code 1008
11-29-2003, 09:02 AM
#2
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
11-29-2003, 09:29 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 114
Originally Posted by kevlo911
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
Thanks but, I already tried that. What did work was removing the valve to the canister (in back of left rear wheel) and cleaning it out with WD-40. After I did this I cleared the code and cycled the key several times...no more check engine light.
This should be an added step to the above procedure.
11-29-2003, 07:03 PM
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 33
The 1008 code will come back shortly. I replaced my valve which corrected the problem. It cost me about $150 for the valve, bracket, and two hoses. Nissan redesigned this valve since it was a common problem with the 1995 Maximas. My Maxima has California emissions.
I opened up the valve and the contacts were all corroded. The code has not returned since I replaced the valve.
I opened up the valve and the contacts were all corroded. The code has not returned since I replaced the valve.
11-30-2003, 10:11 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 114
Originally Posted by chiwchan
The 1008 code will come back shortly. I replaced my valve which corrected the problem. It cost me about $150 for the valve, bracket, and two hoses. Nissan redesigned this valve since it was a common problem with the 1995 Maximas. My Maxima has California emissions.
I opened up the valve and the contacts were all corroded. The code has not returned since I replaced the valve.
I opened up the valve and the contacts were all corroded. The code has not returned since I replaced the valve.
11-30-2003, 10:30 AM
#6
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 33
Thats the one. It has two hoses attached to it. If you open up the part, the contacts are probably all corroded inside. I had a hard time replacing the part since the dealer I ordered from sent me the wrong part, finally a dealer sent me a diagram to confirm the part.
08-12-2015, 01:46 PM
#9
Hey guys I'm currently going thru this same issue with my max and I need to get this car fixed quick since I have a smog test. I replaced the Evap volume control VLV with a used one and I don't think it worked. I tried to get this part from my local auto parts bu they don't carry it and dealer wants $380. Anyone know where I can get a new one for a better price
08-12-2015, 01:54 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
I had the same issue. I did a Google search and found a place that sells used, tested sensors. I paid 50 bucks.
While I do not recall the name of the place, a search on the net might find it. I will go through my old emails and try to find it.
Otherwise a trip to the wrecking yard is advised.
While I do not recall the name of the place, a search on the net might find it. I will go through my old emails and try to find it.
Otherwise a trip to the wrecking yard is advised.
08-12-2015, 03:58 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,979
08-12-2015, 06:53 PM
#12
Thanks guys. I'll check out that site. I bought a guaranteed used one on ebay but it didn't work so know I have to go thru the process of trying to get my money back. I took mine apart and noticed air did go thru it when I would blow thru it but after cleaning some parts up and lube it seems not to let any air thru when I blow thru it. I'm going to try my OEM next and see what happens
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