Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Well I took the car to the dyno today after getting everything installed. I don't have the run files yet; only have 2 print-outs they gave me. First run, the crazy blue line, fuel pressure was a little wacky and my FMU wasn't helping. AFR's were in the 8-9 range or less We dialed back the base pressure from 40 to 30psi and dropped the rise rate several times, which didn't help much at all. Eventually we came to the conclusion that even with the FMU dialed all the way out (giving a 2:1 rise rate), it was still giving waaay too much fuel (i think it was 5-6 pulls till we did this).

We decided to unhook the FMU, and just use the VAFC to add fuel up top, and the thing sang like you wouldn't believe. We raised the base fuel pressure from 30psi to 37-38psi, and sans the FMU, the numbers jumped from mid 200's to low 300's and the AFR's were actually registering .

After some fine tuning with the VAFC, here's the final numbers:
334.98 whp / 316.12 ft.lbs SAE corrected
354.58 whp / 334.62 Uncorrected

I will say, the sheet doesn't show the highest numbers of the day (based on the couple video clips I shot - see below). Our only problem today was the speed limiter. Couldn't make a single full pull in 3rd gear as the speed limiter would cut in around 5.7-5.9k RPM (damn GXE's - don't let the screen name fool you). I'm betting there's another 5-20hp waiting up top (and my last PSI...), each pull was still building power up until the speed limiter fuel cut started... Also, I have a very strange sound in the upper rpms that I can't quite put my finger on (again, see videos below).

Power-train details:
'95 Auto 4.5 gen
13k mile '06 3.5L,
Stillen/Matty V2 Supercharger kit 3.25 (10psi) pulley,
600cc Deatschwerks injectors,
Synapse FPR/FMU,
Walbro 255,
Z32 MAF,
VAFC-2


Dyno Sheets:
*Analog 1 is boost in PSI, and notice smoothing set to "0", very good tune and combination of parts*

SAE Corrected:


Uncorrected:


Dyno Video's:

Highest Torque I videoed, peak boost was 8.43psi...


Highest HP I remember seeing is in this Video (SAE corrected). Not entirely sure why the torque is so much lower on this particular pull. If i had to hazard a guess, I would say belt slip (since there is a "hump" near the speed limiter on the boost line).



Here's the sound I was talking about earlier about :30 in; it's the buzzing/whooshing sound:

I'm not sure if it's an exhaust leak at either the head or connection to the y-pipe, a boost leak, or what. The sound seems to be centralized in the BOV area. The next run we did, we checked the BOV, and it wasn't venting in the upper rpm at all... Anyone have any ideas?

Overall, I'm very pleased. I'm betting if the car were a manual, I would be in the 380ish range (especially if it could actually make a full pull)... Going to the Rock on Saturday (assuming everybody doesn't bail...) so we shall see what she can do out there this weekend.

...I need to figure out the best way to get through first gear on street tires

Streetz???

akurtzer57

iTrader: (4)

Looks good. Glad got it all figured out. Why in the world where you trying to run a fmu with 600cc in the first place? Those 600cc should be good to mid upper 500hp with stock fuel pressure.

MIKERNM1990

Not Bad! think about engine build or 2.87 pulley?

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=38

Do it now, re-dyno the car. Also do the DR mod since you're auto, unless you have the VB mod done already.

Stillen Maxima

iTrader: (50)

Very good numbers.... Time for a 5 speed swap

mista0406

iTrader: (22)

Very nice man glad to see this beastly of a car is running smooth

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Good numbers, glad its running right, btw, yeah you dont need no FMU, toss that in the trash.

Ehhh, get sticky tires lol. I dont have first gear at all, nor second gear. So what I do is I shift early or slightly let off between shifts, but shifting manually through the 'tip tronic' buttons (if u keeping the auto, get a suprastic!).

That noise, hard to tell, but your not detonating or anything are you? Whats your timing like?

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

When you say it wasnt venting in the upper rpms do you mean at partial throttle, above 4k or so its not venting at all?
What BOV are you using?

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Kinda hard to do when it's part of the FPR. Its vacuum source is disconnected, so it's not doing anything now.

I have BFG KDW2's (pretty sticky for a street tire). I'll give the manual shifting a shot, I just don't want it to kick down again if i shift early. I will be getting a suprastick soon. I was going to get one this week, but with the injector debacle, i didn't have the funds for it.

No detonation that I can tell, and the power curve on the dyno sheets are way to smooth to have detonation, but i could be wrong. Timing is stock with 3.0 timing components and cam adapters. There is likely a bit of timing taken out from 4k and up from adding fuel via the VAFC.

No, when the car was being dyno'd, the sound changed from all engine load to the raspy crackling noise around 5krpm. In the room, i thought it sounded like the BOV (Vortech Maxflo) started venting. We did another quick run, and it didn't come from the BOV, but the sound seemed to be coming from that area.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

actually... i was just looking through youtube and came across this:



the sound I'm getting is very similar to what happens in the video at ~17sec in.

edit: Here's another video i found


So maybe i do have a detonation problem I have 1 step colder coppers gapped at .030. maybe I should look into water/meth injection

MIKERNM1990

hmm, you have any plan to do on gain power in the future?

akurtzer57

iTrader: (4)

Ya id go with meth injection or take some timing out in boost.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

The noise sounds like knock and there is a little bit of roughness on the graph near the area I'd expect you to see it (around torque peak, in your case just after torque peak) but I agree that the graph is pretty darn smooth for 0 smoothing overall. if it is detonation it's pretty minor, but it only takes minor detonation to crack ring lands like the VQ has.

meth or water injection would not be a bad idea in any case, and you'd gain power from it too.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Yeah meth/water is something I have been using since my first week of being boosted 3 years ago and has been running ever since. I wouldnt really pay much attention as to how much timing is being retarded by adding fuel through the SAFC, since it really isnt going to retard much, maybe .# degree (you have to make BIG adjustment to actually alter timing more).

Take out your sparkplugs and see how they look, at least the front 3. You see any melting or black/silver speks on them, its a sign of detonation. It kinda sounds like it, did you hear it from inside the car like if it was coming through the filrewall (like marbles hitting really fast type sound?). Id recommend to stay out of WOT till you get meth or try to figure out something, perhaps running on the rich side (low 11's high 10s), I notice your AFR gets leaner as it gets close to redline, which is where it seems to be causing the noise/knock.

side note: Based on my discovery on both banks with our FWD 3.5 running different AFR's, I recommend even more to tune for a richer AFR, there are some areas (SPECIALLY after 5500rpm) that the front bank runs leaner even by a full AFR point (11.8 vs. 12.8 for example). The front bank's AFR is much more linear and goes up as the rear (firewall side) bank peaks and starts dropping as RPMs go up. This is with a stock manifold and VIAS delete.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, it does have me slightly worried. I rung out second gear last night (it was really cold outside) and it didn't do it then.

The sound is like what you describe (the marble thing). I'm going to add some more fuel by upping the base fuel pressure 5psi and add some more fuel from about 5200rpm on (increasing towards redline). Part of the lean condition in the dyno graph is coming from the speed limiter kicking in (which seems to start making a major difference in AFR around 115mph (5700rpm). I'm going to check the spark plugs here in a few minutes, since I need to pull the SC'er off and re-seal it - the big o-ring didn't seal properly when I put it back together after replacing the input shaft seal, and it is leaking under high oil pressure situations.

I'm using the same IM setup. I'm using a 2002 fuel rail (since my FPR is rail mounted), so I don't know if there is a difference or not to your setup. I kind of want to get a fuel damper from an '02 and use it instead of the "off fitting" I'm using now. Regardless, going to try and get my afr in the 10-10.5ish range down from the 11-11.5 range, and I think by adding some pressure and making some corrections on the VAFC that should be pretty easy.

aic96max

iTrader: (12)

meth kit should be your next mod asap....i had oem timing with a meth kit ( i ran 100%) and it kept the knock out which usuallystarted around the 320 whp mark , its a great engine saving tool. especially without any timing control

93altima

iTrader: (5)

vey nice numbers maybe ill dyno soon!!!

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

Nice power !