Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

For the feed line....
I know its from the oil pressure sending unit, but how exactly does that work. Ive tried to find it, but no luck.
The sensor just inserts into the block, not sure how to tap into that... could anyone point me in the right direction.

Also, how many of you guys are running oil coolers? wise investment?

Thanks,
Jeff

p.s. -Will start bending and welding the reverse y-pipe and downpipe this week ;D

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

The oil pressure sending unit is right above the lower oil pan, to the rear. It is just a plasic sensor that is threaded into the block with a rubber cover over it. Using this spot works because oil pressure comes out of the hole there into the oil pressure seding unit and the sensor monitors oil pressure. If the oil pressure sending unit was removed oil would come shooting out of that hole. That is why tapping off of it works.

The oil pressure sending unit is removed and a T-fitting threaded into the hole. On the opposite end of the T-fitting the oil pressure sending unit is put back so you still have a functioning sensor. It really does not have to be put back, but you would most likely get a CEL.

On the third end of the T-fitting, the one in the middle, the oil feed line is attached to take the oil to the turbo.

It is not complicated, but using the right type of threaded fittings and the right lengths is important because you have to clear the oil pan. The threads in the block are BSPT (British standard pipe thread), and the only available T-fitting I could find are NPT (National pipe thread). These two are almost identical but you really don't want to thread an NPT fitting into a BSPT threaded hole. Especially in an aluminum block. So I got BSPT to NPT adapters. Then I had to get an NPT to AN adapter for the feed line. It is very simple but I ended up spending $50 to to get all the right fittings. Some guys just use alot of teflon tape cram the NPT threads in the BSPT, but I would really not recomend doing this. The probability of oil leaks and ruining the threads in the block are very high.

subs1000w

you could also use somthing like this

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Browse/s-10101

Brad92SE

iTrader: (9)

Use this

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/blockfitting.htm

Using a big fitting on there will have the possibility of snapping off due to its weight. This is an excellent piece, the stock sending unit screws right into the back of it, and it has 2 extra holes to T off of, one for the turbo line and one for a oil pressure gauge, or what have you. They send you a set screw plug for one of the sides. I think they also have one with a single side outlet. All of the threads are correct.

Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

Hey, thanks a lot guys. Good info, I went with the stealthmode one brad suggested. Ill probably have a few more questions as I go along. I appreciate it.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Not sure how big that fitting is by looking at the picture but I don't see how it would work. Maybe the location of the sending unit is different on the 3rd gen but I needed some length to clear the oil pan.

Brad92SE

iTrader: (9)

I would guess the T-off is a little over an inch away from the threads that screw into the block.

Oblongshapes

iTrader: (1)

dammit, well i hope it works...


Anyone got pictures of their oil return bung?
I know theres a discussion about doing th upper pan, but wasnt it also brought up that taping the lower, black sump hasnt caused any return issues?

slimer

iTrader: (13)

mike, i like yours better than the way i have mine.

i have my oil pressure sender and feed line switched.