dynod the frontyard boostkit
12-10-2009, 02:26 PM
#82
well, i retract that last statement. I got everything out, i have 4chunks of metal in my oil pan and 1 piece on the gurdel, no idea where that pieces are coming from..it has a hash design on all the pieces so might have came from the heads 
.. the motor ran fine though minus cyl # 3 misfire. so i rather not chance it, just gonna get another 3.0 until the 3.5 is built. gay
.. the motor ran fine though minus cyl # 3 misfire. so i rather not chance it, just gonna get another 3.0 until the 3.5 is built. gay
"Hash" design sounds more like the piston. Rotate each piston toward the crank (bdc) & see if the connecting rod & skirts are still intact.If it were from the heads you would of bent a valve
12-10-2009, 02:41 PM
#83
well, i think your right accordingtou.. they all have a slight bend to them. the outer, longer side is smooth and some have like a black paint or tint to them. the inner side of those pieces have a has design. anyone have a picture of the stock piston
12-10-2009, 02:43 PM
#84
See if anything looks like this(from my broken 3.5):
12-10-2009, 03:26 PM
#86
12-10-2009, 05:48 PM
#87
12-10-2009, 05:53 PM
#88
12-10-2009, 05:56 PM
#89
12-10-2009, 06:12 PM
#90
keep rebuild whatever breaks in it until i can afford a par 3rd and possibly 4th.lol
i dont plan to drag too much until next season unless necessary or alot of money is on the line to fix it if i break it.. i usually do roll racing.
i dont plan to drag too much until next season unless necessary or alot of money is on the line to fix it if i break it.. i usually do roll racing.
12-10-2009, 07:13 PM
#91
You could do a 6 speed swap!
12-10-2009, 08:41 PM
#92
12-11-2009, 10:15 AM
#96
12-11-2009, 01:27 PM
#97
12-11-2009, 03:06 PM
#98
12-11-2009, 06:24 PM
#99
hmmmmm u got a point there, but this vadim dude sounds nice, i think imma come out to the east coast and have him build me a motor so i can be the fastest motor out here, especially wid all this cold air, i could even have him make me a cold air intake
Last edited by LONERANGERSR20; 12-11-2009 at 06:28 PM.
12-11-2009, 06:59 PM
#100
12-12-2009, 04:31 AM
#101
Aaron, if you build a 3.5,make sure its done right, and i would not stop at 6262, billet or not, spending that kind of money on a snail, id make sure im covered for good. id go a but bigger something that will go into the 700s, and a 100 shot to get it going. but i was hesitant to put down such power due to these trannies. no fun when you break ****
12-13-2009, 04:27 PM
#106
12-14-2009, 07:22 AM
#107
It was daily driven. Motor had ARP rod/head/main studs, custom cometic HG, revup cams custom timed, SSIM ported upper and lower, PF TB, PF IACV, etc etc...
Just no pistons and rods, car was driven and raced DAILY.
12-14-2009, 07:25 AM
#108
I ran 415whp for 10k miles on a stock 3.5 before I crashed it. LOL at that ain't ****.
I crashed the car with the motor in it, and built a new one becuase a 2x4 went through the front valve cover and knocked the cams out of whack.
12-14-2009, 09:31 AM
#109
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A stock bottom end 3.5 being beat on daily and lasting 10k miles at over 400whp is pretty great, though. Plus like you said you crashed it, it didn't blow, it may have lasted a lot longer.
12-14-2009, 10:37 AM
#110
Yeah the way you worded it seemed like everyone should have been impressed a built motor only last 10k miles when a stock 3.5 can do that. Now saying it had a stock bottem end and went bad cause you crashed is different.
12-14-2009, 11:37 AM
#111
The reason people were saying it "ain't ****" is because you said it was built. In most cases when you call an engine built, you're referring to a bottom end build. If it was a built bottom end, that wouldn't be impressive.
A stock bottom end 3.5 being beat on daily and lasting 10k miles at over 400whp is pretty great, though. Plus like you said you crashed it, it didn't blow, it may have lasted a lot longer.
A stock bottom end 3.5 being beat on daily and lasting 10k miles at over 400whp is pretty great, though. Plus like you said you crashed it, it didn't blow, it may have lasted a lot longer.
Actually I said "Vadim built my engine", as in assembled it. I guess poor choice of words.
12-26-2009, 07:19 AM
#113
yep, back up and running as of weds. got new plugs, rolled all the piping, got the afrs around 12.0-12.5 cruising, and about 10.7-11.8 WOT and boosting to about 9-10psi.. i dont go WOT though, waiting to get a tune so i dont blow anything.. Should i retard my timing 2* or ill be ok for now?
12-26-2009, 08:26 AM
#114
Im not sure what monitoring tuning device you have. but I wwould start off with colder plugs cut & side gapped (grey99max style) & go from there.
Also not sure wht size injectors you are running but you could lower base fuel pressure & add fuel via an apexi controller until 2* are pulled
Also not sure wht size injectors you are running but you could lower base fuel pressure & add fuel via an apexi controller until 2* are pulled
12-26-2009, 09:03 AM
#115
yep, back up and running as of weds. got new plugs, rolled all the piping, got the afrs around 12.0-12.5 cruising, and about 10.7-11.8 WOT and boosting to about 9-10psi.. i dont go WOT though, waiting to get a tune so i dont blow anything.. Should i retard my timing 2* or ill be ok for now?
12-26-2009, 12:05 PM
#116
All depends on what turbo you have. If its one like Alvaro's old turbo which put out 9psi and gave him basically 400whp. then yes you have to retard timing or add meth. But if the turbo is not THAT efficient on such low boost then I would start retarding after 9-10. with a t04b I was running timing at around 16degree's (max) no meth and 15psi. This all depends on if your knocking or not. You also got much cooler weather too, so things differ compared to Miami.
bkr6e's gapped to .030~.032
vafc2
innovate lc1 WBo2
rc440's
12-26-2009, 04:55 PM
#117
12-26-2009, 08:29 PM
#119
.......lmaoin this cold weather, the car should make more power! so i would keep boost at 8 psi, as i would expect some detonation at after 350 whp which you should easily be at at that psi. And if you are getting 2 psi of boost creep, then put it down to 7 to compensate and definitely do 4th grear pulls on the dyno. it doesnt load the car like the street does.not sure how you would know exactly how much timing the safc is pulling???? id love to know..anyone?? Hopefully i can roll by monday to check out the whip.. I cant belive that clutch is holding, freaking awesome,,my stocker slipped at about 4-5 psi..but that was an autozone clutch set
Good ****, keep up the good work, holla at me when you go Dyno
12-26-2009, 09:24 PM
#120
No dyno no Care! stop claiming unconfirmed numbers...sorry man , had to say it .......lmao
in this cold weather, the car should make more power! so i would keep boost at 8 psi, as i would expect some detonation at after 350 whp which you should easily be at at that psi. And if you are getting 2 psi of boost creep, then put it down to 7 to compensate and definitely do 4th grear pulls on the dyno. it doesnt load the car like the street does.not sure how you would know exactly how much timing the safc is pulling???? id love to know..anyone?? Hopefully i can roll by monday to check out the whip.. I cant belive that clutch is holding, freaking awesome,,my stocker slipped at about 4-5 psi..but that was an autozone clutch set
Good ****, keep up the good work, holla at me when you go Dyno
.......lmaoin this cold weather, the car should make more power! so i would keep boost at 8 psi, as i would expect some detonation at after 350 whp which you should easily be at at that psi. And if you are getting 2 psi of boost creep, then put it down to 7 to compensate and definitely do 4th grear pulls on the dyno. it doesnt load the car like the street does.not sure how you would know exactly how much timing the safc is pulling???? id love to know..anyone?? Hopefully i can roll by monday to check out the whip.. I cant belive that clutch is holding, freaking awesome,,my stocker slipped at about 4-5 psi..but that was an autozone clutch set
Good ****, keep up the good work, holla at me when you go Dyno