Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

After it's been sitting around about a month or so, it takes a few minutes to start the car. It will start initially for about 2 seconds, then die. After that, I need to keep cranking it for a while until it starts for good. When I turn it off, it will start right back up If I attempt to withing a minute or two, but if it's been sitting around for a half hour the same thing hapens again. Any suggestions as to what is wrong? Bad fuel/fuel pump? No pressure in the rails? I already drove it to the station and put new fuel in it thinking that this would solve the problem, but it's still here!!

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Oh ya, I put new fuel in it, there was about 1/4 tank of old fuel still in...problem is still there.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

bump

Yohann

Could be a signal problem with the engine crank sensors. There are two and they both need to agree on the cranking speed before they will allow the ignition to fire.

If it is initially starting and then quits it could be a lack of fuel pressure in the rail.

If you are getting an intermittent ground from the crank sensor, specifically the rear crank sensor the cure is rather odd and extensive, plus expensive if you can't do it.

Strange as it may seem, the 100% fix for my Max was to remove the trans-axle, clean the bellhousing and transmission case interface, clean all the connecting bolt holes and coat the works with dielectric grease, then reassemble. It's actually only happened a few times and it is the actual Nissan fix for this problem.

Good luck!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^ the reason for that is a poor ground
there is no need to remove anything thats just a cash grab.

any codes first of all?

Yohann

We tried all the obvious ground problems first, the sensors, the strap, starter etc. The trans/bellhousing ground fix was the only thing that worked in this situation.

L0R1DA

Long crank-to-start with no unusual driveability symptoms is most commonly caused by loss of residual fuel pressure. To keep the fuel system primed and ready to work, residual pressure which is built up during operation is maintained by the fuel injectors (normally closed), fuel pressure regulator, the check valve in the fuel pump (where applicable), and partly by the seal of the gas tank cap. All that is needed to lose this pressure is a leak. An external leak in a fuel system would be very dangerous but probably easily located because of the smell and appearance of liquid fuel. Internal leaks may not be as easily noticed but if you know how the system works than you can diagnose it. You are most likely looking at leaking fuel injector(s) and/or fuel pressure regulator. I would perform a thorough visual inspection to ensure there are no external leaks through worn hoses, lines, or connections, just in case. If that turned up nothing, I would just replace the injectors and fuel pressure regulator (as it is not economical to flow/leak test the injectors or FPR) along with the fuel filter.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

thanks guys I think it was the fuel pressure.

Burt

I've got the same problem with codes 0807 and 0801 which I don't think are related. Can the evap system mess with fuel pressure? Is there an easy way to check the regulator or injectors or should I just eat the money and replace them?

mpvibes

iTrader: (1)

IT MIGHT BE THE ALTERNATOR