Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I believe streetz used to have blowby but he hooked the turbo timer up to the pump so it ran after the car is off and he stopped having any problems. I plan to do the same. I believe his setup is identical as well(minus the charge piping)

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Well yea...thats a MUST...i have mine running for 1.5 minutes after i shut off the car...and you gota make sure that you JUST power the Sump pump...its not going to be functioning like a normal turbo timer...the motor dies and the PUMP is the only thing that stays on...

Maxboost made this mistake and made a pretty big mess lol

Im talking about the oil lines in and out of the turbo

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, streetz has his running to the oil cap, I do not know if that is too high or not, he has yet to have problems. If I do I will run mine down the bottom to the oil pan like you.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

I am running a big hayden oil cooler off my oil filter block adaptor thing and that also drains to a front tap on the upper oil pan...drill tap and die...only anoying part it taking the upper oil pan off...altho most have done it without having to do this...i had to take mine off anyways to fix a leak...so i did it anyways...overall i think thats the best way to do it...better than fighting gravity lol..

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Not sure what you mean Xerox, are you asking if blowby from crankcase is an issue with the oil return being on the top (at oil cap)? if thats your question, nope its not an issue at all, remember the scavenge pump we're using (I think you as well), is meant to pump upto like 150psi so trust me that thing is not going to back up because the engine has a little bit of blowby, ofcourse you need to have a properly vented crankcase, for example having both valve covers open to atmosphere.

As for gravity and the oil return, the same applies, these pumps are strong and are meant for putting out liquid at higher pressure, I woudlnt be surprised if the highest pressure it sees on the return line (to the engine) gets no higher than like 5psi (at real high rpm where oil supply to turbo is highest), so this means it dosnt matter where the line is going, even if it was going to the roof the car, its going to get there with the same volume and speed as if it was horizontal. Although i do like the idea of returning it to the upper oil pan (just to not have another line under the hood, i got wires and hoses all over the place lol), but as far as function, oil cap is perfect. I gotta drop my upper pan next oil change, so I might put in an oil cooler and return it into the upper pan as well.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Yea I just noticed im using a way bigger oil return hose ¾ ” ! compared to what I c in the pics of the kit kevlo purchased. I doubt this makes a difference, and im getting side tracked…

What I am saying is this:
On a conventional setup you want to make sure that the oil inlet is at the VERY top, and the oulet on the very BOTTOM. This is mostly due to the fact there is no sump pump, bla bla…

However I noticed two things on the pics for the kit blkmax was using…
1)Turbo looked to have some slight oil sweating
2) Oil lines “looked” like they had inlet and outlets on the turbo from side to side, rather than top to bottom.

Leading me back to my original question, no blowbi with it like this? I understand the pump should do a good job, but it has to have some kind of limitation as far as SUCKING oil out rather than pushing it….

Leading back to when I was re-designing my kit, I remember you telling me oil lines have to be top to bottom (as straight as you can get them)…and I thought this was always a good rule of thumb with any setup…but if I can put mine at a slight more of an angle, I could increase some ground clearance! But I don’t want to sacrifice my 100% dry charge piping…

BTW, not trying to highjack your thread kevlo I just got kinda confused with the setup…

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

What do you guys think of this method of venting:

I plan on getting an Injen style intake so the intake setup will be similar to stock. I know you do NOT want the crankcase pressurized. So I plan on using this in between the mid-pipe:
http://cjsupra.kendra.com/PCV-Can.html
It also has a good filter on it compared to the crank we have to get at the local autopart stores so that is a plus.

And I plan on using one of the homedepot catch cans on the PCV line to the manifold. But I am sure there is a BETTER PCV valve that we can use.

How does that look? Will that be adequate ventilation for the crank case? Also now I know some of you don't use the IACV but I plan to, is there something I need to put on the line so the iacv doesn't see boost? or will it be fine since the iacv is off after 3-4k rpms?

Thanks and let me know what you guys think

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

I am running my IACV right off the mid-pipe with no problems…

As for PCV, im using OEM and I believe its going to the midpipe as well…front just has a KN filter on it…so far so good….i did get a new PCV when I did my install if I remember correctly…its been like that for over a year…

mtrai760

iTrader: (19)

I had no problems running boost to the IACV.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

So on my crankcase breather oil separator I plan to get(the one on the supra link), It is fine running it back to the mid pipe correct?

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

So I decided to look at the VQ30det ventilation and it is basically the same as us.

That is the PCV hose going from the valve cover to the IM.


That is the VQ30DETT that was put in the skylines in one of the Japanese racing circuits, it connects the two valve covers just like us.


So now that leaves me with the question, on the DET/DETT was the crankcase connected to the midpipe(their charge pipe right before the TB) or was it connected to before boost?

I know I am prob making this more complicated that I should but I just wanna get things right

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Looks like the charge pipe has a large hose on it, could be the IACV or it could be connected to the valve cover.

So I will use a oil separator with a filter on top from the midpipe to the front valve cover.





I know I just made this super complicated for no reason but I am kinda bored and needed some stuff to do.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Megan...Q5fAccessories

So far I found two reviews on the org on that AFPR, they are good reviews. One guy had it over a year w/o any problems. This one also comes with a gauge so that is a plus.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

wow thats pretty good...probably around the same amount of money i paid...maybe a bit less...i couldnt find my reciepts for the one i have...

I will be doing my KA swap on my 510 sometime during these couple months...ill probably join the bandwagon on that AFPR...super good deal!!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Oh i see what you were saying Xerox, and you are correct on what I had told you, you dont want to have the inlet and outlet too horizontal because it wont drain into the return (from turbo to pump) as well. I thought u were talking about the return as in the line going to the engine. but i get you, For kevlo, i suggest you clock your turbo so that the turbos oil outlet is pointing down, What I then did was get a 90degree elbow so that the hose dosnt have to go down towards the floor and hit things.

For the crank case, man just vent them valve covers to atmosphere and save all the head ache!! lol. thats what I did. I didnt wanna deal with leaky pcv valve while in boost, or catch can still letting oil go into the manifold.

but if you wanna use it anyways, first thing, You cant run the front valve cover line into the charge pipe, unless you run a hose to the back of the car and put a barb on the intake side of the turbo, otherwise if you put a hose from charge pipe to the valve cover when you go into boost your going to be pushing all that boosted air into the covers. So thats why people just put a filter on the valve cover so while in Vacum fresh air is going in through there and making its way to the pcv then into the manifold along with blowby from the crankcase.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yeah I will prob just end up putting a good brand breather filter on the crankcase and put a oil separator on the PCV valve line.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

C, that’s why I was bringing it up  I swear I wasn’t high jacking hehe. I noticed the oil on the turbo and im pretty sure you will be getting SOME kind of blobi with it at such an angle *shake finger at BLKMX* …then again maybe not? I would love to be able to get away with it at that kind of an angle!

I ended up actually getting a brass elbow for pipe pluming…like for a garden hose or something…I figured I wanted something SOFT that would give way before it started damaging the turbo IF I were to hit it on something (never has even came close! And its pretty out there… that and I wanted something big enough to not be restrictive…I THINK the outlet from the turbo is ½ inch on mine…and so was the fitting…its all pretty big hoses coming out of the turbo, then it reduces to 3/4 inch all the way back..

I have been debating doing this to avoid a possible boost leak…not like we already don’t have enough piping to worry about leaks with!!! haha

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

haha true, actually I also used a bass fitting as well, and mine is 1/2" SS that goes from turbo to pump, then 3/8th from pump to engine.

Now that we bring up the angle of the inlet/outlet of turbo, I THINK that might be a possible reason of why eddy(95blkmax) had alot of smoke and considered his turbo "blown". I tried thinking about it, on how he could have blown that turbo if its the same setup as mine, same pump, everything, and his angle on the inlet/outlet on the turbo is pretty horizontal (no good), so thats probably why it smoked alot.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

There was definitly a problem with the scavange return setup, I spent awhile cleaning that turbo out (and still wasn't super happy with it in the end) yet there was no reason for all of that oil- the seals, bearings, and thrust plate were all near perfect., but at least now it's all brand new with genuine holset parts.

The only other thing to be mindful of is that someone else had that compressor housing off before, as it was missing the large o-ring to seal in boost. Silly me thought someone just forgot it, when I went to reassemble with the new one that came in the kit I found out why the last one was missing when it came time to install that gigantic 5" c-clip, what a ****ing nightmare that thing was, I never knew a c-clip could be such a pita, bolt-on compressor housing's ftw. It should hold though, but I would keep an eye on it and spray it down when you finally get to the stage that you do your boost-leak test.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

I will def make sure that the turbo is clocked so that the oil drains down(with gravity)

So KRRZ, you rebuilt the turbo I am getting? I will def pay attn to it when I do a boost-leak test.
Question: How did you clean the turbo, incase I do not use the one you rebuilt, I still have the one I have which I would love to clean up.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Do you guys have pics of your turbo setup? I would like to see how the filter fits and all. Also I would like to see how yours is clocked.

If you could snap a quick picture of it, that would be awesome

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I sent you enough son!! lol

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Yeah those were after the post!

AHhhhh the BOV is still a hard choice! Still trying to find the right one, now I am thinking I do not want one off ebay, need something that is reliable.

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Like i said im waiting to borrow a camera to take pics...im in the process if puutting in the bigger turbo, so im gona be under there finishing it tonight...ill take some pics, ive been needing to show Streetz as well...

might give future folks different ideas as i did mine pretty different in regards to piping...

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Considered the Tial?
Back when I was still using one it flowed quite well, it was just too loud for me with the SCer always venting.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Start by breaking it all down, and pay attention to the compressor nut, Holsets are reverse threaded. Then I carefully stacked everything in a 5-gallon bucket and used an entire can of that new super foamy engine degreaser that gunk has. The foam covered everything, once it settled I added water and let it sit for a little longer (Like 20 minutes max). After that I hosed each part off 1x1 carefully, then dried with compressed air. After that I sprayed everything with oil except for the exhaust housing & wheel, which saw about 3 cans of brakecleaner and a brush and some parts you can use a fine sandpaper or 3m scuff pad. But yeah, basically just LOTS of brakecleaner, and make sure to never let any steel parts sit for more than a few minutes without drying & then oiling them.

AceofSpds

iTrader: (4)

I would NOT get the Megan AFPR ive read bad things about it on the S chassis forums. Seems it doesn't last longer than a month. Can't go wrong w/ an authentic sard or aeromotive.

As far as the bov goes i would just try to get one used that comes w/ a flange. It seems the fake ssqv's arent too bad. I wouldn't put one on my car simply b/c i whole heartedly hate blatant phony parts.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Thanks, I will look into that.

urmab

iTrader: (7)

My friend have megan afrp on his honda he had it for a while (over a year), no problems yet. As far as BOV's most of the fake once will hold low pressure they typicaly begin to fail around 20+ psi

95BLKMAX

iTrader: (10)

oh snap! congrats kevlo! I dont log on here often anymore but you can hit me up on AIM any time or through streetz get my contact info if u dont use AIM. In case you have any questions as to how the parts were mounted on my car and what not.

Enjoy boost!

and dont bother with the 320-330cc caca injectors, just get the right stuff from the start. 440s and a walbro 255. Do it from now lol

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

if I get 440's ill be TOOO tempted to run 10psi which my clutch cannot handle

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

BTW i posted up pics of the way everything is kinda ran for my turbo piping...check my photo gallery...sorry for the lag! better late than never tho eh

Check out the pics of the 510 thats been taking up all my time....posted up toooo!

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Also, whats up with the oil restrictor? I am running .040...any reason why your going bigger?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I am still in the process of determining what is the best restrictor. Today iv spent the day testing things out and changing my turbos. I put a oil pressure sending unit after the restrictor, and it measured the same oil pressure as the engine (exactly no change), my theory is that the checkvalve thats right at the turbo is holding back flow making the pressure stay up, so what im going to do tomorrow is put the sending unit, AFTER both the checkvalve and the restrictor, to see how much pressure is showing right at the turbo, this should finally tell me what restrictor to go with (I hope).

XeroX

iTrader: (13)

Def. keep us posted

So your testing .052 and .040? Any other sizes?

dfownz

iTrader: (5)

Kevlo if you're looking for an afpr I have an Aeromotive 13301 that just needs a new diaphram. I replaced the unit with a new one about 2 years ago and have had no problems.

Let me know I can sell it for like 80 bucks.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I got, .044, .052, and .098.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

BTW Kev, I got some parts you might be interested in, well not my parts but buddy of mine parting out his turbo stuff, so he got 440's available.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

ok some update ya'll!!!
I dont wanna be double posting, so i'll just link to my thread for my results with this oil deal.

http://forums.maxima.org/7125204-post26.html

cliff notes: check valve with no restrictor seems to be the way to go, further observation is needed (after today)

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Cool, I will let you know soon. I see that the rebuild kits are 25.