TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

UPDATE 01/11/07:Problem Found>http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ght=hard+start
anyone else experiencing something similar. READ THIS THREAD! It fixed my problem> To sum it up you need to run a ground from the starter bolts to the tranny, I also added one from the tranny ground point to the strut mount stud(body)


just looking for some advice, car has 213,000KM,
just recently after the car has cooled down (a few hours) it'll crank over, 'half' fire, then crank again, repeats for a good 8 cranks.
If I give it a shot of throttle when it 'half' fires she'll start up.
Seems to me (guessin) that im losing fuel pressure after it sits.
Is there a pressure check valve or something of the sort that could be allowing it to lose its prime when its sitting for any length of time, or what/how show I check? only other thing I can think is a relay, but it only does it after it sits for an hour or two. Its a 5spd.
Any advice would be great. sure someone has experienced this, damn maximas the run great, if you can get em runnin, thanks for any help.
matt

19Maximus98

I am having similar problems with my Max, hard starting after sitting for a few hours. I figured the fuel pump is working so maybe it is the fuel pressure regulator.

Hammy

I Know What it is, Give me 2 minutes to look up the part name.

Edit:
Its the tempature coolant sensor, IIRC it was 17 bucks at autozone and all you need to change it is a 19mmn
wrench.

http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

andrei3333

i had a weird crank recently that was fixed by replacing the starter

check my video and tell me if its similar to your problem

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2b6-nN0mr4c

ROCKART

iTrader: (23)

im watching and thinking "holy sh*t his spedometer goes up to 220mph!! what mod is that?"
then i remembered you were canadian and i was an idiot.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

are you sure, i would think that its the idle control sensor on the TB, those go bad often when car hits over 100k miles

andrei3333

AAAAhahahahahah thats hilarious - yeah its called the Canadian Mod and its available anywhere in CANADA


yeah i wish i could drive that fast, and BTW if the government does not want people to speed then why not put a chip in every car that tops out the speed at 100 Km\h (maximum legal speed limit in Ontario)

PS im not canadian btw i just live here

Hammy

In the FAQs there is something about it, being that if the car sits in the sun or is warm that it has starting issues because of the TCS.

I'm going to look more into it though, You may be right.

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Check 'ur coolant level first (K.I.S.S.), check your FIC (Fast-Idle-Cam) It's a small plunger on your throttle body that applies throttle when your engine is cold, it retracts away from the throttle bracket once warm coolant begins to pass through it, it has an adjustment, and steps for doing so can be found in the FSM, EC-29.

J-hop

lol because people like us would just take those chips out.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the feedback,
andrei it is similar to your vid, just more cranking in between fire's.
my starter is new however.

coolant's good, ill have to inspect this FIC tomorrow. Good info never would have known that man appreciate it. Ill keep updated.

19Maximus98

My issue is hard starts after the car has been sitting for a while and cools down, so I dont think it could be this. As for Starter troubles, having had this porblem with previous cars I am certain it is not that. Will do somemore tinkering this weekend. Thanks

95jr6708

hey man, i got the same problem, i have had it for some time...and now with the weather cooling down, it seems harder and harder...so if you figure this one out, let me know what you did please!

and if i solve mine i will let you know...

i have had a similar problem it ended up being the ignition switch...

J-hop

I tend to agree with you, i ran into this problem when i was tuning my cranking pulse width on my custom fuel management system on my last car. A cold engine requires a lot more gas during startup then a hot car - has to do with atomization etc, therefore if the temp sensor is reading improperly and is telling the ecu that the coolant is hot/warm then you will have to crank it over several times get it to pop. If I were you I would try it, its a pretty inexpensive fix and probably needs to be done anyways

67whitegoat

iTrader: (4)

CTS.

19Maximus98

Thanks guys, I am going to give this a try and let you know what happens. The price on that link is actually $34, but probably needs to be replaced anyway. Will get back to you next week.

scooby68

Longgggggggggg crank when starting first thing in the morning AND also if car has sat for half hour or sometimes even 15 minutes, so its not hot/cold issue. It will start instantly if I interrupt the initial crank (let off the key) and immediatly turn the key again and crank it a second time whether it is hot or cold! Happens every time, second turn of key and the car starts instantly like it was new. Changed fuel/air filters, using 93 oct, suspect fuel regulator issue?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

upon further playing around, ive noticed my issue to be the same, and also if i crank it, let off, and turn back immediately, it works! I also changed air/fuel filters.
I wonder now, because it seems to do it after only 15mins of sitting, if it could be a relay, starter most likely, at least i would assume so because of the crank/letoff/crank right away. Im goin out right now to check the other suggestions Ill let you all know what turns up,

xkazik

iTrader: (14)

i have the same problem . where is this part located http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm ? if i want to change it?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

ok sorry for the late update,
ive checked the FIC, all apears good there,
and the CTS, is this not the ECTS ?(engine coolant temp sensor/engine temp sensor). In checking the FIC you also check the ECTS correct?, so it should be good right?
I forgot to mention i have 1 code, but ive had it for 30,000km. its the EVAP 0903.
so i doubt it has any bearing here just wanted to mention.
I'm still lost, and it seems to be getting worse, have not noticed much difference between cold/hot at all. the car runs mint when i get it going, so I truly am lost here. Im going to go out now and swap the starter relay, any other ideas though? thanks again for imput so far.

edit- swapping relay did nothing. If I just push in the clutch and crank, with no gas, not quick flips on the ingnition or anything, she cranks and cranks and cranks, FINALLY when it fires, bogs just a bit, and I can smell fuel. Im really puzzeled on this one, no idea where to look next,,,

scooby68

Im with you bud, unfortunately I'm in the middle of water pump reapair waiting for parts shipment so the car is down and not running. My thoughts were moving in fuel regulator issue, possibly clutch interlock, ignition key things......I don't know either, maybe we need to start a new thread on this one, but I'm too new at navigating here. Vince

hermtm2

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem in ny 96' I30. I spent almost $1k but it is still pain in the a****. I found a guy who sloved the problem so sent PM to him. However I'm still waiting his answer. As soon as I get the answer, I will let you know.

scooby68

Thanks, that would be tremendously helpful on this long time tough issue, mine has been doing it for at least 4 years and just haven't found the time to chase it down since I had discovered the "double start" solution go around. Downside is I had to replace the starter, not a big deal but eventually double starts catch up to it.

BTW, I have 97 SE, I understand that its a California car, even though I bought it here in NJ.

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

on cold starts, my 99 max sometimes takes a few seconds to crank up. It turns over with no prob, not losing any battery power either. what could be that problem? never had the problem before now

btw, i only have 113,xxx miles

scooby68

Thats still good bro, if you find out what he put in then it will narrow down the options. thanks!

scooby68

Hi, I'm curious if you tried this with any positive results?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I assume you are talking about trying the FIC? all tested good as I stated above, so grrr . still playin with this one, hopefully someone can give me somewhere else to check, relays I've pretty much ruled out.
One thing illbe doing is upgrading my intake - firewall and tranny to chassis grounds, and just quickly double checking connections on the starter and my already upgraded grounds.
will keep updated.

scooby68

If your is the same as mine it can't be starter, as the rpm's on the starter's cranking is never deficient. I've had three different starters in this car in its 200k miles, with different tooth counts, I think one was a seven and the other a nine or eleven or something and it hasn't made a difference in this issue for the record. Have you checked relays or had someone do that? It's been a consideration on my end as well as fuel pressure regulator possibility?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

i just changed relays with others in the box of the same kind. Im still thinking this is a sensor issue, however I'd assume it to be a CKP, etc, otherwise a possible ignition switch, but is that possible? Would it not just stop working or could it have a poor connection? Im still thinking this is electrical, I start school on monday but if i can fit time in I'm going to test the fuel pressure, and check over my grounds at the very least.
Anyone have any ideas ?????

scooby68

Well, when I did have the ignition switch go couple years back, I took apart the old one to try to fix it first (PITA) and the rotary set of contacts for each key position had the very last one(Starter contact) almost worn flat. So that explains that if I turned the key REALLY firm that it would start, if your starting with light to normal key pressure then its most likely something else at this point.

95jr6708

just keeping my promise...took it to stealership because this had gone on long enough (about a year and half). they replaced the electrical part of the ignition switch...starts just fine now.

about a year ago i replaced the mechanical part and that solved that problem...

just my .02

one more thing...this happened gradually...first only during cold weather, then if it was below 80 degrees outside then 90 etc...finally it just started to crank and crank if i left it for any amount of time...hope this helps.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I'm really starting to think this is the ignition switch, playing with the key a bit seems to have the most effect to get it started. When you say they replaced the 'electrical' part, do you by chance know what that was/an invoice or reciept with a part number or something of the like? That would really help as I'd be doing it myself. Thanks for the imput it kind of confirms my recent suspicions!

95jr6708

ya i am actually at work right now, but i think there is part number i can get you tommorow.

in addition, jiggling the key would tell me, that it would be the upper part which is the mechanical mechanism (not the electrical) behind steering wheel cowling the part i replaced a year or two back that is shaped like a cylinder with the ignition wires hanging off. it costs about 50 bucks from an autoparts store and is pretty much a plug and play fix.
i'll get back to you on both parts once i find them.

scooby68

Easy install, but be careful cause your going to be close to air bags, also disconnect battery. www.coustesynissan.com for diagram explode and for part identification #'s , maybe www.rockauto.com also, I haven't dealt with them yet

For my 97 5 spd. SE it was Part#
http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-132324.html
...or look for part description #48750 under section # 998 Misc. and Keys

JUST MAKE SURE THIS IS FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR year and model, CALL THEM AND SPEAK WITH SALES GUY. IT WAS LIKE $30 + The SHIP

I just remembered how I'd park on inclines with no obstructions all the time so I could get a rolling start in second gear when I came back to the car!.....those were the daze!.......good luck with it!

Qbridg3

I have the same problem. Mine cranks a few times then it stops cranking and cranks again and then finally starts. Does it every time.
I'll have to check the FIC and change the coolant sensor and I'll also regrease the starter. If it is the idle control valve I am not changing that any time soon. It's $250.

95jr6708

The first link is for the part i think it is for your problem.
http://www.autozone.com/N,314431/ini...cleSelect4.htm

and someonelese 2 above me was so kind as to leave more links for you...

good luck!

keep me posted on your progress

Qbridg3

My problem was a starter problem. Looked for the brushes and I didn't find them. Had to buy the hole starter.

scooby68

Ok, I give up whats FIC, Fuel injector something?

lexoid

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-130621.html $35. At nissanpartsonline.net you get the same price with shipping included, but it could take a little bit longer to ship.

It stands for "Fast Idle Cam". It has a thermo element which opens the "throttle" a little bit to increase RPM when the engine is cold.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

ok .. update. thanks for the part numbers and such, Ill give the ignition switch a shot. I was driving yesterday and the car just died. No spit and sputter, i didnt even hear it die. I'll will start back up again but is still hard to start. It did seem to happen when i put it in neutral or when I pushed in the clutch(lowering rpm to idle ) then it died. Im in school now out of town so I need my car I hope it doesnt crap out on me completely. Ill be cleaning out the TB tomorrow and Ill have to order the Ignition switch. and ill be cleaning the IACV this weekend as I have no tools here. thanks again for the part numbers.