o2 simulator - where can i get one for my 99
11-17-2007, 04:56 PM
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 53
o2 simulator - where can i get one for my 99
im looking for an o2 sensor simulator for my 99 gle and i find universal ones but i dont trust they will work . has anyone used them on a 99 succesfully and if so what kind and where to get them would be a great help.
11-18-2007, 02:17 PM
#4
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...4b810beba73ee1
got that one on my 97. Works great.
I left the sensor in, to avoid throwing a heater circuit code, but I cut the signal lline and ran it to the o2sim instead.
got that one on my 97. Works great.
I left the sensor in, to avoid throwing a heater circuit code, but I cut the signal lline and ran it to the o2sim instead.
11-18-2007, 02:47 PM
#5
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...4b810beba73ee1
got that one on my 97. Works great.
I left the sensor in, to avoid throwing a heater circuit code, but I cut the signal lline and ran it to the o2sim instead.
got that one on my 97. Works great.
I left the sensor in, to avoid throwing a heater circuit code, but I cut the signal lline and ran it to the o2sim instead.
What kind of CAT do you have?
11-19-2007, 07:11 AM
#6
11-19-2007, 08:04 AM
#8
I'm just gonna say everything, before people ask it one post at a time...
95-96 have "non-heated" sensor mounted ON the cat. The ECU looks for o2 signal only.
97-99 have a "heated" sensor mounted BEHIND the cat. The ECU looks for o2 signal AND heater circuit.
non heated sensor = 3 wires (power, ground, signal)
heated sensor = 4 wires (power, ground, signal, heater)
The heater circuit is basically just power, run to the sensor to "heat" it up, rather than waiting for the exhaust gases to heat it up. This way it can begin working sooner.
The heater has a resistance associated with it, if the ECU doesn't see this resistance, it throws a code. You can try to simulate the heater with a resistor, but thats just a PITA IMO.
This means on a 95-96 you can remove the sensor and completely replace with a simulator.
On a 97-99 you have two options. You can try to simulate the signal AND the heater(good luck!). Or, you can do what I did, and leave the sensor's power, ground, and heater hooked up. Then just splice in the simulator's power, ground and signal. You retain the sensor for the heater, and simulate the signal. This makes the ECU happy and he won't throw a CEL at you!
Oh, and o2 sensor wires don't like to hold shape when bent, and solder won't stick. You'll have to crimp them together somehow, or I suppose you could use a vampire tap to avoid cutting.
everything ^^^ is AFAIK. correct me if something's wrong....
95-96 have "non-heated" sensor mounted ON the cat. The ECU looks for o2 signal only.
97-99 have a "heated" sensor mounted BEHIND the cat. The ECU looks for o2 signal AND heater circuit.
non heated sensor = 3 wires (power, ground, signal)
heated sensor = 4 wires (power, ground, signal, heater)
The heater circuit is basically just power, run to the sensor to "heat" it up, rather than waiting for the exhaust gases to heat it up. This way it can begin working sooner.
The heater has a resistance associated with it, if the ECU doesn't see this resistance, it throws a code. You can try to simulate the heater with a resistor, but thats just a PITA IMO.
This means on a 95-96 you can remove the sensor and completely replace with a simulator.
On a 97-99 you have two options. You can try to simulate the signal AND the heater(good luck!). Or, you can do what I did, and leave the sensor's power, ground, and heater hooked up. Then just splice in the simulator's power, ground and signal. You retain the sensor for the heater, and simulate the signal. This makes the ECU happy and he won't throw a CEL at you!
Oh, and o2 sensor wires don't like to hold shape when bent, and solder won't stick. You'll have to crimp them together somehow, or I suppose you could use a vampire tap to avoid cutting.
everything ^^^ is AFAIK. correct me if something's wrong....
Last edited by mowgli29; 11-19-2007 at 08:14 AM.
11-19-2007, 08:09 AM
#9
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