Max_King's Newbie Turbo Build
01-02-2012, 02:04 PM
#41
After the turbo in the down pipe far enough way from the turbo so the o2 does not get too much heat from the actual turbo.
Stock ecu cannot compensate for injectors that big. That is why you are having issues with the car starting and trying to stay alive. Either remove the injectors or pull fuel back with the EU. Better hope you dont wash out the cylinders.
Stock ecu cannot compensate for injectors that big. That is why you are having issues with the car starting and trying to stay alive. Either remove the injectors or pull fuel back with the EU. Better hope you dont wash out the cylinders.
My car with a AFPR (set to base fuel, 36psi) and 600cc injectors can run of the stock ECU. So yah...
On the subject, why don't you have a wideband hooked up...that's working backwards right there, remove the guess work and save yourself time/questions that can be answered with one glance. That and how do you know if you decide to take the car for a spin that you won't run it lean?
On the subject, why don't you have a wideband hooked up...that's working backwards right there, remove the guess work and save yourself time/questions that can be answered with one glance. That and how do you know if you decide to take the car for a spin that you won't run it lean?
well obviously you are running too rich. turn your fuel pressure down to at least get the start-up/idle afr into the ballpark or pull back the injectors with eu.
but yeah... you have your number 1 tool for trouble shooting this (wideband) sitting on the sidelines being unused... why is that?
but yeah... you have your number 1 tool for trouble shooting this (wideband) sitting on the sidelines being unused... why is that?
No exhaust, I don't recall any popping from the intake.
Thanks everyone for your inputs, I may not have been clear in my posts but the reason stuff is not hooked up because I haven't really started the install. I only installed the injectors because I had to pull the VCs. I was trying to install the EU before I install the turbo that way I can monitor things and get a rough tune in as soon as stuff gets hooked up but I ran into these issues while trying to install the EU.
If I can get the EU running right, if I just scale the injectors would that solve the issue or is that just a way to scale the adjustments?
Should I just complete the install and just work out all the kinks later when I have everything installed?
01-02-2012, 02:57 PM
#42
What you're describing sounds like a big vacum leak. It's common after replacing the 00VI. The egr guide tube (or block off if its a 2001 max) sometimes doesn't seat properly causing a huge leak. If you reused the stock gasket for the IM, that could be a suspect too. Mine did exactly the same thing you're describing, except I had popping from both the intake and exhaust. So just recheck this to eliminate this possibility.
Also, in closed loop mode, the stock ecu will try to control the injectors based on feedback from the o2s like I said before I think. But I don't know how effective it does that with injectors this much larger than stock.
Also, in closed loop mode, the stock ecu will try to control the injectors based on feedback from the o2s like I said before I think. But I don't know how effective it does that with injectors this much larger than stock.
01-02-2012, 03:13 PM
#43
What you're describing sounds like a big vacum leak. It's common after replacing the 00VI. The egr guide tube (or block off if its a 2001 max) sometimes doesn't seat properly causing a huge leak. If you reused the stock gasket for the IM, that could be a suspect too. Mine did exactly the same thing you're describing, except I had popping from both the intake and exhaust. So just recheck this to eliminate this possibility.
Also, in closed loop mode, the stock ecu will try to control the injectors based on feedback from the o2s like I said before I think. But I don't know how effective it does that with injectors this much larger than stock.
Also, in closed loop mode, the stock ecu will try to control the injectors based on feedback from the o2s like I said before I think. But I don't know how effective it does that with injectors this much larger than stock.
01-02-2012, 03:35 PM
#45
Yes I did, I had some extra ngk iridium plugs that were sitting around so I through them in and the old ones were all black and fouled and had a strong gas odor. I show them in the vid if you watch it you can see what the car is doing and how the plugs look.
01-03-2012, 01:33 AM
#46
Installing a wideband is pretty much the number 1 thing you should do. Even bolt on cars won't run properly if you can't tune it and see what the engine is doing.
I had a huge problem with the intake leak when i installed my NWP spacers. It lifted the IM an 1/8th inch off the EGR blockoff and i couldn't figure out what was happening. So i cut off the bracket and sealed it off that way lol.
I had a huge problem with the intake leak when i installed my NWP spacers. It lifted the IM an 1/8th inch off the EGR blockoff and i couldn't figure out what was happening. So i cut off the bracket and sealed it off that way lol.
01-03-2012, 09:38 AM
#47
I dont undertand why you put in the injectors before even having the EU installed and running properly.
Now if you were already boosted then I could, but it seems your just creating more problems from the get go.
I know you mentioned that you needed to remove the VC but honestly I would have done the EU first, got it running really well then moved on to the next part of the install which couldve been the WB, and then OOVI with injectors. Without the WB installed goona be gard to know how much fuel to pull once the injectors are in, so it really shouldve been installed first.
Doing too many things at once makes trouble shooting issues really hard.
Now if you were already boosted then I could, but it seems your just creating more problems from the get go.
I know you mentioned that you needed to remove the VC but honestly I would have done the EU first, got it running really well then moved on to the next part of the install which couldve been the WB, and then OOVI with injectors. Without the WB installed goona be gard to know how much fuel to pull once the injectors are in, so it really shouldve been installed first.
Doing too many things at once makes trouble shooting issues really hard.
01-03-2012, 02:55 PM
#49
Installing a wideband is pretty much the number 1 thing you should do. Even bolt on cars won't run properly if you can't tune it and see what the engine is doing.
I had a huge problem with the intake leak when i installed my NWP spacers. It lifted the IM an 1/8th inch off the EGR blockoff and i couldn't figure out what was happening. So i cut off the bracket and sealed it off that way lol.
I had a huge problem with the intake leak when i installed my NWP spacers. It lifted the IM an 1/8th inch off the EGR blockoff and i couldn't figure out what was happening. So i cut off the bracket and sealed it off that way lol.
I dont undertand why you put in the injectors before even having the EU installed and running properly.
Now if you were already boosted then I could, but it seems your just creating more problems from the get go.
I know you mentioned that you needed to remove the VC but honestly I would have done the EU first, got it running really well then moved on to the next part of the install which couldve been the WB, and then OOVI with injectors. Without the WB installed goona be gard to know how much fuel to pull once the injectors are in, so it really shouldve been installed first.
Doing too many things at once makes trouble shooting issues really hard.
Now if you were already boosted then I could, but it seems your just creating more problems from the get go.
I know you mentioned that you needed to remove the VC but honestly I would have done the EU first, got it running really well then moved on to the next part of the install which couldve been the WB, and then OOVI with injectors. Without the WB installed goona be gard to know how much fuel to pull once the injectors are in, so it really shouldve been installed first.
Doing too many things at once makes trouble shooting issues really hard.
I haven't installed the WB because it wouldn't make sense to install it on my y-pipe when I'm taking my y-pipe off anyway to install the feedpipe and downpipe. I realize now I should have installed the injectors at the end not first. Dumb mistake but I didn't know, this is my first time doing this, that's why I'm here asking questions.
I'm going to see how the car acts today, if it's able to start and idle fine for a minute I'll get the EU installed and won't drive it period and will just continue the install.
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
01-03-2012, 03:13 PM
#50
how soon is your turbo going in? in two weeks? anything longer than that and you should invest the $50 to weld on an o2 bung. you'll get an extended rev limiter, a RUNNING car and a car that has probably 20 more hp than now. plus you can use all that time until your turbo kit is done to familiarize yourself with the tuning procedure and learn how to use the EMU properly. seriosuly. o2 bung is 50 bucks at most and once you have your turbo piping you'll just swap the hole it's in.
01-03-2012, 03:20 PM
#51
Had to pull the VCs because the dumb pcv grommet fell in the VC at the time, I didn't want to risk damage so I pulled it. I had asked before if I can run them stock and no one said anything so I went ahead and did it while I was in there. I realize it wasn't the best move but that's where I'm at now so it is what it is.
I haven't installed the WB because it wouldn't make sense to install it on my y-pipe when I'm taking my y-pipe off anyway to install the feedpipe and downpipe. I realize now I should have installed the injectors at the end not first. Dumb mistake but I didn't know, this is my first time doing this, that's why I'm here asking questions.
You'll be alright bro, since your turbo is already in you are naturally going to be lean so the injectors will balance it out and then a rough tune should get you in drivable mode at the least.
I'm going to see how the car acts today, if it's able to start and idle fine for a minute I'll get the EU installed and won't drive it period and will just continue the install.
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
I haven't installed the WB because it wouldn't make sense to install it on my y-pipe when I'm taking my y-pipe off anyway to install the feedpipe and downpipe. I realize now I should have installed the injectors at the end not first. Dumb mistake but I didn't know, this is my first time doing this, that's why I'm here asking questions.
You'll be alright bro, since your turbo is already in you are naturally going to be lean so the injectors will balance it out and then a rough tune should get you in drivable mode at the least.
I'm going to see how the car acts today, if it's able to start and idle fine for a minute I'll get the EU installed and won't drive it period and will just continue the install.
Thanks everyone for the feedback!
Seems to me you have a lot to learn before you boost your car, if not your going to.constantly be asking questions and having issues.
You shouldn't need the car to start and idle for you to install the eu, however without it running you won't know if everything is hooked up correctly though.
And without a wideband you won't be able to know just how much fuel to pull in order to get the car running decent.
01-03-2012, 05:14 PM
#52
how soon is your turbo going in? in two weeks? anything longer than that and you should invest the $50 to weld on an o2 bung. you'll get an extended rev limiter, a RUNNING car and a car that has probably 20 more hp than now. plus you can use all that time until your turbo kit is done to familiarize yourself with the tuning procedure and learn how to use the EMU properly. seriosuly. o2 bung is 50 bucks at most and once you have your turbo piping you'll just swap the hole it's in.
01-03-2012, 05:23 PM
#53
Horrible advice, the turbo won't make him go lean, he will want to add fuel as he builds boost though. If he's putting in larger injectors then stock, we won't be ok. He will need something to control their output. Not very hard to figure out, if your cars computer is programmed for a specific size injector you simply cannot install whatever injectors you wish and expect the cars computer to know that and be able to control their flow rate.
Seems to me you have a lot to learn before you boost your car, if not your going to.constantly be asking questions and having issues.
You shouldn't need the car to start and idle for you to install the eu, however without it running you won't know if everything is hooked up correctly though.
And without a wideband you won't be able to know just how much fuel to pull in order to get the car running decent.
Seems to me you have a lot to learn before you boost your car, if not your going to.constantly be asking questions and having issues.
You shouldn't need the car to start and idle for you to install the eu, however without it running you won't know if everything is hooked up correctly though.
And without a wideband you won't be able to know just how much fuel to pull in order to get the car running decent.
I may not know everything but I've been reading a lot and talking to lots of people getting advice, BUT some things you just don't learn till you do it yourself and that's why I need the experience.
I do need the car to run, that's the only way I'll know if the EU is running right. If I decide I can't start and finish the build now, I'll hold off and throw in the wideband and wait till the spring for the turbo install.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 01-03-2012 at 05:25 PM.
01-03-2012, 06:21 PM
#54
Ok I'm trying to get the EU installed but as soon as I plug it in, the car just cranks and cranks and throws the P0335 code for the crank position sensor. I rechecked the wiring and its fine. I disconnected and rewired the connections and it still did the same thing. I rechecked the settings and they are fine as well. I setup everything exactly as is in DandyMax is write up, the jumpers, wiring, and initial settings were all setup exactly as he has them in his write up. Is there something else I'm missing or that should be different then the write up?
01-03-2012, 06:43 PM
#55
If I can get it to an exhaust shop I'll do it, maybe I'll just enjoy the car with the EU and WB in for a few months and hold off on the turbo build. My personal life at the moment isn't allowing for much time to be able to start and finish the install in a reasonable time so I may have to hold off anyway. Thanks.
It'll compensate a certain amount of fuel in closed loop, mine did that and ran fine. Its when I did some hard runs in WOT that I ran rich as **** and flooded the engine. So as he builds boost he'll be running lean and the bigger injectors will compensate for that. I made the mistake by driving an untuned car with bigger injectors like I stole it, he can learn from my mistake. I didn't tell him to ride around like that, I told him it was enough to get it running to get in a rough tune.
I may not know everything but I've been reading a lot and talking to lots of people getting advice, BUT some things you just don't learn till you do it yourself and that's why I need the experience.
I do need the car to run, that's the only way I'll know if the EU is running right. If I decide I can't start and finish the build now, I'll hold off and throw in the wideband and wait till the spring for the turbo install.
I may not know everything but I've been reading a lot and talking to lots of people getting advice, BUT some things you just don't learn till you do it yourself and that's why I need the experience.
I do need the car to run, that's the only way I'll know if the EU is running right. If I decide I can't start and finish the build now, I'll hold off and throw in the wideband and wait till the spring for the turbo install.
Your right, bigger injectors will compensate for the lean factor as boost rises, but without a way to control just how much fuel is being delivered as boost rises he could still flood out, depending on the size of injectors of course.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 01-03-2012 at 06:55 PM.
01-03-2012, 06:45 PM
#56
I'm looking at the FSM and looks like both pins 65 and 75 are the crank position sensor (REF) and I only have the EU cam angle tapped to pin 75, I am supposed to have it tapped to both?
But even if it isn't tapped its going to the ecu anyways so it shouldn't matter as long as the ecu is getting all the signals right?
But even if it isn't tapped its going to the ecu anyways so it shouldn't matter as long as the ecu is getting all the signals right?
01-03-2012, 06:50 PM
#57
Ok I'm trying to get the EU installed but as soon as I plug it in, the car just cranks and cranks and throws the P0335 code for the crank position sensor. I rechecked the wiring and its fine. I disconnected and rewired the connections and it still did the same thing. I rechecked the settings and they are fine as well. I setup everything exactly as is in DandyMax is write up, the jumpers, wiring, and initial settings were all setup exactly as he has them in his write up. Is there something else I'm missing or that should be different then the write up?
Check your plugs again, see what condition their in.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 01-03-2012 at 06:53 PM.
01-03-2012, 07:11 PM
#58
Baby steps, thats the best way. Once the EU is up and running and your able to monitor and adjust your AFRs I would then being going forward with the TC setup
Not entirely true, depending on the size of the injectors the car could flood out before its even running, trust me I know. Some were able to start up and begin pulling fuel at idle. I was not able to do so, as soon as I tried to turn my car over I flooded out immediatly. It took me quite a bit of time, a set of plugs and an oil change before I was able to get it started and running. I had a WB so I was able to see what my AFRs were once I was able to get it to turn over and I began pulling fuel quickly until it smoothed out.
Not entirely true, depending on the size of the injectors the car could flood out before its even running, trust me I know. Some were able to start up and begin pulling fuel at idle. I was not able to do so, as soon as I tried to turn my car over I flooded out immediatly. It took me quite a bit of time, a set of plugs and an oil change before I was able to get it started and running. I had a WB so I was able to see what my AFRs were once I was able to get it to turn over and I began pulling fuel quickly until it smoothed out.
I agree the injector size is the biggest factor, you're right.
01-03-2012, 07:12 PM
#59
Well without the EU it doesn't throw the code and it starts, even though it runs like ****. Once I plug in the EU with the patch harness it throws the p0335 code and won't start, just cranks.
01-04-2012, 06:02 AM
#61
Yea I did everything tripled checked. I noticed that one of the injector wires came off of the pin for the harness, I'll have to solder it back to it but I don't see how that would throw a crank position sensor code?
01-04-2012, 05:10 PM
#62
Man, lots of good info here. What I'll do is the fuel pump and wait on the injectors until im ready to tune it. I should be pretty safe with stock injectors, walbro fuel pump as long as I dont go into boost, right? I shouldnt be riding like that for no longer than a few weeks, at the most. I hope u figure it out soon.
Last edited by VQtHuRtY; 01-04-2012 at 05:17 PM.
01-04-2012, 07:12 PM
#63
Man, lots of good info here. What I'll do is the fuel pump and wait on the injectors until im ready to tune it. I should be pretty safe with stock injectors, walbro fuel pump as long as I dont go into boost, right? I shouldnt be riding like that for no longer than a few weeks, at the most. I hope u figure it out soon.
Here's the issue as diagnosed. The harness is hot garbage with a capital G. The wires are thin and crappy and the the pins are all coming out. I've done installs before directly to the ecu harness and no problems, this is my first EU install but I've installed afcs before and am an electrical engineer so I have had my small share of circuitry and wiring. Idk if I just haven't been careful or whatever but with this boomslang harness its been a pain and its so cheaply made, weak wires, and weak pin connections that I'm having lots of troubles, I keep losing signals trying to start the car. So far I've lost the MAF signal, injectors, coils, and crank signal. I fix one and lose another and I'm done dealing with this crap as its just a hot mess now.
Honestly it was a rookie mistake to buy a cheap harness for something this important, learn from me get a custom patch harness made from a reputable source or one from the members here that make them out of OEM connectors. I contacted SurraT (member here) from voltagedrop.net and turns out he actually can make me a plug and play harness. I've heard nothing but good things about him, so I went with it. He even asked me what different connection options I wanted for the EU and its in the works!
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 01-04-2012 at 07:22 PM.
01-04-2012, 07:17 PM
#64
Man, lots of good info here. What I'll do is the fuel pump and wait on the injectors until im ready to tune it. I should be pretty safe with stock injectors, walbro fuel pump as long as I dont go into boost, right? I shouldnt be riding like that for no longer than a few weeks, at the most. I hope u figure it out soon.
Should be ok as long as you don't hit boost.
Here's the issue as diagnosed. The harness is hot garbage with a capital G. The wires are thin and crappy and the the pins are all coming out. I've done installs before directly to the ecu harness and no problems, this is my first EU install but I've installed afcs before and am an electrical engineer so I have had my small share of circuitry and wiring. Idk if I just haven't been careful or whatever but with this boomslang harness its been a pain and its so cheaply made that I'm having lots of troubles, I keep losing signals trying to start the car. So far I've lost the MAF signal, injectors, coils, and crank signal. I fix one and lose another and I'm done dealing with this crap.
Honestly it was a rookie mistake to buy a cheap harness for something this important, learn from me get a custom patch harness made from a reputable source or one from the members here that make them out of OEM connectors. I contacted SurraT (member here) from voltagedrop.net and turns out he actually can make me a plug and play harness. I've heard nothing but good things about him, so I went with it. He even asked me what different connection options I wanted for the EU and its in the works!
Here's the issue as diagnosed. The harness is hot garbage with a capital G. The wires are thin and crappy and the the pins are all coming out. I've done installs before directly to the ecu harness and no problems, this is my first EU install but I've installed afcs before and am an electrical engineer so I have had my small share of circuitry and wiring. Idk if I just haven't been careful or whatever but with this boomslang harness its been a pain and its so cheaply made that I'm having lots of troubles, I keep losing signals trying to start the car. So far I've lost the MAF signal, injectors, coils, and crank signal. I fix one and lose another and I'm done dealing with this crap.
Honestly it was a rookie mistake to buy a cheap harness for something this important, learn from me get a custom patch harness made from a reputable source or one from the members here that make them out of OEM connectors. I contacted SurraT (member here) from voltagedrop.net and turns out he actually can make me a plug and play harness. I've heard nothing but good things about him, so I went with it. He even asked me what different connection options I wanted for the EU and its in the works!
01-04-2012, 07:36 PM
#65
Idk bro, I'm going to contact the guy from boomslang that "assured" me it was a good harness and it would work with my car. Its actually the 00-03 sentra harness and its exactly the same as the 00-01 max, its been used by another member before and iirc he had an issue with something as well but I don't remember it being directly harness related but maybe it was. They have these harness just sitting in a warehouse somewhere and you can tell it was just mass produced. I was disappointed when I first pulled it out the box. The wires are so small I have to use the smallest hole on my wire stripper when for the EU wires I use the third or fourth hole, just giving a reference to put it in perspective. I replaced some of its wires with my own wire but I don't have enough or the time to redo the whole harness that would be pointless. I know they won't let me return it but maybe they'll reimburse me some.
01-05-2012, 01:22 PM
#67
Should be ok as long as you don't hit boost. The walbro install isn't straight forward either as I had thought (maybe you know this but I didn't when I went to install it) so if you have any questions lmk. There is some minor things that need to be done to fit it correctly, I actually found the info after I installed mine.
Here's the issue as diagnosed. The harness is hot garbage with a capital G. The wires are thin and crappy and the the pins are all coming out. I've done installs before directly to the ecu harness and no problems, this is my first EU install but I've installed afcs before and am an electrical engineer so I have had my small share of circuitry and wiring. Idk if I just haven't been careful or whatever but with this boomslang harness its been a pain and its so cheaply made, weak wires, and weak pin connections that I'm having lots of troubles, I keep losing signals trying to start the car. So far I've lost the MAF signal, injectors, coils, and crank signal. I fix one and lose another and I'm done dealing with this crap as its just a hot mess now.
Honestly it was a rookie mistake to buy a cheap harness for something this important, learn from me get a custom patch harness made from a reputable source or one from the members here that make them out of OEM connectors. I contacted SurraT (member here) from voltagedrop.net and turns out he actually can make me a plug and play harness. I've heard nothing but good things about him, so I went with it. He even asked me what different connection options I wanted for the EU and its in the works!
01-06-2012, 06:21 AM
#68
That sucks. Sorry to hear.
Does SurraT only do harnesses for EU? I wonder if he can make me one for the FIC6... Let me know how that goes.
01-06-2012, 10:57 AM
#69
Emails between me and boomslang 
The Maxima harness you have uses two different sizes of contacts.
The large size contacts support 18 AWG. These large contacts fit inside only 16 of the harness cavities.
The small size contacts support 22 AWG. These small contacts fit inside the remainder of the cavities.
We use both sizes. The majority of which are 22 AWG like I said.
The Ultimate uses a completely different family of contacts. Different part number, different size, different crimp tools, etc.
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 9:23 AM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
I find your response to be a bit attacking, not sure if that was your intent. You are contradicting yourself as you stated before that you use 18 gauge wire when that is clearly not the case and now you admit to using 22 gauge wire. I know how wire gauge is sized, I am an electrical engineer so I understand wire very well.
Saying the Ultimate uses a different crimp contact style to accommodate for larger gauge wire is a statement that shows the inferiority of your harnesses contacts. Other harnesses use wires and contacts that are up to par with the contacts and wires that are used on the OEM ECU harness, E-Manage Ultimate harness, etc, etc.
You clearly know the weaknesses of your harness, as they are basically stated in your response. I get the drift that you won't honor any type of refund because I have hacked up the harness. Understandable but expect the loss of a possible new customer and expect a not so positive review based on my bad experience with your product.
Thank You for your time.
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Friday, January 6, 2012 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
The bulk of the crimp contacts used in that type of extension harness are for a maximum wire size of 20 AWG, hence our use of 22AWG wire.
Wire gauge is based on conductor size, not insulation diameter.
The Ultimate uses a difference crimp contact style and it can accommodate larger gauge wire.
Since you have tried modifications to the harness and subsequently ruined the harness, that is unfortunate.
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 10:21 PM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
My other harness, my ecu, and my e-manage ultimate all have wire at least twice as thick as the wire that is used on your harness, it's not an opinion sorry its a fact. I had to use the smallest setting on my wire stripper which is 22-20 gauge and on the others I used the 16 gauge settings. The connections from the wires to the pins are the ones that started coming loose. I found that I lost voltage at the pins themselves. I became fed up and just quit on it. The wires are flexible but that is because they are thinner. I've had experience with wiring before and the thicker the less flexible.
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
Shadi,
I can assure you that the wire we use is not cheap. It is automotive grade 18 gauge and 22 gauge TXL wire. TXL uses an ultra tough insulation that is still very flexible.
All of the connections are soldered.
What part of the harness broke to cause signal problems?
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 1:17 PM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
Rustin,
I am sad to inform you that I am very disappointed in the harness I purchased from you guys. The wires are very cheap and thin and the connections at the pins are weak to say the least. I ended up having to spend more money to buy a more quality harness to complete my install. I was losing voltage for various signals using your harness. This is not my first type of install but it is the first time using Boomslang's extension harness and its been a bad experience for me. I don't know if you can do anything for me but I feel like I have wasted my money on a product that just doesn't cut it. If you need proof I will ship you back your harness to reassure you that I wasn't able to use it and that I'm not just trying to pull some type of scam. I'm contacting you to inform you of my problem and attempt to recuperate some of my money, not in any way to attack you or your product.
Thank You,
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Monday, December 5, 2011 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
Yes, the 00-03 Sentra extension is the same as the 2000 Maxima, thanks!
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2011 12:18 AM
To: info@boomslang.us
Subject: Extension Harness
Do an extensions harness for a 2000 Nissan Maxima? I heard the 00-03 Nissan Sentra harness will work since its the same but I wasn't sure. Thanks.
I didn't even bother to reply, the guys completely ignoring the fact that I asked for some type of refund and continuously contradicts himself about the wires and contacts. I used the smallest hole on my wire stripper which is 22 AWG. The ECU and EU wires are more then twice the diameter and more rigid. Weak flexible wire is not a good thing as he is trying to make it sound, the wire is only flexibly because of the lack of conductors, insulation is always flexible regardless, its the copper conductors that mostly attribute to the flexibility, and when called out on it he ignored. Don't waste your money buying from this vendor.
The Maxima harness you have uses two different sizes of contacts.
The large size contacts support 18 AWG. These large contacts fit inside only 16 of the harness cavities.
The small size contacts support 22 AWG. These small contacts fit inside the remainder of the cavities.
We use both sizes. The majority of which are 22 AWG like I said.
The Ultimate uses a completely different family of contacts. Different part number, different size, different crimp tools, etc.
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 9:23 AM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
I find your response to be a bit attacking, not sure if that was your intent. You are contradicting yourself as you stated before that you use 18 gauge wire when that is clearly not the case and now you admit to using 22 gauge wire. I know how wire gauge is sized, I am an electrical engineer so I understand wire very well.
Saying the Ultimate uses a different crimp contact style to accommodate for larger gauge wire is a statement that shows the inferiority of your harnesses contacts. Other harnesses use wires and contacts that are up to par with the contacts and wires that are used on the OEM ECU harness, E-Manage Ultimate harness, etc, etc.
You clearly know the weaknesses of your harness, as they are basically stated in your response. I get the drift that you won't honor any type of refund because I have hacked up the harness. Understandable but expect the loss of a possible new customer and expect a not so positive review based on my bad experience with your product.
Thank You for your time.
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Friday, January 6, 2012 9:09 AM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
The bulk of the crimp contacts used in that type of extension harness are for a maximum wire size of 20 AWG, hence our use of 22AWG wire.
Wire gauge is based on conductor size, not insulation diameter.
The Ultimate uses a difference crimp contact style and it can accommodate larger gauge wire.
Since you have tried modifications to the harness and subsequently ruined the harness, that is unfortunate.
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 10:21 PM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
My other harness, my ecu, and my e-manage ultimate all have wire at least twice as thick as the wire that is used on your harness, it's not an opinion sorry its a fact. I had to use the smallest setting on my wire stripper which is 22-20 gauge and on the others I used the 16 gauge settings. The connections from the wires to the pins are the ones that started coming loose. I found that I lost voltage at the pins themselves. I became fed up and just quit on it. The wires are flexible but that is because they are thinner. I've had experience with wiring before and the thicker the less flexible.
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
Shadi,
I can assure you that the wire we use is not cheap. It is automotive grade 18 gauge and 22 gauge TXL wire. TXL uses an ultra tough insulation that is still very flexible.
All of the connections are soldered.
What part of the harness broke to cause signal problems?
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 1:17 PM
To: Boomslang Fabrication
Subject: Re: Extension Harness
Rustin,
I am sad to inform you that I am very disappointed in the harness I purchased from you guys. The wires are very cheap and thin and the connections at the pins are weak to say the least. I ended up having to spend more money to buy a more quality harness to complete my install. I was losing voltage for various signals using your harness. This is not my first type of install but it is the first time using Boomslang's extension harness and its been a bad experience for me. I don't know if you can do anything for me but I feel like I have wasted my money on a product that just doesn't cut it. If you need proof I will ship you back your harness to reassure you that I wasn't able to use it and that I'm not just trying to pull some type of scam. I'm contacting you to inform you of my problem and attempt to recuperate some of my money, not in any way to attack you or your product.
Thank You,
Shadi
From: Boomslang Fabrication <info@boomslang.us>
To:
Sent: Monday, December 5, 2011 9:43 AM
Subject: RE: Extension Harness
Yes, the 00-03 Sentra extension is the same as the 2000 Maxima, thanks!
Regards,
Rustin W. Bernskoetter
Boomslang Fabrication LLC
573.635.6656 voice
573.635.6643 fax
From:
Sent: Sunday, December 04, 2011 12:18 AM
To: info@boomslang.us
Subject: Extension Harness
Do an extensions harness for a 2000 Nissan Maxima? I heard the 00-03 Nissan Sentra harness will work since its the same but I wasn't sure. Thanks.
I didn't even bother to reply, the guys completely ignoring the fact that I asked for some type of refund and continuously contradicts himself about the wires and contacts. I used the smallest hole on my wire stripper which is 22 AWG. The ECU and EU wires are more then twice the diameter and more rigid. Weak flexible wire is not a good thing as he is trying to make it sound, the wire is only flexibly because of the lack of conductors, insulation is always flexible regardless, its the copper conductors that mostly attribute to the flexibility, and when called out on it he ignored. Don't waste your money buying from this vendor.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 01-06-2012 at 11:12 AM.
01-06-2012, 08:54 PM
#71
01-07-2012, 03:18 PM
#72
The guy tried to run in circles, you can't dispute fact!
Hopefully he can hook you up with something, good luck bro!
01-08-2012, 12:05 PM
#73
01-08-2012, 05:55 PM
#74
01-09-2012, 07:49 PM
#75
I see grammar is not your forte. I hope you do a better job working on your car than you do putting a sentence together. Bwahaha. Just teasing you, bro. Get this biatch running already!
01-14-2012, 10:46 PM
#76
Switched back to the stock injectors and still the same ****. I had a feeling that under closed loop the car should be able to control the injectors and I was right. Turns out my ignition coils were fired to the point where they were bubbled up and melted. I am not sure how this happened but 4 of the 6 were bubbled and melted. I replaced them and now the car is fine, I assume my first attempts at installing the EU ended up frying the coils somehow. The EU is currently in and the car is running fine. Is there a problem with the EU burning coils? I heard of something before about the EU burning coils. Also, I don't have the resistors wired into the EU, I heard this is just to prevent a code from being thrown but does it also prevent the EU from burning the coils if an issue exists?
01-15-2012, 02:17 PM
#77
Switched back to the stock injectors and still the same ****. I had a feeling that under closed loop the car should be able to control the injectors and I was right. Turns out my ignition coils were fired to the point where they were bubbled up and melted. I am not sure how this happened but 4 of the 6 were bubbled and melted. I replaced them and now the car is fine, I assume my first attempts at installing the EU ended up frying the coils somehow. The EU is currently in and the car is running fine. Is there a problem with the EU burning coils? I heard of something before about the EU burning coils. Also, I don't have the resistors wired into the EU, I heard this is just to prevent a code from being thrown but does it also prevent the EU from burning the coils if an issue exists?
Wow, do you know what EMU board version you have? I seen somewhere that "XXXX" version and newer didnt have burning coil issues. Maybe you have a older EMU board?
So the PNP EMU is running fine now? Would you post up your jumper settings, and maybe emu settings? In case anyone else wants me to wire one up for them like yours. Its nice that you have Coolant temp, Air temp, and Knock. I always thought you could only chose 2 of those 3.
Glad you got it running!
01-15-2012, 02:49 PM
#78
Wow, do you know what EMU board version you have? I seen somewhere that "XXXX" version and newer didnt have burning coil issues. Maybe you have a older EMU board?
So the PNP EMU is running fine now? Would you post up your jumper settings, and maybe emu settings? In case anyone else wants me to wire one up for them like yours. Its nice that you have Coolant temp, Air temp, and Knock. I always thought you could only chose 2 of those 3.
Glad you got it running!
So the PNP EMU is running fine now? Would you post up your jumper settings, and maybe emu settings? In case anyone else wants me to wire one up for them like yours. Its nice that you have Coolant temp, Air temp, and Knock. I always thought you could only chose 2 of those 3.
Glad you got it running!
Yes your AWESOME PnP Harness is working fantastic, my settings are exactly as is in DandyMax's write up. I do need to change jumper 13 to open, there is a note in the write up that even though its supposed to be set to 1-2 that if you are using the coolant temp sensor and the fans don't come on you would need to set it to open and yesterday I let the car idle for about 15 mins and the fans never came on but the car wasn't over heating or anything.
I believe my first harness had issues or I made a wiring mistake (which I really doubt since I checked it 8 times total) because with that harness it threw the crank sensor code and it wouldn't start and after that the issue started.
People save yourself the trouble and just pickup a PnP harness from SurraTT (Darren), it makes for a cleaner install and is great quality. Also, makes switching back to stock so easy. Thanks Darren!
01-15-2012, 03:24 PM
#79
I'm not sure of the board version but the EU is fairly new not older then a year.
Yes your AWESOME PnP Harness is working fantastic, my settings are exactly as is in DandyMax's write up. I do need to change jumper 13 to open, there is a note in the write up that even though its supposed to be set to 1-2 that if you are using the coolant temp sensor and the fans don't come on you would need to set it to open and yesterday I let the car idle for about 15 mins and the fans never came on but the car wasn't over heating or anything.
I believe my first harness had issues or I made a wiring mistake (which I really doubt since I checked it 8 times total) because with that harness it threw the crank sensor code and it wouldn't start and after that the issue started.
People save yourself the trouble and just pickup a PnP harness from SurraTT (Darren), it makes for a cleaner install and is great quality. Also, makes switching back to stock so easy. Thanks Darren!
Yes your AWESOME PnP Harness is working fantastic, my settings are exactly as is in DandyMax's write up. I do need to change jumper 13 to open, there is a note in the write up that even though its supposed to be set to 1-2 that if you are using the coolant temp sensor and the fans don't come on you would need to set it to open and yesterday I let the car idle for about 15 mins and the fans never came on but the car wasn't over heating or anything.
I believe my first harness had issues or I made a wiring mistake (which I really doubt since I checked it 8 times total) because with that harness it threw the crank sensor code and it wouldn't start and after that the issue started.
People save yourself the trouble and just pickup a PnP harness from SurraTT (Darren), it makes for a cleaner install and is great quality. Also, makes switching back to stock so easy. Thanks Darren!
Oh hmm ok, i would like to find some more info on which EMU units burn coils.
Cool thanks!
Oh hmm, so once you change jumper 13 its all good?
Yeah, the real issue with that harness is the fact it didn't have any protection on the wires coming off the main plug (where all the wires are soldered to) They can EASILY bend, become brittle and even break completely off!!! That is dangerous and if that happens the whole harness is useless. Years ago i noticed this and decided its a MUST to add something to give this area strength. So now i use a very nice black smooth sealant. This adds strength to that area and makes the harness just look better overall. I just think the black wire and black sealant just make the harness look great!
Thank you for the kind words! Im just a Maxima enthusiast trying to help fill a void in the Maxima community. ESP with modding a car tuning is a often missed spot just because its such a "Pain" to do, im making that easy with Full Plug and Play setups!
As Always cell # in signature, if ya need anything else dont hesitate to TXT, CALL, i can even video chat (no homo) hahahaah
IN for dyno numbers!
Last edited by SurraTT; 01-15-2012 at 03:38 PM.
01-15-2012, 04:12 PM
#80
Oh hmm ok, i would like to find some more info on which EMU units burn coils.
Cool thanks!
Oh hmm, so once you change jumper 13 its all good?
Yeah, the real issue with that harness is the fact it didn't have any protection on the wires coming off the main plug (where all the wires are soldered to) They can EASILY bend, become brittle and even break completely off!!! That is dangerous and if that happens the whole harness is useless. Years ago i noticed this and decided its a MUST to add something to give this area strength. So now i use a very nice black smooth sealant. This adds strength to that area and makes the harness just look better overall. I just think the black wire and black sealant just make the harness look great!
Thank you for the kind words! Im just a Maxima enthusiast trying to help fill a void in the Maxima community. ESP with modding a car tuning is a often missed spot just because its such a "Pain" to do, im making that easy with Full Plug and Play setups!
As Always cell # in signature, if ya need anything else dont hesitate to TXT, CALL, i can even video chat (no homo) hahahaah
IN for dyno numbers!
Cool thanks!
Oh hmm, so once you change jumper 13 its all good?
Yeah, the real issue with that harness is the fact it didn't have any protection on the wires coming off the main plug (where all the wires are soldered to) They can EASILY bend, become brittle and even break completely off!!! That is dangerous and if that happens the whole harness is useless. Years ago i noticed this and decided its a MUST to add something to give this area strength. So now i use a very nice black smooth sealant. This adds strength to that area and makes the harness just look better overall. I just think the black wire and black sealant just make the harness look great!
Thank you for the kind words! Im just a Maxima enthusiast trying to help fill a void in the Maxima community. ESP with modding a car tuning is a often missed spot just because its such a "Pain" to do, im making that easy with Full Plug and Play setups!
As Always cell # in signature, if ya need anything else dont hesitate to TXT, CALL, i can even video chat (no homo) hahahaah
IN for dyno numbers!
Yea after I switch jumper 13 to open it'll be prefect.
Thanks for all your help! I have to say I was really surprised with the quality of your harness, not to say I was doubting you but you made it so quick and it is so well put together. Also, the use of bigger gauge wire is a plus, I'm an electrical engineer so I know a thing or two about wires and seeing the use of the right gauge is impressive since others skimp out on this important concept. In order to eliminate voltage decay and keep the correct level of voltage across the signal the right gauge wire is essential.
With the other harness exactly what you just said happened. I found one of the pins for the injectors had actually broke off and even after fixing the harness it still was causing multiple codes to be thrown for various signals including MAF, CKPS, etc. I was losing voltage all over the place and the fact they used 22 gauge wire voltage signals were weak. You can look at the emails above and see all the details.
Anyway aside from all that the car will be getting a rough N/A tune so I can gain some experience with the use of the EU. It's freezing cold in my garage and I've been so busy with work that the turbo build will have to hold off for a bit of time. I actually will be out of town this coming week so nothing will get done till I come back if the weather permits.
Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 01-15-2012 at 04:16 PM.