my attempt at a build thread
07-05-2008, 10:08 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: chicago IL
Posts: 661
my attempt at a build thread
So i decided to rebuild my setup. Old setup has over 50k miles on it and since it was only made of regular steel to begin with, its has become a bit tired. There were a few cracks that were starting to bother me. Since i built my last setup my fabricating capabilities have changes so.. i figured i would finally apply it to my own car. With this new build i wanted to experiment with something that has been on my mind for quite some while. A "Quick Spool Valve". Basically ..My turbo is huge, and i Love the top end. Yet, i know i could really benefit from better spool. So rather than sacrifice the great top i decided to try this. To sum it all up, the valve when you first hit the gas, it will divert all the exhaust through one scroll of the turbo. This essentially changes the turbo from being a 1.32 a/r into a .66 a/r. Hopefully this mean i will get full boost sooner than 4000-4500 rpms. so.. on with the pictures.
Valve.
closed
open
headers and y pipe
Valve.
closed
open
headers and y pipe
07-06-2008, 10:05 AM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: chicago IL
Posts: 661
The valve will be controlled electronically using a starter style solenoid to actuate it. the solenoid will be controlled using a circuit that my electrical engineer friend is building for me. Basically using the same map sensor voltage that my engine management datalogs, at chosen points in that voltage scale it will turn on the solenoid and then at a higher voltage turn the valve off again. The kick in and kick out points will all be adjustable. This will mean while cruising the valve will be open allowing the engine to breath as well as possible in order to maximize mileage, then once i punch the throttle and manifold pressure reaches say 3 inchs vacuum, the valve will slam shut. This in order to help spool. From there once the boost reaches say 10psi, the valve will be ordered open again. The turbo is ideally spooled at this point and the engine will have no problem reaching the ultimate desired boost levels of some where in the high teens and eventually twenty's.
07-06-2008, 08:18 PM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 22
man, finally....a build thread from my little brother.
the pics dont do it justice, the fab. work is very impressive. the old setup turned heads for 3 years, and the new one should do that much better, while making the car an 11 second car finally
the pics dont do it justice, the fab. work is very impressive. the old setup turned heads for 3 years, and the new one should do that much better, while making the car an 11 second car finally
07-09-2008, 10:38 PM
#20
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: chicago IL
Posts: 661
Oil take off for the new oil cooler/filter relocation setup im installing.
finished fabing my new front engine mount. still have the back to go. i feel it turned out well. All poly bushing.
07-13-2008, 06:47 PM
#35
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Montreal Canada
Posts: 299
I just love the ideas behind this build, its definitely been discussed between me and some guys I know before, 'the efficient turbo setup' is what we'd call it, big turbo with no lag due to twin-scroll with one side spooling right away by building quick pressure and heat, than utilizing the flow of both sides for the lots of power capabilities, its like a twin turbo setup but with half the pipes and weight! Just love it! Can't wait to see a dyno! Bet you'd make twice as much torque as before, better get some good rubber if u don't already have some. lol
07-14-2008, 05:11 PM
#39
Looks nice, but I'd like to offer some of my experience from breaking stuff... you'll need to reinforce your crossmember more than you have. I don't know if you put any plate across the bottom too, but you need to run a section of plate down the sides of the xmember near that engine mount. you should also weld some small gussets onto the leading and trailing edge where it sticks up so that you don't tear that mount off the crossmember when all that heat-hardened metal around the welds starts cracking.
(Don't ask how I know.)
..... And when are you going to start building equal length headers for us NA guys? I'd do it myself, but don't have the time...
(Don't ask how I know.)
..... And when are you going to start building equal length headers for us NA guys? I'd do it myself, but don't have the time...
07-14-2008, 05:31 PM
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: chicago IL
Posts: 661
Looks nice, but I'd like to offer some of my experience from breaking stuff... you'll need to reinforce your crossmember more than you have. I don't know if you put any plate across the bottom too, but you need to run a section of plate down the sides of the xmember near that engine mount. you should also weld some small gussets onto the leading and trailing edge where it sticks up so that you don't tear that mount off the crossmember when all that heat-hardened metal around the welds starts cracking.
(Don't ask how I know.)
..... And when are you going to start building equal length headers for us NA guys? I'd do it myself, but don't have the time...
(Don't ask how I know.)
..... And when are you going to start building equal length headers for us NA guys? I'd do it myself, but don't have the time...
well.. i reinforced the cross member when i first turboed the car and it was fine up to almost 400 ft/lbs. That includes 6500 rpm clutch drops on 26 inch slicks.. and hours on the road coarse. With the modifications i have made it even stronger. since the pictures i added even more steel to the front and gusseted the rear mount, and yes the bottom has a steel plate running all the way down it.
Thanks everyone to the positive feedback. This build is killing me and my wallet.