phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am trying something new.

This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, we will delete it.

This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user.

This is for noobs only and will be open only as long as we feel like maintaining it. SPAM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

I tried this in the I30(35) section and had some success. The 5th Gen mods are trying it as well.

ALL MEMBER RESPONSES MUST BE A QUOTE OF THE ORIGINAL QUESTION! New questions, obviously, need not have any quotes.

Postwhoring will not be tolerated! If you get an answer to your question, please move along. If you have a followup, by all means, post it. We don't need 10,000 posts thanking someone for helping them out. These will be deleted.

Here are some links that will also be helpful:
4th gen FAQs (READ ME! PLEASE! READ ME!):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=72447

Modification and other HOW-Tos (tells you how to do common things done to 4th Gens):
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=254238
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=258184

ECU Fault codes or Check Engine light diagnostics:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931

THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCH!!!
How do I search? http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748

86maxima96

iTrader: (10)

There really isn't a better y-pipe. Some say the quality of the Cattman is worth the extra money, while others are more than happy with a Budget or Warpspeed. The only determining factor should really be whether stainless steel piping is necessary. Depending on your climate, it is typically a worthwhile investment to get an SS pipe.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Okay, no more of those type of posts. This is a post where noobies can ask questions. We already have the FAQs to answer most of the questions above, but I will leave them, just for fun.

Again, this is for n00bies to ASK questions. Thanks for helping, though!

No, market forces will keep it on the first page. If it falls off, it is unnecessary to have it around. We will see what demand justifies.

Kazoo

iTrader: (3)

I tried to post this a while back but never could. I think this tread is good for all the new people. So here is my question. The tach sweeps slowly until it is maxed out. Goes back to 0 when the car is turned off. Looking at the service manuel found out it gets a 7v signal that is pulsed. Verified the 7 volt signal but dont have a way to varify the pulse. But anyway took out the gauge and looked at it to see if I can see any burned components. Everyhting looked good so I would guess it was the chip that is on there. It probably converts the digital signal into an analog output so the gauge can display the RPMs. So does anyone out there fix these or is there a replacement chip we can put in? Does anyone know any more about these as in how they actually work? Maybe who the manufacterer is because I saw the price on a new one and it is a little on the high side. Any info on this thing would be great.

John

TJShag13

Hello all, my question is : Will the BCM of a '98 i30 work in a '97 i30? Also, will it make any difference if one or the other is an i30T? I thought i would ask in over here as well....any thoughts?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

The easiest thing might be to buy a cheap cluster from a junkyard(or ebay) and swap.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

It might, best way would be to try out and find. It would be better to find one from the same car so you don't have to worry about it.

axmax96

Hi, my question is where can i find a new e-brake boot that won't cost me alot of money... the cheapest i've seen is $65...are there any cheaper?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Redlinemax is the cheapest and best IIRC. Try to find one from a junkyard or ebay.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Did you mean redlinegoods??? If so i agree, they have the nicest boots around and they are sure to last for quite some time. Much better then the OEM pleather crap.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=368619

Bags

iTrader: (3)

good thread

Nismotic

iTrader: (25)

to add to this, it may be in your best interest to:

a.) look for a cluster with miles similar to your existing one
b.) take both clusters to nissan to have them re-calibrate it for you.

Kazoo

iTrader: (3)

Yes I did that. It should be arriving today. Hopefully it will work. I was just trying to find out more about the tach and seeing if anyone else knows anything about it.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

I have disassembled and re-assembled tons of 4th gen gauge clusters, and it is a pretty easy process. Post here and I will make a new thread to walk you through the process of making sure that your mileage stays correct on your cluster.

DPR250R

I am trying to help a friend with her car.... I registered but cannot use the search function... not sure why....

All I need to know is on a 1997 Maxima if Bank 1 is the one near the firewall and Bank 2 is the one near the radiator....


(Thank You Flava)

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

That is correct.

Kazoo

iTrader: (3)

I already took everything apart and it was not too bad. Actually all I am going to do is swap the tach. I will save all the other gages just in case another one goes bad. The mileage is another 100,000 over what the car has now so I don't want to use it. But what I will need help on is removal of the needle just in case it is not the same as my stock cluster. I have the white gages with black needles. But I thought I read somewhere that the white gages have red needles. So if they are not the same I will need to swap them. So if you can let me know how to removed them without killing them that would be great.

Thanks,

John

miserov

My tach will start bouncing all over the place every now and then when I'm driving. I have never noticed it do this while I am idling. A lot of times it will start doing it when I accelerate from a stop, but it will also when I am doing highway driving. I do have the P0500 code. I have replaced the VSS and my TPS is working correctly.

Not sure if it is related, but my cruise control will randomly stop working as well. Either it will not turn on for a period or it will suddenly stop working and the "cruise" light will start flashing at me, but then after a few minutes of it not working it will suddenly start to work again.

I have an automatic transmission.

Are there more sensors to check out or should I go straight to the cluster. The tach is the only needle that does this.

gb6305

I NEED to kno where can i find a cool billet grille for my car maybe trenz or another type, anyway can anyone post pics of their grilles and where i can get 1 from?

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

What faces do the gauges have on the cluster that you bought? If white, you COULD swap all of the white faces into your car- which looks good. I did that on my 96 GLE and on my 97 I30t.

Basics on needle removal:

You remove the needle rest with a pair of needlenose pliers and turn the needle- gently- ONLY in the counter-clockwise direction until it is resting in the natural resting position. (The natural resting position will most likely be below (past) the needle rest. It is on a 4th gen.) Then you even MORE gently bring the needle up past the rest in a clockwise direction and re-install the needle rest.

You will feel gentle resistance when turning it counter-clockwise. This is the needle actually turning while the center post remains stationary. You should NOT feel and pressure (other than the spring slightly uncoiling) when moving it in the clockwise direction, because the center post will be turning with the needle.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

as long as all the options match up it should be no problem.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

check in readers rides sect. you may get better ideas.

86maxima96

iTrader: (10)

like phenryiv1 said, if the demand is there, it will stay on the first page, if not at the very top. i think it is fine to let it float a bit.

QuiksilverMusic

Ok, so i have a question. I bought these Mille Miglia EV-S 19's that have a different bolt setting than what my maxima has. So im going to buy a hub kit for all of it and what not. Do you think it would be worth it to keep my stock rims even though with the new hub kit they will not fit? Or should i just sell them?

redwagon29

iTrader: (2)

So hopefully this isn't too noob of a question... I've searched around thru most of the clutch threads but haven't quite found an answer. If I could, I'd find someone with a 4th gen max similar to mine to compare clutches but I don't know anyone that has one so that's not so easy.

I bought a 97 Max 5spd SE back in May with 114k, I'm up to almost 120 now. I love the car, its my first 5spd althou a lot of my friends have 5spds and they had taught me how to drive on theirs. I don't drive it hard, very rarely will I floor it or try to race someone, I just love the feeling of cruisin around town in it with the windows and moonroof down on a nice summer evenin. Anyways to the question..

The previous owner wasn't sure if the clutch had ever been changed in its life, and my dad seems to think it catches fairly high for a clutch, but he hasn't driven a stick in many years and the systems are different than when he used to drive em. When shifting, I only have to push the clutch down maybe 1/2 way until it is fully disengaged to shift and it doesn't fully grab until its nearly all the way up but not quite (maybe 3/4 way?). It definetly doesn't slip, that I can definetly determine, but I was wondering how far down a normal clutch should engage and if theres anyway to determine how much life its got left. I'm aware that if its the original clutch 120k seems to be exceptional for the life of one. Thanks guys.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

The way I see it, if it isn't slipping, don't worry about it

nick_auto96

Another TACHOMETER question.
Hi I've been having problems with my tachometer. At idle, it shows like 300 rpms and even when I floor the gas pedal it never shows more than 1500 rpm( its like tach showing 4 times less than actual rpm). However, sometimes when I start the engine in the morning it works fine but after a few minutes it acts strange. You can also see it in my 0-60 video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmgNYrPIgls
Any help will be appriciated.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

Sounds like someong had your gauges apart at some point and the needle might be rubbing. Does it move smoothly?

Chefasaurus

iTrader: (4)

I've got a 99 SE 5spd... I have located 2 different trannys, a Spec-V 6spd, and a 2k2 Max 6spd. I realize that there may be some differences between the 5spd tranny and the 6spd... but other than the obvious answer of "it has an extra gear," what else is different? Is this a bolt-up deal? I'm fairly competent with cars, and have no problem undertaking and executing a large task... I just don't have a welder anymore.... so hopefully that's not needed.


If there's a thread that already has a write-up, please let me know. I'd like to have the LSD, 6spd, and better gearing for autoX and street.


--Evan

siballiance

iTrader: (3)

i have a question, is it hard to install underglows. cause i want it sooooooooooo bad.

Caracicatriz

iTrader: (3)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=6-speed
here's a link that should help. You could also check the all motor forum. I'm sure those guys could help you out.

dralucard

iTrader: (6)

Has anybody heard of this exhaust before?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYO-T...14481945QQrdZ1

Looks kind of s@@@@y, but not a bad price.

Also, does anybody have any feedback on the Pacesetter/Monza exhaust? Is it any good as far as fitment and sound?

Thanks.

phenryiv1

iTrader: (19)

No, not hard at all. Just be sure to mount it inside the sight lines of the frame rails.

nick_auto96

Yes ,it moves smoothly and I had checked the connections when I changed the gauge bulbs. Tach was like that when I bought the car last year.
Is there any vaccum lines that I need to check?
:

nutty dredd

Hey ya'll, i'm tryna put a 98 gauge cluster in a 96 and i'm tryna find out if anyone makes a wiring harness so i can just plug it right up.thanx.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Nope, you gotta wire it in.

MaximaMarine

I just purchased an AVN5435 (pretty good deal from Circuit City) and am having it installed next week. I have searched far and wide on the web and have been unable to see any pics of Maximas with this system. Does anyone around have any, or is this a hint that they aren't installed in Maximas and if so why. I just got the green light to do some long awaited mods to my car, any other suggestions?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Plenty of maximas have it. Search in the Audio forums. It fits fine and has a small gap at the top. Fill it in with foam.

rzua5

Nice meeting all maxima owners here, I am a new user on this site and the impression this site gave me is great. I am a proud owner of a 96 4th gen maxima in Toronto, everything in the car still runs strong but recently I see smoke (smells like something is burning) coming out from the steering wheel when I Drive on freeway for more than 30min. Its fine if I ease up the car or park it on the shoulder. I did a search on the sites and I have no definite answers is it possible it might cause by EGI Wire Harness Breakage?? Hope someone can give me a hand here. Really appreciate it and thanks in advance

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

So you see smoke in the interior?