possible that the others are wearing down.
Can I simply remove the fuel injectors and clean them manually? Is that easily done?
I did use MAF specific cleaner. And if the MAF was bad the car would have a 2500 RPM limit. I know because I forgot to plug it in after cleaning it Lol
I don't think it's the fuel pump itself because of how irregular it is.
Here's my order of operation so far:
Test coil packs
Check out the FPR (can you visually see if this needs replacing?)
Find some cheap NGKs
10-29-2013, 09:10 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
By the way, today I ran an entire bottle of seafoam through the brake booster, and it didn't help the issue at all. I'm surprised it didn't stall the car, but it didn't. The other students at my college had to think something was on fire Lmao
10-30-2013, 04:19 AM
#6
It sounds like you know what you're doing so far. I'm also skeptical that its the plugs, especially being so intermittent. Harbor Freight has some cheap fuel pressure testers. I haven't had to do that, so I can't tell you how, but it sounds like you are mechanically inclined and could probably figure it out. If you're really cheap, then you could return it after you used it (I always feel bad doing this, but did it with the front wheel bearing kit $100). As far as checking injectors I had a bad one a while back. My mpg dropped from 22-23 in town to around 14. It was consistently bad until I replaced it though. With the engine idling, unplug individual injectors and see if there is a change. Thankfully mine was the front right, so it was easy to replace. Not so much fun if its the rear b/c I believe you have to take off the intake manifold. I'll try to think of anything else and get back to you. Good luck! Frustrating when these normally super reliable cars give us problems. The forum has been my best friend several times with problems in the past.
If it does turn out to be an injector send me a PM. I bought 5 on here a while back and only needed one. I'll send you 2 for $5 or something.
If it does turn out to be an injector send me a PM. I bought 5 on here a while back and only needed one. I'll send you 2 for $5 or something.
Last edited by Decimus Meridias; 10-30-2013 at 04:24 AM.
10-30-2013, 07:58 AM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
It sounds like you know what you're doing so far. I'm also skeptical that its the plugs, especially being so intermittent. Harbor Freight has some cheap fuel pressure testers. I haven't had to do that, so I can't tell you how, but it sounds like you are mechanically inclined and could probably figure it out. If you're really cheap, then you could return it after you used it (I always feel bad doing this, but did it with the front wheel bearing kit $100). As far as checking injectors I had a bad one a while back. My mpg dropped from 22-23 in town to around 14. It was consistently bad until I replaced it though. With the engine idling, unplug individual injectors and see if there is a change. Thankfully mine was the front right, so it was easy to replace. Not so much fun if its the rear b/c I believe you have to take off the intake manifold. I'll try to think of anything else and get back to you. Good luck! Frustrating when these normally super reliable cars give us problems. The forum has been my best friend several times with problems in the past.
If it does turn out to be an injector send me a PM. I bought 5 on here a while back and only needed one. I'll send you 2 for $5 or something.
If it does turn out to be an injector send me a PM. I bought 5 on here a while back and only needed one. I'll send you 2 for $5 or something.
EDIT: When I was about to unplug the back left injector, I noticed the idle become unstable before I unplugged it. (It does that a lot) Then when I unplugged it it still seemed to effect the idle, but very minimal. I unplugged it and plugged it back in several times, and it seemed like once the idle stabilized itself, unplugging this injector had the same effect as the others.
Last edited by Chad_m; 10-30-2013 at 08:15 AM.
10-30-2013, 08:18 AM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
Also, here's as new development: when I put my ear on top of the IACV while the car is running I can hear a ticking sound. Exactly like a clock. Tick, tick, tick, tick. Very rhythmic. Is it supposed to do that?
EDIT: After a quick search I realized that's because I had the car in diagnostic mode. Damnit... I was hoping I had found the problem.
EDIT: After a quick search I realized that's because I had the car in diagnostic mode. Damnit... I was hoping I had found the problem.
Last edited by Chad_m; 10-30-2013 at 08:26 AM.
10-30-2013, 08:25 AM
#9
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
I think the O2 codes were key here. Wish you knew the exact code. Most times the code means the O2 is reading a value that's outside of the normal range. Hance, the engine isn't running right and the ECU cannot adjust A/F to get the O2 reading back in range. In that case, the O2 isn't bad.
The bogging, hesitating, lack of response, poor MPG, unstable idle and O2 codes makes me point to a failing MAF sensor. It's signal is key to getting the A/F ratios correct and also for performance. A good scanner will show you in real time what it's signal looks like. I think the misfire may have been the coil, but that's fixed. Try swapping the MAF with a known good unit and see how the car runs.
The EVAP is usually the valve on the canister behind the left rear wheel.
Good luck!
The bogging, hesitating, lack of response, poor MPG, unstable idle and O2 codes makes me point to a failing MAF sensor. It's signal is key to getting the A/F ratios correct and also for performance. A good scanner will show you in real time what it's signal looks like. I think the misfire may have been the coil, but that's fixed. Try swapping the MAF with a known good unit and see how the car runs.
The EVAP is usually the valve on the canister behind the left rear wheel.
Good luck!
10-30-2013, 08:35 AM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
I think the O2 codes were key here. Wish you knew the exact code. Most times the code means the O2 is reading a value that's outside of the normal range. Hance, the engine isn't running right and the ECU cannot adjust A/F to get the O2 reading back in range. In that case, the O2 isn't bad.
The bogging, hesitating, lack of response, poor MPG, unstable idle and O2 codes makes me point to a failing MAF sensor. It's signal is key to getting the A/F ratios correct and also for performance. A good scanner will show you in real time what it's signal looks like. I think the misfire may have been the coil, but that's fixed. Try swapping the MAF with a known good unit and see how the car runs.
The EVAP is usually the valve on the canister behind the left rear wheel.
Good luck!
The bogging, hesitating, lack of response, poor MPG, unstable idle and O2 codes makes me point to a failing MAF sensor. It's signal is key to getting the A/F ratios correct and also for performance. A good scanner will show you in real time what it's signal looks like. I think the misfire may have been the coil, but that's fixed. Try swapping the MAF with a known good unit and see how the car runs.
The EVAP is usually the valve on the canister behind the left rear wheel.
Good luck!
EDIT: Also, I don't know if I would consider the "misfire" fixed.
Last edited by Chad_m; 10-30-2013 at 09:04 AM.
10-30-2013, 08:46 AM
#11
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
I'm going with coil packs.
I recently went through three autozone coil packs and could not get a good one. The first lasted a few months. The other two had the wrong resistance out of the box.
So... I went to the local upull it and grabbed some used coilpacks. I think I paid 7 bucks a piece. Since my 96 has almost 300k, the used ones I got seemed like new. Immediately solved the problem.
Search around on testing the coil packs. It's on the forum. You can test at the jy to see if they have proper resistance. Stay away from 1999 and up.
The problem I had was not exactly as you described yours, so it is possible it is not coil packs. But when you said advanced auto coil pack that set off an alarm.
I recently went through three autozone coil packs and could not get a good one. The first lasted a few months. The other two had the wrong resistance out of the box.
So... I went to the local upull it and grabbed some used coilpacks. I think I paid 7 bucks a piece. Since my 96 has almost 300k, the used ones I got seemed like new. Immediately solved the problem.
Search around on testing the coil packs. It's on the forum. You can test at the jy to see if they have proper resistance. Stay away from 1999 and up.
The problem I had was not exactly as you described yours, so it is possible it is not coil packs. But when you said advanced auto coil pack that set off an alarm.
Last edited by Max_Gator; 10-30-2013 at 08:49 AM.
10-30-2013, 09:02 AM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
I'm going with coil packs.
I recently went through three autozone coil packs and could not get a good one. The first lasted a few months. The other two had the wrong resistance out of the box.
So... I went to the local upull it and grabbed some used coilpacks. I think I paid 7 bucks a piece. Since my 96 has almost 300k, the used ones I got seemed like new. Immediately solved the problem.
Search around on testing the coil packs. It's on the forum. You can test at the jy to see if they have proper resistance. Stay away from 1999 and up.
The problem I had was not exactly as you described yours, so it is possible it is not coil packs. But when you said advanced auto coil pack that set off an alarm.
I recently went through three autozone coil packs and could not get a good one. The first lasted a few months. The other two had the wrong resistance out of the box.
So... I went to the local upull it and grabbed some used coilpacks. I think I paid 7 bucks a piece. Since my 96 has almost 300k, the used ones I got seemed like new. Immediately solved the problem.
Search around on testing the coil packs. It's on the forum. You can test at the jy to see if they have proper resistance. Stay away from 1999 and up.
The problem I had was not exactly as you described yours, so it is possible it is not coil packs. But when you said advanced auto coil pack that set off an alarm.
10-30-2013, 12:26 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
10-30-2013, 04:19 PM
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
Ok, so I tested the coils according to the instructions here:
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
Last edited by Chad_m; 10-30-2013 at 05:28 PM.
10-30-2013, 10:21 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 22
The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
). I had a stuck coil that broke when I removed it and it still read within specs.
10-31-2013, 03:27 AM
#18
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 253
Probably not oxy sensors. I have two bad ones in front and no cats, car ran fine except for misfire in #4 until some idiot dropped part of the timing chain tensioner into the timing cover. An alleged mechanic did that. The timing cover is a nightmare to get off
10-31-2013, 08:16 AM
#19
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Ok, so I tested the coils according to the instructions here:
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
However, I think stopping at 1450 might be a problem. The packs I got from autozone read in the 17s (obviously I was using a different setting on the meter) instead of the 14s.
Also, my original bad coil pack appeared to test ok. I've had this happen to me several times. Plus, you don't always get a cylinder misfire code. I got lucky ONCE and got one. The rest of the time I never did.
I would seriously try sourcing some inexpensive ones from a jy or another max owner. Then I would start with replacing the advance auto coil.
These damn coils can be gremlins.
11-03-2013, 04:44 AM
#20
Seems like you did everything right in the troubleshooting, however don't rule out a poorly spraying injector or the fuel pump going bad. The car throws codes for electrical things that it can monitor, but things like spark plugs, coilpacks, bad fpr, or fuel pump it won't throw a code. The codes it seemed to throw were the ones after the fact.
11-06-2013, 07:21 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Ok, so I tested the coils according to the instructions here:
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
https://maxima.org/showthread.php?t=555725
The multimeter I was using would only pick up anything at all on the + and G terminals when it was set to the 2000K setting. It gave me numbers in the thousands but I assumed this was just decimal thing so I continued the test. I am questioning whether the instructions were flawed. The first number is the reading immediately after removing the coil and as the coil cooled the resistance rose. If the coil's resistance made it to 1450 I stopped the test.
Back left
1250-1450
Back middle
1050-1450
Back right
950-1450
Front left
1050-1450
Front middle
1150-1450
Front right (Cylinder 6)
Nothing...
BUT, when trying to get this out, it would not come out so I continued to pull until it came apart. It appeared that it was meant to do that though. So I'm not sure if I broke it or if it was already broken... I put it back in and the car does not run any differently. I wouldn't even say it's running extremely poor right now. Definitely not a misfiring cylinder poor. With the car running I unplugged and plugged them in one by one and they all seemed to have a small effect on the idle, including cylinder 6. I'm at a loss here. I feel like that test was flawed. I do not have much confidence in it at all, but even if I had the multimeter set incorrectly or something it is odd that cylinder 6 read "1" which was the same thing the meter read in open air.
Ok man,
First things first...use NGK plugs. It does really matter. get the $3 single plats if u on a budget.
Second, head to the junk yard and replace the #6 coil. Test to make sure its getting power (which i am sure it is since u are getting a CODE for it).
The car idle IS being affected u just cant feel it since its a v6. I had the same thing happen to me, turned out to be a bad plug and coil.
If that doesnt cause the car to stop stuttering, then check the injector. Simple resistance test. If u need an injector check here for one. Or pull one from the junkyard. Do a SEARCH for injectors. There is a much simpler method for removing them.
11-06-2013, 10:45 PM
#23
I would replace your MAF with a used junkyard OEM one as well. 4th gen MAFs are actually better qualitywise than 5th gen MAFs. The only drawback to 4th gen MAFs is that they are old.
Your testing procedures and the fact that you changed your clutch yourself
shows that you're technically very able, to say the least.The thing with electronic testing is that test procedures give you tests for components that are 100% failing. Coils and MAFs, as with many other electrical components on cars can fail partially, and the tests won't bear that out.
I would also look into adding a ground kit, or maybe just cleaning all the ground points on your car. Any wire that attaches itself to the body or motor is a ground connection. The simple act of unscrewing and screwing a ground connection back in has a cleaning effect. Of course make sure the battery negative cable is unplugged first. I actually blew the bose audio fuse on my car because I left the negative connected while adding a ground kit. No biggie, but still, I had to search and find it, and that took a while.
Good luck.
11-07-2013, 02:29 AM
#24
Sounds like a MAF issue to me. When my MAF started to die, I would have the exact same problems. I would notice a sudden loss of power while accelerating, like as if I took my foot off the gas and then suddenly the power returns. Then I would get O2 sensor codes, like lean in bank 1 or 2 but not both at the same time, which was strange.
My idle was also very erratic, it would not stablilize and kept going up and down. By the time I figured out it was the MAF my idle was so bad that my car could not stay running for more than 10 seconds, it would dip really low start to stall then raise back up then dip really low and die. Then I tried a test I read somewhere on here and unplugged my MAF and started the car; it idled just like normal, plug it back in and my car would stall. And that was that!
My idle was also very erratic, it would not stablilize and kept going up and down. By the time I figured out it was the MAF my idle was so bad that my car could not stay running for more than 10 seconds, it would dip really low start to stall then raise back up then dip really low and die. Then I tried a test I read somewhere on here and unplugged my MAF and started the car; it idled just like normal, plug it back in and my car would stall. And that was that!
11-07-2013, 03:38 AM
#25
96 infiniti i30
I just want to encourage you to please stay with this topic until resolved. My son's car is doing the same thing. We have replaced several 02 sensors, knock sensor, fuel filter, egr temp sensor, cleaned tb and clean maf (w/MAF cleaner. We've been dealing with this for almost 5 months, while he's driving my car. There is a post on the wiring/connector to the MAF which involves soldering, I would like to try this once I find someone who can solder.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lem-fixed.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lem-fixed.html
11-07-2013, 05:46 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
Ok man,
First things first...use NGK plugs. It does really matter. get the $3 single plats if u on a budget.
Second, head to the junk yard and replace the #6 coil. Test to make sure its getting power (which i am sure it is since u are getting a CODE for it).
The car idle IS being affected u just cant feel it since its a v6. I had the same thing happen to me, turned out to be a bad plug and coil.
If that doesnt cause the car to stop stuttering, then check the injector. Simple resistance test. If u need an injector check here for one. Or pull one from the junkyard. Do a SEARCH for injectors. There is a much simpler method for removing them.
First things first...use NGK plugs. It does really matter. get the $3 single plats if u on a budget.
Second, head to the junk yard and replace the #6 coil. Test to make sure its getting power (which i am sure it is since u are getting a CODE for it).
The car idle IS being affected u just cant feel it since its a v6. I had the same thing happen to me, turned out to be a bad plug and coil.
If that doesnt cause the car to stop stuttering, then check the injector. Simple resistance test. If u need an injector check here for one. Or pull one from the junkyard. Do a SEARCH for injectors. There is a much simpler method for removing them.
#2 Where did you read that I am getting a code for the misfire at? After replacing the coil the first time the code went away. Did you miss the part where I wrote that? I do not have any misfire codes.
#3 I said I could feel the idle change... What are you getting at..?
#4 My order of operation at this point is this:
Change all 6 coils, and if that doesn't work I'll change the change MAF. And if neither of those things fix the problem, I will check the injectors. It will take me some time to do these things because I am also a full time architecture student. I will follow through with this, but if none of those things fix my issue, I will not hesitate to sell this car.
Last edited by Chad_m; 11-07-2013 at 05:48 PM.
11-07-2013, 10:22 PM
#27
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
I would also check the catalytic converter. A partially clogged cat would cause simular problems. I wouldn't assume the code you got was just a bad sensor. Some muffler shops can do a back pressure test to check it while it is still on the car or you can take it off and look through it yourself.
11-08-2013, 12:22 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
#1 I am certain it is not the plugs. I had this problem when it had NGK triple plats in it.
#2 Where did you read that I am getting a code for the misfire at? After replacing the coil the first time the code went away. Did you miss the part where I wrote that? I do not have any misfire codes.
#3 I said I could feel the idle change... What are you getting at..?
#4 My order of operation at this point is this:
Change all 6 coils, and if that doesn't work I'll change the change MAF. And if neither of those things fix the problem, I will check the injectors. It will take me some time to do these things because I am also a full time architecture student. I will follow through with this, but if none of those things fix my issue, I will not hesitate to sell this car.
#2 Where did you read that I am getting a code for the misfire at? After replacing the coil the first time the code went away. Did you miss the part where I wrote that? I do not have any misfire codes.
#3 I said I could feel the idle change... What are you getting at..?
#4 My order of operation at this point is this:
Change all 6 coils, and if that doesn't work I'll change the change MAF. And if neither of those things fix the problem, I will check the injectors. It will take me some time to do these things because I am also a full time architecture student. I will follow through with this, but if none of those things fix my issue, I will not hesitate to sell this car.
You MAF is on its way out. Just grab one from the junkyard or from the .org classifieds.
Dont bother with the coils. You would get a misfire code for a faulty coil.
When my MAF went, the car would buckle and hesitate and would sometimes shutoff. Finally I got a code for the MAF.
I recommended NGK because there are ppl who have reported issues with using other brands. I hjave only ever used NGK on mine.
11-10-2013, 04:44 PM
#29
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
I would also check the catalytic converter. A partially clogged cat would cause simular problems. I wouldn't assume the code you got was just a bad sensor. Some muffler shops can do a back pressure test to check it while it is still on the car or you can take it off and look through it yourself.
Testing for a plugged, clogged, restricted exhaust, converter - YouTube
Testing for a plugged, clogged, restricted exhaust, converter - YouTube
Last edited by Chad_m; 11-10-2013 at 04:53 PM.
11-28-2013, 08:57 PM
#30
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Western, MA
Posts: 18
I'm having the same exact problem with my 97 SE auto. The car would be very moody. One day it'll run like nothing was wrong then the next day it'll run absolutely terrible. It would have no power and basically bog all the time. Gas mileage is also terrible.
I have changed the knock sensor because the old one was cracked. I didn't change the harness for it though. The wires looked good from a visual inspection.
I did a fuel pressure test and the test came out fine with 34-36 psi at idle. I don't remember exactly. A vacuum check came out fine at 18 psi.
Just changed the sparkplugs and fuel filter last year. Used NGK iridiums and a napa fuel filter. I did change coil pack number six with an OE one from the junkyard because I accidentally ripped it when changing the plugs lol.
I also did a vacuum leak test and it looked like it had smoke pouring out of the EGRC-BPT valve or the actual EGR valve according to the vacuum hose diagram sticker on the hood. I heard some vacuum leak out of the EGR is normal but i don't think it is.
I also changed the MAF with one from the junkyard but the results were the same so I ended up returning it. I cleaned the one from the junkyard with electrical cleaner and the one on the car now with electrical cleaner but the results were the same.
I also noticed that the car LOVES to hang out in overdrive all the time. Is it normal?
Sorry for the wall of text lol. Just wanted to offer my input into what seems to be a problem the OP has also like myself. Sorry if i'm threadjacking. I had no intention in doing that.
Any advice please?
I have changed the knock sensor because the old one was cracked. I didn't change the harness for it though. The wires looked good from a visual inspection.
I did a fuel pressure test and the test came out fine with 34-36 psi at idle. I don't remember exactly. A vacuum check came out fine at 18 psi.
Just changed the sparkplugs and fuel filter last year. Used NGK iridiums and a napa fuel filter. I did change coil pack number six with an OE one from the junkyard because I accidentally ripped it when changing the plugs lol.
I also did a vacuum leak test and it looked like it had smoke pouring out of the EGRC-BPT valve or the actual EGR valve according to the vacuum hose diagram sticker on the hood. I heard some vacuum leak out of the EGR is normal but i don't think it is.
I also changed the MAF with one from the junkyard but the results were the same so I ended up returning it. I cleaned the one from the junkyard with electrical cleaner and the one on the car now with electrical cleaner but the results were the same.
I also noticed that the car LOVES to hang out in overdrive all the time. Is it normal?
Sorry for the wall of text lol. Just wanted to offer my input into what seems to be a problem the OP has also like myself. Sorry if i'm threadjacking. I had no intention in doing that.
Any advice please?
12-02-2013, 03:03 PM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3
Same problem, went through same cleaning steps. Just changed Coil/Plugs
Just changed 3 of my back plugs during my lunch hour with Nissan coil/wires from the jy.
The ones that were on there were two original coil/wires with the mitsubishi log on it and one unmarked but newer coil/wire.
So far, the engine runs smoothly and quietly. But that's only 15 minutes of idling during my lunchhour. I'll report back later tonight after I drive it extensively.
Wish me luck. Hopefully changing your coil/wires will do it for you too.
The ones that were on there were two original coil/wires with the mitsubishi log on it and one unmarked but newer coil/wire.
So far, the engine runs smoothly and quietly. But that's only 15 minutes of idling during my lunchhour. I'll report back later tonight after I drive it extensively.
Wish me luck. Hopefully changing your coil/wires will do it for you too.
12-02-2013, 03:19 PM
#32
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
#1 I am certain it is not the plugs. I had this problem when it had NGK triple plats in it.
#2 Where did you read that I am getting a code for the misfire at? After replacing the coil the first time the code went away. Did you miss the part where I wrote that? I do not have any misfire codes.
#3 I said I could feel the idle change... What are you getting at..?
#4 My order of operation at this point is this:
Change all 6 coils, and if that doesn't work I'll change the change MAF. And if neither of those things fix the problem, I will check the injectors. It will take me some time to do these things because I am also a full time architecture student. I will follow through with this, but if none of those things fix my issue, I will not hesitate to sell this car.
#2 Where did you read that I am getting a code for the misfire at? After replacing the coil the first time the code went away. Did you miss the part where I wrote that? I do not have any misfire codes.
#3 I said I could feel the idle change... What are you getting at..?
#4 My order of operation at this point is this:
Change all 6 coils, and if that doesn't work I'll change the change MAF. And if neither of those things fix the problem, I will check the injectors. It will take me some time to do these things because I am also a full time architecture student. I will follow through with this, but if none of those things fix my issue, I will not hesitate to sell this car.
12-02-2013, 06:54 PM
#33
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 3
So after changing the 3 rear coil packs with used Nissan ones from the jy, the car ran great for 22.1 miles then it stalled/misfired for a quarter mile... I will change the front coil packs also since they're only $6 a piece at the upull yard. It is idling steadily the last five minutes without misfiring or stalling. We'll see.
12-03-2013, 12:41 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
So after changing the 3 rear coil packs with used Nissan ones from the jy, the car ran great for 22.1 miles then it stalled/misfired for a quarter mile... I will change the front coil packs also since they're only $6 a piece at the upull yard. It is idling steadily the last five minutes without misfiring or stalling. We'll see.
12-04-2013, 03:26 AM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Brooklyn, NY.
Posts: 87
my money's on that it's the MAF, had this issue too and you described the same symptoms. I was also able to rev past 2500 while driving with a bad MAF so... please check that out, cleaning might not help, replace it.
12-04-2013, 01:20 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Oakland, CA
Posts: 704
12-11-2013, 08:41 AM
#39
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
Actually, no. I haven't changed anything. It's finals week at my school, and I am broke as hell. The problem has not gone away, but it is so minimal that I can live with it... Which I know isn't the right thing to do, but the car runs fine. If I were to try to sell it, I could certainly pass it as being in excellent mechanical condition. It never really "misfires" anymore. The only symptom remaining is the "bog" during acceleration. It's like this: If I am at a stop sign and I press the gas down 50% the car will accelerate some what quickly, then suddenly start accelerating very quickly, then back to somewhat quick, then back to very quick.
So all in all it is not a bad problem at the moment.
So all in all it is not a bad problem at the moment.
01-23-2014, 07:03 PM
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 94
I haven't forgotten about yall! The problem kinda went away for a minute but has come back recently with some slightly different symptoms. The idle has been really high and I can tell by the burnt fuel smell and horrible gas mileage that I'm running pretty rich. So, today I bought a MAF from pull-a-part for $30 and put that on, but it's hard to tell if it did anything or not because the problem does not always happen and it was not happening on the drive to pull-a-part.
I went through the idle adjust procedure and got some weird results. When I start the car with the TPS unplugged the car idles at about 1800-2000 RPM. If I screw the black screw all the way in it only goes down to ~1500. Then when I cut the car off, plug the sensor back in and start the car it's idling around 600, but it's somewhat unstable. Sometimes it drops to ~450-500 and the car starts shaking. These odd symptoms lead me to believe that something is off with my IACV, or maybe just the black screw. And my symptoms are somewhat in line with a bad IACV, right? Stalling when or stopping, bogged acceleration (Possibly due to running lean on acceleration?), sporadic rpm movement.
Also I read that you if you turn the black screw without your TPS unplugged nothing happens, however mine does. I can pretty much adjust my idle without unplugging it.
What do you guys think? I cleaned this in attempt to fix my problem, so I doubt it's clogged, but it may have some other problem.
I went through the idle adjust procedure and got some weird results. When I start the car with the TPS unplugged the car idles at about 1800-2000 RPM. If I screw the black screw all the way in it only goes down to ~1500. Then when I cut the car off, plug the sensor back in and start the car it's idling around 600, but it's somewhat unstable. Sometimes it drops to ~450-500 and the car starts shaking. These odd symptoms lead me to believe that something is off with my IACV, or maybe just the black screw. And my symptoms are somewhat in line with a bad IACV, right? Stalling when or stopping, bogged acceleration (Possibly due to running lean on acceleration?), sporadic rpm movement.
Also I read that you if you turn the black screw without your TPS unplugged nothing happens, however mine does. I can pretty much adjust my idle without unplugging it.
What do you guys think? I cleaned this in attempt to fix my problem, so I doubt it's clogged, but it may have some other problem.
Last edited by Chad_m; 01-23-2014 at 07:06 PM.