98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Last night had an idea to get rid of my 0302 EGR code without having to take apart the manifold or anything else. For under 10 dollars and about 1 hour of work I’ve gotten rid of the code while still keeping the functionality of the EGR system.

The EGR reads from its temp sensor and from the solenoid itself. Whenever the ECU calls for EGR it energizes that solenoid and thru the EGR system allows a small amount of exhaust to be fed back into the engine. This helps reduce emissions by cooling combustion temperatures and reducing NOx emissions. From my experiences without EGR the engine tends to run hot and hesitate, especially on hot days.

On Krismax's car he ditched the EGR system to save on weight but kept getting 0302 codes. He had the EGRC solenoid plugged into the socket with the solenoid just hanging there attached to nothing. This still threw codes, so we tried a mock vacuum system with some hoses to simulate an EGR system and that still threw codes. Finally I just cut the socket and attached two 100 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel and this stopped the EGR code from returning. However with no codes the car hesitates at certain times with the EGR missing.

For me any kind of hesitation is unexceptable, the solution I came up with for my car is this. From Radio Shack I purchased 2 100 ohm 10 watt resistors and a SPST normally open automotive relay. I cut the EGR harness and wired the two resistors to make the ECU think the EGR solenoid is still there. But I attached the coil of the relay across the resistors, so this will activate the relay whenever the ECU calls for EGR. I then wired in 12V to the relay and then onto the EGR harness. So this supplies power to the EGR solenoid thru the relay, allowing the EGR to function normally.

While this may seem redundant this setup fools the ECU into thinking the EGR is still functional and allows the EGR to still operate. However this is only a temporary fix to pass emissions testing. I’m looking into swapping a VQ35 in the near future and I will permanently address the EGR issue when the time comes. For now I am ok with not getting anymore codes. Last night I drove around for a while and everything seemed normal. I will check back in a week or so to see if any codes resurface from this ghetto fix.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Nice fix bud, funny how so many people have EGR probs and no one has chimed in.

7jackmack

I had code 302 for several months until I came across this site http://autoclinic.net/article/imports/nissan_p0400.htm
.Familiarize yourself with the egr valve diaphram operation with
a cold engine. Then instead of messing with the vacuum lines
I carefully reached in and operated the diaphram with the car running
And engine warmed up. This had no effect. After I cleaned the port
As per links procedure, I again operated the valve (engine running ,
Warmed up) . This time it immediately stalled . I reset codes and all is
Well for over a year. Cost – 1 coat hanger & rag. Dealer wanted $300.00
And was going to replace EGR valve.

Travibe

7jackmack, my love, where have you been all my life. I need you to live in my house, becuase if this f*cking egr code comes up one more f*cking time im going to seriously demolish the max and start walking to work. Im fed up wit hthis crap and so many people have looked at it and they all try different things, and this is the first that i have seen of this suggestion. Jimminy christmas. You have any pics as to this process? Any advice?

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Do you think you could make a diagram with colors and such for us not so bright electricions? I have a VQ35 swap and would love to be able to "hide" my egr problem. Awsome work!

7jackmack

The link has a few pics. The "plate" he removes is the IAC/aac valve.
There is a small trough inside the intake plenum ( right next to where the
egr pipe connects at back of plenum). I used a piece of coathanger to scratch
at and break up the carbon blob-o-goo , then stuck a finger in and had the goo
cling to my finger, pulled it out & wiped it on a rag. Took a tedious hour & I filled
both sides of two rags with this gunk. Reassembled , reset cel and it's been fine
last 40 thousand miles.

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

maybe I am not following you, but basically you are making it so the ECU thinks the EGR is working, and at the same time you are using the relay to make the EGR work. So if you EGR valve worked to begin with, what is the point of this? Is the EGR valve only opening partway or something?

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

My EGR is partially clogged and I dont feel like fixing it, thats my point. Hence the term "ghetto fix". When I swapped the VI I had to replace most of those EGR tubes, so I know they are clean. I left the EGR valve in place and I believe its clogged with carbon. When I swap motors Im gonna keep EGR and clean out every EGR component so the codes wont come back, in the meantime I can pass emissons and still have my EGR somewhat functioning.

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

My EGR pipes and intake manifold are clean as a whistle. I believe my EGR valve is caked with carbon cause its the only part I didnt clean when the manifold was off. Chalk it up to laziness...

Oh and its been 3 days now with no EGR codes... I used to get the code every day.

maximaking

iTrader: (1)

Could someone please post more detailed pics of how to clean the EGR valve? The pictures on AUtoclinic don't tell a novice much.

Thnaks
Todd

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Ahh the 2k2 VQ35 swap presents a different problem, You have no location to attach EGR plumbing to.

And you dynoed with an EGR code?? That may explain your low dyno #s along with an untuned VQ35. If I had known we could of ghetto rigged something to fix that code when I was down in Dallas.

However if you attach the resistors that will clear the EGR code, but you will get hesitation and such. Im thinking we can use a relay to power an injector to spritz a little bit of fuel or water/alcohol mix into the manifold to simulate EGR. Or go the other route and build a system so the 2k2 swaps can use a 4th gen EGR system.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

hmm finally some steps i can take that will work. cant i just use a 200 ohm resistor or no?

98SEBlackMax

iTrader: (9)

Try it, Ive been using what has worked in the past. A 50 ohm resistance and the ECU is happy. The solenoid measured 35 ohms so I tried to stay near its value. It would be interesting to see how high up we can get because the two resistors get pretty warm @ 50 ohms.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

oh whoops i missed the parallel part. heh my b. I Have a bunch of 22 ohm 1/2 watt resistors. Ill probably try them 1st. Just so i dont mess with the wrong stuff, its the green egr solenoid valve? I have re routed everything vacuum related so im familiar with all of it. But i really need to do this on my friends turbo charged G20... same 0302 code and its blocked compleatly since the DET doner car had no EGR. I on the other hand just left the EGR backpressure transducer vacuum line disconnected to test some stuff. Im just going to connect it back up.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

I wasnt throwing an EGR code until after Dallas. I was throwing some EVAP Codes that Stephen is trying to figure out.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

The problem with just cleaning out the port in the plenum (which is all you can really do by pulling the IACV) is that the EGR guide tube is still left in a fairly clogged state. That tube needs to be pulled off the car to clean it properly. I just did mine a few weeks ago and both the port on the plenum (as shown in the above writeup) and the EGR guide tube were severely clogged. I had the 0302 code as well - hasn't come back since that cleaning.

DragonMaxima

iTrader: (7)

Anybody have some better pictures and instructions on how to clean the EGR.

I've been getting the 0302 CEL for the past couple of weeks. It seems to come back after I reset the ECU.

Thanks.

bendy

I have a similar problem. At first the car shakes at stops and was worse with the ac on. the code eas cylinder 1 misfire so i took it to the dealers to find the cause. they said it was the #1 fuel injector. since the injectors were hard to reach i replaced all the rear injectors, but not the front. the car ran like a brand new car for about20 minutes and then the same shake returned. the next morning the car was hard to start and seemed to be flooding. when i got it started there was grey smoke that smelled like fuel from exust, put put put sound was coming from the mufler, and this has been the problem since. it has those conditions and the shake worsens when the ac is on. when driving you can smell lots of gas smell coming from the exaust. performance seems to worsen after the car reaches normal temp. the code from the ecm says multiple misfire. when it was only cylinder 1 misfire i drove the car but the shake was annoying, now i can't drive the car and it even misfires when the rpm's are low and i'm driving it. does anyone have a clue what's going on, i will appreciate any response, before i take it back to the stealers

knight71

Before you start cleaning the EGR system, try replacing EGR solenoid valve, that did the trick for me..check out these threads:


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=393527
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=350528

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

Would a clog like this cause the car's idle to be faulty? Like when cruising, putting it in nuetral, and having the idle go down to about 300 rpms, and have to fight it's way back up to normal?