VE Engine cutting out
12-07-2003, 11:27 PM
#1
VE Engine cutting out
This weekend my car starting acting up. When I accelerate (meduim throttle) I can feel & hear the engine stumbing (misfire) between 2000-4000 RPM. I replaced the plugs about 3 months ago (NGK).. But otherwise have had very little drivablity issues. To me it feels like an ingition problem. Any suggestions on where I should start looking?
12-08-2003, 07:32 AM
#7
OK, I have some experience with this. My car was stalling and I started replacing stuff as I could.
I cleaned out throttle body, still stumbled.
I replaced MAF -- still stumbled.
I took it to a dealer and had it diagnosed -- no coded and it never had the problem.
I checked all plugs, still stumbled.
I checked all coils (none were cracked at the time...) still stumbled.
Well, I put in a new y-pipe and during the process, my mechanic wiped off the o2 sensor with a rag. I was standing right there and he said, "this thing looks pretty dirty," and at the time I thought nothing of it.
After that, it never stumbled or stalled. We had a meet in November and MrGone pulled my coil packs, one of which had developed some cracks. I taped it with electric tape. However, after the mechanic wiped off the o2 sensor I drove for like two or three weeks with no problems.
So, I now recommend replacing you o2 sensor and checking your coil packs for cracks.
I was told by a former nissan mechanic that it was my Cam Position Sensor (wrong) and also a different nissan tech told me to be sure I have the right NGK spark plugs.
This problem (stumbling under acceleration) has been covered thoroughly and different things have been the answer for different people. The most common are coil packs, injectors, o2 sensors and spark plugs. You will probably hav to replace a lot of these, eventually, so start with the cheapest ones and work your way up. That's just my $.02 and you are welcome to do anything else you want.
Chris
I cleaned out throttle body, still stumbled.
I replaced MAF -- still stumbled.
I took it to a dealer and had it diagnosed -- no coded and it never had the problem.
I checked all plugs, still stumbled.
I checked all coils (none were cracked at the time...) still stumbled.
Well, I put in a new y-pipe and during the process, my mechanic wiped off the o2 sensor with a rag. I was standing right there and he said, "this thing looks pretty dirty," and at the time I thought nothing of it.
After that, it never stumbled or stalled. We had a meet in November and MrGone pulled my coil packs, one of which had developed some cracks. I taped it with electric tape. However, after the mechanic wiped off the o2 sensor I drove for like two or three weeks with no problems.
So, I now recommend replacing you o2 sensor and checking your coil packs for cracks.
I was told by a former nissan mechanic that it was my Cam Position Sensor (wrong) and also a different nissan tech told me to be sure I have the right NGK spark plugs.
This problem (stumbling under acceleration) has been covered thoroughly and different things have been the answer for different people. The most common are coil packs, injectors, o2 sensors and spark plugs. You will probably hav to replace a lot of these, eventually, so start with the cheapest ones and work your way up. That's just my $.02 and you are welcome to do anything else you want.
Chris
12-09-2003, 05:46 PM
#12
Originally Posted by barrylaud
This weekend my car starting acting up. When I accelerate (meduim throttle) I can feel & hear the engine stumbing (misfire) between 2000-4000 RPM. I replaced the plugs about 3 months ago (NGK).. But otherwise have had very little drivablity issues. To me it feels like an ingition problem. Any suggestions on where I should start looking?
12-11-2003, 10:27 PM
#13
Well the morons I took it to could not figure it out. I noticed it is now getting worse, it idle's like crap, and cuts out all the time. I will not need the car for a few days, so it can be parked.
When I fired it up today, it ran like a champ when it was cold, but once it warmed up it went to cutting out. Does this help??
Is there a way to pull codes off the engine? The check engine light is off.
When I fired it up today, it ran like a champ when it was cold, but once it warmed up it went to cutting out. Does this help??
Is there a way to pull codes off the engine? The check engine light is off.
12-12-2003, 05:45 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 486
Originally Posted by barrylaud
Well the morons I took it to could not figure it out. I noticed it is now getting worse, it idle's like crap, and cuts out all the time. I will not need the car for a few days, so it can be parked.
When I fired it up today, it ran like a champ when it was cold, but once it warmed up it went to cutting out. Does this help??
Is there a way to pull codes off the engine? The check engine light is off.
When I fired it up today, it ran like a champ when it was cold, but once it warmed up it went to cutting out. Does this help??
Is there a way to pull codes off the engine? The check engine light is off.
This may sound crazy but did you suspect bad gas or water in the tank? That will cause your problems. Try dumping a can of drygas in the tank and see if that helps if you havent alerady done so.
12-12-2003, 08:52 AM
#17
Please try to give this guy a hand. When I totalled my car, it went to Barry's shop. I had a BIG dispute with the insurance company about the storage charges. He helped me out BIG TIME! So if you guys have any ideas, let him know.
I sorta suspect a maf sensor. Maybe he has to clean the maf to harness connection. Or clean all his ground wire connections.
Hmm bad running when warm only. Clean the red coolant temp sensor connection
I sorta suspect a maf sensor. Maybe he has to clean the maf to harness connection. Or clean all his ground wire connections.
Hmm bad running when warm only. Clean the red coolant temp sensor connection
12-12-2003, 10:45 AM
#18
Building off Chris's idea, maybe put a 470k Ohm resistor in place of the knock sensor and see if anything happens? Whats the gap on the plugs?
I'd also try what Jeff said and clean the Coolant temp sensor. Also whens the last time you cleaned the throttle body? some people said that fixed their problem. LMK if you want to meet up or something some time to work on it.
I'd also try what Jeff said and clean the Coolant temp sensor. Also whens the last time you cleaned the throttle body? some people said that fixed their problem. LMK if you want to meet up or something some time to work on it.
12-12-2003, 10:31 PM
#19
Hey thanks for the advice. Mr Gone, I would rather pay someone locally who knows what the heck they are doing rather than going to the dealer. I will be out of town in Las Vegas until Thurs, but if you want to look at it, that would be awesome. I dont know how far I want to drive it though, I dont want to do any damage to the engine...
12-13-2003, 11:53 AM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,148
Originally Posted by barrylaud
Hey thanks for the advice. Mr Gone, I would rather pay someone locally who knows what the heck they are doing rather than going to the dealer. I will be out of town in Las Vegas until Thurs, but if you want to look at it, that would be awesome. I dont know how far I want to drive it though, I dont want to do any damage to the engine...
12-17-2003, 01:25 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1
Seems to be a quite common problem, heh? I have something like this too on VG. When engine is warm sometimes it hesitates big time. Even idle is very rough, surges 300-900rpm. Never stalls though. Pull over, wait for couple of minutes - everything is back to normal. If I cut engine and start it again - goes away immediately, but will be back as soon as loop closes - on warm engine very soon. Also there was small surging when rpm in 1500 - 2500 range.
This is what i did so far:
-checked vacuum hoses – nothing suspicious
-read trouble code - 13 temperature sensor - temperature sensor harness connector was broken off. Fixed connector, cleaned the code. Problems still there.
-replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap/rotor - haven't done this for 3 years, so it was long due anyway. Nothing changed except now it starts easier - was not a problem
-cleaned up injectors by adding injector cleaner to fuel - surging is gone, runs a little bit smoother but stumbling/hesitation is still there
Knock sensor? Does timing and/or mixture get adjusted when idle and knocking is detected? If not - it cannot be knock sensor.
Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance
This is what i did so far:
-checked vacuum hoses – nothing suspicious
-read trouble code - 13 temperature sensor - temperature sensor harness connector was broken off. Fixed connector, cleaned the code. Problems still there.
-replaced fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap/rotor - haven't done this for 3 years, so it was long due anyway. Nothing changed except now it starts easier - was not a problem
-cleaned up injectors by adding injector cleaner to fuel - surging is gone, runs a little bit smoother but stumbling/hesitation is still there
Knock sensor? Does timing and/or mixture get adjusted when idle and knocking is detected? If not - it cannot be knock sensor.
Any other ideas?
Thanks in advance
12-29-2003, 04:44 PM
#22
I have talked to barry and he said he had the Nissan dealer do a fuel injector cleaning service. Worked well and his car is running well. He used to work for a bodyshop and knew the service guy. So he got a good deal.
12-29-2003, 08:01 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 51
I'm going down the same road as most of you with the stumbling issue, as well as poor mileage (200 miles to a tank).
So far, just to get my car in shape, its had:
New VTCs (not rebuilt) - These made a huge difference, but not with the stumbling problem. Right at about 3400rpm, the car just takes off far better than before, in all gears. Excellent for surprise passes : )
New Intake Gasket. - This is pretty much a must for a car with 140k miles. Also MASSIVELY cleaned the intake and throttle. It stunk of carb. cleaner and other shop chemicals, but it shined all throughout.
New Spark plugs - These didn't really make a difference, but they were needed. While doing the 5th, i did find oil, sooo.....
New Valve Cover Gaskets, left and right. - More preventative maintenance.
New PCV valve and all related hoses. - This made the car run sooo much smoother, as all related hoses were either cracked or imploded in on themselves.
New Mass Air Flow sensor. - This made no difference with my stumbling, and the original still sends all the correct voltages. I now have two newish condition MAFs if anyone is interested.
Front Crank Seal - Did this a week or so after all the above work; found oil seeping down my oil pan. This is mind numbingly easy. Took me 15 minutes with a good set of tools.
And all the usual nissan tune-up bits. Factory fuel, air, and oil filters. I still have the rear main in the glovebox, waiting for a slow day at work. It needs it. Brakes were done new as soon as i bought it (silly now that i'm looking into Z32 calipers). The exhaust leaks a tad beneath the center console, but not so much that i failed emissions. Also, save for the drivers' seat, the entire interior has been removed for deep, deep cleaning (and to switch the gray cloth headliner and pillar pieces to flat black).
It still pulls very strongly, but at $1.70 a gallon for 93, i'd like to see more of that potential gas mileage...
So far, just to get my car in shape, its had:
New VTCs (not rebuilt) - These made a huge difference, but not with the stumbling problem. Right at about 3400rpm, the car just takes off far better than before, in all gears. Excellent for surprise passes : )
New Intake Gasket. - This is pretty much a must for a car with 140k miles. Also MASSIVELY cleaned the intake and throttle. It stunk of carb. cleaner and other shop chemicals, but it shined all throughout.
New Spark plugs - These didn't really make a difference, but they were needed. While doing the 5th, i did find oil, sooo.....
New Valve Cover Gaskets, left and right. - More preventative maintenance.
New PCV valve and all related hoses. - This made the car run sooo much smoother, as all related hoses were either cracked or imploded in on themselves.
New Mass Air Flow sensor. - This made no difference with my stumbling, and the original still sends all the correct voltages. I now have two newish condition MAFs if anyone is interested.
Front Crank Seal - Did this a week or so after all the above work; found oil seeping down my oil pan. This is mind numbingly easy. Took me 15 minutes with a good set of tools.
And all the usual nissan tune-up bits. Factory fuel, air, and oil filters. I still have the rear main in the glovebox, waiting for a slow day at work. It needs it. Brakes were done new as soon as i bought it (silly now that i'm looking into Z32 calipers). The exhaust leaks a tad beneath the center console, but not so much that i failed emissions. Also, save for the drivers' seat, the entire interior has been removed for deep, deep cleaning (and to switch the gray cloth headliner and pillar pieces to flat black).
It still pulls very strongly, but at $1.70 a gallon for 93, i'd like to see more of that potential gas mileage...
12-29-2003, 10:09 PM
#24
I got a pretty good deal at Nissan, $99 for FI Service. Although I knew the guy, so that helped out.
midoriryu, I do a lot of freeway/city driving. I typically get about 340-360 miles out of a tank. My mileage typically is from 24-26. You might try taking you car to a shop and having the FI Service done. It did the trick for me.
I appreciate everyone's help, and Mr. Gone for trying to fix my problem.
midoriryu, I do a lot of freeway/city driving. I typically get about 340-360 miles out of a tank. My mileage typically is from 24-26. You might try taking you car to a shop and having the FI Service done. It did the trick for me.
I appreciate everyone's help, and Mr. Gone for trying to fix my problem.
12-30-2003, 03:59 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 51
Not to burst anyones' bubble, but the "Fuel Injection Service" is a bottle of BG Fuel Injector cleaner poured into the gas tank. Takes 10 seconds. You get a slightly less direct dose if you use Chevrons' "Techron" treated gasoline.
http://www.bgprod.com/bgconsumer/bgservices/44k.html
And yes, i have used both the BG cleaner and i run Chevron gas (93 Octane) only.
http://www.bgprod.com/bgconsumer/bgservices/44k.html
And yes, i have used both the BG cleaner and i run Chevron gas (93 Octane) only.
12-30-2003, 09:07 PM
#28
I have run FI cleaner (bottle ino tank) through many of my FI cars. I have had three of them done professionally (pressurized - done my a shop), and every car has run considerably better after the shop completed the service. Maybe I have been lucky, but I think it's good preventive maint. around 100,000.
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