Fred Allen Burge

Ahhhhh, the infamous cylinder 2 and 3 misfire strikes again....

Fred

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

I parked it somewhere in VA and its been missing since...

j/k, well glad someone did the TT. Cant wait to see/hear how it runs.

Bigcloud

Man I've been reading this since the beginning and didn't notice you were in Lorton. I'm in DC and if you would like any help let me know.

PTownMax

iTrader: (5)

update please

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

Would you believe me, if I told, that compression ratio has VERY little affect on overall spool up? Total mass flow, is what matters most to a turbine.. By raising the compression ratio, you don't affect TMF very much.. There is a slight increase in heat, which will affect transient response a little.. but, overall RPM that the turbocharger makes full boost, will remain relatively unchanged. To increase TMF, you would need to increase volumetric efficiency, with better flowing heads, higher port velocity, camshaft/cam timing, intake/exhaust manifolds.. etc.. But, a simple change in compression ratio, does not affect overall spool up RPM very much..

Travis

cld12pk2go

iTrader: (5)

I would actually expect worse spool with higher compression (just a very small, insignificant amount) due to a higher compression engine being more adiabaticly efficient so that it will leave less heat/energy for the turbine to recoup (all esle held equal of course).

The massflow, turbine wheel/housing size, and the compressor size are the dominate factors in spool response. The rest are much less important.

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

The only reason that it might spool slightly faster, is the benefit of a stronger exhaust pulse.. but, that would only matter with a properly tuned set of headers/y-pipe. But, the majority of spool up RPM and transient response, is dictated by mass flow (and the wheel/housing selection, of course..)

Travis

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

okay, i swapped the sensor with one i found on my old motor and it made no difference - im still not getting anything from cylinders 2 and 3. im too tired to think hard right now but that is where i stand - only thing that i can think of is no compression in those two cylinders, but i cant fathom how they could have just lost compression from adding turbos, and not being run. a link was posted about the timing chain being off a notch that can cause cylinders 2 and 3 not to fire but i never touched the timin chain or opened up the motor any more than taking the intake manifold off. im stumped as to what is causing this, its probably eletrical but im getting frustrated trying to figure it out. any more ideas?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

check the pulse to the injectors with a noid light, if you are getting pulse- ohm out the injectors. Nissan injectors do not like to be left sitting for a long time with fuel in em, they will go bad- I know from experience. Every old Nissan I left not runing for a month while away, always ended up needing a new injector.

hoohaa

I've never had injectors go bad from sitting. Sorry you are having problems with this project mang, that's got to be annoying to have to worry about these little details when you are on the verge of something so big.

I always love seeing someone do what others have said can't or won't be done. Way to shut them up! Awesome project, I love seeing people try new things.

BTW, I definitely want to hear more about this RWD project. I am very interested in suspension design and would love to hear more about your plans.

Fred Allen Burge

Have you ever had problems with a timing chain tensioner on this motor? Have you ever heard a strange knocking coming from the timing chain case area?

I belive my cyl 2 and 3 misfire was due to timing chain jump which I believe happened when I was compression testing my motor out of the car with the starter and a battery. The timing cover area was knocking loudly, turned out to be a bad tensioner, replaced tensioner, knock went away. I believe the cam sprocket jumped a tooth while the tensioner lost tension and I was spinning it over on the battery.

Just a thought.
Fred

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

my bad for not providing any info in a while, i just started a new job and ive been occupied with the z lately. i really am at a lack of info because i cant search, when i get paid tommorow i will have to donate to get access to that because its too essential of a tool to be without in my situation.

its possible, the motor in the car now is from a junked auto - i bought it with 33k miles on it from www.cherry-auto.com. I never even looked at the tensioner so i couldnt comment on its condition but ever since the first day i started the car and found that it was misfiring i had a gut feeling the timing was off. I am going to check the timing tonight if im not too tired (im fasting right now so im kind of fatigued) otherwise ill definetely make some progress this weekend. i got to order a starter for the z also so i can get that back on the road, but knowing that pos it will break something else as soon as i change the starter as it is, so maybe im better off investing time and money into the maxima instead. we will see, right now im just trying to stop myself from watching the clock here at work...

benson1127

Any updates? I would love to know what's going on with this car.

Vigo327

congratulations, your situation inspired me to post for the first time in forever.

heres an excerpt of an email i sent talking about my intrepid. it may not directly relate to your problem but might give you some ideas on stuff to check.as an aside, know whats helped a misfire more than any other single thing on this car? SEAFOAM! FTMFW!

Good luck with the car, pm me if you have questions about what you should be finding with your tests.

Vigo

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

i have the following codes:

0101 - camshaft position sensor ***********
0102 - mass air flow sensor
0304 - knock sensor
0401 - intake air temp sensor
1302 - MAP/BARO solenoid

im going to have to see what i can do about the camshaft position sensor. from what i understand, it has plenty to do with locating and firing the cylinders.

boostlogic

iTrader: (2)

Wow. You my friend are the SESKing. Do you think its possible that you have a bigger problem than all of those sensors?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like you have a bad ground or short in the wire harness to the ECU. There is no way all those sensors are bad all of the sudden.

X-Vert

Damn just finished reading all 5 pages... so much props to you, probobly the coolest project I've seen on the org.

Hope the tt setup comes through fine and you get it running smoothly soon, oh and if you pull off the rwd conversion... idk i'll come to your house and shake your hand ! lol

Good luck with everything.

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

okay, i was skimming through the fsm earlier and from what i was reading i couldnt figure out how exactly one could check if the timing is off by looking at the marks on the chain and gears. from my experience in changing timing belts, the only time the marks line up on the timing belt with the cam gears and crank pully is when you first install it. once the motor starts to turn all the marks end up in different places.

i dont want to take off the entire timing chain cover (as far as i know thats the only way to check the timing manually) without knowing what im looking for. can someone help me out with some info as to how i can verify if the timing chain has jumped? secondly, if the proper way to check the timing is by removing the timing chain cover (basically the entire side of that part of the motor), will i have to drain the oil before i do so (im assuming everything inside of the cover is lubricated)?

thanks guys for all the help, i know ive been slacking on this project but ive been in a lot of trouble with court and trying to balance a job and community service and fixing problems on my other car. in addition im working on getting a fc so ive been doing a lot of research to rebuild it. i need to get this car running before this winter kicks into high gear because the z is just too dangerous to drive in the snow without power steering. so expect me to kick this into full gear now, ive wasted enough time from starting this thread until now to resolve this issue, i need to get this moving quickly. next on the agenda is to perform a full circuit test on the car to find any shorts (circuits or grounds or both) which may be causing those codes, and then if that yeilds no results, to check the timing.

diymaximakid

iTrader: (2)

for the sensor check to make sure all the connections are good.meaning wiggle them when testing making sure its solid.Yes your gonna have to drain the oil when checking the timing.

massfastmax

iTrader: (1)

Wow im impressed this has been the best 5 pages i have read yet.amazing project I am simply amazed and can't wait for you to finish this up and here more about it. congrats on accomplshing the impossible. if you decide you want to try the mantioned direct turbo mounting and need a car to try this on my max may be available next summer for a project such as this. cant wait to hear more about this and hopefully see it completed very soon.
Goodluck,
Brendan

Applo_1

This is going to be ****ing crushin.

massfastmax

iTrader: (1)

any more news on progress or is it up and running

massfastmax

iTrader: (1)

what happened and why haven't there been any new updates I wanna know that someone finallly managed to twin turbo a 4th gen max. this would be one of the greatest myth busters ever if it gets pulled off.

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

there are no updates because i havent had time to do anything. the car still runs on four cylinders and I have yet to resolve that problem. I just ran into a nice wad of cash and Im working on selling my z so I may end up tearing it back apart and fabricating new manifolds to mount the turbos directly - but as of now its the same as last month - I just dont have enough time at the moment to do much, especially since all of my daylight is spent at work or community service.

Alex_V

I hope you get it done thats a really cool project. Im actually looking at a Vq30DETT in my s13 some time in the spring and summer. Do you know any one selling some T22's? they dont need to work I just want them for mock up in a few months.

~Alex

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

Timing chain is off for sure, no doubt in my mind, "I bought the T shirt" for this one A sort of easy way to tell if the main timing chain jumped is to take the front valve cover off and chec the position of the cam lobes at TDC and BDC. It was so long ago that I did this I cant rember exactly how the cam lobes should be pointed either full open of full closed, and they will be slightly not full open or closed if the main chain jumped. I wouoldnt bother though Im quite sure this is your problem.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

I agree with mardi I would start by checking the timming and do a compression check too.

maxima_kenny96

iTrader: (10)

..wow...good luck. read all pages, hope everything gets good soon.

PTownMax

iTrader: (5)

any updates???

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Holy no updates! Seriously, this looked like it would have worked if he had more time to invest in it.

Still, I wish you lots of luck to finish this even if we all wait another year.

Everyone update your user control panel information!

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Hey i was wondering about this also I wish you were near I would try to help!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Good luck! Look forward to hearing more.

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

could these codes (and my accompanied misfire) be caused by a vacuum leak from the intake manifold to the rear valve cover? after removing the motor i have found there is a hose that connects between the two that was not even connected on one end...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

CPS and IATS I can't possibly see being caused by a vacuum leak.

Any other work since your last update? Damn, I remember when this thread was first created...

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I used to have a problem long ago when i joined the org, my car wouldnt start, would give me alot of codes including the ones you showed, it turned out to be a bad camshaft positioning sensor. Have you tried using someone else's?

densetsu

iTrader: (1)

pmohr - currently im trying to get these turbos to clock so i can position them more effectively in the engine bay for 1) a better piping scenario (didnt like the one i originally made) 2) to position the oil return better since i had them completly wrong before and the turbo was leaking considerably on the exhaust side. i bought another set of turbos from another board and i havent had a chance to try and clock them but the ones i had from before werent budging a bit.

also, i never solved the misfiring issue, right now the motor is out and im cleaning and painting parts before i put it back in (cleaned up the engine bay too and painted it with some bbq paint). im trying to put it back to stock and i hope it works correctly before i proceed with the next turbo design.

streetz- no, i dont thing i tried to use someone elses camshaft positioning sensor. i may have a long time ago when the car was located elsewhere with my other motor but i cant remember if i tried swapping them or not. i did try swapping the crankshaft position sensor (the one on the transmission) but it made no difference.

i must say, your thread on your rmt inspired me when i read it (just read it not more than a month or two ago) and made me think what it would be like to have two turbos in the back. i like the idea of being able to remove the turbos and go back to stock easily, the only way i have found to feed two turbos in the front requires removal of the engine to install/remove the pipe feeding the turbo off the rear manifold. i like the idea of twin rear mounts but am battling with is effectivess... i dont know if i will put them in the back or keep them in the front, it really depends on if i can clock these turbos or not and whether they fit correctly if i can.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

i dont recommend doing twins on the back. leave them in the front. just try n figure out whats keeping ur car from starting. i suggest you try n test someone elses camshaft pos sensor

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Glad to see your still at it. Good luck.

97SMG

iTrader: (23)

I know you said you tried another cam sensor from your old motor, why not try to borrow one from a daily driven car. If that doesn't change anything and still gives you the 0101 code, you should wire the cam sensor directly to the ecu, just to try to cancel that out. Good luck with that, hope you get it running this year.