wxm

iTrader: (2)

My 95 Maxima GLE (115K miles on the clock) starts showing hesitate from a cold start. The car runs very smooth, and it usually takes just one key turn and starts right up, which is still the case when I restart the car after driving. But after sitting for hours, I usually have to keep the key at start position for an extra 2-3 seconds. The battery is new, and starter has about 50K miles on it (it cranks just fine).

My search shows related posts about the MAF ground. I am going to check for that as I cleaned up the TB and IACV about 3 month ago (might very likely disturbed the ground wire then), but then I've never experienced any trouble for idling or running. It only shows problem when starting after the car sitting for a long period. Any suggestion of what to look for?

Thanks in advance.

[Edited] I forgot to mention that there was no code and the fuel filter is new too.

DJD

iTrader: (1)

I just fixed the exact same problem you are having. Hard starting when it was cold, but all was fine when the car was warm.

It turned out being my ECTS: Engine Coolant Temp Sensor.

It was one of the very first things I checked, and it checked out fine, but after exploring all other options and not finding anything wrong, I checked it again and it was telling the ECU it was below zero and flooding it out. If you have a multimeter, the resistance of it at around 80 F should be about 0.6 KOhms I believe. But it's a cheap part and easy to replace, I'd look into that.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about that too. However, I have a ScanGuageII plugged in and it reads the water temperature correctly - at least I think that's what ECTS feeds, no?

kapp241

???

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Just read your thread. It has typical ECTS symptoms - engine run too rich (flood of fuel) and black smoke at the exhaust (due to running rich). However, mine has neither of the symptoms... Thinking of the fuel line, but why does it have anything to do with the cold start?

DJD

iTrader: (1)

Well, I think my problem was a far worse version of yours, it would take me 8-10 seconds to get mine started after it had been stitting a while. If your ECTS looks good, then maybe the fuel pressure is bleeding off while the car sits from either a faulty pressure regulator or leaking injector(s). Try holding the key in the "on" position for a few seconds before you try and crank it over. If that helps, then you're most likely loosing your fuel pressure. But it good be any of a dozen things, so good luck to you.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

It looks like my difficulty of starting when the car sit for a while is related to the grounding problem. I know a lot of people here had reported good result after adding addition grounding wire to the transmission. In my case, I have just took out the ground cable and its bracket underneath the coolant bypass hose in front of the engine, and cleaned off the terminals and the contact area on the bracket, and put them back. The car fires right up now, even better the long lost radio light also comes back. (I probably should wait for a couple of days before declaring a victory). But hey, at least I can tell which radio station I am tuning to now...

ls1forlife

if it was the ECTS, was your guage reading hot too? I swapped to a 5spd and I am having trouble starting sometimes, but i believe its a charging issue. I know this doesnt help at all, just curious.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Crap! I spoke too soon. It seems to matter with the ambient temperature. While it was significant colder this morning, I had to crank twice to fire it up. Guess the Crank Position Sensors are the next on the list... (Does anyone know whether I can pull them out for cleaning or I should drain the oil first?)

The guage shows normal - I don't think it is the ECTS though.

ls1forlife

I believe you can pull it out with out draining the oil. its magnetic so itll have metal and grime on it. Are you sure its not the alt/bat? You could check the voltage coming out of the bat when its not running and after. that might tell you something. Maybe it just needs a tune up?

redteg94

I got the EXACT problem with my car.. how can I verify if the MAF ground is still good ???

wxm

iTrader: (2)

The battery is new (it was the first thing that I replaced). I also replaced the plugs, checked the Camshaft position sensor last weekend too. I got a new ECTS, will probably put it in the next, though I doubt it is the problem. I am trying to do one thing at a time. This way I will be able to tell what the problem is...

ls1forlife

well good luck, and let me know and keep us posted

lbrowne

WXM: I just had this exact problem, and it started getting worse as the temps got colder.

It was my FPR (fuel pressure regulator)

From what you described, it sounds exactly like what mine was doing. It was harder to start especially if it had been sitting for a while too. (like overnight)

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Ibrowne. Someone else was suggesting that too. Isn't the FPR responsible for releasing the pressure? If so, I can hardly imagine I am losing pressure when the engine is off as there is no power to the regulator. Anyway, since you had a success after replacing it. I might be looking into it. Does anyone know how to check the FPR? I hope to have some assurance before throwing money for a new one - it is not cheap.

lbrowne

After removing the unit, my theory is that part of the FPR's responsibility keeps the fuel from retreating back down the fuel line when the car is shut off.

Hence why after longer periods of time the car is harder to start. The car/fuel pump is basically priming the line and then eventually catching when it reaches the fuel rail.

Just my theory....

As for purchasing one, I found one online for 65 bucks CAN shipped to my door. Yes it was an actual Nissan unit. Dealer wanted 150+, parts store wanted 180!!!

wxm

iTrader: (2)

It has only been two days since I replaced the new FPR - it might still be too early to declare victory. Nevertheless, I got a strong feeling that the FPR leaking pressure was my problem.

Many thanks lbrowne for the instruction, I have ordered a new FPR (together with a new o-ring) and installed it over the weekend. The starting hesitation never happened, even at 40+F degree this morning... From the way that the car fires up, I have a feeling that the problem has been fixed. What I am not convinced however is whether the new FPR did the trick or just a new O-ring. I replaced both as I have them in hand. But if it came around again, I would probably try to replace the $2 O-ring first before commit to an expensive FPR...

wxm

iTrader: (2)

[Warning] The gasoline is extremely flammable and you can never be too careful while working on a fuel line. I actually waited for the engine to cool down completely before starting to replace the FPR.

Again, many thanks for lbrowne for the steps of replacing the FPR, I figure to put them down here with pictures so that others can share them too.

(1) First of to release the fuel pressure. I did this by starting the car, removed the fuel pump fuse and let the car die. You'd be happy you did this when it comes to remove the FPR later on.

(2) Remove the resonator, top of airbox. Be sure to mark the hoses and connectors that you disconnect so that you know how to put them back later on.

(3) Many have also removed the Throttle body to gain enough room to access the FPR. This is also a good time to clean up the back side of the TB. I did not remove the TB as I just did the TB and IAVC clean up months ago, and I also get a good screw driver and hose removal tool which allow me to access the screws (underneath the TB) and remove the fuel hose in tight space.




(4) Remove the top/bottom screws on the FPR. Be extremely careful with the two screws. The really wanted to strip easily. Many had this problem which turned a small job a cursing exercise. Be sure to get yourself a proper sized phillips. I also hit the screws with the PB a day earlier.

(5) Put down some paper towel or cloth underneath the FPR to catch the residual gas that may leak out once the FPR pulled out.

(6) Once the screws removed, you can then pull the FPR out. Depending on how much pressure left in the system, you may need to pry it out gently. Mine came out easily with one pry of the flat head screw driver.

(7) Pull off the air tube underneath, and lose the fuse hose clamp, and take out the fuel hose. This may take some patience. If you have a pair of hose removal pliers like I do, you'd be happy for the investment - it made the hose removal a snap. (You can get the tool from Harbor Freight for about $10).

(8) Install a new o-ring on FPR (I always put down some grease when I install an O-ring). Slide the FPR in, and reconnect air tube and fuel hose, tighten the fuel hose clamp.

(9) Remove towel and cloth that you put down in step (5)

(10) Tighten the screws on FPR and reinstall the air box and connectors that you removed from step 2.

(11) Reconnect the air hose, and tighten its clamp.

(12) Reinstall the fuel pump fuse.

Before you starting the car again, double check the fuel line to make sure there is no fuel leak and no spilled over gas in the surrounding area.

lbrowne

Glad I was able to provide some help!

With regards to those screws, even with the proper sized Phillips they can still strip - as they did in my case. Which then lead to cursing and then later a sigh of relief after using an air tool. (won't get into those details lol)

I think if the o-ring was faulty you would have had a smell of gas under the hood and/or could see gas leaking out around the FPR. I had neither, so I'm pretty sure in my case the FPR itself was just faulty.

But if you're changing, for sure spend the buck or two on a new o-ring!

Those stickers on the FPR box look familiar

When I did this fix, I also removed the intake resonator altogether. The hose fitting on the bottom that the resonator attaches to can be plugged/capped perfectly with the top of a K&N air filter charger cap. (off the top of the small aerosol can)

90blkteg

My boy has this same problem

lainy

my car has had this problem for a very long time. i would start it, but seconds later, it would die on me and id have such difficulty starting it up again. im going to the mechanics tomorrow, so i'll be sure to mention about the FPR to him.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Mine never died once started up, and it drove just fine. My only problem was that I had to turn twice when it had sit for a long period time. It sounds that you might have a different problem - any code? How old is your fuel filter? I would also check for air leak...Good luck.

lbrowne

Nope - mine had this symptom, if it sat long enough it would stall immediately after you started it. Hasn't happened since I replaced the FPR. But it would ONLY do this if it had sat overnight or all day while I was at work.

It would start the second time, sometimes with me having to give it a dart of gas when she caught. The car then idled and drove fine after, no issues.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Crap! After starting perfectly for two weeks, it showed the same symptom again - hesitate to start after it had sitting for a period of time. I was quite certain the FPR was the problem as the past two weeks it had been so good once I replaced it. Maybe I am facing different problem?

lbrowne

TOO F'N FUNNY! Me too!

I figured out it's my Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF). This is somewhat different than the FPR symptoms, although very similar. My car in the morning or after work fires up and dies right away. I start it again and give it a shot of gas and it will then stay running when I take my foot off.

It had triggered the 0407 code eventually, which has happened after the FPR replacement. I never got the code with the FPR, which you could tell the car seemed to not have fuel in the fuel rail.

Locally the CPS sensor is 60 bucks. I hope to get at it this weekend.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

That's really too funny Misery loves company.

I just went out and went over on everything that I have touched for the FPR project. I figured that it had too be something got lose as it was working perfectly for two weeks. As it turned out, I had forgotten to tighten the clamp of the intake hose to the TB. Now I have tighten it up, and keep my fingers crossed. Will report back.

lbrowne

I would think that because the intake hose is quite the snug fit over the TB flange that wouldn't solve it. Unless of course it was partly off...

I plan on trying to clean my sensor tomorrow night. Got hockey tonight.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I recently had a similar problem on my 4th gen with 98K miles. After thinking it was fuel and or spark related it ended up that the starter was getting weak so could not turn the engine quickly enough to start. It sounded like it cranked fine but it was not. Starter finally went dead a month later.

You can do regular maintence stuff like plugs anyway but the starter should be easy to remove and test. Try the obvious stuff like battery or starter before you worry about things like spark or fuel pressure/pump.

The problem may be easier to solve once it gets worse, my starts started getting worse as time went on until toward the end it really started to sound like a obvious starter issue. Of course you could end up getting stuck. I ended up replacing my starter at my work parking lot, fortunately I was able to get a starter and some tools. I'm not saying it is defintely your starter, just a good possiblity.


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ike-champ.html

lbrowne

I would think it may have to do with my starter as well save for the fact that my car catches but dies immediately once it starts. The starter is actually starting the car but then it dies. The archives I read indicated the CPS REF based on the code I pulled.

If the car had only been off for a short while, it fires up right away and stays running without any extra interaction from me.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I was reading the sticky for the code you had. It mentioned the bad starter or starter circuit could trigger the P0407. So the starter is a possibility.

BTW, my car fired up on the first turn this morning . Hopefully tighten the intake clamp down has fixed the problem.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I agree if it starts up and then dies than it's not the starter. My post was mostly for WXM's problem description.

♥cece*oaks♥

I have the same problem EVERYDAY! But one day the engine coolant temp sensor showed up as the problem (code) and then again today after I changed the KNOCK sensor, the cts was not the problem... Hummm.... so should i still change the coolant temp sensor? Hope I'm not being a bother! just need some help! ♥♥♥

wxm

iTrader: (2)

If it shows no problem, just drive on... That's said, I failed to see the connection of the knock sensor related to the starting problem. Either you unconsciously fixed the some grounding problem while replacing the KS or it is just temporarily masked. Anyway, it is not coming back - be happy!

lbrowne

So I cleaned the CPS (REF) sensor last night and let the car sit overnight outside. It's even snowing this morning! argh.

Anyways, start the car, dies, starts again, dies. It actually gets to the point of starting but stumbles to stalling out. Once I got it going and started driving, the CEL came on and I know that it'll be the 0407 code once again.

So I think I'll order the CPS (REF) sensor and just swap it today.

lbrowne

So it was code 0407 again.

Just installed a new CPS (REF) sensor from a parts store. Going to let her sit till tomorrow morning or at least till late tonight. See how it goes.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I think we are dealing with different problem. In my case, I tightened the clamp of the big intake hose, and it has been firing perfectly. It kind of makes sense as the FPR is operated by the air pressure.

Keep us posted about result from the new CPS (REF).

lbrowne

Same deal. *$&%^!!

Left it over night, hard starting this morning.

I'm wondering if maybe the starter is actually dragging a bit. That when I get it to start and then it dies, it isn't quite cranked over like I think it is.

Just did the starter on my bro's 97 yesterday so I know it would be a breeze top put in another.

I never got any codes this time.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

I would bet on the starter too, though, it still make no sense when died after had started. Could it be the starter circuit (grounding etc) than the starter itself ? Good luck with the starter...

lainy

the day i went to the mech, i had the coolant temp sensor changed. and since then, my car hasnt died on me at all after starting up. it still has a bit of trouble starting, but i just give it a little gas and its fine. its been a full week, so im hoping my problem has been solved

wxm

iTrader: (2)

That's a very good point. lbrowne, you might want to check the ECTS. (Or replace it if it is still the original - $20 part).