BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I like krispy kreme. mmm.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...ld-thread.html

this guy makes 400whp. you're gonna have to outdo THAT to get 500whp.

3g94MaxGXE

not exactly....he does alot of stuff like the custom headers that don't have to be done to make 500hp. All it really would take would be some ecu work and routing some intake and possibly exhaust piping. Remote mount turbos FTW

http://www.ststurbo.com/the_technology

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

dude i never said 500hp for 7k thats was one of them ive already spent 7000 and i doubt im over stock

my goal is 290/290 n/a

3g94MaxGXE

I'd be surprised if you could possibly make 290/290 unless you are using some uber high compression ratio that requires the use of 150 octane fuel or something ridiculous like that. NA is VERY limiting.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

well ive already taken care of the suspensions sytem restored it anyway and i have to do this transmission before it fails and my exhaust before september the after market clutch is good for 292 tq the stock cv shafts are good for 300hp

i mentioned this in the VG30e head mods thread
"so youve got 30-40hp coming from the rebuild kit
you got another 30hp for head porting
if you factor in the engine bore you should hit 250hp no problem maybe even pass it throw in about $1000 in intake and exhaust mods and youll be nearing 300hp on N/A for about $4500"

sry i was lazy didnt feel like rewriting

3g94MaxGXE

Your numbers all sound optimistic to me. 50hp from intake and exhaust mods? Last I checked we could expect like half of that from them though with modified heads the extra flow on both ends of the engine might be better spent. Either way I'm skeptical that people can be putting huge turbos on these things and only make a Honda Civic more horsepower than you think you can NA.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

do it. dyno it. done. </thread>

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

lol

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

dude **** off you already proven that you either have no clue what im tryin to do in this project or that you dont even believe i own a car

im also tryin to keep this thread open till i finish the entire thing that way i dont have to start a new thread so the engine rebuild the tranny and ecu swap as well as the intake and exhaust mods i will post heere if i have a question about my window regulators ill make a new thread

burhan92SE

DUDE u neeed to WATCH how u talk......u aint gettin s*** like that trust me....and plus CAP is here since u probably even know wat 3RD GEN IS...so respect the dude...

i understand wat u r trying to say but this is not the way u say...

edit: we will help u out but jus be nice....i had to read the whole thread to find out wats going on here....

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

you people crack me up.


best of luck op! out of curiosity why do you want to stay NA? it would be much easier to hit 300/300 with FI. and most likely cheaper too. and as far as reliability goes it would probably be higher only because you are going to have to rev so damn high to hit your NA goals...

speaking of NA i honestly doubt you can hit 290/290 on pump gas. but best of luck. i mean maybe if you rebuild the head and bottom end so you can rev to 9-10k...anywho best of luck and keep us updated!!!

again if this is your DD i wouldn't do it. and before i did a engine build on a car i'd decide what i want to use it for. autoX, drag, street, etc. as each type has a better setup.

g'luck

--jon


edit: it's MUCH cheaper to keep swapping in new trannies then to pay to have one beefed up. trust me. i got mine for 300 shipped. speaking of which i have an extra tranny that just needs a new input shaft bearing. sell it to ya cheap

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

I understand what you're talking about doing. I believe that you own a car. You also seem to own a hot head, loose lips, and a thick skull.

you're going to spend $7000 to try and double the n/a power output of a VG, which is either going to be really peaky and powerless through the rest of the RPM band.... you didn't know (or listen to crap we said the first 4 times around) about ECU upgrades, and for $3000 you could have a VGT-VLSD5 with a sexy BOV sounding off when you shift gears. Without tearing the engine apart and screwing with higher compression pistons and whatever-else. If you want to do N/A then look into things that will turn it from the 9:1 3.0L into a higher-comp 3.3L... that way you've got more bang and more boom at the same time.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

If you continue to talk **** to other members, with no provocation, then this thread will be locked and you will be on nice long vacation from the org. So keep it civil, and we will not have any problems.

Torgus

iTrader: (10)

fwiw http://hekimianracing.com/nissan3lna.html that engine is probably rated at the flywheel infact i'd bet money on it.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

no doubt, they probably wouldn't even bother putting it in a car to get #'s from...

3g94MaxGXE

Yeah thats probably at the flywheel so you can expect less than that to the wheels. and thats probably not a cheap engine by any standards. Probably idles like s***.

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

Well, I guess they are calling you out.
If you're willing to put 3x$$ to your car. then go for it. But I think these guys are warning you that it isn't an easy or possible task.

Heck, you may have to do some engineering (pun intended) on your own.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

heck... the stock 7th gen max *only* makes 290 at the crank.... maybe a set of cams and ported this-and-that will get it to 300-310 or so... cams may or may not help as much as they do on a VG b/c the 7g has vvt on intake AND exhaust iirc

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

just so everybody knows im not tryin to get some random peak hp or tq because i think it sounds cool. thats why i mentioned the limitations of the aftermarket clutch and stock cv shafts because i cant go past those numbers. im planning to do this specific work on the car and i dont want it going over those numbers. i know when u real engnine builders set a goal you do whatever you need to reach that goal sometimes going back in forth to the dyno. i doubt i will be going more than once. whatever the numbers are thats what they'll be but the highest theyll possibly get is 290/290

also i just got a message from IPP i thought anyone considering the same thing might find interesting:

At this time we are not doing any head porting.Our guy is in the hospital and we dont know when he will be returning to work.

Sincerely,
Phil
Tech & Sales Dept.
IPP/Flatlander Racing

also the heikmann racing engine thats listed is a 3.0l mine will be a 3.4 so it will be easier to build but that engine is still really impressive

i also found a lifetime warranty on tires parts&labor it cost 750 plus the cost of the first tires do you guys think this would be a wise investment

is there any cheap mods to adjust this i know i can shred the whole suspension and weld in coilovers if i want but right now i would love some kinda cheap fix ive gone through countless axles even though they got a pretty good warranty on them so parts and labor have been free i still im sick of pokin holes in them

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

free fix

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

pretty much...

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

this "x/y" talk, is that hp/torque?
Even so is 180 is the max usable hp an NA VG can get?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

in stock form a VG30E w/just bolt ons, yes.
VG33E came with 180hp depending on what it was installed in. (Quest got 170hp)

Darkwing48

iTrader: (1)

Ohhhh, ok where/what are these "bolt ons" and where can I find it? This is my last question so I don't get a a blame for threadjacking or Off Topic.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

here is a complete list of engine mods that i plan on the list isn't final i dont have my intake mods planned out in any way. also how far can i bore the engine and port the heads im considering 10:1 compression so what would be the best way to acheive that?

I would be very interested in hearing how much power all of you think i can acheive with these mods

VG30E Complete Gasket Set
Copper Performance Head Gasket
ROSS/Wiseco Performance Pistons
Performance Rings
Performance Wrist Pins
TOGA HP Main Bearings
TOGA HP Rod Bearings
TOGA HV Oil Pump
----------------------
Bore Block
Blue Print and Square
Main Lines Checked
Pressure Test
Cleaning
Deck
Freeze Plugs Installed
Crank checked
----------------------
Head Porting
Blending of Intake and Exhaust Runners
3 angle Oversized Valve job
Power Clean Head
Disassemble Head
Check Heads for Cracks
Machine for perfectly flat surface
Check all valve guides
Cut valve seats for new oversize valves
----------------------
Warpspeed exhaust kit

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

punctuation would be helpful:wink:
compression discussion:
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...head-mods.html

as for the size bore, there are at least a few threads on this.

edit: btw, looks like a good list. dont know what it is all worth, combined. just remember, hp mods dont add up like arithmetic. 30hp here + 15 hp there does not equal +45hp overall.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Y-pipe, CAI , UDP, lighter wheels, fresh tune-up, etc...

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

You won't put over 180hp to the ground with that setup.
I'm running something very similar in a VE with even more compression, and I'm still only getting ~200 to the ground.

10:1 compression is only starting too.


If you want to put down 300hp, you're going to have to forego out-of-the-box pistons and custom make some in the 13:1 range and you'll be running 100+ octane race gas all the time. not to mention you'll have to rev the bejeezus out of it and you'll wear it out in no time.

go find you some performance engine builders and call them. stop posting here until you've talked to REAL professionals that will tell you what they can and can't do. They'll give you real numbers and real prices.
engine builders like Paeco, Saenz, Heikeiman, Maggio, Quicksilver, Rebello, etc.


FYI, you're looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $10,000 JUST for the engine build. to put together a tranny to hold that kind of beef, you're going to spend another $5000 on a full level 10 rebuild.. Throw in custom axles for another $1000.

now you're going to need a suspension to keep it on the ground. Eibachs and Konis are $1000. include chassis bracing to help for another $750. Go ahead and custom build you some coilovers instead of the eibachs and konis because at this point you just put $20k into a 15 year old car that's worth $1500.

been there, done that. I now have a $50,000 3rd gen that's still slow compared to newer FWDs and can't handle even as well as a stock BMW 3 series... and it rides like **** and it's a temperamental ***** on the roads because the suspension is so stiff and the engine is so touchy...

3g94MaxGXE

$50,000 3rd gen? Geez dude....I don't even think I can imagine spending a fifth of that on modifying my car, granted I just want it to be a rice killing DD but still you spent alot to call it a *****.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

That is the single most depressing post ever in the 3rd gen forum.

3g94MaxGXE

Keep in mind this is the guy we buy alot of our suspension mods from complaining about stiff suspension...quite ironic.

I just tallied the costs of getting my Maxima the way I want it and I'm looking at $2750+ worth of mods and around 200hp....throw in some of my possible mods (N20 or turbo) and you've got not just a 3 series beat but an M3 beat as far as horsepower goes.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

It rides stiff because of the springs I put on it, not because of the mods I sell...
eibach springs are in the neighborhood of 220lb/in. I'm running springs more than twice that stiff, and my Koni shocks can't handle them.

My car can lay down some pretty impressive lap times at the track, but that makes it much less fun to drive on the road because it's extremely stiff. those that have ridden in my car will say the same thing. yeah, it's fast for a Maxima- in a straight line and around the corners... BUT.. I can run faster lap times at the track with a BMW 3 series.. maybe not an older E36, but an E46 sure.
1/4 mile times? most bolt-on 4th gens have me beat and the great majority of 5th gens... but get me on an open road where the VE can breathe or on a road course and I'll eat them for lunch.


And yes.. I've got about $50k in the car over the years.. I'm on my 2nd engine and 3rd tranny, which is on rebuild #3 itself.
The stereo is about $10k of it, and I've got about $3k in cosmetic/interior mods.. the rest has gone into mechanical work.

I've gone through 4 sets of shocks, several designs of camber plates, 6 different front brake setups, 3 rear versions. three or four sets of wheel bearings up front, 2 in the back.
I won't even begin to think about how many sets of brake pads, rotors, and tires I've gone through...

For that same money, I coulda bought a used Vette and an IS300 and had better track times with the vette and better street ride in the IS for the same money. Sometimes reality just bites... Which is why I'm telling you that if you want to build a badass car, a Maxima is not the place to start. put your money in something else and keep the Maxima what it is- a decently fun, comfy DD.

Do your basic bolt ons- springs, shocks, sway bars, Y pipe, exhaust, intake, maybe some JWT stage I cams, and an ECU. stop there and drive it. You'll thank me later.

this car with over 200hp will kill front tires and brakes and you'll go through transmissions every couple years. they're simply not made for that kind of performance.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

damn you, matt, and you common sense. sure, you may know more about third gens, and their quirks than all of the noobs combined. who cares? who are you to tell us what our cars are capable of? bash our hopes of a 10 sec. 1/4. toss away our dreams of 500 hp, while maintaining daily-driver status.
so maybe you have had the luxury of spending $50k on your car. The noobs can do better with half the money you have put into your car. someday soon, the noobs will have proven that you are full of ****, and are better than you, regardless of your fabrication skills and engineering prowess.

so what if your third gen is unable to keep up with a bmw? and less fun to drive daily? who cares?
so what if we could get an s13 or s14 or even an mx-5 and totally trash the maxima community with the car's abilities?
who cares?
so what if the maxima was meant to be a fun daily driver and not a super-performance machine?
who cares?

so matt. keep your common sense to yourself, and let the noobs dream of 300+ na 3.0l sohc engines.





****, I am sorry, I can't keep this up.

matt, you are a great guy. I it is a great privilege to have you remind us of the car's limits. sure it sounded a little pessimistic, but viewed from a distance (two feet from the monitor) brutally honest.
thanx, bro.

3g94MaxGXE

Geez...twice as stiff as eibachs? 220lbs....how much is stock for both GXE and SE?

Yeah, I understand on the track stuff...alot of people think they can just make a super race car and then street it.

quarter miles I can imagine the VQs take it from all bolt on 3g's....though VGs are built to be turbo'd.


Good number of engines and trannies you've gone through, I hope I don't end up like that.

That's one ridiculous stereo....I like my $200 setup though I wouldn't mind a head unit and maybe a small amp and possibly a single 12" sub. I already shake the mirrors though.

3K isn't horrible on interior mods, more than I'd like to spend since I'm not one of those crazy guys that will spend $500 for a seat.

I'm hoping to keep the stock front discs and swap in some rear disks...not planning on going crazy with Z32 brakes or skyline brakes or any sort of BBK. I'd like to be able to run 15"s if I ever needed to though I like 17"s and the 18" G35 rims are beautiful.

I sort of agree with you on the corvette/IS thing...however I still think a Maxima makes a badass ride, though it doesn't have to be as overdone as yours to be badass. I think a Maxima with bolt ons can be badass.

Gotta agree with your philosophy on what to get...though I don't even know that the cams and ecu are needed but I guess they'd still be good to have

Funny that you mention dead tires...there was some metal sticking through my front left when I rotated tires today....very uneven and unexpected wear....hopefully I can get my suspension mods and get an alignment before I eat through the other tires. My dad had some 215/70/15s laying around which I'm hoping to put in the back till I get my 17s

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

A lot of people take me as a pessimist.. I'm just a realist. I call it like it is. Unfortunately, a lot of people don't like to hear the troof sometimes.

No matter how much you work on a Maxima (of ANY gen, not just 3rd), it's still a heavy FWD 4 door sedan w/ macpherson suspension at the end of the day. you can add all the power and tires you want to it, and it still won't handle like a sports car.

I just hope some of these punks will figure that out before they dump the kinda money I did trying to prove everyone else wrong. Took me a ton of money to learn that physics will ALWAYS win against a FWD car.

3g94MaxGXE

Sounds good to me....though heavy isn't really true of a Maxima...3rd and 4th gens weigh less than alot of sports cars....they just don't have the same power to weight ratio.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

My car weighs 3600lb with me in it.
My 240SX weighs 2800lb.
a corvette is in the 3200lb range.

They're also a LOT closer to the ground and wider, and their weight distribution isn't 63/37...


go ahead.. keep talking....

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

LMAO at this list. Would be a nice and strong more with a bit more power but not much. Look at the list. Only 1 or 2 things are actual power adders. Hell you haven't even mention 2 of the biggest power adders to a NA engine.

burhan92SE

u sound disappointed man....but its not the matter that 3rd gen doesnt handle like a sports car, all it matters that it handles way better than MANY FWD cars....and it has the ability to destroy many cars on the road today...NOT ALL...obviously nothing is perfect.....dats wat i think