Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I purchased my 98SE new and the car has always started very easily. The only time I seemed to have any issues starting was sometimes in cool weather after I washed it, like moisture was affecting something.

Lately it has not started a briskly as it has in the past, It will start just fine one time but the next it does not start the first time and I have to turn the key again. It always starts on the second try but not as smoothly/briskly as in the past. The starting problem is similar to after the car wash as I mentioned. This starting problem does not seem to matter if the car has been sitting or if it is warm.

My starter cranks just fine and all regular maintenance, plugs, filters, PCV ect has been done on schedule. My CEL has not turned on so I have not checked for codes yet.

I believe it may be some kind of air/fuel problem because when it finally does start it seems to burn excess fuel and smokes a bit.

I have done a search of hard starts but could not really find good information. Any suggestions of things that I can change or clean to help improve the starts is appreciated.

edwardh1

HAd same, intermittant problem. mechanic said puter had no codes- he cleaned throttle body $85. Has not done it since - 2 weeks- we are keeping tank above 1/2 full for a month as when it did it, it had lo fuel- we will then test with the gas level near empty for crud in the tank.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If it is seeming to run excessively rich after it finally starts up, the first thing I'd check is the ECTS (think that's a good howto video I should do as well). Make sure the wiring for it is good, if you've got an OBD-II scantool you can view the temperature the ECU is reading, compare from a good start to a bad start.

If not the ECTS (and it's only ~$20), then it could be an injector o-ring or an injector partially failing.

This is all assuming that it is indeed fueling too much on these hard starts.

bassterdSD

similar issues with starting...it takes me about 3-4 times before the car will start...and the only way to get it started is to hold the gas down while cranking...could this be the ECTS

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, I'll check/replace the ECTS first, if that does not help I'll consider cleaning the throttle body. I think that cleaning the throttle body is something that I can do on my own, or is a professional cleaning recommended?

I don't have a scan tool but since the ECTS is inexpensive I may just try and change it.
I'll post my results.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I also feel compelled to press on the gas pedal when the problem occurs but am not sure if that is really necessary. I won't go so far to say that my car is hard to start but it is acting up at times.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Could very well be, yes.

edwardh1

ECTS is a what?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you search, or look through the acronyms in the stickies?

ECTS == Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

jkahng

mine would start but immediately shut off if i didn't put my foot on the gas.
i change the oil to synthetic(mobile 10w-40 high mileage) and this cured it.

you might want to change your fuel filter if you haven't done in a while. i did mine yesterday and it improved drivability a lot

dibquib

Had a very similar problem with my 97 max. After much searching around here, decided it could be the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) or Fuel pump going. Changed the FPR as it was the cheapest option and it once again starts like a champ.

dibquib

Sorry - did not intend to post.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! My buddy said to check the regulator also, his girlfriend had a similar problem with her Maxima. He said that if I pull the hose off the bottom of the regulator and there is fuel there that means the regulator is not working properly. It should be dry. I'm going to check that soon.

dibquib

THe bottom hose is a vacuum hose. I don't know how fuel would get in there but it is likely your buddy knows far more than me. The hose at the back is the fuel return line that is used to return gasoline to the tank. I would expect that it woud always have some fuel in it.

Nissan did a fuel pressure check for my symptoms and diagnosed the fuel pump because the pressure in the fuel system was dropping too quickly once the engine was shut off. The FPR is designed to maintain the pressure in the system so why they did not suggest it, I don't know. Even the parts dealers tell you that often fuel pump symproms are actually the FPR and to try that first. Much cheaper fix. I picked up a used one on E-bay for $25. and all is well.

If you do decide to replace the FPR, be careful in loosening the 2 screws attaching it. They are tight and can strip very easily and then you are in for significantly more work! Not that I learned that from experience

Good luck.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If the diaphragm inside the FPR fails, it can leak fuel into the vac line. Common quick check for a faulty FPR.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

His car is running pig rich... i saw it the other day.. hell start it up and its ok.. he shuts it off and it doesn't wanna start again and when it does black smoke pours out..

dibquib

Good to know!

I wish I had known that when I was doing mine instead of just taking a chance. Oh well...it worked out in the end.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

FWIW, there is no indication of fuel at the vacuum hose at the bottom of the FPR and my ECTS measures 1940 ohms at 80 degrees. Both of these items appear to be normal. My starting problem appears to be occuring more frequently. Oh well, I'll post again if/when I find the cause.

lsvtec789

iam having the same little problems also..Just got the car a week ago..I will have 2 give it gas after the 2/3 crank of the key...Idk.. the car could run for about 5min after being started and turn off and back on with one crank?? i hear it could be the ECTS == Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor????. i was told my battery..changed that it does it. it may be because the cars inside.. but stock alarm??

marco polo

I had a problem similar to this with my old 97 max, I replaced the starter relay and bam! problem solved.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks but the starter cranks just fine, it seems to be more of a fuel/air mixture issue.

mahmoudh

A knock sensor will retard timing and affect starting. It will also throw a code but will not light up the CEL. You should read code using ECU (See Sticky) or have Autozone pull the codes for free.

dibquib

There was no fuel in the vacuum hose on my FPR either but replacing it solved my problem which had the same symptoms as you. From what I have read, a leaking diaphragm in the FPR will likely cause fuel to leak into the Vacuum hose but a weak one may not. INstead, it simply allows fuel to return to the tank via the return hose and reduces the fuel pressure in the system, resulting in slow/difficult starts until the system has re-pressurized. A used FPR for $25 was well worth the risk. YMMV.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that information, I will seriously consider changing the FPR if I don't find any obvious causes. .

bettsgt

My 1999 Max SE is hard to start. I have change my plugs, pcv,coolant temp;cleaned the IACV and thottle body. I ran the test on the TPS and I didn't get the required 5 Volts. What is the next step? Is my ECU bad?

Gary

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You're not getting 5v on the harness? You are checking the red wire on pin 1, correct?

93SCMax

iTrader: (3)

I have a 98 SE and had a similar problem. She'd start and then immediately shut-off. Trying to give more throttle didn't help. Eventually she'd start and continue to run. But something wasn't right. I finally cleaned the dirt/oil off of the top of the crankshaft position sensor (under the crankshaft pulley). Dirt and oil build up on the sensor kept the it from accurately sensing the pulley rotating (thus turning on and off the fuel pump). Once the sensor was cleaned (I also double checked the resistance and made sure she was in spec) she starts up perfectly the 1st time every time. If you've got or have a bad CV boot, the grease can get thrown on the sensor, and dirt can accumulate. Hell, an 11 year old car can also have some dirt/oil build-up on this sensor and cause this problem. It's an easy check and fix. Check it out. Good luck.

edwardh1

Boy a picture of it would be nice, or say more about the exact location

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

A picture of...what? You neglected to quote a post, or mention what you're referring to; a dozen things have been posted since you were last here.

edwardh1

Calm down- the crank sensor, mentioned in the last post b4 mine

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Calm down?

And had you searched:


As he said, under the crank pulley. There's not much room for ambiguity there.

If you're going to refer to something specific, either actually take the time to type it, or at least quote the post; don't rely on people assuming what you meant.

Justock

Just to give all you hard starters another completely different goose to chase, I had difficult starts because the Start Signal from the keyswitch to the ECU was cutting out momentarily as I turned the key from ON to Start. This did not affect cranking but it must have glitched the ECU fuel control. A new ignition switch fixed it right up. I have a post with more detail. Search for my post, "95 Max: Failure to Launch (Hard Starts)...FIXED!"

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the crankshaft position sensor information I'm going to check that in the morning. This would make sense because the sensor signal appears to only be used during start-up and once my car has started it seems to run just fine. Although I'm confused how dirt/grease could effect the operation of a magnetic sensor I will give it a good inspection/cleaning.

My starting issue is getting worse, the car always starts the first or second time but it jut sounds bad, like the timing is off or something. If it does not start on the first try I usually give it gas and it fires up on the second try but this causes a puff of black smoke to shoot out the exhaust.

I also have a new fuel pressure regulator that I will install if the crankshaft position sensor does not fix the problem.

I will also consider the ignition switch as possible cause. I appreciate everyones input and hopefully I will have good results to report tomorrow.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I checked for CEL codes, got 0505, which is normal.
Checked and cleaned the crankshaft position sensor located by the oil filter, it was fine measured 560 Ohms, that is within specs.
Hoped to change the fuel pressure regulator but the screws holding the old one are just too tight. I can't get them loose even though I removed some parts so I can use a normal screwdriver. I even put penetrant on them a few days ago. Man that is a s*** design by Nissan. Does anyone have any suggestions for removing those screws?

dibquib

I feel your pain. Those can be tough. I ended up breaking one of mine whin I did it and it took me about an hour to get it out. I don't know if there is a secret. Maybe more and more penetrant and needle nose vice grips would work to get it started?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, I'm trying to check/change the easy stuff first. Figured the FPR has only two screws, should be easy to change. Guess I'll look elswhere and maybe come back to it later.

dibquib

I don't know why Nissan didn't use small hex heads for the FPR. It would be a snap. Phillips screws make no sense. Goog luck.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I just noticed that I have never changed the PCV valve, it's the original car has 98K miles. Would that cause a starting problem?

flyineagle96

answer 2 all your problems is SEAFOAM

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Good news to report. I managed to get the screws holding the FPR loose. Learned a neat trick to do it,. Place your screw driver in the screw and without damaging the screw head give it a good whack with a hammer or take a screw driver and place it on the screw head and give it a good shot with a hammer. This helps to break the screw loose, it worked like a charm for the FPR. Unfortunately replacing the FPR did not fix the starting problem.

Yesterday I went to start the car and it would not crank at all. The starter solenoid was clicking on but the starter was not cranking at all. Replaced the starter and my Maxima once again starts like a champ. It appears the reason for the hard starts was that the old starter was too weak to adequately crank the engine. The starter sounded like it was cranking fine but it was not. That would also explain some of the weird noises that were coming from my engine and starter over the past two weeks.

Lesson learned is, if your starter is more than ten years old and you have starting issues there is a good chance they are being caused by the starter. Had I know that the starter was so (relatively) easy to remove I would have gotten it tested.

Thanks for the help Sebastian.