DIY Front Valve Cover Gasket Installation Guide
11-26-2009, 11:45 AM
#1
DIY Front Valve Cover Gasket Installation Guide
I haven't seen very many detailed 4th generation Maxima valve cover gasket installation guides. I was having issues with oil damaging my spark plugs because the spark plug grommet seals were leaking oil. These are replaced as part of the valve cover gasket installation.
What you need:
Permatex Black/Ultrablack RTV Gasket Sealant
Felpro or other brand gasket with spark plug grommets
Brake and Parts Cleaner
Shop Rags
Total Time: ~3 hours
I also replaced the sparkplugs while I was at it, because two of mine were damaged from the oil.
First of all, remove the negative battery cable from the negative terminal.
Next, use a #4 allen wrench to remove the spark plug/coil pack cover. Remove the coil pack cover. Remove the coil packs using a screwdriver or a socket wrench. Be careful not to strip the heads on these screws. Remove the coil pack wiring harness (the black plastic harness will pull out of the holes it sticks in).
Remove the two breather hoses, there is one in the upper left and one on the right side. The right side one had some kind of clip. The easiest way to remove is to use a pliers to supress the clip, then use a screw driver to push from one side and your hand to pull from the other to get it off the barb.
Next, remove the ten bolts that hold the valve cover on. There is very little force needed on these bolts. These bolts are 10mm socket if I recall correctly.
I would recommend at this point removing and discarding the rubber grommets and metal washers that are on these bolts and replacing them with the ones from the Felpro kit.
Next, remove the valve cover. This should be fairly easy, just pry it off. Mine came off without any effort.
Using a screw driver, rags, a scrap piece of dowel, etc, remove the old gasket from the valve cover.
Clean the mating surfaces of the cover free of the old sealant. This takes awhile. This took about an hour for me. I used brake and parts cleaner and a lot of old rags.
Pry out the old spark plug grommets using a screw driver. This can be annoying at first. From the inside of the cover, take the screw driver's flat head and stick it inside the grommet, then rock it free.
Then, clean the mating surfaces of the upper engine. Use a rag and a tiny bit of cleaner to wipe the surface clean. Also, make sure to clean the raised area on the left.
Clean the spark plug area where the new grommets will go.
Next, insert the new spark plug grommets into the holes. Make sure you put them right side up so they resemble the way the old grommets went. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the grommets into the valve cover.
Test fit the new gasket to get an idea of how it will go and look for problem areas, such as the left side.
Then, insert smoothly a thin bead of RTV sealant into the gasket groove on the valve cover. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant across the left area of the engine where I mentioned above to wipe.
Insert the new valve cover gasket into the groove, pressing evenly to disperse the RTV.
Place the valve cover onto the upper engine. Put the 10 bolts on in the order of the Chilton guide:1 middle lower left, 2 middle upper left, 3 middle lower right, 4 middle upper right, 5 far left lower, 6 far left upper, 7 far right lower, 8 far right upper, 9 far left middle, 10 far right middle.
Do not over tighten.
There are two torque specs assigned. First, torque to 1-3 Nm or 9-26 inch/lbs in the above order. Next, torque to 5.4-7.4 Nm or 48-65 inch/lbs in the above order.
Replace the breather hoses. Now is a good time to put the new spark plugs in. Torque specs on the plugs are 20-29 Nm or 14-22 Ft/Lbs. The Gap is .043 inch or 1.1 mm.
Replace the coil pack wiring, then replace the coil packs, reconnect the wires to the coil packs. Place the coil pack cover on. Reattach the negative cable to the negative terminal on the battery.
Allow the sealant to cure for a full 24 hours.
Start the car and check for oil leaks.
Congratulations!
What you need:
Permatex Black/Ultrablack RTV Gasket Sealant
Felpro or other brand gasket with spark plug grommets
Brake and Parts Cleaner
Shop Rags
Total Time: ~3 hours
I also replaced the sparkplugs while I was at it, because two of mine were damaged from the oil.
First of all, remove the negative battery cable from the negative terminal.
Next, use a #4 allen wrench to remove the spark plug/coil pack cover. Remove the coil pack cover. Remove the coil packs using a screwdriver or a socket wrench. Be careful not to strip the heads on these screws. Remove the coil pack wiring harness (the black plastic harness will pull out of the holes it sticks in).
Remove the two breather hoses, there is one in the upper left and one on the right side. The right side one had some kind of clip. The easiest way to remove is to use a pliers to supress the clip, then use a screw driver to push from one side and your hand to pull from the other to get it off the barb.
Next, remove the ten bolts that hold the valve cover on. There is very little force needed on these bolts. These bolts are 10mm socket if I recall correctly.
I would recommend at this point removing and discarding the rubber grommets and metal washers that are on these bolts and replacing them with the ones from the Felpro kit.
Next, remove the valve cover. This should be fairly easy, just pry it off. Mine came off without any effort.
Using a screw driver, rags, a scrap piece of dowel, etc, remove the old gasket from the valve cover.
Clean the mating surfaces of the cover free of the old sealant. This takes awhile. This took about an hour for me. I used brake and parts cleaner and a lot of old rags.
Pry out the old spark plug grommets using a screw driver. This can be annoying at first. From the inside of the cover, take the screw driver's flat head and stick it inside the grommet, then rock it free.
Then, clean the mating surfaces of the upper engine. Use a rag and a tiny bit of cleaner to wipe the surface clean. Also, make sure to clean the raised area on the left.
Clean the spark plug area where the new grommets will go.
Next, insert the new spark plug grommets into the holes. Make sure you put them right side up so they resemble the way the old grommets went. I used a rubber mallet to gently tap the grommets into the valve cover.
Test fit the new gasket to get an idea of how it will go and look for problem areas, such as the left side.
Then, insert smoothly a thin bead of RTV sealant into the gasket groove on the valve cover. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant across the left area of the engine where I mentioned above to wipe.
Insert the new valve cover gasket into the groove, pressing evenly to disperse the RTV.
Place the valve cover onto the upper engine. Put the 10 bolts on in the order of the Chilton guide:1 middle lower left, 2 middle upper left, 3 middle lower right, 4 middle upper right, 5 far left lower, 6 far left upper, 7 far right lower, 8 far right upper, 9 far left middle, 10 far right middle.
Do not over tighten.
There are two torque specs assigned. First, torque to 1-3 Nm or 9-26 inch/lbs in the above order. Next, torque to 5.4-7.4 Nm or 48-65 inch/lbs in the above order.
Replace the breather hoses. Now is a good time to put the new spark plugs in. Torque specs on the plugs are 20-29 Nm or 14-22 Ft/Lbs. The Gap is .043 inch or 1.1 mm.
Replace the coil pack wiring, then replace the coil packs, reconnect the wires to the coil packs. Place the coil pack cover on. Reattach the negative cable to the negative terminal on the battery.
Allow the sealant to cure for a full 24 hours.
Start the car and check for oil leaks.
Congratulations!
Last edited by ampire; 11-26-2009 at 11:59 AM. Reason: more pictures
11-26-2009, 12:18 PM
#3
FWIW the torque specs and sequence on the valve cover bolts is largely irrelevant, just don't break them off.
Also, no RTV is needed between the valve cover and the gasket, just the gasket and the cam cover/head (although a few spots helps hold the gasket in place during assembly).
Also, no RTV is needed between the valve cover and the gasket, just the gasket and the cam cover/head (although a few spots helps hold the gasket in place during assembly).
11-26-2009, 12:55 PM
#7
May have taken around 2.5 hours. The big problem was getting the old gunk out. Scraping the old sealant off took at least 75% of the time, probably because I was paranoid about making it as clean as possible.
Last edited by ampire; 11-26-2009 at 12:58 PM.
11-26-2009, 01:48 PM
#9
11-26-2009, 03:08 PM
#10
How do you figure?
Also forgot to add that waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure is somewhat ridiculous, I've never had a problem giving it virtually no time at all. Slap on the oil pan, by the time you get all of the bolts tightened down, fill it up with oil and no leaks.
Also forgot to add that waiting 24 hours for the RTV to cure is somewhat ridiculous, I've never had a problem giving it virtually no time at all. Slap on the oil pan, by the time you get all of the bolts tightened down, fill it up with oil and no leaks.
11-26-2009, 04:21 PM
#11
It does say on the package to let it cure 24 hours.
11-26-2009, 05:46 PM
#13
nycmaximas member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 644
11-26-2009, 07:55 PM
#14
The job itself IS simple but its more of a "time consuming" simple.
11-27-2009, 08:51 AM
#20
I'm gonna disagree with that statement and I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Unless you half *** through everything... I've done valve cover gaskets on several Maximas/other cars and I believe I'm very efficient when working on cars except I'm very **** about everything being cleaned up and neat..
The job itself IS simple but its more of a "time consuming" simple.
The job itself IS simple but its more of a "time consuming" simple.
12-01-2009, 04:12 PM
#22
The only steps he 'forgot' are the ones that don't apply to this writeup.
12-01-2009, 08:14 PM
#23
+1 for a good write-up for early beginners, nothing wrong with taking your time. i just did both my covers in an hour 15 a week ago. 4 bolts holding on UIM FTW.
this would have been great for me a year ago when i had didnt even know if my maxima had a carb....
this would have been great for me a year ago when i had didnt even know if my maxima had a carb....
12-01-2009, 08:53 PM
#24
Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Alexandria, VA, & Central Jersey
Posts: 2,647
nice write up. I found that using the end of a hammer that takes the nails out to be the most efficient in taking those sparkplug groments off. I almost took off a good part of my hand trying to take it off using a screw driver and what not.
12-02-2009, 08:19 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
Good writeup. I figured it was pretty easy, but mechancics would charge 200+ bucks for something that takes a lil time and patience.
I jus wish i had a indoor garage. Would hate to get any leaves in my engine hehe
I jus wish i had a indoor garage. Would hate to get any leaves in my engine hehe
01-01-2010, 02:53 PM
#33
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 16
Any problem with applying a little Loctite to the valve cover fasteners, especially the rear lower ones?
And I noticed there was no RTV sealant applied at the factory in the valve cover channels -- are you sure that's really needed?
And I noticed there was no RTV sealant applied at the factory in the valve cover channels -- are you sure that's really needed?
Last edited by Gary Mastro; 01-01-2010 at 02:57 PM.
01-01-2010, 03:04 PM
#34
By the 'valve cover channels', do you mean where the gasket sits in the valve cover itself? No, it's not needed, but it helps hold the gasket in place during installation.
01-02-2010, 09:44 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 223
My Manual only recommends a 30 minute wait on the silicon gasket for the oil pans. It worked fine the several times I replaced it trying to find a higher leak. Funny since it takes me about 2.5 hours to get the pans back on.
01-02-2010, 09:48 PM
#37
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 223
Back is pretty much the same as the front. I thought I'd throw a link in to ATTappman's awesome how-to on removing the UIM to help out (below).
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...im-w-pics.html
01-02-2010, 09:51 PM
#38
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 223
.
01-03-2010, 12:44 PM
#40
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 16
Newb alert
Hi guys. Can somebody do me a favor and send or post a pic of the spark plug cable routing on the front valve cover?
I've taken pics up the kazoo of the rest of the parts but probably thought that area was too obvious to need any, but now with my CRS kicking in the correct routing/positioning escapes me.
Thanks for your help.
Gary
gdmastro @ roadrunner . com
I've taken pics up the kazoo of the rest of the parts but probably thought that area was too obvious to need any, but now with my CRS kicking in the correct routing/positioning escapes me.
Thanks for your help.
Gary
gdmastro @ roadrunner . com