Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

after installing 2.87 pulley today i noticed the belt shreding and i look at the pulleys and found the belt is rubbing against the bracket of the compressor
i think the idler pulley is to big for that small pulley any one else have this problem?

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

you have to cut that post off! The 2.87 is small enough to make the belt drag across the post. It sucks you put all that on to find this out....

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

no one else has had this problem

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

oh thanks vortech

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Of course they have. It is the problem for sure. I wouldnt lie to you.
I have to cut mine in preperation for the 2.87! Im not sure what the best tool for this task is. Any suggestions?

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

but there is a bolt that goes thru that post i have the v2 w/aluminum bracket

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

er i think there is a bolt

and the worse part is i have to be ready in time for hin

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

I have that same post on the v1 too! You will be ok without it. You have 5 or 6 other bolts . I have run mine missing 2 of the longer bolts , no problem. It has been done. Ready for hin? The blower will be fine with out that bolt. My bro has v2 with v2 bracket with that post cut off. no problems.

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

well being aluminum i'm unsure on how to cut it but if i had the steel bracket i would use my die grinder with a cut off wheel

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

I would think you could use that, its softer than steel.




I have seen some actually cut a notch out for the belt to clear and I guess you could still use the bolt if you wanted. More work and not really needed though.

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

hin = hot import nights i'm doing a ton of mods at once and this was just thrown in when the first belt broke

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

well when aluminum heats up, unless it's forged it tears instead of cutting, i will try tommorrow and let you know how it comes out

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like fun. Looking at your pics you have alot of maxima friends around your way!

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

when i take it back off i will inspect and see which way is best, in my favor i am a nissan tech and have the car on my lift so i have plenty of tools and help all around me

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i also have recently started a nissan car club that as of now has almost all maximas in it, and i started the get togethers called MAXOUTS

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

That is the ****. You are a handy maxima friend. To bad your not close by

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

lol well if you ever need any wire diagrams er any technical help er to just b/s about the max's p.m. your # and i'll call you to see whats up.

-jeff

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

You know of anyone that would want to buy a 2001 max se 5spd/leather,v2 with 3.125, s-tech,illumina, act stage1, fidanza fly. Cluth and fly have less than 1k. struts and springs have less than 10k

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

maybe i can sure ask around, what is the asking price ?

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Im not 100% sure on price. I think around $16k. Its my younger brothers car. He just got a sti so ..... The car is nice and runs perfect, has cattman y too. I would buy it myself but now is not a good time for me to have to toys.

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

hey your max is hot man and it sounds like you got it hooked up as far as running goes, but if you want to p.m. me the actual price and i'll ask around at this fridays MAXOUT there where a couple of guys about a 5th gen last time

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

pics will help if you have any

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

I will ask him about the pics, im sure he has plenty. Its dark grey with factory 17's. Its as clean as mine. thanks by the way, my blower is at vortech right now getting rebuilt







Is this a new record for the longest 2 person post?

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

how much does that cost? and are they doing the upgrade?

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

It is suposed to be around $350 for rebuild. Upgrades im not sure, I havent spoke to them since I sent it to them so I am waiting to hear back. I would really like to get the E trim, check it out sometime.

Nismotech1

iTrader: (1)

i will, is it on the site? what signs told you it was bad anyway? i am extremely new at boosting i just put it in october,

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Well , it started to sound like crap. To some the v1 already sounds like that but it was noticable. That and it has 97k miles on it so I new it was time. The E trim is on the site, you have to look on the right side and find it in the matrix charts or something



Go to products/ charger units/ and you will see it on the right of the page/performance matrix

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...rformance.html

The specs of the E trim are very similar to the T trim. I wonder if the T trim is still more potent.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Don't know if this will help:

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

just grind that sucker down with a grinder thats what i did. i had the 2.87 pulley came close to just cutting it off but i just grinded it down till it couldnt anymore. like some said you can even cut the post off not really needed.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I cut that post off completely with no ill after effects.

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

The E trim is in the efficiency range longer and is higher too. It looks to be a bit better than the T trim.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

It's listed as a higher efficiency and it's very quiet however the T trim is listed to make more power and at a lower RPM. Everyone should also be aware that a T trim is even louder than a V1 S trim.

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

If more efficient is shown by one # being greater than the other you may have misread the chart. If it is the opposite....then I stand corrected
Type
Rotation
Finish
Air Inlet Opening (Hose Diameter)
Air Inlet Opening (Inducer Diameter)
Air Discharge (Hose Diameter)
Air Discharge (Inside Diameter)
Impeller Speed (Efficient Max)
Impeller Speed (Absolute Max)
Performance @ Absolute Speed (Max PSIG*)
Performance @ Absolute Speed (Max Flow CFM*)
Performance @ Absolute Speed (Horsepower Range)**
Adiabatic Efficiency

Supercharger
V-1/V-2 S-Trim
STD/HD
Clockwise or Counterclockwise
Satin or Polished
3.50”
3.10”
2.75”
2.38”
45,000
50,000
20
1,000
680
72%

V-1/V-2 SC-Trim
STD/HD
Clockwise or Counterclockwise
Satin or Polished
3.50”
3.10”
2.75”
2.38”
50,000
53,000
20
1,000
680
75%

V-1 T-Trim
HD
Clockwise or Counterclockwise
Satin or Polished
3.75”
3.29”
2.75”
2.38”
52,000
55,000
26
1,200
825
73%

V-2 SQ E-Trim
STD
Clockwise or Counterclockwise
Satin or Polished
3.63”
3.33”
2.75”
2.38”
62,000
65,000
26
1,200
750
76%

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

What are you trying to say?

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

I don't see much advantage to the T-trim. The max effic. is 52,000. The E-trim is 62,000. You would over spin the T-trim at 55,000.

T-trim At 6,550 rpm with 3.12 blower rpm will be 45195.
At 6,550 rpm with 2.87 blower rpm will be 49210.58
At 7,200 rpm with 2.87 blower rpm will be 54094.08
At 6,550 rpm with 2.62 blower rpm will be 53906.25

E-trim At 6,550 rpm with 3.12 blower rpm will be 47160.
At 6,550 rpm with 2.87 blower rpm will be 51350.17
At 7,200 rpm with 2.87 blower rpm will be 56445.99
At 6,550 rpm with 2.62 blower rpm will be 61832.06

Wouldnt it make more sense to run in the effic. area longer?
S-trim compressor map shows 70% effic. @ 40,000 rpm, peak @ 35,000
basing this off of v1 vs. v2 calculations

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

It looks to me like the Etrim could be the next trim level for the maxima.

SR20DEN

iTrader: (7)

So you're assuming for RPMs that are perfect. If you don't allow for at least some slip you'll burnup the accessories because of the very high belt tension. And the smaller pullies are going to slip even more.

The point is that the T trim will still make more power, and lower RPMs, according to the data that Vortech has provided.
Go ahead and buy the E trim so we can have some real data to compare against the T trim data that we'll have in a few months.

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

Who is upgrading to the T trim? I was looking at doing something like that but didn't know for sure that i could.

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

rpm's are not perfect . redline of 6550 is not perfectly correct either. Its probably more, maybe 6700 since the factory tach is usualy off. Im not trying to argue with you, the way I am interperting the information I would say the E-trim is a better unit. Im just looking at the #'s and to me E-trim looks better. Im not rulling out the T-trim at all. Very posible the T-trim is better. I hope soon someone might show prove or clarify this.