Obsession_92-94

I noticed that this light will stay on or spontaneously come on while I am driving my 93 SE with the parking brake disengaged. It seems to happen more often when it is cold, but it occurs when it is warm as well. Any ideas as to what sort of wiring problem will I be looking at? This is starting to become a problem because there have been multiple times where I thought that I was riding my brake...

DBooker_93GXE

You sure that your brake pads or rotors aren't going bad??....I've had the same problem and thought it was something wrong with my e-brake wiring, but found out it was my brake pads (or rotors I think)....I've come to learn there's a sensor for everything on these cars

Obsession_92-94

No kidding? I never thought of that. The brakes seem to be in decent condition. I have not had them changed since I bought it back in March, but beyond that, I am not certain. She still can stop on a dime though. Did changing out the pads/rotors solve your problem?

DBooker_93GXE

I actually just learned this like yesterday when i went to check the prices for brakes, dude asked me if my car was equipped and i remembered seeing the brake like come on and he said that would more than likely be the cause....and it makes sense in my situation b/c i've had my car for a little more than a year now, and haven't replaced the brakes.....so i'm gonna hope that'll be what solves it

ProphetVG30E

check brake fluid

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

It's your brake fluid... be sure to top it off and the light will probably go off. It is lower in the morning because fluid is more dense meaning a lower level.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yeah, the sensor doesn't directly detect the brake lining wear. but as the linings wear down, the one-way valving in the brake master cylinder sucks more fluid down to take up the space left by the now-worn-away linings. spread across 4 brakes at 1/2" thickness and 20in^2 or so (total guess) on each pad... it really adds up over a brake life cycle.

Wiking

If fluid level is ok, then fluid level switch is bad, hb handle switch 'needs adj' or wiring is bad...

Obsession_92-94

Any recommendations on how to fix that? Sound like some interior digging to me.

Wiking

Haven't checked Maxima ... typically its attached to hb structure. Check the FSM. Bending sw support? Adding sm filler between sw and handle, so that switch is always off - at least for trbl shooting, temporarily.

Parking Brake Warning Lamp Switch Plate BR-28:
"...bend parking brake warning lamp switch plate..."

Obsession_92-94

Alright. I just put a little more brake fluid in. It was not at the minimum, but it was far from the max line. So I topped 'er off. Haven't seen anything yet, but we will see what that does for now. Thanks for the help folks!

Wiking

Level will go down only via leak. Leak means trouble. Trouble in brakes has potential to kill...

---> inspect lines rust&moist, take wheels out and inspect calipers for moist.

Fluid has to be changed every 2yrs.

Obsession_92-94

If there is a leak, it is pretty damn small as I have not seen any puddles/stains beneath the car.

Wiking

I bet u dont know when the supposedly semi-annual fluid change was done. Maybe the level was not then topped properly? Otherwise ---> a leak.

If there was a pool to see, then no brakes... Finding a minuscle leak (half coffee cup per 3yrs) is like the Truth = will not walk to you ... one has to seek diligently.

A minuscle leak is not dangerous per se. However, its indication of a massive burst to come. All brake related leaks have to be always repaired, its the duty for u self and for others. Car is a missile... don't let it launch unguided. The warning light was installed/designed to warn ya.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Most brake fluid leaks originate at one of the wheels(i.e. leaking caliper/drum cylinder/brake hose or metal line). Look at the inside(facing the car) part of your tires, if a caliper/drum cylinder is leaking, you usually see brake fluid running down the inside part of your tire at the bottom.

It also may be low fluid level from a previous brake job/bleed job, sometimes people/shops forget to refill the master cylinder reservoir after they bleed the system, then as your brake pads wear down, the fluid level drops below the safe level=the brake light.

Wiking

This is truly one way to have level down w/o any leak... As any tuneup, it pays to swap the pads before theyre totally worn out: as cylinders move out, old/used/worn pistons and calipers tend to stick and rust easier. Brakes start to drag. Mpg suffers, overheating can fry wheel bearings.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Brakes don't usually leak when you're sitting still. They usually leak when you're pressing down hard on the peddle as you're trying to slow from 80 mph, going down a 20% grade into a blind 180 degree switchback with a Semi going through the intersection just 100 yards past the switchback.......

Obsession_92-94

Good point. I should have thought about that. I will check the level and determine this next time I go driving and do some serious braking.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

If they are leaking, the normal places are near the wheel cylinders or by the master cylinder. Also flex hoses. Hard lines can rust, especially in those salty rust belt states, but I always check where the rubber parts are first.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Ok, How many times have you had to top off your brake fluid reservior? Leaks happen even when you're siitng still and off (Gravity)! As you brakes wear the caliper piston moves further out holding more fluid. So if you haven't really been doing any PM your brake fluid level gets low and there goes your illuminated brake light! I read most of the replies do you have rear drums or disc? Pull those wheels and inspect your brakes if you continually have to top off your brake fluid reservior!