allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

i recently re-entered the world of boost on my 98 5 speed max. ive had a fully bolted on with spray 6mt 5.5 gen, a v2 supercharged i30 5mt. for the past 6 months or so ive been piecing together a turbo kit for my 98. after all the install of everything was done(ill list my mods in a minute), it finally ran(this past saturday, i put about 80 miles on it and had my first issue, i was coasting at about 45mph in gear and i put it in neutral and the car stalled out, i tried restarting it while moving and it just cranked, almost starting but it just wouldnt turn over, so i popped the clutch and got it going, it stalled out again the next time i let it try to idle(popped the clutch again), brought it to my friends house, let it cool down for awhile and it started up. so i went home, let it cool down over night, and drove to work with no problems, the CEL had illumiated(p1335) and a p0174(bank two system lean), so i inspected the crank sensor to find no issues... drove home and about 7 miles into the trip it stalled out again, of course i was barely moving so i got stuck, it took about 30 minutes of sitting there on the side of the road and finally she turned over and i made it home. when i got home i shut her down and tried to restart, to only find lots of smoke coming out of the downpipe. the CEL stays on while cranking. that was yesterday, today i did some diagnostics and found my iacv connector was not trimmed enough(it wasnt connected) i trimmed the rest up, and attemped to start it, it started but i did again get some smoke out of the tailpipe(it only smokes while cranking,once it starts no smoke) i drove home and the stalling appears to be gone(i only drive about 15 miles to work). once i got home i shut it down, waited a minute and tried to start, again to have cranking but lots of smoke...i had 4 codes when i scanned them afew minutes ago(i never erased the p1335 or p0175), but i had a p0110 and p0505 along with the other codes. can anybody lead me in the right direction, im pretty stumped here, my mods are the following

00vi
5th gen iavc
5th gen tb
5th gen lower intake manifold
600cc deatswerks injectors
jwt ecu tuned for my injectors,z32 maf,and turbo
z32 maf
holset hx35w
3inch intercooler piping
hks ssqv
ebay wastegate (8psi spring)
custom reverse y-pipe feedpipe
2.5" open downpipe
external dump wastegate
act clutch which has been in for awhile
ngk 1 step cold iridium plugs
walbro 255lph fuel pump
suposed to have an exhaust done tomorrow, but im afraid ill drive it there, and shut it off and it wont start back up to get in the shop!

im a toyota technician and have pretty good diagnostic skills, but i did so many mods at once im not sure what could be going on here, im pretty sure i fixed the stalling(not sure yet) but why wont it start when hot? and why am i seeing so much smoke when it tries to start??

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

what are you doing about base fuel pressure? or is there something in the ecu that pulls fuel at idle or cranking? my initial thought is that it could be fouling out the plugs from being rich. (but you have a lean code?) that could explain all the smoke, and the hard starts when its hot. basically its flooding and saturating the plugs, so when you let it sit for a while it finally cranks up.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

I doubt thats his issue, he has a JWT ECU.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

thats what i thought Flava, this ones really kicking my @$$!! im afraid to drive it cause i dont wanna get stuck, i feel like the 1335 code is from all the extended cranking but i couldnt be sure, i had a spare crank sensor and tried swaping them, no difference....

choray911

iTrader: (1)

From what I've read in the past the JWT computers are a little too symplistic. I've never know of one that works perfectly, not that there aren't success stories out there. The one thing I can of is the BOV. Is it before or after the MAF. If its after the MAF it might be freaking the computer out thinking that the air that was blown off is still there. It causes the motor to flood a little bit and causes some back firing. Also, what is your fuel pressure at? With 600 injectors, you might need to back the pressure down a little. I think I was running around 30 with 570s.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

my maf is after my bov, so that shouldnt be an issue, and as for fuel pressure i really dont think thats a problem either, i sent my injectors to JWT with my ecu for flow testing and the ecu is tuned for them.... i just got a beater pickup truck to drive around(since my max WAS my DD) while i try to figure things out, im wondering if having the IACV not plugged in correctly was causing it. after all that cranking my battery is down to 12.3v which i know is not enough to start her up(thats not while cranking either) the service manual says that my 1335 code COULD be caused by a starting system issue... so im gunna bring my battery to work tomorrow and put it on Toyota's awesome battery charger the GR8(which cleans the plates and fully charges a battery correctly) and go from there...

makes me wish i kept my supercharger, so much easier!!! lol

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

I agree, the JWT ecu tune isnt really perfect. Mine ran a bit lean up top, and of course their timing maps are real conservative but I have yet to see a tune that affected the actual operation of the vehicle.


The IACV could cause issues, also since your using the 5th gen TB, are you also using its TPS? Maybe that could have something to do with it as well.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks?
Do you have a WB? And a FP gauge is not a bad thing to have.

maxam

I also have this problem . I was using NGK power x plugs . I replaced them with OEM plugs . I was using OEM 4th gen maf and I replaced it with another one from the junk yard (from a japanese maxima {cefiro}) .

now it's not stalling but when I turn it of it will never run unitl it become very cold . but if I want to run it I would unplug the maf and start it until it runs . than I replug the maf and drive normaly ^_^ .

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Flava has good points/ideas about the wideband and FP guages as well as vacuum leaks.

I had a very similar problem. I just recently replaced my drive-by-wire TB on my '98 with a pathy. At first it idled fine (a bit on the high side), but still engine braked/coasted and drove great. I adjusted the IACV to get it to idle at a slightly lower rpm and found that the TB stop screw was keeping the TB closed too much for the IACV to adequately compensate on deceleration once the car warmed up. It caused it to stall and sputter even though it idled fine when it was cold. I opened up the TB via the stop screw just a hair and turned down the IACV a bit more and haven't had a single issue since.

As simple as it sounds, try opening up the TB a little bit with the stop screw and fine tune the idle back down with the IACV and see if that helps at all.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

5th gen iacv aren't adjustable....and that may help the stalling(which could've been from the iacv connector not making contact), but it wouldnt make it not start...., i haven't done much diag since the other day....I do have a fp and egt gauge I gotta hook up...I do have a few small vacuum leaks(smoked out my intake with the evap leak testu machine) but I don't think they'd cause a no start....maybe a surging idle BUT I did find that my battery was pretty much junk, Sunday I'm gunna do some more diag.....

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for all the suggestions/help! Much appreciated!!

driver_1985

thanks