DaBoxSE

iTrader: (5)

I can no longer stand the loud airy sound of my interior, so Ive decided to start a project on soundproofing the car. Im not looking to go overboard on this only because I dont have a lot of money to put in. I wanted to get some suggestions on going about this to find out the best ways to do it.

One of my concerns is the air leaks within the doors. I bought some black undercoating spray to get the inside of the door shell and corners. I already have the quietest tires as well (Yoko AVS db) to eliminate as much tire noise as possible. Are there any other locations I can plug up to reduce vibrations and air gaps?

Im really doing this mostly for comfort rather than for my sound system, but that would also help. How much does dynomat generally cost for most panels? And would undercoating my car help or would all of this add too much weight? Input greatly appreciated

max'n out

Scott Bawalda just did some new sound deadning stuff he got the idea from Mark Eldridge let me copy and past what he said about it.

Here it is :
The factory carpeting was removed and B-Quiet spray sound damping was applied judiciously to the panels in the floorboard. A secondary layer of vibration damping was installed. It is a two-part polymer-molding compound. I got the lead from Mark Eldridge. This stuff, when mixed together, is self-leveling, and hardens to the consistency of a rubber "super ball" (remember going to the grocery store with Mom and putting a quarter in the machine to buy a super ball?) I poured this love into the floorboard on my car, and in 45 minutes, it was hard. After application, I measured the thickness to be 7/8" in the shallowest spot. Why did I do this? The possibility of vibrations from the kick-panel midbass drivers could possible ruin the effect of the subwoofer in the dashboard. You would've heard the sub and midbass emanating from the windshield, but you would "feel" the vibration on your feet, ruining the effect of the hard work done to shoehorn a subwoofer in the dashboard. This was probably one the best vibration damping I have ever done in a car, and it was well worth its $90.00 for 2-gallons price tag.

Above the sound and vibration damping media, a thick layer of carpet padding (jute) was installed. Above the jute, I opted to go with carpeting that came with "semi-webbed backing", verses backed carpeting. The backed carpeting could potentially cause a problem with reflections, where the semi-backing is much more likely to allow the sound to absorb through to the carpet padding beneath.

DaBoxSE

iTrader: (5)

Bump...
Should I use dynomat rather that all of that spray? how effective is the spray? I also figure it would be kinda tough to rip up the carpeting wouldnt it?

max'n out

Bquiet is a form a spray dynamat sort of it works but not alone. The other part of that post is a new thing there using it works similar to body filler two parts...you apply it and spread it around. It works better than dynamat and is cheaper but takes more time you don't have to take up the carpet you can do it on any metal panel. If you'd rather pay more for less time consuming stuff then dynamat will work.

Whitemax

There is also a mat form of B-Quiet as well. Just remember that the main purpose of any material whether mat or spray is to kill vibrations. It doesnt do a very good job of blocking noise. Thats why the person you mentioned also used carpet padding. Thats what I did as well, and it works wonders. Just remember that when doing any type of treatment, to lok at it as a 2-part process. The vibration treatment, as well as lowering noise. Carpet padding from Lowes or Home Depot is cheap, and if you stay away from Dynamat ( which is good, but VERY pricy. Remember most mat no matter the brand work pretty much the same), other brands of mat are cheap as well, so if you are planning on doing it yourself, its a job you can do for less than $150 (and a couple good days work) to really treat the car WELL. And No, removing the carpet from the car isnt hard to do at all.