doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I want to finish the assembly of engine asap, so I can put it back in the car and wire everything together and start it before I get too old. Lol ( been working on the car for 3 years now )

Today I ordered few parts that I was missing, new starter, new alternator and couple of other parts. Now for the essential, dont forget that my build DEK engine will get a V2 T trim shortly after, ( I want to start my engine N/A and put the s/c after ) I need to get new injector, I'm thinking of Deatshwerk wich I believe are direct fit on the DEK fuel rail. Let say I get 550 what else do I need beside that ? Would a Nismo Universal FPR would be right. I'll get a EU but is it possible to start the engine without the EU at first ? I need a bit of direction here as I'm pretty much alone for that aspect and this is an aspect that I dont know very much.

Thanks a bunch for any help.


AA

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

I think your car should start but most likely run pretty rich... (on stock MAF), if you are using a Z32 MAF, the difference in size will help lean out the mixture. Like you say, you could use an FPR to lower the FP but what you really need is either a Z32 MAF (if you don't already have one) or some thing to tune with. GL

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

More important than breaking it in without the blower is breaking it in with the stock fuel set-up. You don't want to be ****ing around with injectors & EU on a fresh build, it's a rather common occurence for people to toast there motors because of raw fuel washing the walls. The slightest glitch while trying to set everything up could **** you if you haven't given the rings time to set in.

Glad to hear she is coming togethor.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

So the Z32 MAF will work on my 2k1 ? I was under the Impression the Z32 MAF only worked with 4th gen, my bad you see why I need help for that aspect.

Installing EU is going to be a PITA, so starting the engine first without it seem a good way to limit the number of issues I'll have to deal with at first. In that case would it be better/simpler to use a Vortech FMU with the specific disk ?, excuse my ignorance it's the first time that I'll ever deal with that aspect, but looking at the NIsmo Universal FPR I dont see any way to control the pressure so my best guess is I need either some sort of electronic to control it or do I have to use a Vortech FMU. Can you guys tell me if that set-up would be best to start & stabilize the engine ?

Let get this strait, I need a Z32 MAF, bigger injector like the 550, a FPR like the Nismo Universal FPR along with a Vortech FMU ( what would be the right disk to use N/A )
Then when the engine is running will I have to get rid of the Vortech FMU ( I'm under the impression that the EU will control the FPR but I cant seem to figure out how it will )

Thanks for helping I think I'm getting close to better undersand the fuel aspect now.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

Like what KRRZ350 said, you should start with the stock motor first. I remember when I had did my 3.5 build, I try to start with some 600cc and the crap barely ran if at all but when I switch back to stockers, I was able to verify that there was no mechanical problems before I went and install my EU and bigger injectors.

It's been so long I don't quite remember if a Z32 MAF would work for a 5th gen so I can't help you there. I thought you were a 4th but I should have seen on your sig.

Go back to stock injectors for now so you don't have to buy any additional parts you don't need down the road (ie FMU). An adjustable FPR is nice, I think the NISMO is over priced and you can find something just as nice for cheaper.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok I see, I was trying to save myself some additional work since the engine is on the engine stand at this point, so it is very easy to work on the engine. Putting everything back to stock > installing the engine > starting it, once it's done then remove the UIM and all the crap around along with the injectors, the FPR and such is just making me work in double and is much less accessible compare when working on the engine stand.

I guess if there is no other way around I wont have the choice then. But if possible I might be better to install the 550's, use the Nismo FPR and a Vortech FMU and wire the car with EU but I still need to know if that's the right way to do it. I understand the issues with dumping too much fuel in the engine but there must be a way to control the amount of fuel that goes in the engine from the beginning. Dont get me wrong if the best way is to go stock just to start the engine and make sure it run smoothly, I guess I wont have much other choice, but I'd like to be sure since my stock injector are dirty, they have been standing on the garage counter for over a year now and are full o dust so they will need to be clean some how.

essential1

iTrader: (5)

Just to clear up the Z32 MAF part of this discussion...

The reason for 4th gens to use the Z32 MAF is because their sensor is built into the housing and cant be seperated unless you literaly cut it out.

Since you have a 5th gen, the actual MAF sensor part is only held down by 2 torx head screws. (possibly tamper proof) Meaning, you can remove just the sensor from your factory housing and make a larger housing and drop the sensor back in. No need for cutting, splicing, or moving pins on a harness.

Let me know if you need pics for visual reference.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok got it now. I bought the 3" MAF adaptor for the GD but I think it's going to take quite sometime before I get it since they need 25 buyers before they start production, I paid 100$ like over a month ago. I can pretty much fabricate this stuff since I have 3" piping.

I still need clarification for the fuel set-up as no one really answered my questions yet I want to make absolutely sure I set-up all this correctly and buy the right stuff asap.

Any more feed back for the questions below would be greatly appreciate, otherwise it's going to be the guess works and at this point I really want to avoid this.

Thanks for the precision.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

As stated before, your better off going with stock injectors for now untill the motor is broken in.
Even with the EU in place, starting the motor is going to flood the motor, I know it did with mine. I had a real hard time getting mine running. It took a while and a lot of playing with the Emanage before I could keep it running.
L

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Yesterday I started to assemble the stock fuel components, gee there is a bunch of bolts that I cant seem to sort out so I send a list to to Dave B, hopefully he will be able to ship either today or tomorrow by priority. I will follow the few advices I got from you guys and put everything back to stock. I will start the engine as soon as I can. I was also reading that I need to put petroleum oil to break in the engine but once it is done then I'll switch to synthetic oil. I also bought the JB weld so I can fix the cup in my VIAS.


Said so I still need to order the part I need for my soon to be S/C set-up. In that aspect can anyone confirm me if my thinking is good ie:

1-) Nismo FPR or which other one is known to work well ?

2-) Vortech FMU ( will this control the FPR seeing there is no control on the FPR ? )

3-) Deatschwerk 550 injector or maybe 600 ( I'm shooting for 400HP to the wheel )

4-) Vortech V2 T trim with 2.87 and 2.6 pulley

5-) Emanage Ultimate & SouthFlMaxTech patch harness

6-) All the fitting, oil hoses, vacuum etc.

7-) I have decided to order a new lower oil pan and weld 2 fitting for the S/C oil
feed and return.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Any AFPR will work, but not absolutely need.
You dont need the FMU if your going to be running a Emanage Ultimate and the 550's should be fine.
Also,are you upgrading the fuel pump?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for asking, I had totally forgot to mention that aspect. I have the Wallbro fuel pump, I dont remember the model but its the one for the 5th gen, I just need to install it.

I guess I will have to install it only when I upgrade the injectors right ? or should I install it right now ?

Thanks I appreciate.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

I pretty much understand the fuel set-up now, as I said I'm going to finish assembling N/A, plug the EU and once the engine is broke in I'll go ahead with the S/C install. I had a question concerning the oil feed and return for the S/C set-up, matt was telling me to tap into the pressurized switch in the bottom of the oil pan, does anyone have a pics of the exact location.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Yesterday I installed the S/C bracket that was part of Matty's V1 kit. The bracket lined up pretty well, there was one screw missing but I should find one locally. I was wondering how am I supposed to bolt the alternator to the bracket since I doesn't line-up with the hole, the alt. cant go further because it bump into the modified thermostat housing. I figured 3 ways to fix this but I'd like to know how do you guys fixed this:

1-) Shave the alternator housing where the bolts is so it line-up properly, but in that case the surround area of the bolt will be much weaker since a good amount of material need to be shaved, definitely not my preferred solution.

2-) Modified the thermostat housing, hammer it so it leave room for the alt. again not
my preferred solution since it will reduce the flow of the coolant and specially on a boosted engine not really a good thing.

3-) Fabricate a custom bracket that attached to the alt and V1 bracket, this will obviously affect the length of the belt, and I may get a ride for my money finding the right belt.

4-) Fabricate a custom thermostat housing so it leave enough room for the alt.
I though the modified thermostat housing would fix this but it's not so I'm still trying
to figure out why it was ship with the kit.

I'm not bashing or anything just relating simple fact so I can fix this the best way possible.

Thanks for your input.

AA

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Option 1. This is how Stillen designed it. Matty just copied it.

Read the bottom of page 74, this is normal for the V1 bracket users.

http://www.vqpower.com/images/howto/...rger/scifd.pdf

You can install the Walbro right now w/o any issues/concerns.

As for the rest, I'd drop the engine in bone stock and getting everything up and running first, then modify as planned. Double the work I know, but hassle free overall. Pulling the IM only takes 1 hour to get to the injectors....

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

1. That will work well. Just a FYI, you don't even need a FPR really.

2. No need once the properly sized injectors are installed.

3. 550's should be fine, but I'd call DW to make sure. I'm running DW 550's myself.

4. If you're trying to bust 400hp, you'll need the smallest pulley you can get. Keep in mind though that you'll be overspinning the crap out of the blower though with the 2.62 pulley... Also, how high to you plan to rev??

5. Good. No need for harness, but I can appreciate why you would want it.

6. Good.

7. Are you unable to source the parts you need to replicate Stillen's design for both the oil feed and return?

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Ok thanks for the advise, so shaving the Alt, is the way Stillen did it. I downloaded the manual and started the reading yesterday but I was not quite at that page yet.

I will hopefully drop the engine next saturday if my parts can get here before the week-end, if not that will have wait until next week-end.

Thanks for the input.


AA

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Technically speaking my DEK should be good to 8000 rpm ( blue print and fully balanced )
but I think I'll set the cut off at 7300-7400 rpm just to be safe.

For the injectors I was thinking either 550cc or 600cc, but I'll def. call DW.

Having no experience what so ever with a S/C set-up I'll start with the 2.87 and take it from there, then if thing go well I'll give a try with the 2.62 pulley.

After talking with SouthFlMaxTech I now know his patch harness wont work on my 2k1, but I will make one myself so I can work-out the wire from the glove box.

I prefer to return the oil directly to the oil pan not in the timing case. For the feed I understand I need to get pressurized oil feed, is it that I will have to tap where the oil filter is ? I'm not sure I want to play there and fock up the block if something go wrong. I believe there is some universal adapter that would make a dual output, one for the oil filter and the other one to feed whatever the S/C, but I need to search more.

Thank you for the answers.

AA

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

When you had the motor built you upgraded the valve springs also?
What about the oil pump? Continously reving to 8k or higer will need those items adressed.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

The DEK heads have been worked extensively, fully port & polished, the intake & exhaust manifold ports are almost a 1/2 inch wider. The valve seats have been bored by 1 mm on a CNC by a local machine shop. I have the dual HR shim, HR spring, the valve guide have been replaced by custom valve guide made of manganese/bronze.

I also have the Toga oil seal. I have swap the oil pump for a Toga High performance oil pump. Some org member have reported that few people who have used the Toga oil pump and blow their engine, mostly Ford engine, but the real reason for the break up is that people dont follow the strict installation procedure given by Toga. The pump had to be submerge in a bucket of oil before the installation and spin manually in order for the oil to reach all the internal parts then installed. The difference is my engine was assembled by a professional shop and the rev cut-off will be set at around 7300 rpm.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Where I can get the oil feed tee for the supercharger ? I mean the one that goes between the block and the oil switch so I can feed the s/c with oil.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I tough of giving you some heads up on my project.

Tranny being painted Sterling Mist.


Yesterday we proceed to replace the 2 fuel line, it was a real PITA since we had to remove the gas tank wich was full of gas. But the good new is I wont have to touch that part ever since I have decided to replace the fuel tanks as there was a good amount of rust on the seem, while at it, I'm not taking any chance with that and will order a new one tomorrow.

I removed the stock fuel pump and proceed to install the walbro GSS 342, I modified it and it now fit on the 5th gen fuel assembly ) See dfownz thread for a writer up I posted up there: http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...ss-dfownz.html


Yesterday I also dropped the AT oil pan, the small round cover and another small cover along with the external tubing and all the visible bolts, nuts and bracket at the chrome shop, I'll have those parts back in 2 weeks fully show chromed.

One last thing, yesterday I brought the front Cattman headers to have it polished since I had mistakenly polished the rear one thinking it was the front one. The owner of the chrome shop suggested that the headers be show chromed instead of being polished. The flange being in iron the polishing wont last and rust will come back shortly, the cost 225$ cdn that include the 6 nuts for the headers stud and the 3 bolts & nuts where the headers merge into the collector. All in all the AT part describe along with the headers cost me 900$ cdn to be triple show chromed.


Updated info:

We removed the rear axle beam, disassemble it in 3 parts. I drop it to the sandblast shop and will get it back next monday. All the rear axles bolts, nuts are getting black chrome, the 3 parts rear axle beam will be painted metallic black and clear coated. I also took the RSB bolts, nuts and bracket and having those chrome as well.

The AT housing will ready to pick-up this coming wednesday or thursday, I have to wait for the chrome parts next week.

This week-end I'm installing the NWP thermal spacer kit. I'm going to remove the rust where the rear axle beam goes, at this point I'm trying to avoid to sandblast since I make a lot of mess in the garage, but I'll see what I can do to clean it out.

Stay tune some fresh pics will be posted once I pick-up the parts


Best regards

AA

doublea

iTrader: (7)

BTW I will post pics of the car later today. Sorry for not posting I've been running around a lot lately.
I will post some shortly.

Cheers

AA