Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Update 2/17/10: Photo gallery had been added to the NWP Engineering website:

http://www.nwpengineering.com/VQ35DE...20Gallery.html

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Update 6/2/09: The swap is now complete!

This is the first known FULL ECU 3.5L swap into a 3rd gen Maxima.

1992 Nissan Maxima SE
Original Automatic (RE4F04V) w/ 203K miles on it (had to swap TC housings from a VQ30 trans)
Engine from 02 Maxima with 49K miles
FULL ECU swap with 02 Maxima ECU, NATS, ignition switch, steering wheel, and cluster all from same vehicle
4th gen crossmember was attached to custom brackets made by NWP then welded to frame of car
4th gen passenger axle was used in order to use the VQ passenger axle support bracket
Stock 3rd gen hubs and stock driver's side axle

Engine Modifications:
Headwork (valve seats lapped, full port and polish job) by NWP
JDM Camshafts
SSIM by Goodwin Motorsports
TB, Elbow, UIM, and LIM all fully ported by NWP
NWP Engineering Thermal Intake Spacers
HR head gaskets w/ coolant passage modified on block
HR valve springs dbl shimmed
HR head bolts
New valve seals
Revup oil pump
ARP rod bolts
Nismo SR20DE adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted on fuel rail for a return style system
Currently running stock 02 Maxima ECU, UTEC soon to be installed
McCord Power Plate electric exhaust 2.5" cutout
3.5L Altima eBay headers
Custom Mandrel bent equal length Ypipe from Headers to Cutout
PLX Devices M300 wideband (will need to get a Turbo XS Tuner wideband to work with UTEC)
Polyurethane filled 4th gen Maxima engine mounts
Solid custom mount on timing cover side of engine
Stock 3.5 Tstat slightly modified (w/ spacer) for reduced opening temperature

Transmission Modifications:
Original VE30DE transmission (203K miles) from 92 Maxima with 4th gen TC housing
Maximum Tuning VB recalibration
Suprastick TCM running as full standalone
Manual engagement of TC lockup and Overrun Clutch
EdgeRacing High Stall Torque Converter 3000 stall

No Dyno numbers. I'm really only concerned about how fast the car actually is instead of what kind of power it puts down to the wheels. I recently ran 13.59 @ 103.9mph with VERY hot weather, high density altitude of almost 2000 feet, and no traction with a 60 foot of 2.05 with the slicks. According to my calculations (which are always spot on), the car is capable of running low 12s ALL MOTOR when the weather cools down and I finish tuning it and do all my tricks for the 1/4 mile.

Problems After Swap:
Engine fired up the VERY FIRST TIME without any problems! The only other issues I ran into was getting the stock TCM to work. Had to buy a Suprastick. Also, the cruise control will not work probably because of the CAN errors I'm getting due to not running the 5.5g TCM. According to the FSM, the cruise control is dependent on not seeing a CAN error CEL. So, a 6spd 5.5g ECM will solve my issue since I know that has been proven to work with Jime's car.

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Original post:

As some of you may know, I am going to swap a 3.5 in the 1992 Maxima SE automatic NWP Engineering project car. My VE30DE recently took a puke, so now it's time to upgrade.

You can read more about the project car on the NWP Engineering website:
http://www.nwpengineering.com/maxima.html

It already runs high 12s with a 50 shot and 13.7s all motor. After this swap is complete, I should be looking at another 100HP at the wheels and it may be good for mid 12s all motor! I will then see what the nitrous can do after I make some NA runs.

Just today, I picked up my 49K mile 2K2 Maxima engine for $530. The engine and carfax reports seem to be very clean. There have only been 2 owners, with the salvage yard being the 3rd. The vehicle was in a front end collision in early July 08 and the engine has been sitting in the warehouse since. So it ran not too long ago, which is nice to know.

I plan on tearing down this engine to inspect everything. I hope to perform a leak down test within the next week or so to determine the condition of the piston rings and valve seals. Then I plan to install cams, ARP rod bolts, Z33 triple layer head gaskets (probably HR), inspect cylinder walls, and replace all other seals and gaskets. Also, I will probably do some minor head porting while I have them removed.

Here are the very first pics of the project:





Also, the torque converter housing is able to swap completely over from a VQ auto tranny to the VE RE4F04V tranny. So now my stock transmission will bolt directly to the VQ35. I used a housing from a 4th gen RE4F04A.

Swapping housings:


I'm sure I will have questions as I get further along in this project. But I finally made my engine purchase and figured I'd get this thread started.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!

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Update: Finally got the engine on the stand!

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Removed timing cover:



Rear timing cover removed:



Heads removed:





Got the pistons all cleaned up:

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Rev-Up oil pump and ARP rod bolts installed:


Headwork finished and heads resurfaced:


Pruned Dash Main Harness:

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

very very nice aaron, you've been an awesome pioneer to the maxima community.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

nice, good luck with the build it will be all worth it when your new all motor pb is faster than your old nitrous pb

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

That's what I'm shooting for!

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

plus your going to weigh next to nothing. I smell easy 12s probably more

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Me and one other guy unloaded this engine from the truck and walked it 15 feet. Then up 4 stairs! It's not light by any means. And those who have met me know I'm not a big guy. But the 3.5 is certainly lighter than the VE. I'm estimating 100lbs lighter. If anybody else has more concrete numbers, please post.

I'd like to run mid 12s all motor. But it all depends on how this engine build goes.

hadman

iTrader: (21)

Watching with great anticipation Aaron. Great to see it unfolding!

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

In!

NiZMo1o1

iTrader: (45)

Dude finally a 3rd gen with a VQ35, How much does your car weigh compare to the b15 spec Vs ? Im sure you can hit 12s easily ...

Kinda makes me want to add a 3rd gen now to swap

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

I believe the VQ35 HR bolts are just as strong as ARP bolts if you plan to use them on the heads.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

just wondering there are a few 3rd gen 3.5swaps out there but Aaron will be the 1st with a full swap correct

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Not sure. But my car weighs 2750lbs without driver. I hope to do more weight reduction during the project too.

I haven't chosen the head bolts just yet. I was just going to use 2K2 Maxima OEMs. But thanks for the heads up!

Yeah. There are two brothers in NY that have done this swap before but they haven't posted much information. They used a lot of 4th gen parts and swapped over the 4th gen timing components as well. I will be the first full ECU swap that I know of.

DrunkieTheBear

iTrader: (17)

That was a bit random

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

yeah I heard they used 4gen timing and ecu?

did you get the ecu and harness with this motor?

also what are your rpm and hp goals for this motor?

sorry for all the questions

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

wow! When we were talking about this yesterday I totally forgot you were a third genner, good luck with this swap I'm excited to see what kind of numbers you can hit with this.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Yes, they used the 4th gen timing components and ECU.

No, I haven't been able to find a full engine harness yet. That's one of the reasons this engine was cheap. They cut the engine harness at this particular salvage yard and they don't usually do that. They like to include it with the engine for free. Now, I'm having a tough time finding a yard that will separate the harness from the engine. I don't have the ECU yet, but my local salvage yard has everything I need. ECU, Ignition, Key, Imob, Cluster, Dash harness, and egas all from the same car! I hope to pick it all up today. It will take me a little while to pull the dash harness though since the dash and seats are fully installed. Not looking forward to that.

I don't have any rev goals. It all depends on how much power I make up top. That will determine my shift points. But with cams, headwork, intake port work, SSIM, and cutout, it should scream above 6K rpm. That's why I'm planning on upgrading the valve springs and ARP rod bolts. It should be able to safely rev to 7500 if needed.

I don't really have a HP goal. All I have is a 1/4 mile goal. I'd like to be able to see mid 12s or better all motor.

I don't mind questions at all. In fact, I prefer them. It gives me a chance to write down all my plans and if anybody wants to step in and offer suggestions or help, please do.

Thanks.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Any plans on HR pistons? Sounds like a fun project

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

No. But I haven't thought too much about it. If the leak down test and cylinder walls look good, then I may not remove the crank or pistons.

QNO_A32

iTrader: (7)

nice project and good luck for a healthy engine.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Does anybody know a good way to get the ignition off the steering column? Do you have to drill out those bolts holding the bracket on?

Edit: Nevermind. Everyone just drills them out I guess.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

BFH

kzoosho

iTrader: (16)

X2. Its a yard car. Break it all but leave the connections intact.

vqaltima

Good luck with the swap Aaron. Keep us posted.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Look what I got at the yard today! ECU, eGas, Cluster, NATS, and Dash Harness all from the same vehicle! I am going back tomorrow to get the ignition and key since I ran out of time today and couldn't get the ignition module off fast enough. I may just have to pull the entire column and take it home with me. That's what I bought, so I might as well.

But that dash harness was tough to get out! The interior was fully in tact since it's so new on the lot. It took me 3 hours to get all of these parts pulled today.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

BFH = Big Freakin Hammer?

I tried hitting it with a large screwdriver and hammer for a few seconds, but those bolts are on there pretty good.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Look at what I got this time at the junkyard this morning!



I ran out of time yesterday afternoon and had to come back for the ignition and key (column). I also scored a crossmember and two engine mounts from a 99 Maxima. All I need now is the front most (LH) engine mount bracket that bolts to the block. If anybody has one, please let me know.

But the 4th gen crossmember is MUCH better for the 3rd gen swap than the 02-03 Maxima crossmember. The 02-03 Maxima crossmember is 36 3/4" long while the 4th gen crossmember is 38 15/16" long. The 4th gen crossmember lines up pretty well to the front frame rail and the rear firewall exhaust tunnel. All I have to do is get some bolts and weld them in somehow. But I am surprised how smooth everything has gone so far!

hadman

iTrader: (21)

One might say... you have good carma

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

I removed the ignition this afternoon from the column. It was pretty easy with a small EZ Out.

accordingtou

iTrader: (41)

Subscribed

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

reading thoroughly

Tatanko

iTrader: (34)

I will be checking this thread daily

Great work so far, Aaron!

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I can't wait to see this finished. Good luck!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

got a question about the variable timing and the fact that you're probably putting in more aggressive cams..... are you going to have to totally re-map the variable timing points? cuz i guess the stock ECU's valve timing maps are "optimized" for the stock cam grind... whereas putting in different cams may throw that off a little bit

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Once again, I have to say that I'm only concentrating on getting this engine in there and running probably. I don't even have a UTEC yet. I will worry about tuning when I am up and running.

Maybe someone else can chime in to answer your questions.

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

What do you guys think of mounting a starter on a torque converter housing in order to compression test this engine?

Edit: What numbers do you think I should get by doing this test on a cold engine?

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

dam... just read through both of your threads here, good luck with this project, ill definitely be keeping tabs on it

This swap should be a little easier in that you wont be worrying about ABS, creature comforts, etc i assume

Id definitely do the compression test before you start getting too involved yet... Best way id imagine would be to hoist it and let it sit on a tire while you crank it around with the starter

Aaron92SE

iTrader: (128)

Thanks. I am concerned about oil burning issues with this engine. If I see any slight problems with the compression, then I will vouch for the leak down test most likely. I need to get my hands on a 4th gen starter before I can test compression though.

If anybody has one, please let me know.

maxine'sMan

iTrader: (6)

When I removed the ignition from the column I cut some slots in the heads of those screws but I have to give credit to madeinchina for that 'cause I got the idea from him.