Supercharged/TurbochargedThe increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.
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Sup guys, so I have been using Comp Cam Break-in Oil, as suggested by the builder that did the machine work on my block (old school dude that does lot of work on VG builds, etc..), he suggested that I should add the additive with every oil change even after the break in period for added protection.
Now, I am basically using the additive, which has a good amount of zinc (which we know nowdays most oils lack such ingredient due to regulations, etc..), I am also using Castrol GTX 10w40, since I was also suggested not to use synthetic till after about 3k miles.
Am I waisting my money by using zinc additive every oil change, or is it a good idea considering it offers extreme protection agaisnt meta/metal contact?
Sup guys, so I have been using Comp Cam Break-in Oil, as suggested by the builder that did the machine work on my block (old school dude that does lot of work on VG builds, etc..), he suggested that I should add the additive with every oil change even after the break in period for added protection.
Now, I am basically using the additive, which has a good amount of zinc (which we know nowdays most oils lack such ingredient due to regulations, etc..), I am also using Castrol GTX 10w40, since I was also suggested not to use synthetic till after about 3k miles.
Am I waisting my money by using zinc additive every oil change, or is it a good idea considering it offers extreme protection agaisnt meta/metal contact?
Yes - you need the additives or a break-in oil - like Royal Purple break-in non-synthetic oil, until break-in is finished. But - Mobil1 EP synthetic has the older formulation of oil with all the original additives. That should do you.
If you're still twitchy about your engine, then pour a few ounces of Lucas additive in with your oil every change. Make that change Mobil1 EP 0W-40W. IMHO.... That's exactly what I'm doing for the new engine, anyway.
OH, and I'm buying an EU next week - thanks for the push.
Diesel oil already has zinc and all the other heavy elements that are removed for emissions purposes from auto oil, still it. And it's cheap cheap cheap. You can get Rotella T Synthetic at autozone for $19.99 a gallon. Synthetic diesel oil, in many engine builder's opinions there is no better protection available at a reasonable cost. That's what I've been running ever since I did my research on it.
__________________ 95 SE - Stock 3.0L w/ USIM - T61/P-trim @ 14.5psi - 93 octane
11.76 @ 121 - 1.82 60' - ET Street DOTs
12.15 @ 123 - 1.95 60' - Nitto DR 3.5L swap with I/Y/E
12.92 @ 104 - 1.69 60' - M&H Slicks
13.60 @ 103 - 2.15 60' - Street tires
Diesel oil already has zinc and all the other heavy elements that are removed for emissions purposes from auto oil, still it. And it's cheap cheap cheap. You can get Rotella T Synthetic at autozone for $19.99 a gallon. Synthetic diesel oil, in many engine builder's opinions there is no better protection available at a reasonable cost. That's what I've been running ever since I did my research on it.
I think you've mentioned this before. Are there any negative things about using this at high RPMs (8K) ? What oil change intervals do you use? The name seems familiar, so I think I've seen it on shelves locally. Does it come in automotive racing weights, or does that matter? The additives are a real bonus - did you find a list of them somewhere?
EDIT: I found that Mobil1 also makes one type of synthetic oils for Turbo diesel trucks 5W-40 :
All my turbo buddies use it including my honda buddies who are revving their motors to 8500+. Turbo Honda guys are where I first started reading about it.
__________________ 95 SE - Stock 3.0L w/ USIM - T61/P-trim @ 14.5psi - 93 octane
11.76 @ 121 - 1.82 60' - ET Street DOTs
12.15 @ 123 - 1.95 60' - Nitto DR 3.5L swap with I/Y/E
12.92 @ 104 - 1.69 60' - M&H Slicks
13.60 @ 103 - 2.15 60' - Street tires
This is really interesting, just a bit paranoid in using diesel oil on a gasoline car, but im usually iffy about things like this at first lol. I should give it a try, sh!t I already got a diesel turbo lol, mineswell go all out.
If you want 40 wt, it should be good to go. If you are referring to how it actually measures out. (ie.. some measure out to be more like a 30 vs 40), then I don't know.
I'd be much more willing to try it if it actually measures out to be less viscous side of a 40 wt