I’m proud to be part of the 300 horsepower club! :oD
#1
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
I’m proud to be part of the 300 horsepower club! :oD
I went to the “Dyno Day” at Dyno Extreme on Sunday, 03-02-08 in Stanton CA (near Knott’s Berry Farm in Buena Park) with James / The Wizard. It was nice to meet up with Joe (joebangaa) and Mike (VIPMaxima, banned, ). Good job guys on your dynos by the way.
It was a fun time. Lots of high horsepower Supras and other cars. Lots of food, snacks and drinks. Bikini car wash, etc.
Well, I got my highest horsepower to date! 322.76 HP and 307.82 TQ.
Last year I was around 240. So, with an 80+ HP increase, I’m quite stoked, to say the least.
A HUGE thanks goes out to Jimbo “The Wizard” Ozouf for helping me crank out 3 pretty big mods in just the week before the dyno.
Total (power) mods and variables are as follows:
Un-tuned
Unless I say otherwise below, I have all OEM parts and the “stock” parts that come with the Stillen SC kit (yes this means: stock injectors, stock MAF, standard Vortech FMU with 8:1 disc, Bosch bypass valve, stock fuel pump, etc.)
One-step colder NGK platinum plugs gapped to 0.037”
91 Octane gas
13.7 lb 17” rims
12.5 lb 12.2” rotors (stock are 15lb ea.)
Cattman cat-back
LSS test pipe (just for dyno and track days)
Warpspeed Fed Spec aluminum Y-Pipe
Fed Spec. left bank manifold (from Fanaticrock – thanks man!)
(I did a CA spec --> Fed Spec left exhaust bank manifold conversion which eliminated the huge left bank pre-cat. I installed a Cattman O2 simulator for the two downstream O2 sensors)
Vortech V2 supercharger, freshly re-built
2.87” Vortech SC pulley (see boost/PSI information below)
Custom intake piping
A 5”d x 8”l PWR water to air aftercooler (barrel design) with a Bosch water pump, a Jackson Racing front-mount heat exchanger, and a Vortech ice chest/water reservoir.
Thermal insulation to protect the underside of the intake tubing from the exhaust manifold/engine heat.
4th gen. Variable Intake set at 5200 RPMs (installed by The Wizard, the VI master)
Freshly rebuilt I30t VLSD automatic transmission (with Hayden #403 cooler)
Perma-Cool oil cooler (not sure if that results in a power increase or not, but, just in case)
I think that’s it. I hope I am not forgetting anything.
Oh, and my I30 fuzzy A, B and C pillars (good for at least 10 HP )
I have a bad memory but I think the mods that are new this time (322HP) from last time (240HP) are: one-step colder plugs, lighter rotors, Cattman catback, Fed. Spec. conversion, re-built blower (which fixed a chipped impeller blade and inlet oil leak), a few more PSI, larger PWR AC which replaced a smaller JR AC (see explanation below), 4th gen. VI, VLSD tranny with cooler, oil cooler. But I did have my fuzzy pillars last time (otherwise I would have dynoed at 230)!
As far as the boost / PSI level... Well, on the dyno I made maximum boost of 10PSI. However, I always hit 12PSI max on the street. The dyno owner/operator told me this was normal and it’s because the dyno has less of a load than the street. Huh?
I recently replaced my small 3”d x 11”l Jackson Racing (JR) water to air aftercooler (AC) with the PWR AC mentioned above. The PWR is supposed to be more efficient in cooling and result in less boost loss. I now lose 1PSI across the PWR AC where before I lost 2PSI across the JR AC. I also have a dual intake temperature gauge by Autometer. I have one probe upstream of the AC and one downstream. With my JR I would see about a 10 degree difference during idling/cruising and a max delta of 40^ during a full boost run. With the PWR I know see a 15-20^ delta when cruising and a 60^ delta during a full boost run. During the dyno, I added ice to the ice reservoir and saw a max delta of 85^!
Dyno Extreme didn’t hand out dyno graphs that day. So, excuse me for the digital camera photo of my dyno. The owner should be sending out the run files via e-mail shortly so I will post up the dyno when I get it. Also, these are the uncorrected numbers.
I’m really stoked. Two of my dreams were achieved at once: 1.) Break 300HP and 2.) Get a single-digit weight to horsepower ratio (~2900 lb / 322 HP = 9.00 LB/HP!!).
It was a fun time. Lots of high horsepower Supras and other cars. Lots of food, snacks and drinks. Bikini car wash, etc.
Well, I got my highest horsepower to date! 322.76 HP and 307.82 TQ.
Last year I was around 240. So, with an 80+ HP increase, I’m quite stoked, to say the least.
A HUGE thanks goes out to Jimbo “The Wizard” Ozouf for helping me crank out 3 pretty big mods in just the week before the dyno.
Total (power) mods and variables are as follows:
Un-tuned
Unless I say otherwise below, I have all OEM parts and the “stock” parts that come with the Stillen SC kit (yes this means: stock injectors, stock MAF, standard Vortech FMU with 8:1 disc, Bosch bypass valve, stock fuel pump, etc.)
One-step colder NGK platinum plugs gapped to 0.037”
91 Octane gas
13.7 lb 17” rims
12.5 lb 12.2” rotors (stock are 15lb ea.)
Cattman cat-back
LSS test pipe (just for dyno and track days)
Warpspeed Fed Spec aluminum Y-Pipe
Fed Spec. left bank manifold (from Fanaticrock – thanks man!)
(I did a CA spec --> Fed Spec left exhaust bank manifold conversion which eliminated the huge left bank pre-cat. I installed a Cattman O2 simulator for the two downstream O2 sensors)
Vortech V2 supercharger, freshly re-built
2.87” Vortech SC pulley (see boost/PSI information below)
Custom intake piping
A 5”d x 8”l PWR water to air aftercooler (barrel design) with a Bosch water pump, a Jackson Racing front-mount heat exchanger, and a Vortech ice chest/water reservoir.
Thermal insulation to protect the underside of the intake tubing from the exhaust manifold/engine heat.
4th gen. Variable Intake set at 5200 RPMs (installed by The Wizard, the VI master)
Freshly rebuilt I30t VLSD automatic transmission (with Hayden #403 cooler)
Perma-Cool oil cooler (not sure if that results in a power increase or not, but, just in case)
I think that’s it. I hope I am not forgetting anything.
Oh, and my I30 fuzzy A, B and C pillars (good for at least 10 HP )
I have a bad memory but I think the mods that are new this time (322HP) from last time (240HP) are: one-step colder plugs, lighter rotors, Cattman catback, Fed. Spec. conversion, re-built blower (which fixed a chipped impeller blade and inlet oil leak), a few more PSI, larger PWR AC which replaced a smaller JR AC (see explanation below), 4th gen. VI, VLSD tranny with cooler, oil cooler. But I did have my fuzzy pillars last time (otherwise I would have dynoed at 230)!
As far as the boost / PSI level... Well, on the dyno I made maximum boost of 10PSI. However, I always hit 12PSI max on the street. The dyno owner/operator told me this was normal and it’s because the dyno has less of a load than the street. Huh?
I recently replaced my small 3”d x 11”l Jackson Racing (JR) water to air aftercooler (AC) with the PWR AC mentioned above. The PWR is supposed to be more efficient in cooling and result in less boost loss. I now lose 1PSI across the PWR AC where before I lost 2PSI across the JR AC. I also have a dual intake temperature gauge by Autometer. I have one probe upstream of the AC and one downstream. With my JR I would see about a 10 degree difference during idling/cruising and a max delta of 40^ during a full boost run. With the PWR I know see a 15-20^ delta when cruising and a 60^ delta during a full boost run. During the dyno, I added ice to the ice reservoir and saw a max delta of 85^!
Dyno Extreme didn’t hand out dyno graphs that day. So, excuse me for the digital camera photo of my dyno. The owner should be sending out the run files via e-mail shortly so I will post up the dyno when I get it. Also, these are the uncorrected numbers.
I’m really stoked. Two of my dreams were achieved at once: 1.) Break 300HP and 2.) Get a single-digit weight to horsepower ratio (~2900 lb / 322 HP = 9.00 LB/HP!!).
#5
Never mind just read the post again. Man this is truly awesome. I will be running the 3.6pulley, no cooler, 440cc, VAFC, wideband, FMU and intank 255lph HP pump. Hopefully i can make some real numbers. Again congrats.
#9
Nice numbers man!! Especially through an auto! One would presume you are getting close to the limits of the stock MAF?
I actually plan on running stock maf, stock injectors, stock fuel pump with the vortech fmu + trex pump and see what im capable of putting down.
I actually plan on running stock maf, stock injectors, stock fuel pump with the vortech fmu + trex pump and see what im capable of putting down.
#13
This only makes sense for turbocharged cars, and even then I think it suspect. Being supercharged, you should hit the same boost level every time you get to redline at full throttle (i.e. bov closed). I'm wondering if it has to do with less convective cooling of the engine and intake tract on the dyno stand, resulting in hotter, less dense air being pumped into the engine. Just thinking out loud.
#14
Hey, Yeah! I gotta get me one of those PWR A/W coolers! No, wait, I do have one... I just haven't been able to wedge it in and get the hood closed, with the cooler in the same position that you placed yours. How'd you do it? It looks the same size?!!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
#15
Hey, Yeah! I gotta get me one of those PWR A/W coolers! No, wait, I do have one... I just haven't been able to wedge it in and get the hood closed, with the cooler in the same position that you placed yours. How'd you do it? It looks the same size?!!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
Josh and I constructed a template which resembled your 6" x 10" PWR aftercooler. The hood would not close and the piping would have been extreeeeeemly difficult/ugly. PWR just now started carrying 5" barrels. We both now have 5" x 8" barrels.
As for checking oil, it just works out perfectly. We can barely get to the dipstick....... another inch, and it would have been a problem.
#16
Licensed to Spell
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Murrieta (southern California)
Posts: 4,521
Thanks guys for all the congrat's.
Thanks aj. Well, that's only one location for the AC. Some people have box design W/A ACs and place them where the OEM battery sits.
Hey, let's just say that Mountan Dew has never hurt anyone's HP numbers. I must have downed 8 Dews that day (they were free).
Not sure if I am pushing the limits of the OEM MAF. I think it's fine.
You know we can't have it any other way Jerms.
It's not bad to have an auto - or my numbers aren't bad for an auto? lol
Yeah, the customer who overheard me speaking to the tech about my dyno-10 vs. my street-12 said he sees 24PSI on the streets and 20 on the dyno with his 4th gen Supra but, again, that's a turbo. I certainly wouldn't say I had hotter air being pumped into the engine. I used ice with my aftercooler for lower intake temps than I see on the street without ice.
Good luck Mike. I think you'll be hard-pressed to shoe-horn in that 6"x18" beast. It might be possible (we experimented with a 6" Foldger's can) but you'd have to smoosh your radiator against the front fender, perhaps carve a little into the plastic radiator supports and rest the AC against the engine (and radiator). And you may need to modify the underside of your hood a little. You'll also have to get rid of the dual cross-over pipe design, of course. I do think it can be done but some or all of those measures will need to be taken. When I closed the hood on my coffee can, the hood closed but dented the can 1/2 inch. So you need to gain another 1/2"+ of clearance with some creativity. Good luck.
Thanks aj. Well, that's only one location for the AC. Some people have box design W/A ACs and place them where the OEM battery sits.
It's not bad to have an auto - or my numbers aren't bad for an auto? lol
This only makes sense for turbocharged cars, and even then I think it suspect. Being supercharged, you should hit the same boost level every time you get to redline at full throttle (i.e. bov closed). I'm wondering if it has to do with less convective cooling of the engine and intake tract on the dyno stand, resulting in hotter, less dense air being pumped into the engine. Just thinking out loud.
Hey, Yeah! I gotta get me one of those PWR A/W coolers! No, wait, I do have one... I just haven't been able to wedge it in and get the hood closed, with the cooler in the same position that you placed yours. How'd you do it? It looks the same size?!!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
How do you check your oil?
Anyway, congratulations and great work!
#20
Spell much?? Maybe you shouldn't call yourself the grammar police after all; and your license should be revoked.
#21
Oh and most people are probably going to assume it's just cosmetic mods you have there. It'll still surprise people!
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