What size spacers would you recommend?
12-18-2007, 09:40 AM
#1
What size spacers would you recommend?
I am looking to make my wheels flush with my fenders, possibly even stick out a LITTLE bit.
I would assume maybe a 5mm or 10mm for up front, but what would you guys recommend for the rear?
Any particular companies to recommend that already come with studs? H&R, Eibach, Ichiba? Websites with the cheapest prices? Will spacers from the Z fit our car?
How much does a set of these weigh?
REAR
FRONT
I would assume maybe a 5mm or 10mm for up front, but what would you guys recommend for the rear?
Any particular companies to recommend that already come with studs? H&R, Eibach, Ichiba? Websites with the cheapest prices? Will spacers from the Z fit our car?
How much does a set of these weigh?
REAR
FRONT
12-18-2007, 10:00 AM
#2
I honestly can't recommend a spacer with a picture, heres how I do it...
Get a string and tie something to the end of it, should be long enough to clear the wheel gap if you have any. Place the string on the very top of the fender and let it dangle. Use a metric ruler and measure out how much you need.
Since you have a 6th gen, when the suspension compresses you should clear the fender by miles when the wheel cambers in. I like a little pole as well
5-10mm, though the latter is cutting it close. Also make sure you roll your fenders for extra protection...
All of the spacers you listed are of good quality...just go with the cheapest...
Get a string and tie something to the end of it, should be long enough to clear the wheel gap if you have any. Place the string on the very top of the fender and let it dangle. Use a metric ruler and measure out how much you need.
Since you have a 6th gen, when the suspension compresses you should clear the fender by miles when the wheel cambers in. I like a little pole as well
5-10mm, though the latter is cutting it close. Also make sure you roll your fenders for extra protection...All of the spacers you listed are of good quality...just go with the cheapest...
12-18-2007, 10:24 AM
#3
ya, that's another thing...It seems that if I were to do spacers on the rear, then it would definitely touch the fender...
I also don't really want to roll my fenders either...how would that look since they are already kind of "rolled?" Pricing?
I also don't really want to roll my fenders either...how would that look since they are already kind of "rolled?" Pricing?
12-18-2007, 07:44 PM
#7
You can probably find someone to do it for 20 bucks a fender, or do it yourself if you are brave enough
Its really not hard, just takes a baseball bat, heat gun, and some patience...Don't rush it or you may chip the paint...
12-19-2007, 07:48 PM
#9
Agree with the above. You also have to remember that the wheel will gain some camber upon rear suspension compression, not move straight up into the fender.
Any brand will probably be fine as long as it is hubcentric although it seems H&R is probably the most popular choice with Maximas.
Any brand will probably be fine as long as it is hubcentric although it seems H&R is probably the most popular choice with Maximas.
12-19-2007, 08:09 PM
#10
Agree with the above. You also have to remember that the wheel will gain some camber upon rear suspension compression, not move straight up into the fender.
Any brand will probably be fine as long as it is hubcentric although it seems H&R is probably the most popular choice with Maximas.
Any brand will probably be fine as long as it is hubcentric although it seems H&R is probably the most popular choice with Maximas.
Search parts shop max over at Zilvia.net, they have fairly cheap spacers, though they don't make anything smaller than 15mm (great for the rear), I think they are like 70 bucks and hub centric
12-19-2007, 08:52 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 996
I just bought a pair of Eibach spacers from www.ultrarev.com (5mm were $62 shipped)
<try SALE in the coupon slot, 10% off IIRC>
If your unsure of the size, you can try using washers for a test fit. DO NOT drive the car with washers as spacers. The washer method works so you can see if the wheel has other issues caused by the spacer. It will also let you check wheel stud thread engaugement, I found on my Z that any spacer requires longer studs.
<try SALE in the coupon slot, 10% off IIRC>
If your unsure of the size, you can try using washers for a test fit. DO NOT drive the car with washers as spacers. The washer method works so you can see if the wheel has other issues caused by the spacer. It will also let you check wheel stud thread engaugement, I found on my Z that any spacer requires longer studs.
Good point. we w/ H&R's take it for granted since most if not all of their kits come w/ appropriate size studs.
12-19-2007, 09:01 PM
#13
hmmmm but your wheels are 8.5'' wide while mine are 8''What does "hub-centric" mean?
I just bought a pair of Eibach spacers from www.ultrarev.com (5mm were $62 shipped)
<try SALE in the coupon slot, 10% off IIRC>
If your unsure of the size, you can try using washers for a test fit. DO NOT drive the car with washers as spacers. The washer method works so you can see if the wheel has other issues caused by the spacer. It will also let you check wheel stud thread engaugement, I found on my Z that any spacer requires longer studs.
<try SALE in the coupon slot, 10% off IIRC>
If your unsure of the size, you can try using washers for a test fit. DO NOT drive the car with washers as spacers. The washer method works so you can see if the wheel has other issues caused by the spacer. It will also let you check wheel stud thread engaugement, I found on my Z that any spacer requires longer studs.
?????
Last edited by !PrjctMax!; 12-19-2007 at 09:06 PM.
12-20-2007, 06:55 AM
#15
Hub-centric means that the spacer will have a bore diameter of 66.1mm which is the same as the stock wheels. This means that the spacer will be perfectly seated on the hub when tightened. Same principal as h/c wheel rings, Jeff's Cobra rings, etc. They are incorporated to avoid vibration at speed from not spinning on the hub's axis.
By "we w/H&R's", NmexMAX is referring to people that use the H&R wheel spacers.
By "we w/H&R's", NmexMAX is referring to people that use the H&R wheel spacers.
12-20-2007, 03:24 PM
#16
Hub-centric means that the spacer will have a bore diameter of 66.1mm which is the same as the stock wheels. This means that the spacer will be perfectly seated on the hub when tightened. Same principal as h/c wheel rings, Jeff's Cobra rings, etc. They are incorporated to avoid vibration at speed from not spinning on the hub's axis.
By "we w/H&R's", NmexMAX is referring to people that use the H&R wheel spacers.
By "we w/H&R's", NmexMAX is referring to people that use the H&R wheel spacers.
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/nissa...s-p-58232.html
Those are 66.2...is that still good?
12-20-2007, 10:23 PM
#17
aha! gotcha.
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/nissa...s-p-58232.html
Those are 66.2...is that still good?
http://autosportstyle.com/shop/nissa...s-p-58232.html
Those are 66.2...is that still good?
BTW 5mm will barely be noticeable (people usually use those for tight clearances), if your going to do it then go all out. Just go out and measure and round down 5mm or so...i am guessing about 15mm should do the trick
Last edited by Fast1one; 12-20-2007 at 10:26 PM.
12-21-2007, 07:02 AM
#18
I am sure they are fine, all Nissans have the same bore size (may be one or two that I can't remember), so it may be a miss-print, or some clearence for an easy fit...
BTW 5mm will barely be noticeable (people usually use those for tight clearances), if your going to do it then go all out. Just go out and measure and round down 5mm or so...i am guessing about 15mm should do the trick
BTW 5mm will barely be noticeable (people usually use those for tight clearances), if your going to do it then go all out. Just go out and measure and round down 5mm or so...i am guessing about 15mm should do the trick
I am considering 5mm up front because it is already pretty close to being where I want it to be. 15mm would be in the rear, even though I still have to measure both of them with washers to see where I really want them to be.
If I use washers as a temporary just to see how it fits...will the lug-nuts still go on, or will there be too little thread left?
12-21-2007, 07:37 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 996
^^ You will normally have about 12mm of thread to play with, so you may not be able to simulate a 15mm spacer with washers. Count the turns of the lug nuts and X by 1.25 that will tell you how much thread you have. ie 10 turns = 12.5mm
12-25-2007, 08:27 AM
#20
I finally measured them this morning...
REAR
FRONT
The rear looks to be about 8-9mm and the front looks to be about 4-5...so would you guys agree that 5mm in the front and 10mm in the rear would be sufficient?
Merry Christmas!
REAR
FRONT
The rear looks to be about 8-9mm and the front looks to be about 4-5...so would you guys agree that 5mm in the front and 10mm in the rear would be sufficient?
Merry Christmas!
12-25-2007, 10:21 AM
#21
Yeah I would sat 5 and 10 would be perfect, unless you want a little poke, in that case increase them by 5-10mm, Merry Christmas!
Edit: BTW I have about 15mm of poke in the front, camber is 0, 2 finger gap, and I have NO rubbing in the front. You will probably be fine with a little poke
Edit: BTW I have about 15mm of poke in the front, camber is 0, 2 finger gap, and I have NO rubbing in the front. You will probably be fine with a little poke
12-25-2007, 11:01 AM
#22
Yeah I would sat 5 and 10 would be perfect, unless you want a little poke, in that case increase them by 5-10mm, Merry Christmas!
Edit: BTW I have about 15mm of poke in the front, camber is 0, 2 finger gap, and I have NO rubbing in the front. You will probably be fine with a little poke
Edit: BTW I have about 15mm of poke in the front, camber is 0, 2 finger gap, and I have NO rubbing in the front. You will probably be fine with a little poke
12-25-2007, 12:18 PM
#23
Most likely, you have IRS, my 4th gen does not, so it should compress and tuck in enough for a measly 5-10mm if your not utterly slammed...
If you have slight rubbing with 10mm of poke you can always add a tiny bit of negative camber...so long *** your Toe is in line, camber doesn't do too much at all on its own. Combined with bad toe though it can wreak havoc
If you have slight rubbing with 10mm of poke you can always add a tiny bit of negative camber...so long *** your Toe is in line, camber doesn't do too much at all on its own. Combined with bad toe though it can wreak havoc
12-25-2007, 06:19 PM
#24
12-25-2007, 06:20 PM
#25
12-25-2007, 06:25 PM
#26
? lol
12-26-2007, 10:56 AM
#32
I'd say the rear measurment is more like 14mm and the front is about 6 or 7mm. With my very limited knowledge of this topic of spacers I think you could easily fit the 5mm on the front and then go with the 10mm on the rear and it should look even without worry for rubbing. 15mm on the rear will be close and could likely fit but I always error on the side of caution. As always, post pics when done.
12-26-2007, 12:58 PM
#33
and remember.... when you are taking pics and posting them on the internet, people will look for the smallest thing...
12-26-2007, 03:36 PM
#34
Why don't Canadian rulers start it measuring lines at the edge of the ruler?
I'd say the rear measurment is more like 14mm and the front is about 6 or 7mm. With my very limited knowledge of this topic of spacers I think you could easily fit the 5mm on the front and then go with the 10mm on the rear and it should look even without worry for rubbing. 15mm on the rear will be close and could likely fit but I always error on the side of caution. As always, post pics when done.
I'd say the rear measurment is more like 14mm and the front is about 6 or 7mm. With my very limited knowledge of this topic of spacers I think you could easily fit the 5mm on the front and then go with the 10mm on the rear and it should look even without worry for rubbing. 15mm on the rear will be close and could likely fit but I always error on the side of caution. As always, post pics when done.
stupid 
on my side! 
Didn't notice that until now...so ya, the edge of the ruler is about 5mm, so rear should definitely be a 15mm, and the front should be good with a 5mm
thanks for the clarification!
01-11-2008, 10:48 AM
#35
Alright...I finally got around to getting washers and testing out the "space." Someone told me that you do not need longer studs with 5mm spacers...and ummm the nuts threaded on maybe 1.5 turns, so I would assume that studs ARE needed.
The washers that I used were about 3mm a piece. I used two up front and I liked the results. I put 3 nuts back on and put the car on the ground in this picture.
As for the rear......................wtf is wrong?
5 washers=about 15-16mm
I could NOT get the wheels on with the nuts, so I just propped the nut remover on the bottom of the wheel so that it would stay "flat" and I could take a picture. When I looked in the holes, the studs were perfectly flush with the studs, so NO thread was sticking out.
I know the wheels would camber in once put on the ground, but holly **** the wheel sticks out A LOT! Keep in mind that I want a FLUSH look.
Here are some more "measurement" pictures.
5 rear washers
pleaz helpz
dan
The washers that I used were about 3mm a piece. I used two up front and I liked the results. I put 3 nuts back on and put the car on the ground in this picture.
As for the rear......................wtf is wrong?
5 washers=about 15-16mm
I could NOT get the wheels on with the nuts, so I just propped the nut remover on the bottom of the wheel so that it would stay "flat" and I could take a picture. When I looked in the holes, the studs were perfectly flush with the studs, so NO thread was sticking out.
I know the wheels would camber in once put on the ground, but holly **** the wheel sticks out A LOT! Keep in mind that I want a FLUSH look.
Here are some more "measurement" pictures.
5 rear washers
pleaz helpz
dan
!