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05-23-2008, 10:41 AM
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#1
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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another rmt up and running!
well i finished the the project....and the car is running...
however i got 440cc duetch werks and walbro 255 in with the setup....and boy is is pissin fuel in the motor....i have tried to make adjustments on the eu to compensate....but i cant seem to make any noticeablechanges....
as far as setting up the before and after injector settings...i put 239 as before and 440 as after....but i dont know what to put for duration....maybe this is y i a not able to adjust?? im using emanage ultimate....
please forgive if this is a newb question...but i feel like ive tried everything...
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05-23-2008, 11:25 AM
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#2
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GO TEAM GO
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: DeFuniak and Gainesville, FL
Posts: 15,226
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You're most likely gonna have to mess with the Injector lag time
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05-23-2008, 11:44 AM
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#3
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 571
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What kind of fuel pressure are you running? With Deachwerks 370's I have mine set about 35 PSI
__________________
'96 black Se, 5spd with grey cloth interior because leather sucks! Turbonetics T04E turbo, Spearco FMIC, Tial 38mm waste gate, HKS SSBOV, Deachwerks 570 injectors, GReddy E-manage Blue, Sard FPR, Stillen Flywheel, XTD 6 puck kevlar clutch, Zeitronix WBO2 with all the trimmings, and some other crap. TSW REVO 17" bronze wheels, Z32 brake conversion, K-Sport Coilovers with pillow ball mounts and camber plates, 84' 300ZX hood scoop, blacked turn signals, and tails.
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05-23-2008, 12:11 PM
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#4
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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how do i adjust the lag time? u meen duration?
as far as fuel pressure im not too sure....i dont have a fpr....
ive been holding back on posting because ima huge newb to all this...i figured i didnt need a fpr if i have the eu....
i have a couple data logs i did if anyone with eu knowledge would like to look at it...
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05-23-2008, 12:59 PM
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#5
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 571
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I'm running the E-Manage Blue, so I'm not sure what the differences in the two are in that aspect. When I put in the 370's I was having the same issue because the greater volume that the injectors allowed would douse the plugs with fuel. Once I lowered the fuel pressure a bit, she ran like a champ. Have the other EU guys kept their factory FPR?
__________________
'96 black Se, 5spd with grey cloth interior because leather sucks! Turbonetics T04E turbo, Spearco FMIC, Tial 38mm waste gate, HKS SSBOV, Deachwerks 570 injectors, GReddy E-manage Blue, Sard FPR, Stillen Flywheel, XTD 6 puck kevlar clutch, Zeitronix WBO2 with all the trimmings, and some other crap. TSW REVO 17" bronze wheels, Z32 brake conversion, K-Sport Coilovers with pillow ball mounts and camber plates, 84' 300ZX hood scoop, blacked turn signals, and tails.
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05-23-2008, 01:35 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 64
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wow kelly finally did something big to his car, man i thought i was going to be the only one with a turbo maxima in Sac. oh well i guess now there will be 2 turbo maximas running the streets. good luck on the project, i would like to see this setup!
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05-23-2008, 01:53 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 561
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I'd say you probably have a wicked high fuel pressure which makes the injectors just dump fuel. An afpr would be the most clear way to solve this issue....I think.
__________________
What will I end up doing with my Maxima?
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05-23-2008, 02:00 PM
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#8
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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yea well i was thinking of pickin up an aem fpr today and setting it to 3bar.....but i figured there has to be a way to adjust the injectors with just the emanage ultimate....
any thoughts?
btw...have i ever met u? i didnt know there was a boosted max here in sac....hmmm....and u know my name....
lol
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05-23-2008, 02:07 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 64
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umm team-driven ring a bell?
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05-23-2008, 02:12 PM
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#10
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GO TEAM GO
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: DeFuniak and Gainesville, FL
Posts: 15,226
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In the Parameter settings, click the I/J tab. Adjust the lag time there. You adjust the injector size there too
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05-23-2008, 02:13 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 64
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oh im not boosted yet just waiting for my exhaust to be made and my emanage blue to finally come in.. we met WAY back in 06 i think that was the meet at Elk Grove Nissan.. i've seen The Law around but haven't seen you for a while..
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05-23-2008, 02:21 PM
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#12
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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hmm yea cause i put before as 239 and after size at 440....then i left the duration at 0....is the duration the lag time? maybe put a value of 1 in there?
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05-23-2008, 02:30 PM
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#13
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GO TEAM GO
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: DeFuniak and Gainesville, FL
Posts: 15,226
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I/J Size 260 440
I/J Lage Time 0 0.4-1(try different values)
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05-23-2008, 02:38 PM
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#14
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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hmm ok so leave the before duration at 0....i think im gettin it
would not having that setup properly cause me to be unable to make successfull adjustments?? cause i kept subtracting on the i/j map and it had no effect on my a/r....hopefully yhe lag time will allow me to tune at least lol
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05-23-2008, 03:24 PM
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#15
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GO TEAM GO
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: DeFuniak and Gainesville, FL
Posts: 15,226
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Yeah try it out.
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05-23-2008, 07:04 PM
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#16
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 9,742
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My setup with 555's wouldnt even start till I messed with the lag time. Went through two sets of plugs and an oil change to be sage.
-matt
__________________
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05-23-2008, 07:29 PM
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#17
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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well, i tried 1.00 and .4...
at 1.00 it seamed like it was going to stall out...and my a/f did not seem to be effected...and this is with the i/j map1 activated and subtracting 1.00 from everything from 500-3000 rpms...
i let the car idle for a few minutes till it started to get a lil warm...then took it out for a drive...the damn car is drowning! lol....
shouldnt adjustments to the EU while running the car automatically have results? thats kinda what im confused about...adjusting to .4 duration on the after side (under 440) seamed to (i think) have an effect on idle...
what exactly does the duration meen? im not really understanding the concept in contrast to the numbers im inputing...enlighten me?
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05-23-2008, 08:45 PM
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#18
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GO TEAM GO
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: DeFuniak and Gainesville, FL
Posts: 15,226
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Try all the numbers at idle and see which one makes the engine act normal.
.1 through 1.4
You should find something good in the .4-.8 range
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05-23-2008, 08:49 PM
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#19
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 9,742
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Are you sure you have all the lower o-rings on the injectors ?? With the uppers, it wont leak outside the fuel rail, but without the lower, you'll just be POURING fuel into your cylinders.
Try your lag set the other way around...start .7 end 1 or something like that. I forget how I have mine set but my car was the SAME WAY. Wouldnt run even with -2.00 accross the entire I/J adj. map until I got the lag time right
-matt
-matt
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05-23-2008, 11:12 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,100
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I dont have an EU, so I cant help you on that.
But just to give you an idea, I previously had a Walbro190 with my All Motor setup, and used it in my RMT setup for a few months. FP was set at 51psi for the 3.5 swap.
Not doing ANYTHING OTHER than changing the fuelpump to the Walbro255, fuel pressure went up to 58psi.
An increase of 7psi AT IDLE is ALOT of fuel. Especially with the RC 440s I have.
Once you get the AFPR see where the pressure is and drop it down to the lower half of 40psi, check from there, leave it in the ballpark with fuel pressure adjustment, and fine tune with the EU.
BTW, do you have a wideband to keep an eye on the A/F?
CONGRATULATIONS BTW! where are the pictures!!!!!???!?!!??!?!!?
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05-23-2008, 11:15 PM
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#21
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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well there was only one set of o rings on the injectors...they just slid on from what i could remember...
im really curious as to know what your talking about with the O-rings tho...
I found that .02 lag time gave it the best idle possible...
its still dumping fuel out the tail pipe so bad i ran outa gas just idling for 10 minutes or so hahaha
i noticed that if i try to subtract 1 from the i/j map even with the lag time at .02 it run worse than if i were to only subtract .5
i guess its kinda dumb to start thinking about this but i think the problem is my lack of AFPR
any thoughts on this?
pics will be up as soon as i get this thing running right so i can get the finishing touches done at the muffler shop...i have a vibrant muffler on right now and it sounds like garbage and WAAAYYYY too loud..
Im gona try a magnaflow muffler, and if possibly even order a non louver type resonator for the b pipe (i hope it wound increase lag but i gota quiet this thing down a bit...)
Pics will be up tho i spent alota time trying to out-do streets setup
as for a/f i have a aem uego wideband so yes...
i also have oil pressure, boost and EGT
not completely wired in other than boost and a/f but they will be in as soon as i get it driveable..
Last edited by XeroX; 05-24-2008 at 12:16 AM.
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05-24-2008, 07:04 AM
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#22
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Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Frederick, MD
Posts: 2,304
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sounds like an o-ring problem.
__________________
1996 Deep Evergreen SE 5-Speed
12.9 @ 111 - Street Tires
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05-24-2008, 08:33 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,100
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an o-ring problem could be assessed by letting the car idle and spraying brake parts cleaner on the injectors at their base. If idle jumps erratically as you spray a particular injector, you have a candidate.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
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05-24-2008, 01:24 PM
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#24
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Its rainin game son!
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95BLKMAX
an o-ring problem could be assessed by letting the car idle and spraying brake parts cleaner on the injectors at their base. If idle jumps erratically as you spray a particular injector, you have a candidate.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
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well...yea ive been planning ahead lol...
AFPR was one thing i over looked...and i do remember two o-rings i was just confused as do what your talking about lol...
i used wd40 on the injectors not motor oil exactly...
ive installing the DEK injectors in when i did my VI...so i have the jist of how to put in injectors...and unless the duetch werks are different they should be in just fine..
as for the aem UEGO controller...it does have linear output.....on my data logs it gives me perfect readings compared with the actual gauge...i remember i researched that to do death before i got it...aem uego works just fine with the EU....
Im going to pick up and AEM AFPR today and give it a try...ill also try and test my o rings and c if thats the problem..i honestly think with a afpr most of these problems should go away haha
thanks for all the input! ill keep you guys posted with results...
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05-24-2008, 02:03 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XeroX
as for the aem UEGO controller...it does have linear output.....on my data logs it gives me perfect readings compared with the actual gauge...i remember i researched that to do death before i got it...aem uego works just fine with the EU....
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o0o0o0, well thats a new peice of info right there. If you say it works and its comparable to the gauge's readings, o0o0o!!! :-D good info!
And yea def. Im sure you're gonna have quite the stroy to tell of where your fuel press was to begin with, what you did to it, and how its running after, etc... trouble shooting! the fun part of b00st! 
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05-24-2008, 02:48 PM
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#26
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Its rainin game son!
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