97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys!

I'm starting this thread for sharing my next move.
Feel free to shim in. All comments and sugestions are welcome.
I'm planing a built VQ35DE swap in a 99 and a twin rmt
in the same time. Boost level should be at 7psi while daily driving
and I want to be able to crank it to 12psi at the dragway.
Reliability is the #1 motive. I want this engine to last long time.

The twin rmt will come in later in this thread, so does engine
management. Now let's begin with the engine built. I'll have the work
done professionaly in a local engine shop.
Atelier Mécanique Champion in Quebec. (http://atelierchampion.com/)
(sorry, french only. You can use GOOGLE translator!)

EDIT: They are not interested to do the job. They overquoted... $2800 labor only...WTF??
I've called BHP Motors in Laval Quebec. I'm waitting for the quote.

Just for teasing, pics in my living room..,



The parts list:

-02 Maxima VQ35DE Block (96mm bore)(Decked if required)
-Wiseco K605M96 Pistons and rings (96mm 8.8cr)
-Eagle H-Rods and ARP 2000 rod bolts (It's a complete kit I saw on ebay)
-ACL Bearings
-Rev-Up oil pump
-More sturdy girdle bolts (Is there another choice than the stocks?)
-Crank rebalancing
-Stock crankpulley (Deleting A/C)
-02 Maxima stock VQ35de Heads (They flow pretty well)(Planed if required)
-VQ35HR Head gaskets
-VQ35HR Head bolts
-99 VQ30DE Timming covers (Keeping my JWT ECU)
-New timming chain rebuilt kit (From dealer, nissan only...)
-OEM VQ30 water pump
-New VQ30 thermostat and housing (Deleting oil cooler)
-New gasket everywhere
-SSIM, Pathy TB and 3" CAI
-IACV mounted on the VIAS plate
-AEM F/IC 8 (built-in boost controller) and AEM UEGO wideband
-Z32 maf and Mustang #39 injectors
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Return style fuel rail, with adjustable FPR
-PCV vented through an oil catch can to pre-turbo
-EGR delete (No emmision test in Quebec)
-OBX long tube headers
-Test pipe
-SS mandrel bent 2.5" b-pipe with magnaflow resonator

Missing something?

Discussion starts in 3..2..1...

tookrzy4u192

iTrader: (19)

Why not a 3" exhaust? In for finished result! Gl with everything

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Maybe it's twin 2.5"s...

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

I already have the b-pipe. The y-pipe leak real bad, thanks to last summer drag days so I'm going for the headers.
I will keep it to 2.5" single pipe to feed the turbos and then it will finish in a 3" Dynomax VT +4.0L.

viperboy

iTrader: (7)

Just for the record, it would be a BUILT VQ35. And "builted" isn't a word.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Copycat!!!! LOL jk, twin RMT is something iv been planning and daydreaming about for a year or two and have pretty good ideas if you interested. going to school now ill discuss further later.

sparks03max

iTrader: (7)

did you read that he is typing in french and using google translator?

cool build, OP. Keep the updates rolling in.

MaximaSpd85

iTrader: (14)

reading>you but regardless, i thought it was pretty obvious that english isnt the OPs first language.

OP, maybe think of using a different MAF than an a32 one.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

OP You might wanna do a little research on Manley rods, just to make 100% sure they are quality parts, iv read they are made in china. For the same price I suggest buying Eagle H-Beam (usa) rods ($400), and Wiseco ($600). If you cant find it for 600 let me know and ill give show you the vendor that I got it from.

Like mentioned above the A32 maf is not going to be enough, find a Z32 (300xz TT) maf at minimum.

The girdle bolts, the stock ones should be fine to be honest, thats probably the strongest part of the VQ, I put stock DE bolts

Another recommendation, one thing I regret about my build is that I did not put stronger head bolts, although I should not have any problems, if I want to crank up the boost to the 600hp range im going to be worried about head lift. If I were to do it again I would put L19 and still keep the HR gasket (remember to have the coolant passages modified for the HR gasket, very important!!)

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for my frenglish!

Nah! I'm quite good in english. I mean, if you guys want to understand the french website I linked, YOU can use google translator.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that info! There plenty of pistons and rods kit at the same price on ebay. So Manley out of the puzzle. Wiseco pistons are better than CP's? Aren't CP's are made by Carillo? I have not took my final decision about the rods and pistons. I'm still very open minded. I even taught about the VQ30 crank and rods to do the infamous VQ32...

Should'nt be hard to find....

I dont even plan to pass the 400whp mark. I think the HR head studs will be enough. I have 2 R33 Skyline oem turbos at home. Garrett T25 .42ar. They should spool very quickly and have enough flow to give me power a litle bit beyond 6000 rpm. I want some power... indeed, but no lag. Not only I will take this car to drag, but I would like take it to a configurated track like the Mont-Tremblant circuit in Quebec or Mosport in ontario.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Just found this kit... eagle rods and wiseco pistons, 96mm 8.8cr

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Eagle-Rods-Wiseco...item35afc2c8cb

That would be good!?

Also I know that most of you guy's use the E-Manage ultimate.
How do you feel about my choice of going with the AEM F/IC 8?
I like that it retard timming by intercepting crank and cam signal instead
of adding a delay to the coil pack signal. It got 8 injectors drivers.
Something that could be real nice for drag races....
I tought to use the 2 extra ones to triger nitrous and fuel solenoids somewhere
between 4000 and 6000rpm by setting the duty cycle from 0% to 100%.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

About the pistons, there are mixed reviews between CP and Wiseco, I would get which ever is cheaper in my case I found Wiseco's for $600. Definitely go with Eagles though, dont go with the china stuff.

If 400 is your goal then yea HR head bolts are a great idea(dont say stud because they are not, they are bolts).

Do you know how your going do the RMT setup yet?

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Going to correct myself...

I got an idea about it... read your PM's!

LeGaspardVQ

iTrader: (4)

D'accord, D'accord.... C'est bien de voir des set-up comme ca!! Mais definitivement, je conseille les bielles de EAGLE, ainsi que le Mass Air Flow d'une 300zx et non une Max... Continue, mon gars!!!

Ok, Ok, it's nice to see set ups like this!! Definitely also say go for the Eagle rods and the Z32 MAF. Keep it up!!

mightyMax95

iTrader: (5)

OP, I vote for the VQ32. It would be really nice to see one of those built and see what can be done with it. Would save you the cost of rods too, haha.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but I want this engine as reliable as possible. The VQ35 stock rods are a weak point. When compared with the VQ30 rods, they look pretty the same except for the length. Now looking at a forged rod you can see how much stronger they ares. I seriously did tought about the VQ32... there is about half a dozen VQ30 at $200 each in my area. It would have been a great match to my 8000rpm JWT ecu.
But, as I said, reliability is the #1 motive in this built. I'll sent the ecu back to JWT, for remaping and lowering the fuel cut around 7200 rpm.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Hey, merci pour l'encouragement! C'est si rare de lire du français par ici!
Es-tu originaire du Québec?

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Length plays a big role, take a broom stick for example, think of how much harder it is to break with your hands close together, compared to your hands further away. A forged VQ30 rod would be unbreakable lol.

Oh and J'ai etudier francias a l'ecole secondaire pour trois ans... Je suis ne bon pas a parle francias....

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

A high revving 3.2 build would be awesome but would require some head work as well. The stock valvetrain wont be a good idea for high rpm's. Even on the built VQ35 I recommend staying below the stock rev limiter (6500) just to have a very reliable setup, and plus with the additional torque and hp you'll be having early in the RPM range, high rpm's in my opinion are not really needed.

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

hmm intersting !

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

I kinda like the idea of having the rev limiter a bit over what I really need, just to be shure I wont hit fuel cut under boost.

LeGaspardVQ

iTrader: (4)

heehee, ouais, c'est vrai... Je suis originaire de Cote d'Ivoire.

315max

dont know if anybody already said this becuase i skipped down here, don't get h-beam rods. im actually about to build my engine, my dad who build drag racing engines and his own the ran 6.92 in the quarter mile said that i-beam rods are a lot stronger and more reliable. yes run-on sentence for all the proper grammar trolls

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

H-beams will be fine for my power level. I dont want to spend thousands on the rods neither.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, stick with H beam rods. and I agree about what you said regarding fuel cut. Thats why in my emanage I have ignition cut right before the stock rev fuel cut. Although if you hit fuel cut, it shoulnt be an issue because you wont have any combustion = no damage. But if your spraying methanol like I am doing, and you hit fuel cut, that means combustion might still occur due to the methanol which will be extremely lean and BOOM.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

aic96max

iTrader: (12)

hmmmmmm

1.dont want more than 400whp??? then why build a 3.5?? dek on boost will do that??
2.if you do decide you want more juice since it would be a nicely put together engine, 39#s may not be enough, but they are great for the price for what youre stating you want
3.if youre going to drop $$ on the engine, why bother with some crazy rear mount TT kit?? to be different?? i mean the reason they are gaining popularity s bc compared to convential kits they are cheaper, like for vettes, camaros, etc.. arguably as efficient. especially when a single turbo will make more than what you want.
4. jwt would be good for safety since youre not looking for max power though an emu would be better


im going with you want to be unique??

it is going to be interesting build for sure..

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

i-beam rods are cheaper

I just want to make sure this is clear are you planning to run a single 2.5 exhaust and split it in the rear or two exhaust pipes. Cause if you going to run a single the whole setup doesn't make any sense

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

Seem's like a waste of money for just 400hp, just get a dek and upgrade the hg, bolts, springs and revup cams

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

exactly Claude, like we talked about earlier the stock rev limits would keep everything bolted safely together and not stressing interns. I Like the de-k idea though... money-wise, its better. but you know, ill follow your ideas as long as you plan building it.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I agree with everyone, a de or dek with strong headbolts would reliably hold 400 or a lot more.

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

I am going to subscribe to this thread. Very interesting.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

How long a used engine would last, if it pushes 350+ whp daily??
I want to put an engine in my engine bay and forget about it for years.
I even want this engine to follow me in my futur cars... another max or even a 240sx... who knows?
I don't want to experiment how much a VQ can make power before blowing...
With a 3.5 vs a 3.0 I can achieve the same power level with lower boost, meaning more reliability.

Those turbos are small, even a civic could spool them.(remember...T25 0.42ar)

Using 2 of them will give me a great boost response and have just enough flow not to choke up at higer rpms.
Also I dont want them under the hood. It would be so tight fitted, leaving no room for easy maintenance.
That's the reason for the rmt setup. So yes, I'll have the single exhaust splited at the end.
It will be like a single rmt, but with 2 small turbos instead of a bigger one.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

I did'nt find any... the cheaper one I saw, were H-beams.


Quick question...

For the power level I'm aiming, are the 8.8/1cr. pistons necessary? Or I could stick with the stock ones at 10/1cr.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I doesn't make any sense to a single exhaust for a twin setup, you would be better off running a smaller single turbo which will do the samething. Or you two 2inch exhaust pipes to the rear so the exhaust pulses from each bank remain seperated.

Also another option is your worried about heat is to mount the turbo low in the engine bay below the battery or were the a/c compressor would sit

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I've never seen i-beam rods for a vq either, I was just saying in general they are cheaper

imho for your power goals 10/1 CR at 6-8psi and you should be fine if you go with 8.8 than you'll have to run more boost to make the same power but would be able to run more boost than a 10.0 setup

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

if you dont want to find out how reliable a 3.0 would be at that power level, and money is not really an issue. Building would be best. Id recommend going with 8.8:1 or at least 9, you never know if you are going to want more power in the far future (boost is addictive!)

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Boost is addictive, but too much in a fwd car is useless.



The exhaust setup will change. It will be equal length dual 2" pipes. It will be more efficent, simple and probably cheaper than having to splice a single pipe.
For the engine I'm very tempted to keep the stock pistons. It will make the engine built more cost efficent and I'll be able to achieve my power goal without having the turbos work too close to their limits.
The saved money will be keep for quality parts... like a good clutch/flywheel...

Thanks guy's, your help is much appreciated. It helps the project going forward!

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

If you are going to build don't use the stock pistons because of the turbos limits. just but some 9:1 pistons