Washington D.C. areaDC, MD, NC, VA, WV Maxima owners.
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Sorry about the cell phone pics, but I forgot to take my camera with me.
Pics first:
Now the prose:
I finally bought this yesterday, after a couple of weeks of research, consideration, and contemplation. Title in-hand, but the car is still at the shop (more below).
The purpose will be to play with as a project or track car (primarily autoX) and to drive every now and then on the weekends. My wife may take it to work to cut miles on her Pilot.
Car has 160K on the clock and is a 5MT. It looks like a 20 year-old car, and has sat for a few months. According to realoem, the car has an LSD diff. However, according to a VIN check, open diff. Don't know the ratio.
I need to look at the differential tag.
Positives:
Good price, and a parts car is available. (The seller has a quasi-BMW junkyard.)
Underside is in really good shape, from a rust perspective. Nothing but very minor surfact rust.
Interior is in pretty good shape. Driver's seat has some bolster wear.
Exterior trim is all black-out.
Pioneer CD player (who really cares? But it works...)
Engine sounds GREAT.
Transmission shifts well.
Seller threw in some other small stuff (E36 window switches, a new battery from an E36 that he just brought in, new clock, misc small interior trim parts, etc.)
It has a nearly-complete tool kit, and I can grab other parts out of the yard to make it complete trunk tool kit.
Sunroof (manual crank!!!) seems to work properly. I actually wish that it had manual windows, too. (See below.)
Seller also has a trunk with spoiler available (but wants $50 for the spoiler!).
Car has Hella elipsiodals, though one high-beam has a crack.
The bad:
Exterior has some small rust bubbles but nothing that cannot be fixed easily.
Will need new CSB, so probably a new driveshaft (though he will sell me the one off of the parts car- which has NOT gone bad- to use to replace the guibo/CSB with new, if I don't want to buy a whole new DS).
Also needs the usual parts/service/maintainance for a car that sat: plugs, rubber suspension bits, brakes (most likely), etc.
Paint and interior need some elbow grease, for sure.
Passenger window is not working, but the driver's side is.
2 tires are flat, but for $50, I can mix-and-match other good bottlecaps from his parts car(s) to make a rolling set.
So from here, I plan to have him (the seller) help me with a DS install, since he has a lift and tools to make it happen, plus he has done the install in an E36 many times. I will likely source a new (newsed) rear DS section, new CSB, and new guibo, then we will do the DS install and I will drive it home.
After that, first priority will be safety and reliability stuff- brakes (pads, rotors, sensors, flush), hoses, timing belt, maybe front struts (the rears are fine). If I do suspension, I will go ahead and lower it, and probably replace some rubber parts while I am at it.
__________________ 321VQ35MAX - 03 Black 6spd T.E - Injen CAI-Tein S Tech Springs - Tokico Illuminas - Clear Markers- ES Shifter bushings - ES subframe bushings - ES mount inserts
I got rid of a 1992 318 sedan. The 318 was slower, heavier, and needed more work. Plus, when I sold it (Decembar) I wanted to focus on the truck that I have been working on. Selling the E36 let me pay cash for the truck and most of the work that I have done to it.
Now that the truck is at 95%, I decided to get the E30 325, because with it already having the I6 and being in overall better shape, getting it track-ready will be a lot easier than the E36 woudl have been, and I have a faster, better-handling car to boot.
I personally like the E36 style better, but the E30 is better as a dedicated project/track car. I did not want to have to spend a lot of $$$ on a 4-cyl project sedan to have it still be slower than what this E30 is right out of the box. Plus, the E30 is cheaper to mod (except for wheels, for some reason). 15" tires look and perform well on an E30...cheap cheap cheap.
~$500 for suspension, $200 for brakes, $3-400 for wheels and servicable tires, and I am up and running for under $2K.
Dibs on driving at auto-x Congrats man, that thing is gonna be a blast!
I think it will be. I just bought a driveshaft yesterday and hope to get it in the Monday after next. You can drive it after I get the bugs worked out. Just don't be like Josh and Jason and turn a faster time than I do in MY car!
Quote:
Originally Posted by irish44j
I dib thee "Cutler Junior"
Guilty as charged. Although Jason is right...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cutler
Pat has had more beaters than me
I have, I think. Counting my trucks, I have had:
1990 F-250 4x4 long bed (work truck, technically)
1991 (I think) SE-R
1995 Cherokee SE 4x4
1992 318i
1988 Comanche (still have that one)
and now the 1988 325
I have also had (in that time period) the SpecV, the 2004 Grand Cherokee, and the Legacy as daily drivers.
I think it will be. I just bought a driveshaft yesterday and hope to get it in the Monday after next. You can drive it after I get the bugs worked out. Just don't be like Josh and Jason and turn a faster time than I do in MY car!
Guilty as charged. Although Jason is right...
I have, I think. Counting my trucks, I have had:
1990 F-250 4x4 long bed (work truck, technically)
1991 (I think) SE-R
1995 Cherokee SE 4x4
1992 318i
1988 Comanche (still have that one)
and now the 1988 325
I have also had (in that time period) the SpecV, the 2004 Grand Cherokee, and the Legacy as daily drivers.
lol super eta. I didn't see until I looked at your thread on r3vlimted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by phenryiv1
I might build a stroker (2.8L) using the head from a 325i/s, but I doubt that I will be doing a V8 swap any time soon.
Nice thought, though!
2.7 stroker. Luckily you have the super eta with domed pistons; any earlier and you'd have the plain jane eta and you'd either need to source super eta pistons or you'd just need to go with the inferior 731 head (from a 323i) for proper compression. With the super eta bottom end you can go straight for the better flowing 885 head out of the M20B25 (325i) cars.
Until then my sh*tbox will internet-outrun your sh*tbox
Finally got it to my house. I had it towed because I was too lazy to re-install the exhaust in the lot at the shop and I could not work out lift time with the shop owner.
I have a bunch of parts and maintainance items to install, now that it is here.
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When can I detail that thing? I got my Zune parts and I need them installed before I drive to Nashville for the beam bending (keeps fingers crossed) on Nov. 14th....BTW did you get my text about what to do with the heads?
__________________
-----5-speed DE-K with 205 whp and 199 wtq SAE corrected-----
-------Shortened Koni Yellows/Eibachs, Cobra/Q45/Hawk/SS-------
--SFC S.2, LTB S.2, RSB, FSTB, TB's (removed!), all ES bushings--
-------------Enkei RPM2/Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus-------------
When can I detail that thing? I got my Zune parts and I need them installed before I drive to Nashville for the beam bending (keeps fingers crossed) on Nov. 14th.
Text me tomorrow and I will check my calendar at work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
Did you get my text about what to do with the heads?
Yeah. The more I look at it, the more I think it has already been rebuilt, and recently. I need to check the finish on the valves to see if they seat tightly, but if they do, I am going to assume that it was recently rebuilt. Look how clean the cam and springs look.
No matter what, I will be replacing the gaskets and adjust he valves, but I read a few guides on testig the valve seals to determine if a rebuild is necessary.
Before I start bolting together, I need to run a compression test. THAT I don't know how to do- yet.
fun! If you need a hand I have a buddy who used to have a pretty fast e30. He can help.
...needs suspension for autocross....
I plan to do bille sports and H&R sports, or possibly H&R race. This car won't see a lot of casual drive time, so I can go relatively stiff with my springs.
I'd go with GC coilovers if I had the $$$.
What is the name/username of the guy with the E30?
Congrats man, that thing is gonna be a blast!
Luckily you have the super eta with domed pistons; any earlier and you'd have the plain jane eta and you'd either need to source super eta pistons or you'd just need to go with the inferior 731 head (from a 323i) for proper compression. With the super eta bottom end you can go straight for the better flowing 885 head out of the M20B25 (325i) cars.
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