Help.De-k swap, Being Very Slow...
#1
Help.De-k swap, Being Very Slow...
Sup, i have a 96 auto maxima with a 01 dek motor, just finished the swap. I just got the vafc2 to engage the VI. i have it set to engage at 4600 rpms, you can feel the pull when it opens. It is just that off the line it wont take off like it did, it wont even turn over the tires. A buddy of mine has an 04 Grand Prix GT and before the swap i could get it a little bit especially on the launch, now i cant get him on the launch, but when we get going he aint pulling none. my correction on my vafc2 is all +4 because the car runs very rich. I might have it wrong it could be running richer. If anyone knows what could be the problem let me know please.
#2
Might just need a tune, you can do it yourself if you have a wideband or you can put it on a dyno. After I did my swap, I made around 155whp mostly because it was running rich. After I tuned it and I went back it put down 200whp on a collasped y-pipe. I wouldnt mess around with the correction without knowing your a/f ratio but i remember having a fair amount of correction if a/f at 13.5.
#3
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+4 would be more rich, you need to be running with a -x if the car runs rich to lean it out. also, running rich would def make a noticeable low range power loss
#7
You don't have to bump a thread within the same day it was started, much less do it twice. Help/advice will come when it can.
Now that that's been established you need to either get on a dyno or buy a wideband o2 sensor to know what the exact a/f ratio is.
Now that that's been established you need to either get on a dyno or buy a wideband o2 sensor to know what the exact a/f ratio is.
#10
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=543625
#12
Well yeah, after i left lastnight I set it all back to zero. It still smells rich and no power off the line. another thing whenever I hooked up the vafc i didnt space the two red (+) wires and the black, & brown (-). so this morning i was on the way to work, i left at 5:15( thankgod trying to be early) and i was on my way, just cruising. Well, my car cuts off, i checked all the fuses (fine) and try it again, all the gauge lights work except the cel, and the vafc has no power. well I started grabbin the wires trying to get them from not touching and put a space in them. well i turn on my ign. and it powers up after about 10 mins. in 36 deg. weather. I get to to goin down the road again about 1 mile. Then the same thing... so i got out on my knees in the frost and went to wiring it all back up in the cold,dark, with a lighter. I was pretty P-O'd but i got it. I drove the car all the way to work with no more problems.-hopefully stays that way. Has anyone had any similar problems.? and does anyone have about the same mods with a dek, that has been tuned.? I am gonna take it and have it tuned, but the closest place is in Crestview,Fl. Tedo007 told me about it. and said that it was like $40 for 3 runs, and $80 to fully tune it. So i am going to do that ASAP. and if JeEvE made an extra 45hp. just from tuning, I am goin to get on it probably this weekend. Just let me know what yall think.
#13
45 hp from tuning ALONE? Need links to that. on an NA set-up, assuming his first run was not with a dead KS.
Also, why wouldn't you ground those wires as it clearly pointed out in the directions?
Also, why wouldn't you ground those wires as it clearly pointed out in the directions?
#14
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i picked up almost 35 from my baseline, could be possible he was running off the charts rich like that. if it was a de-k its not that hard to believe that it was under 10:1
#15
When I first installed my dek without afc and wideband o2 it dynoed 172hp and was running 10:1 a/f.After getting a/f to 13:1 it jumped up to 199hp.You definitly need to get that a/f ratio corrected and it will feel like your driving a different car.
#16
Another thing i noticed that it only cuts the ecu off when it is cold. Dont know why that is. I Dont know why i didnt seperate the wires on the vafc. i just thought that it would be just the same, just thought that apexi just put that there. just like Loritabs says "take 1/2 to 1 every 4 to 6hours" some people take 5, or 6 in 4 to 6hours.( example ) BUT anyways i have to get all my wires right.
#19
Aside from your fuel issues, 4600 is too early for the crossover point. 5000 is much more optimal. You should not be able to feel any definite point where it starts to pull, it should be a smooth pull from idle to redline.
#21
You're ignoring what I said. You SHOULD NOT be able to feel a distinct pull at any given RPM. The reason you feel a pull at 5000 is because you're opening up the manifold too soon, and then at 5000 it's in the range where being opened up is optimal, so you're actually lagging from 4600 to 5000 and then all the sudden pulling like you should. It's an illusion of speed. You're actually hurting your performance for a 400 RPM range by a lot, which can mean a lot of lost momentum.
#25
Originally Posted by Tatanko
4600 is too early for the crossover point. 5000 is much more optimal.
#26
well yes that is much better, and yeah i wasnt sure i needed to dyno, or just get a wideband.-debating. and yeah i didnt understand what tatanko was saying, but now i do. i as opening way too early. I could still feel a harder pull at 5000rpms.
#28
Did you solder in your vafc? If not, its probably going to end up causing more harm than good.
Also, if you want to learn about what you're doing, read up a bunch more and figure out which route you want to do - there's plenty of information here for you to know everything.
Also, if you want to learn about what you're doing, read up a bunch more and figure out which route you want to do - there's plenty of information here for you to know everything.
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